GoldCard Gal

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Hiking the Timber Trail, via Bog Inn Hut

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“Do we stay here and keep dry, or do we push on another 5 kms to Camp 10 and hopefully erect our tents in between the showers of rain?”  This was part of Yvonne and my conversation as we rested in a beautiful old wooden restored hut at Camp 11 on the Timber Trail. Little did we know what was about to hit us rain-wise!

I have previously cycled and hiked the Timber Trail, but this was Yvonne’s first.  I was keen to show her and let her experience this beautiful part of the central North Island.  Our plan was for three nights on the trail, one night in a hut, and two nights in our tents.

I found out later there are 31 bridges including spectacular suspension bridges. The trail has many single-track sections, mixed in with wider flowing tracks and gravel road sections – in other words, plenty of variety.

The red triangles are where we stayed

Start – Bog Inn Hut (20 kms)

On Wednesday, 25 January, 2023 we were dropped off at the top of the trail by Epic Shuttles.  We shared the van with three middle-aged men from Whangarei who were going to cycle the trail in one day.  They were obviously good mates by way they joked, laughed, and conversed.

The weather was overcast, and the temperature was mild.  We could see heavy dark clouds moving slowly towards the southeast behind Mt Pureora. Not always a good sign.

Those of you that have cycled the trail know how beautiful the bush is. It is a mix of impressive podocarp forests of rimu, totara, miro, matai, kahikatea, and secondary native undergrowth. And being surrounded and amongst these giants of the forest is very soothing and restoring to the soul.

The trail is easy to follow, the surface pretty even and solid underfoot – no thinking of where to place your feet – thank goodness for cycle trails. This enabled us to set a steady pace.

Yvonne had read on a website that extra water should to be carried, so we both carried an extra 2 litres each which of course adds more weight (1 litre = 1 kg)!!  It turned out there were plenty of access points to streams, but by that stage, we were too scared to empty out our water just in case the hut didn’t have a good supply.

The trail gently climbs to 940m above sea level. A variety of cyclists passed us on the trail, some stopping and chatting others racing past.  We did meet two mums and their sons (who were on muscle-powered bikes) completing the trail.  They’d pass us and then we’d pass them resting, as the boys were struggling with the uphill climb.  But on the downhill section, those two boys raced passed up – enjoying the rewards of their hard work and never to be seen again.

Bog Inn Hut

The turn-off to Bog Inn hut was a welcome sight. It’s a narrow unmaintained track that took us approximately 45 minutes.  Towards the end of the day seeing the hut is always a highlight and something you look forward to.  Both Yvonne and I were feeling tired and couldn’t wait to offload our packs.

Seeing the hut roof first amongst the forest was a relief. Always a highlight of our day and something we always look forward to.  We knew the hut was old (built in 1962), so we didn’t have high expectations about its condition. The good news though, it had four bunks, running water, a long-drop toilet (not that smelly), a long wooden table that was heavily carved with people’s names and initials along with two long wooden seats. Plus, outside under cover two good-sized stainless-steel benches – what more could a hiker ask for?  There was a gaping hole in the floor where the pot belly was to go (a good place for possums, rats, and mice to enter the hut was the thought that crossed my mind). At present, the pot belly was resting on the floor beside one of the bunks.

Choosing our bunk and emptying our packs are the first things we do when we get to a hut.  After a much-needed and appreciated hot drink, it was time to test out how comfortable the bunks were.  It wasn’t long before both Yvonne and I were resting our bodies and fast asleep.  Those sleeps or ‘recovery naps’ as I like to call them are the best – you feel so good afterward.

Hut companion

The Timber Trail is part of the Te Araroa Trail (TA), so we weren’t surprised when a TA walker Michael from New Orleans arrived.  A lovely young man just finished university and giving himself three months to hike TA.  He often walks 40 + kms per day!!

A very pleasant evening was spent cooking and enjoying our dinner, chatting with Michael and hearing about his life and adventures and finally crawling into our sleeping bags for a much-needed sleep.

Bog Inn Hut – Piropiro Campsite (21 kms)

The next morning, we were soon back on the trail after drinking an enjoyable cup of coffee and eating a nutritious breakfast (of muesli topped with dehydrated kiwi fruit).  This is my go-to breakfast every day.  Then packing our packs.  The last job before leaving any hut is to sweep it out and ensure the bench surfaces are clean for the next lot of guests.  Michael had long gone – he was hiking 36 kms today.

It was about the 15-minute hike to join back up with the trail. I am pleased with did this little detour – well worth it.

Today the sun continued to shine and we hiked through the bush (much the same as yesterday) with the occasional forestry road to Piropiro campsite.

The simple activity of walking

Walking is such a simple activity, just one foot in front of the other – few distractions. I feel it gives my brain a complete rest from noise or electronic distractions. Sure, you hear the odd bird singing; your walking poles clicking each time they touch the ground, and chatting with companions, but it’s that silence that is so restorative.

Piropiro Campsite

Entering the Piropiro campsite was a great relief.  Fortunately for us, there was one shelter available for us to use.  With the sun still high in the sky and the temperature hot, our biggest decision was trying to decide where to erect our tents, as all the sheltered areas were already occupied by other campers/hunters. We did later find shelter amongst some trees, but by then we couldn’t be bothered moving.

There was access to water, long-drop toilets, and a table to sit at.

Piropiro campsite. Scott and Vicki’s campervan along with our tents

We were soon joined by Scott & Vicki (from Tauranga) in their campervan, along with a trailer that was carrying a 4-wheel quad bike, and firewood.  They also brought with them eight dogs (three indoor dogs and five hunting dogs).  They asked if we minded them setting up their camp next right to the shelter as they were here for the long weekend and expecting other family members and friends for a weekend of hunting and drinking.  We had a few ‘interesting’ conversations with them before crawling into our tent – hoping for a good night’s sleep!!!

At about 9 pm ish we were suddenly woken by a few rifle shots being fired somewhere in the nearby bush.  After being woken suddenly both Yvonne and I found it hard to get back to sleep.  Guess it’s all part of being at this busy campsite.

Piropiro Campsite – Camp 10 (24 kms)

We were back on the trail by 7.15 am (our earliest start yet) because we had a longer day (24 kms) and because I wanted to get across the 141 m suspension bridge before the cyclists started passing us.

As we left Piropiro campsite we could feel ‘rain in the air’, and it wasn’t long before we had to put on our wet weather gear and never took it off for the rest of the day.

Maramataha Suspension Bridge

(This bridge is the longest suspension bridge on any cycleway within NZ.  Click out this link to read about its construction.) 

The building of the suspension bridges is amazing – the skills that are required – not to mention the $s!   Even though I’m not happy walking them I sure appreciate them and the effort that has gone into selecting the right location and then constructing them.

We timed it perfectly; we had just crossed the bridge when two young female cyclists (both TA walkers cycling the trail instead of walking it) rode the bridge and then stopped for a short chat with us.

Maramataha Suspension Bridge

It rained most of the day, therefore our rest stops were limited, nothing worse than sitting in the rain getting cold.  Again, we were passed by many cyclists who were wet and covered in mud, no doubt happy knowing the end was not that far away for them.

Blackberries

On the side of the track, Yvonne noticed some ripe blackberries, about a dozen.  They were delicious, so sweet, and a bit tarty – what a treat. In a few weeks, they will be ripe for the picking.

Ragwort

Ragwort

When you see ragwort, please pull it out.  I grew up on a dairy farm in Ratapiko (Taranaki). One way we could earn a little extra pocket money was to grub scotch thistles and put something (can’t remember what) on ragwort.  I’ve just read that ragwort is poisonous to cattle and horses but not sheep and goats.  Anyway, I couldn’t help myself that every time I saw a plant – out it came. Even Yvonne got into weed control.  We were just trying to keep our landscape free of this poisonous/noxious plant.  There wasn’t a lot of ragwort but we all know how quickly it can spread.

Historic Camp 11

It was a welcome sight to see this partly restored hut (awaiting a fireplace).  We entered through the already open door and offloaded our packs – oh the relief. The billy was soon boiling and in no time all we were enjoying a hot cup of soup, with crackers, cheese, and salami. Life is pretty good eh?  Where else would we rather be?

Camp 11 – Timber Trail

Here we debated as to whether to push on to Camp 10 or stay here knowing we would be dry all night.  As the rain had become intermittent, we decided to push on another 5 kms to Camp 10 and hopefully erect our tents before the rain really set in.

Camp 10

Sometimes those final kilometers can seem to take ages. But because we had had a good rest the kms seem to fly by.  So, seeing the little orange roof shelter was still a welcome sight.

Camp 10 – The Timber Trail

We quickly erected our tents before the rain really started to fall.  Thankfully we were able to store our packs and gear in the little shelter – what a difference that made to our night at Camp 10.

Unexpected visitor

We got a huge surprise to see this lone hiker heading north.  Trent was his name, and he was hiking the Te Araroa northbound.  He stopped to boil his bully and tell us his life story!!  Now, whether it was because he’d been hiking on his own or it was part of his personality, he was one of those people who never picked up on other people’s vibes – if that makes sense.   Anyway, he must have stayed at least an hour talking about himself while Yvonne and I patiently listened.  His wife had given him 120 days to do the trail, and then he must return home to Australia or else!!  Yvonne replied, “I got my husband a dog to keep him company while I’m away.”  Trent had no response to Yvonne’s comment.

While he was away refilling his water bottle, I tried to lift his pack, but could hardly move it – it was heavy (20 kgs he told us later) – no wonder he had lost 12 kgs and no longer took his blood pressure tablets!!  Finally, Trent headed off and we could get back to our evening chores – cooking dinner and preparing for bed.

A book can be a good companion

It was another early night to bed. Having a good book to read takes you on a journey and helps pass the time away.  My book of choice this time was “People and Places of Clonakilty Ireland”, stories gathered by my sister-in-law Alison Wickham (abwickham@gmail.com).   This is her third book. Alison’s previous books are about how Irish women lived their lives, cooked, and looked after their families.  Their thoughts on the past, the times they miss and don’t are some of the topics discussed.  These stories were gathered from one-to-one interviews Alison conducted.

It rained consistently all night.  I kept dry but Yvonne had the odd issue with precipitation dripping on her and she ended up having to cover herself with her survival blanket.  Not conducive to a good night’s sleep.  At least we didn’t have to worry about rising river levels and river crossings the next day!

Camp 10 to Bennet Road car park (19 kms)

“Thank goodness we had the little shelter” was all we could say.  It’s not fun packing up a wet tent in the pouring rain but what are the options?  At least we didn’t have to sleep in our tents again and could enjoy our breakfast and hot drink in the dry.

As the rain poured down and we plodded through ankle-deep puddles I said, “What does this weather remind you of Yvonne?” Sure enough, we were both on the same wavelength – hiking down near Mavora Lakes during our TA adventure last year, but here the rain was warmish.  Aren’t good experiences and memories wonderful – at a whim you can recall them and relive them?

The history of this section of the track is remarkable.  Ellis and Burnand built a tramline here to log and carry the timber out to their mill at Ongarue. The construction of the rail track started in 1922 and included a spiral, a tunnel, two great trestle bridges, and many impressive cuttings.

In 1955 the tramway was closed because of flood damage, followed by the mill closure in 1966.  Click here to see a video on Building the Timber Trail – the Ellis and Burnand story.  Well worth a watch.

Having read a couple of chapters of Alison’s book the previous night I couldn’t help but wonder about the stories of the women who lived in this area during that time.  Where are their stories?  What was their life like?  What hardships did they face and what constituted “happy times”?  Plenty to ponder as we pushed on to (Bennett Road car park) at the end of the trail.  All the while the rain kept pouring down.  The Ongarue Rd river beside the final section of the trail was flooded and in a couple of sections very close to the trail.

The end is always a relief, good to be back safely.  No time for dawdling as we both just wanted to remove our wet gear and get into some dry clothes and have something to eat.  It’s always a shock to see your wrinkled feet and unstuck (blister prevention) plasters – what did we expect after hiking five + hrs in the pouring rain?

As we were getting changed the cyclists started to arrive all looking very wet and extremely dirty.  There were a couple of family groups who still seemed happy and a few bike packers doing the Kōpiko Aotearoa cycle trail.  After their rest and food stop, they were riding to Whangamomona 100 kms away!  I did mention to them it’s a great ride on a fine day!! They were looking forward to a bed and hot meal at the Whangamomona Hotel.

Little did we know what had/was happening in other parts of New Zealand!

Thank you, Yvonne, for your company and companionship.  For never complaining or throwing your toys out of the playpen when the going gets tough!  😊

Our next adventure is a round-the-mountain – Ruapehu, hopefully, this coming week.

I like this quote, does it make sense to you?  Till next time, take care out there GoldCard Gal  😊

“Why do you go away? So that you can come back. So that you can see the place you came from with new eyes and extra colours. And the people there see you differently, too. Coming back to where you started is not the same as never leaving.”
– Terry Pratchet

Alternative accommodation at mid-way of Timber Trail

Besides the Piropiro Campsite there are two other types of accommodation available at the mid-section of the trail:

  1. The Timber Trail Lodge, and
  2. Epic Cycles Adventures

Additional scenes

The old spiral on the Ellis & Burnand tramway line – The Timber Trail

Hiking the Timber Trail

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On a hike, the days pass with the wind, the sun, the stars; movement is powered by a belly full of food and water, not a noxious tankful of fossil fuels.

On a hike, you’re less a job title and more a human being. A periodic hike not only stretches the limbs, but also reminds us:  Wow, there’s a big old world out there.

– Ken Ilgunas

When Sari arrived at my home earlier than expected, having an adventure together was always going to be on the agenda.  But what type of adventure was the big question? Sari had just spent many days walking a couple of sections of the Te Araroa Trail up in Northland so she was feeling fit and strong.

Would it be a cycling or hiking adventure?  Finally, hiking the Timber Trail got us both excited but I also felt apprehension!!  We both had previously cycled the Timber Trail and had individually thought “we’d like to walk it one day!”

So, it was with trepidation I agreed to do this hike BUT why was I feeling this apprehension? So many questions in my mind. How was I going to carry a full pack for so many days, and what about my feet and knees – how will they cope?? What if this happened or what if that happened?

Timber Trail map thanks to Epic Cycle Adventures

Day 1 – 18 kms

My alarm buzzed loud and clear at 5.30 am. It was with excitement and anticipation I rolled over and turned the noise off.  No dozing this morning and wishing for more sleep – today Sari and I were off to have a five-day adventure hiking the well-known Timber Trail – 84 kms of it.  It was an early start because we had to be at the Bennet Road car park, Ongarue for an 8.30 shuttle to start the trail at Pureora, a 1 hr 30-minute drive away.

It was a beautiful drive (at that time of the day) down to Ongarue, travelling through the rural countryside; seeing the milked dairy cows happily grazing on lush green paddocks and seeing the sunrise in the East.  My mind was also busily mentally checking off my packed gear list.  Realizing it was a bit late if I’d left anything behind but at the same time feeling confident the essentials were packed.

We arrived at the bustling car park on Bennet Road, vehicles and bikes everywhere.  Fortunately for us, we only had to worry that our pack and poles were loaded into the correct vehicle. Our vehicle included a family of four cyclists, and two other female hikers plus us.

There was low cloud and mist hanging around the hills as we were driven to the start of the Timber Trail is via Ongarue – Waimiha Road and State Highway 30.  The countryside was hilly (from a cyclist’s perspective) with many twists and turns.  It’s mainly sheep and beef farming with a scattering of Radiata pine forest blocks.

On arrival at the trail start, it was a hive of activity.  Many cyclists – all ages, shapes, and sizes, and no doubt abilities either having something to eat, checking their bikes, or having a last-minute nervous wee.  The variety of mountain bikes (MTB) brands was as diverse as the riders – we did notice the number of electric MTBs!!

At approximately 10.30 am Sari and I loaded our packs on our backs, made sure our boots were laced securely, hands in pole holders and we were off.  It’s a gratifying feeling when something you have planned and is now actually happening.  To finally be doing this long-anticipated tramp was very exciting.  But in the back of my mind were those nagging questions – “Was it going to be as good as I’d hoped” and “would my body cope with the multi-day adventure?”

GoldCard Gal & Sari.  Loaded and ready to go!

Being surrounded by tall rainforest where 800-year-old rimu and kahikatea trees tower 50 – 60 meters above one felt very small and insignificant.   The only sounds were our feet walking on the forest floor, and occasional bird song.  This is one of my “happy places”, a feeling of “peacefulness and contentment” – enveloped my mental being.  And as to be expected we were often forced to the side of the trail to let cyclists past – some ringing their bells to warn us they were coming up the rear; others very quiet in their approach, obviously thinking we’d heard them and expecting us to move aside.    This expected inconvenience only happened first thing each morning or late afternoon.  Otherwise, we had a place to ourselves – heaven.

Every hour we’d stop to rest for five minutes, have a drink of water, consume some fuel,  and do any running repairs or adjustments; more plaster on the balls of my feet was an early running repair.  (I had recently purchased a new pair of tramping boots and didn’t want any blisters to hinder my journey.)

Strategically placed along the trail are these corrugated iron shelters (below). Chance to take our packs off (oh how light we felt), boil the billy for a well-deserved cup of soup and consume some well-earned crackers, cheese, and salami (we have found this type of food sustains our bodies well).  And of course, rest the feet.

Trail shelters – also home to swallows as we were to find out!

The trail winds its way around the base of Mt Pureroa, the majority of the time walking in the bush and steadily climbing.  We meet four DoC employees working on the track.  They had been “expecting two old women sometime!”  The other two female hikers had informed them of us.  We had a chuckle about being classed as “old” which we are, but it is sometimes hard to accept when other people tell you that!  But not to be put off by that label we had a good laugh, chat and they advised us of some possible camping sites ahead.

We had decided to start looking for possible campsites from about 4 pm onwards.  That would give us enough time to replenish our water supplies, set-up camp, have a welcome hot drink, cook dinner, and into bed before dark.  As to be expected possible campsites were not readily available, because on either side of the trail it was a steep rise upwards or a steep decline downwards, with the forest floor covered in broken logs, pungas, undergrowth, rocks etc.  Finally, a part of the track wide enough to take our tents and any possible cyclists could still ride past was found.  So I set my tent up on the side of the track and Sari found a spot off the track up within the forest itself.

GoldCard Gal’s campsite day 1 (no room for visitors!)

With our tents erected and beds rolled-out, the next important task is boiling the billy for a well-deserved cup-of-tea and shared reflections of the day.

At dusk, we were entertained by what sounded like a mini-orchestra of bird song – what a treat.  From not hearing many birds during the day to hearing it then was very special.  Darkness soon engulfed us and time for bed and sweet dreams.  It was a very cold night and getting out of the tent to go for a wee only happened out of absolute necessity!!

Day 2 – 20 kms

Native clematis

No need for morning electronic alarms in the bush – the bird song does that beautifully, gently waking us up and enabling us to mentally prepare for another day of adventures.  Over the years Sari and I have got our morning routines ‘down-to-pat’ so to speak.  It doesn’t take long to dismantle our tents, pack our bag, boil the billy, eat breakfast, and get on the trail.  Fortunately, we both value the importance of an early start – you never know what may happen during the day and it’s comforting to know mentally you have completed over half of your journey by lunchtime.

Today we were heading to Piropiro campsite– the mid-point of the trail – at 39 kms. Having km signs along the trail helps, you quickly get an idea of the distance you’ve travelled or got to travel.

The trail continued down-hill still surrounded by beautiful natural bush.  Sometimes we chatted, other times we enjoyed the silence and appreciated being where we were, doing what we wanted. Having uninterrupted thinking time improves our mental well-being and gives our minds the freedom to explore and dream.  Additionally having a good companion does enhance these adventures.

As we walked out of the native bush onto a gravel road – we could see the tree-covered hills (as opposed to native bush) – the contrast in colours and textures very noticeable.  We also noticed a number of patches of native clematis, which I have not seen for many years.

Piropiro campsite was a welcome sight.  We had decided to camp here because we were tired and didn’t want to go any further and risk missing out on a good place to pitch our tents.   It is very basic, no-cost, long-drop toilets, running water, scattered partial shelters, and plenty of open spaces to find a secluded spot.  We were in heaven so to speak.  It doesn’t take long before you appreciate the small things like running water, flat smooth ground to pitch your tent and long-drop toilets that are clean and don’t smell!!

We spent an enjoyable evening chatting with the other two hikers (Tanya & Vicki) – which I’d like to add were in a much worse state than Sari and I.  But as per normal after a cuppa and relax it isn’t long before we started to feel ‘normal’ again.

Piropiro Campsite – day 2
I well remembered this sign when I cycled the Timber Trail!

 

 

 

GoldCard Gal enjoying the smooth path and being surrounded by lush native ferns

Day 3 – 27 kms

This morning we woke-up fresh and ready for another day on the trail.  As we walked past the girls’ tent, I could smell coffee brewing, and sure enough, they both were still happily lying in their sleeping bags chatting and waiting for their coffee to brew on their little gas cooker.  We said our farewells and some comments were made about seeing each other somewhere on the trail.

We knew this morning we would be busy on the trail as many cyclists were staying in nearby accommodation:  The Timber Trail Lodge and Camp Epic.  It was important for me to be over the longest and highest suspension bridge on the trail, the Maramataha before the cyclists arrived.  And we made it – just!!  The bridge and views take your breath away.

141m long Maramataha bridge. This is one of eight suspension bridges. (GoldCard Gal prefers not to look down!)

We continued to walk through tawa and tānekaha bush following the old tramway in a generally downhill direction.  This tramway was built by Ellis and Burnand Tramway and in places cuts through sheer rock face shrouded in thick native bush.  We passed many old remnants of the area’s logging past. It was hard to imagine that once there was a thriving logging industry with the necessary accommodation for employees and families because very little remained of this previous industry.

Every corrugated iron shelter we came across had a swallows nest.  While we rested inside the shelter the swallows would fly to the entrance and see us there and fly away again.  They continuously did that and after a while, we got the feeling we should be leaving so they could attend to their eggs.  But before I left one hut I decided to investigate and see what was in the nest and the nest below had two eggs and the photo below shows how cleverly the nest is made.

Swallow nest and eggs. Looking up towards the nest.  Every corrugated iron shelter contained a nest. The nests were beautifully made which required patience and skill.

Day three was our longest and proudest – 27 kms not bad for us!!  Camp 11 as it is identified, had a long-drop toilet, a nearby stream for freshwater, and good camping spots so I thought, but Sari suggested “we will camp in a more sheltered location.” Trying to find a place without blackberry roots on level ground was neigh impossible but one learns to make the most of a less than perfect site!!. As usual, once camp was set up and we had our much-anticipated cuppa – we were feeling pretty pleased with ourselves and our world!  And why wouldn’t we be??

Camp 11 campsite.  Sari in red jacket

Day 4 – 19 kms

We woke to a light drizzle and very little bird song – where had the birds gone?  Today we would be walking out to the end of the trail – our adventure will be ending.  How did I feel about that?

But before the end, there was much history to observe and experience.  The major attraction was the Ongarue Spiral.  How it was built is explained in the interpretational panel below.  It was truly unique, a major engineering spectacle, and included an eerie old dark tunnel. Apparently, it is the only bikeable railway spiral in the world – howz that?

Ongarue Spiral

The last 6 kms of hiking was beside farmland and we were constantly passed by mountain bikers who were completing their own adventure.  Many displayed signs of exhaustion, tiredness, and weariness.    It was a welcome sight to see Epic Cycle Adventures headquarters through the trees and across the Ongarue stream.    We had done it, and a day faster than we had planned and we both felt very proud of ourselves.

Thank you Sari for your company, friendship, and willingness for an adventure.  We do make a great team!

Post trail reflections:

  • I look forward to hiking it again.  If you are keen, please contact me.  🙂
  • My pack contents was right.
  • My body handled the 3.5 days hike much better than I thought.
  • No blisters and no sore shoulders.  Highly recommend Aarn backpack system.

Further information:

  • The DOC Timber Trail brochure
  • Shuttle service:  We used Epic Cycle Adventures and highly recommend them.
  • Drinking water:  Water can be taken from streams along the trail. You may wish to boil, filter or treat it before drinking but we didn’t with no side effects.

Trail signage:

  • Signs:  Green and yellow DOC signs indicate access points, distances between places, and approximate walking times.
  • Trail markers:  The trail is marked with orange directional markers and blue-and-white distance markers, indicating distances from Pureora. When travelling north from
    Ongarue, they count down the kilometres left to travel to Pureora. If you do not see these markers, you are not on the trail!

Accommodation on the trail:

If you have cycled or hiked this trail, I would love to hear your thoughts and experiences.  Till next time – GoldCard Gal 🙂

 

Part 4 – Southland

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Yesterday afternoon Yvonne and I arrived here at Te Anau Top10 Holiday Park.  Time for some rest, resupply and give our feet a chance to heal.  We are appreciating lying between clean, crisp white sheets, flicking the switch to make a cup of tea and luxuriating in the hot steamy shower.

After dropping off our packs in our room, we pampered ourselves to a “Sunday Roast Special” at the local hotel. Yvonne had her long dreamed after steak with roast vegetables and I had the roast lamb with vegetables – delicious and nourishing.  Finishing it off with a sticky date pudding and ice cream.

We are very happy with our decision to go NOBO.  Not necessarily any easier, but no need to carry so many days’ worth of food and water.  We have faced challenges that have tested us mentally and physically and we are successfully over-coming them in our own way.  We acknowledge this is our journey, and we can do whatever we choose.  We are slower than other walkers, but we get there and enjoy the views and scenery along the way.

We’ve completed 215 kilometres in the last 12 days – and we are still talking and laughing with each other!! Our bodies have served us well, just some minor blisters on our feet.  Walking for three days in wet socks and shoes doesn’t help!

My daily journal is below Yvonne’s reflections.  May I suggest if you are going to read it, make yourself a cup of tea or pour a glass of wine and come along on our adventure!

Yvonne’s reflections

Firstly I would like to thank Heather for having the desire to have at least one good adventure a year, so when she raised the idea to walk the Te Araroa trail in the South Island, I thought about it for some time and decided that I could do that thus agreeing  to go along for the ride, or should I say walk. Little did I know what I was getting into.  Well perhaps I did to a certain extent as I researched the trail on the net and also in books in the comfort of my own home however, actually doing it is entirely different as we have found out.

I would also like to thank Heather who has consistently recorded this journey day after day, even at the end of a long hard day, so all our family and friends can join us in this extended hike.

So what can I add.  Between us we seem to have different skills that compliment each other which has allowed us to make good decisions adding to the enjoyment of the hike.  We seem to be able to encourage each other when the going gets tough and give each other space when its needed. Best of all Heather likes to cook so I am really starting to appreciate food, it sure beats dried food hence I get to do the cleaning up. Not a bad compromise. So keep reading and share our experiences as we develop a real appreciation of the simple things in life. eg inside flush toilets, toilet paper, clean clothes, dry shoes, washing daily, availability of drinking water, etc. and the interesting people we meet.

At 74 it is great to feel that this hike is achievable we maybe slower than the youngest but still it is achievable.

Back on the trail again

Had a couple of firsts today.  First time I’ve flown into Invercargill airport and what a modern up-to-date airport it is.  We enjoyed some delicious airport food (another first) before we walked into Invercargill CBD.

We also discovered (as no doubt many of you already know or experienced) power banks are not permitted in checked-in luggage.  Unbeknown to us until we opened our packs that our power banks were confiscated at Christchurch airport.  This necessitated us buying a new power bank each – bother!!!

Northbound – Bluff to Invercargill – 35 kms

Day 1 – 19 January 2022

We were up and 5am this morning to have a quick breakfast before a shuttle picked us up at 6.15 am to deliver us to Stirling Point, Bluff (the start of our northbound journey).  It was a very dull overcast morning, with thick dark grey clouds hovering just above Foveaux Strait – little sight of Stewart Island.

Yvonne and GoldCard Gal at start or end of Te Araroa Trail – Bluff

We had the standard photographs and set off around the coastal walk to Ocean Beach. This track is beautiful, very protected from the wind.  To our left, down below the shoreline was very rocky with masses of bull kelp, (Durvillaea antarctica or D. poha) swaying back and forth as the waves rolled in and the water flowed quickly out again.

Bull Kelp, Bluff

Bluff seemed a very sleepy town at that time of the morning.  We saw Tiwai smelter just across the harbour.  It is interesting to see places you hear about in the news etc.

Away from the sheltered walkway, we were battered by a south-westerly wind and driving rain – jolly cold and NO CAFES to be seen anywhere!!

Recently a cycleway/walking path beside the road has been created and sealed from Invercargill CBD to Bluff.  As we continued our walk along Ocean Beach Road the rain eventually stopped.  But not so the trucks going to and from Bluff!  To keep myself amused (as we walked along this rather boring stretch of walkway) I decided to count the number of trucks that passed us in one 10 minute slot.  There were 15 trucks in 10 minutes and that number was consistent all day – we were on that stretch of road for 4 hrs.

The eventually the cyclepath/walkway turned off and more or less followed the estuary back to the city.  It was a relief to get away from the noise of the traffic.  A great cycle way in the right winds!  You cyclists riding the Tour Aotearoa will ride this path when you complete your tour in February.

We were very pleased to finally reach CBD again – a long day.  My feet were feeling it, but my legs felt good.  As I reflect on my day, I can now feel my thighs.

First thing we did on our return was shower, wash our hair and down to the café for that much needed caffeine and sugar fix.  I had a chocolate brownie with yoghurt and a large flat white – tasted delicious.  Yvonne had a large flat white and a caramel slice which she tells me was sickly.

Beautiful Sri Lankan/Russian family also walking the trail

We had a nourishing evening meal of freshly cooked broccoli (I’ve missed my vegetables), fish and eggs.  While in the kitchen tonight we got chatting to this couple who have three children and they’re hiking the trail also.  The mum is Russian her name is Maria, Dad is Sri Lankan, didn’t catch his name and the kids are a mixture of colour – beautiful.  The baby is about four months old.  How they manage the kids and carry all their gear is quite something.  Makes our gear issues non-existent.    Maria said the kids are happy walking maximum 25 kms – amazing as the two older children must be 10 and perhaps 8 years old.

I’m tired and ready for bed.

Invercargill – Oreti Road Holiday Park, 8 kms

Day 2 – 20 January, 2022

We had a relaxing start to this morning as today we only had a short walk to Oreti Road Holiday Park.  The wind was still blowing strongly, and it was quite chilly with scrolly showers.

After buying new gas cylinders and power banks we headed off. Invercargill’s CBD is quiet and not a lot of traffic.

Today’s walk was flat walking through Otatara and on towards Oreti Beach.

Oreti Road Holiday Park

As we walked down the concrete driveway to the office we were surrounded by an exceptional display on those tall lilies with a strong perfume in a variety of colours.

We decided on having a cabin tonight as the weather has turned cold.  The wind still blowing strongly, and we didn’t want to carry wet tents tomorrow.  Our cabin is cosy, showers recently relined and very clean along with a well-equipped and clean kitchen.  Yvonne reckons she’d come back here again.

We both have had a good “power-nap” this afternoon and hoping for an early start tomorrow – 26 kms along Oreti Beach.  Burt Munroe used to race his motor bikes along this beach.  It would be something special if we saw anything exciting tomorrow.

Oreti Road Holiday Park – Riverton 26 kms

Day 3 – 22 January, 2022

I always remember this beach as it was where Burt Munroe used to race his motor bikes.

This morning we woke to the wind still blowing strongly and air feeling fresh – a nice south-west wind!  Today our goal was Riverton, 26 km walk along Oreti Beach.  It was important we crossed the only river while the tide was low – 11.40 am.

We did meet a couple of people digging for toheroa, they were very secretive about their catch and contents in their buckets.  Not sure if what they were catching was legal or not!

Family walking along Oreti Beach

Before we knew it, we came across the river which was narrow and with a fast-flowing current, quite deceiving as I was to find out.  Here we meet our little Sri Lankan/Russian family again.  They had been camping in the sand dunes because they’d tried to cross the river last night at high tide and were unable to.

The Dad carried the two children over, the mother had their baby tucked away in the front pack and he was crying.  So, it was shoes off and we thought we’d help by carrying the kids packs over.  All went well until I put my right foot into a deep hole and over I went, loosing my shoes (which I was holding in my left hand) along with my walking poles and getting one of the kids packs wet.  Luckily, Yvonne was close by and grabbed my shoes and child’s pack.  We eventually crossed the stream, and I learnt a couple of valuable lessons about river crossings.

By this time the rain had arrived, the wind still blowing a gale.  I was wet and Yvonne and I were both getting very cold.  As quick as we could we put on our shoes, raincoat and got walking briskly to warm up. By this time the little family had disappeared into the distance.  We only passed them sometime later when they were having a lunch stop.  They were huddled together under an umbrella to protect them from the wind and rain – we call this fun???

This weather continued for a few hours.  All we could do was put one foot in front of other and keep moving – movement meant warmth.  As I said to Yvonne “this makes for a memorable experience, eh? We won’t forget this beach for a while.”  I won’t write what her response was.  We could be thankful we weren’t walking in the heat is all I could say.

Seven hours later feeling pretty tired we arrived at Riverton to find it extremely difficult to get any type of accommodation.  The Riverton Information Centre were very helpful, and we ended up in a beautiful place called La Riviera Boutique Guesthouse.  Little bit more than we would normally pay but – oh well we’re supporting local businesses!

We soon pampered ourselves with a hot shower, washed our hair with shampoo and conditioner (a first in over two weeks, (normally use cake of soap, not quite the same), and dried ourselves with fluffy white towels!!  There is nothing better than how you feel after a hot shower and being clean again.  We even got our clothes washed and dried – we both were in heaven, so to speak.

I’ve come to realise it’s the little things (like washing your hair with shampoo) that make you value the simple everyday activities we do without much thought.  So next time you wash your hair, give us a little thought!  😊

We visited the local supermarket and brought a few ingredients for dinner; the fresh corn was delicious and of course another meal of broccoli.

It’s now time for bed.

Riverton – Otautau 26 kms

Day 4 – 23 January 2022

Today we are road walking to Otautau a small rural town surrounded by dairy and sheep farming, not part of the TA trail.  The section we are bypassing is Longwood Forest and by all accounts – muddy with many knee-deep bog sections.  Yvonne and I both thought we did not need that – hence this road walking section.

For some reason we were late leaving, partly because our accommodation was so special, we wanted to make the most of it. Could have easily stayed a few extra nights – not sure my bank account would have agreed though.  It turned out our host Rose was an interior designer in Perth and moved to Riverton and redecorated this lovely old two-story building, with a French styled back yard.  It was beautiful.  Apparently Riverton is becoming very popular and property prices are soaring.

The cold south-west wind was still with us today.  As we walked on the left-hand verge of the road, we enjoyed the countryside and rural landscape.  This undemanding walking gives one’s brain the space and freedom to do whatever it chooses, always surprising me with what thoughts and experiences it replays.  Yvonne and I don’t talk a lot when walking, we both are in our little worlds placing one-foot-in-front-of-the-other.  Yvonne sometimes listens to audio-books on undemanding sections of the trail.  So far, once only.

As we sat down to enjoy our home-made lunch which included a bun with salmon and cheese (it was delicious) a SUV drove out of the driveway next to where we were sitting.  I haven’t seen Yvonne move so quickly.  Before, I knew it she was asking the driver if she was going to Otautau.  Sure enough she was and asked if we wanted a lift.  Yvonne was in that vehicle smooching up to the dog Jake even before I had a chance to put my shoes back on.  Holly was the driver’s name; she was working as a shepherd on the farm we had just passed.  She was a delightful young woman. I had a small issue to deal with – dog hair was everywhere but, in this instance, happily ignored it. She saved us a couple of hours walking and which was very much appreciated.

We spent a couple of relaxing hours in the Otautau pub, reading the newspaper, completing a code-cracker, rehydrating (coffee and beer) and generally chilling out.  We couldn’t get into our backpackers until late afternoon.

Our accommodation for the night was “The Old Railway Hotel & Backpackers”.  By the look and feel of it, it lacked TLC, never mind we had clean towels, linen, and soap.  We did enjoy the hot shower.  Visited the local supermarket, and had a quick bit to eat at the pub.  Not one of our best food choices, but it filled a gap.

I’m feeling tired tonight, so will call it a day and off to bed.  Tomorrow we road walk to Merrivale and will  re-join the TA trail again and hopefully catch up with Robert and Allan – the two guys we meet at Hacket Hut.  I’m hoping we can walk together – more fun that way.  Till tomorrow night.

Otautau – Merriview Hut 16 kms

Day 5 – 24 January 2022

Today we were road walking to Merriview hut.  The morning was clear, cool, and no wind when we started. Little traffic about, so quite a pleasant walk. The landscape was flat and gentle rolling hills, with grazing sheep and dairy cows.  It’s a beautiful area.

Merriview Hut, between Longwood and Twinlaw Forests

A local farmer has built this hut solely for TA walkers.  It is made from recycled materials and has five bunks, plus fresh running water at the bench and of course a long-drop toilet.  It costs $10 a night to sleep in the hut or $8 for a tent sight. Plus, 50c a free-range egg which the farmer dropped off later in the afternoon.

Yvonne and I spent the afternoon chilling out, reading and having our regular power nap.

Three young people have arrived, Jeff (Tauranga) whom we met in Riverton the other day, Naomi (Portland USA), and Alessandra (Italian name) but kiwi.  They’ve all had a long day on the trail and glad to see this delightful hut.  This is what I love, meeting these people, hearing about their stories, experiences and tales.

It’s 6.30 and still our friends Robert and Allan haven’t arrived yet.  Obviously been a tough day for them.  Robert and Dean (English guy haven’t met him before) turned up about 7 pm.  And they, like everyone else, the first thing they do is remove their boots.  It seems no matter how long you have been on the trail everyone gets sore feet and the odd blister.  Both Yvonne and I got small blisters today – a first for us both and guess it was the road walking.  I guess the sore feet at the end of a long day is something we’ll learn to live with.

Allan is still on the track where he’ll be tenting, he was just too slow to make it to the hut tonight. A recap, we meet Robert and Allan at Hacket Hut in the Richmond Ranges and we both made similar decisions.  They are also goldcard holders.

I love seeing what other people cook and eat – tonight it was: couscous, pasta, and freeze dry meals.

We had a delightful evening sharing tales. Early to bed tonight.

Merrivale Rd – Birchwood Station, Ohai 30 kms

Day 6 – 24 February 2022

A day of re-assurance and facing each challenge as we meet them.  Another words, don’t worry about issues you haven’t yet come across.

“There is no source of water for entire day” and “….. extremely steep hill. This would be almost impossible to descend safely when wet, especially without walking poles.”  These were some of the words about today’s route.

Big day today – a long day with a couple of steep climbs and in the background of my mind the words “extremely steep hill” constantly replaying.

Today was our real first day of following trail notes and markers through bush by ourselves.  Each section of the trail has detailed notes, but it isn’t until you start on the trail that they make any sense. On reflection we did jolly good today and felt proud of our efforts. Yvonne was happy leading the way through the dense bush and very good at spotting little orange markers – they are a life saver.

Standard orange pole and bush markers – can’t live without them.

Exiting the Twinlaw Forest we were blown away by the panoramic view before us. We had a short rest to absorb this view – it was truly magnificent. Rugged mountains in the distance and farmland down below.  My photo doesn’t do it justice, but this view and feeling of insignificance I felt is something I’ll always remember.

Goldcard Gal overlooking Birchwood Station and Takitimu Mountain Ranges

Extremely steep hill

This part of the walk I had been dreading all day.  This thinking was re-enforced by a guy we’d meet earlier on the trail going south, who said “be careful of that hill it is very very step, virtually virtual.”  As usual my imagination went into overload!!

Now we are on the edge of the extremely steep hill.  My logical brain spoke, “what is there to worry about?  Firstly, you’re on farmland and secondly, you can saw an eight-wire fence nailed to large posts” – so that immediately put my mind at ease.  My reason being, that fencers had to construct that fence – therefore the hill can’t be that steep?

It was very steep but not a dangerous decent as it was dry. So, my initial fears had been unfounded – what a waste of mental energy that had been!  “Little message for you here Heather” is what my brain said to me.  It would have been a tough hill to climb though.

Jeff (whom we had met yesterday and in Riverton) caught up to us on the way down the steep hill.  He walked and chatted with us for a while and then raced on ahead as he had a lift to the local Tikatimu Pub.

Birchwood Station hut

It was a long walk down the hill and across farmland following fence lines and road walking to Birchwood hut.  Both Yvonne and I were very glad to reach this much talked about hut.  It had been one long day.  We were tired but still managed to keep it together, so to speak.

The hot shower was a godsend along with the usual cup of tea.  So nice to just flick the electric jug switch and you have hot water.  It was rest, dinner and into bed. Tomorrow zero day here at Birchwood.

Yvonne & GoldCard Gal at Birchwood Hut.  Notice the state of the outdoor furniture.

Zero day at Birchwood Station Hut

Day 7 – 25 January 2022

The term “zero day” means no mileage, another way of saying “rest day”.

It was a treat to wake up and know we were staying put for the day. Chance for the body to recover as tomorrow it’s an even longer day, (10+ hrs) over Mt Linton Station which must be walked in one day.

Our friends Robert and Allan are coming over today from Merrivale Road – wonder what time they’ll arrive?

Takitimu Tavern

Yvonne and I are going to the Tikatimu tavern this evening for dinner and hoping to meet the owners who are also investing in small town NZ.  They offer an excellent service; they will pick you up and deliver you back to this hut free of charge as long as you buy a meal at their pub.  Sarah (woman running this hut) told us this afternoon that 12 people are arriving later this afternoon, and several of them are booked in to go to the tavern.  Should be an interesting evening!

Housework

I gave the hut a good sweep out this afternoon, even shook the large carpet floor mat outside!!  Realised this is the first real house-work I’ve done in 3 weeks other than sweep hut floors before I leave.  The place does look much tidier.

That is it until tomorrow night – wherever that will be!!

Birchwood Station to Telford Burn 30 kms

Day 8 – 26 January 2022

The hut was packed last night.  Six young people going SOBO turned up early evening. They had pre-booked the shuttle to Tikatimu Tavern for a meal.  They all started out individually and gradually found walking partners along the way.  A delightful group and so positive and happy – four girls and two guys.

The first alarm went off at 5 am, one of the young girl’s was heading off early.  Yvonne and I had a big day ahead of us and we finally left the hut at 7.15 am, walking across Mt Linton Station to Telford Burn.  As it is a working farm the trail follows fence lines which we are required to follow.  The trail takes you on a scenic route, not the most direct route.  You get a real tiki tour of the station.

We experienced rain, fog and sunshine.  The fog and rain making it difficult to identify and follow the orange markers, hence we had a couple of detours much to our annoyance.

Yvonne lost the end tip off one of her walking poles.  No idea when or where that happened but made walking a little uneven for her to say the least.

Finally, at 8 pm we arrived at our camp site, such a welcome relief and by this time the rain had started.  One other person was already on site and snuggled up in his tent – only to be heard.

Fortunately, between showers of cold rain we were able to erect our tents and have dinner. There was no washing of bodies or writing up my journal tonight, we both were very tired but pleased with how our bodies and feet handled the day.  Today was the first day my feet didn’t hurt at the end of the day, so I’m feeling pretty pleased about that – thank you Andrew Jones podiatrist.

It rained off and on during the night and all I could think off was my bladder!  Nothing worse than having to go to the toilet while sleeping in a tent and it’s raining!!

Camp site at Telford Burn, on boundary to Mt Linton Station

Telford Burn – Lower Wairaki Hut 9 kms

Day 9 – 27 January 2022

Our trail notes warned us not to attempt today’s trail if it was foggy or in stormy weather.  I didn’t want to know it was morning, didn’t have a good sleep, bit worried about today’s walk.  We had a late start as it was only 9 kms. I’m learning that short distances don’t necessarily mean easy days.

Today’s walk was a walk of contrast. Luckily, we could see the weather clearing so decided to make a go for it.  First up a very long steep climb through scrub, low lying bush and bracken.  It was poorly marked for us NOBO’s hence we had a couple of unplanned detours bush bashing.  Thankful for Topo maps app. Then we travelled along the tops of a range which was rocky with many different varieties of alpine plants, quite pretty and our final descent was through beautiful bush.

Before the big climb to the 1023 m summit, we had rock climbing and scoria scrambling to overcome.  When we first saw where we had to go, a few choice words were expressed by us both!!  It was time to put our ‘big girl pants on’, take a few deep breaths and take one step at a time.

Summit at top, doesn’t look nearly as steep as what it actually is. Beautiful day though.

Standing on the summit with 360o views quite spectacular.  Considering this morning we weren’t even sure we’d get any walking in.  The Takitimu Range of mountains were looking breath-taking.

This evening we are staying in a little four bunk hut with an open fireplace, and little bench area.  We’ve been able to have a sponge wash, dry our tents and some of our clothing.  We, both are very proud of ourselves today, considering what we did yesterday and what we climbed today.

It’s 8.45 pm and it’s bedtime.  We are slowly getting our trail legs and we’re definitely getting physically and mentally stronger, so pleased with our decision to go NOBO.  Nite, nite.

Lower Wairaki hut, pretty typical back country hut
Inside Lower Wairaki Hut, sleeps four and also has an open fire place unseen on left

Lower Wairaki Hut – Aparima Hut 16 kms

Day 10 – 28 January, 2022

Last night was our coldest night so far. We left the hut this morning wearing gloves and over trousers, but the sun was shining through the birch trees.  Today’s walk was mainly through forest, ending with tussock grass just before the Aparima hut.

Bush floor covered in this tiny green fern. On the right a type of mistletoe vine which apparently the opossums love.

We’re currently sharing this hut with two delightful young women.  Alice (French) from Arrowtown, she has walked here for the night away, and Anik (Netherlands) who is walking SOBO – she is one ‘fit, strong young woman’.   We had a lovely evening conversing.

We have the motto “prevention is better than cure.”  Meaning if we feel a blister or something rubbing, we stop and sort it out before it becomes an issue.  Today, was the first time I felt my left knee.  Thank goodness Yvonne was able to strap my left knee up and give it the support it needed without any further problems.

Our feet seem to be causing us a few issues at the moment.  Guess that could be partly due to the fact that our feet are wet most of the day, due to river crossings, and walking or trying to avoid muddy swamp like sections.  So, each morning before we put on our wet socks, we plaster our toes up and Vaseline our feet.  And each evening when we arrive in camp, we take the plasters off and wash our feet.

Aparima hut is lovely, sleeps eight people, usual set-up with small bench, long stainless-steel covered table with a couple of wooden seats.  Also included a pot belly fireplace.

Aparima Hut

It’s hard to type when people are having such interesting conversations, so I’ll say good night.

Aparima Hut – Lower Princhester Hut – 16 kms

Day 11 – 29 January, 2022

The night sky was magical last night when I got up to go to the toilet.  The sky was literally full of stars that looked like a series of tiny white lights.  This view was quite special to me.

Another a big day ahead of us, DOC predicted 9 hrs that means it will take us 11 hrs and sure enough it did.  The walk itself was through tussock grass of various heights, some as tall as us, birch forest and a saddle to climb over.

Yvonne is great at leading and following trails.  Walking through the tussock we needed to be vigilant in spotting the orange markers.  Sometimes we would have to stand on higher ground to see the next orange marker in the distant.  We’ve come to realise four eyes are better than two!

Our confidence was challenged today. While we were diligently following the orange markers our GPS said we were away off the track.  Had we taken the wrong turn somewhere way down the saddle?  Had we missed another track?  We decided to continue following the orange markers and see where it led us.  Thankfully we soon meet a delightful woman called Rachel, and her dog (she was camping up of some ridge for the night) coming up the saddle.  She reassured us we were on track and always trust the orange markers.  The relief both Yvonne and I left was immense.

The arrival at Lower Princhester Hut was most welcome, it had been a long day.  The feet and legs still feeling OK!

Yvonne got some great news tonight, Robert (one of our trail friend’s) texted her to say he’d found the end of her walking pole and will return it in Te Anau.  How fortunate is that?  Quite amazing when you think of the distance and terrain we travelled that day.

Women walking alone

We’ve met many single women (of various ages) doing the Te Araroa Trail. We admire their courage, determination and self-belief.  They all have different stories about why and how they’re tackling the various challenges they face daily.  They’re all so positive about their experiences and journey. It is a privilege to meet these women.

Today we met two women from Morrinsville, Jacqui and Debbie.  They started together back in October and now have decided to walk alone for the rest of the trail.  Claire, Debbie knows you, you gave her a buff – small world, eh?

Lower Princhester Hut – Princhester Road end  6kms

Day 12 – 30 January, 2022

We woke this morning to pitter patter of raindrops on the roof.  No worries for us today as we’re walking out to the end of Princhester Road through the Davaar Station.  Catching a shuttle bus to Te Anau for a couple of days rest and give our feet a chance to heal.  Hopefully catch up with our other trail friends also going NOBO.

Till next time

That is it from Yvonne and I.  We do think and talk about all of you often.  Take care out there – till next time GoldCard Gal  🙂

Additional scenes

Very common sign on farm gates on Mt Linton Station
Looking towards Takitimu Ranges
Yvonne on top of 1023m summit – 360 degree views.
GoldCard Gal climbing up steep incline.  Notice the alpine plants.

Life in the van (part 2)

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Isn’t this a wonderful way to live your life – always trying something new? Driving and living in the campervan was one of those “somethings”.

As I left the comfort of Sari and Norm’s home and Sari’s companionship I wondered what lay ahead as I drove back to Hamilton via Wairarapa, Hawkes Bay, through to Taupo and home.  It was an ideal time to reflect on my experiences and think about the coming days.

As I had an early morning ferry crossing I decided it was best to stay the night before at the Picton Campervan Park which was two minutes drive away from the ferry check-in and drive-on.   A good decision.

The InterIslander Ferry

The day before my sailing I was bragging to Sari about “I’ve never having had a rough crossing.” Have you ever noticed that when you brag you can guarantee things don’t go to plan?  The crossing was “rough” in my eyes!!  Once the InterIslander left the safety of the Sounds, white caps were everywhere and the swells of the sea were very noticeable!  It wasn’t long before I grabbed one of those ‘little white bags’ and staggered/wobbled to an Exit door for fresh air.   A cold south-easterly wind blew, I was often misted with sea spray but at least I felt OK outside.  It was a slow crossing, the thought of food or even a coffee never entered my head.

As I sat in my van waiting to drive off the ferry in Wellington, I couldn’t help but notice and be amazed at the number of vehicles and the size of the truck and trailer units that can be accommodated.  And the process of loading and unloading vehicles all done so efficiently.

It was a relief to be finally driving towards South Wairarapa via the Rimutaka Ranges.

South Wairarapa

Visiting South Wairarapa was a first for me.  The afternoon was spent driving to Palliser Bay and observing the landscape and little villages along the way. The first small village I came across was the Land Girl Cafe, Pirinoa.  It is an old blacksmith’s workshop built in the 1880s and handed down with the farm through five generations.   The cafe also included a gift store with many little treasures for sale. Located across the road from the cafe are the primary school, petrol station, and small grocery store, an ideal place for a break.

The Putangirua Pinnacles

The Putangirua Pinnacles, South Wairarapa

After driving and sitting for a couple of hours I needed some fresh air and a walk, the Putangirua Pinnacles is a must-see and do. The rock formations are unusual and very impressive.  I’ve never seen anything like them before.  The Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King was filmed here.  It was an easy 2.5 hr return walk winding along a river bed or you can take a bush track to a viewing platform that looks down onto the pinnacles.  It’s an enjoyable walk and taking something to drink is important.  There is a freedom camping site near the beginning of the walk that also includes toilets.

Ngawi Fishing Village

I have always wanted to see where “there are more tractors per head of population than anywhere else in the world”, and Ngawi is the place.  It is a small fishing village located on the coast of Palliser Bay.  The old bulldozers and tractors haul the fishing boats in and out of the wild waves of Cook Strait.  It was really hard to get a good photograph of all the tractors and bulldozers with my phone so hopefully, you get the idea.

Ngawi fishing village – one of the many many bulldozers and tractors!  For another view check below – More scenes

Cape Palliser

As Cape Palliser is the most southern point of the North Island, I wasn’t sure what to expect.  The road to the Cape followed the coastline – quite dramatic with waves crashing on the seabed next to the road as there was a very strong and cool SE wind blowing. Didn’t walk up to the lighthouse – my excuse – it was getting late and still hadn’t found anywhere to stay! In another word, I was feeling lazy!! I’ve found on this particular trip that when travelling on my own I’m less inclined to “push myself or apply that little extra effort” – wonder what that says about me?

The Palliser Lighthouse – the most southern tip of North Island

As I was driving out towards Palliser Bay I had noticed Gateway Motel Holiday Park.   On my way back I stopped off here for a quiet evening in my campervan.  Nothing dramatic to report, as I was the only guest staying that night.  Had a very comfortable and cozy night in my van.  After having cooked my dinner there wasn’t a lot to do, thank goodness for a good book or two.  Since I had left Blenheim I had been reading the book titled “The Resilience Project” by Hugh van Cuylenburg and found it very thought-provoking, included valuable take-away ideas, and it was hard to put down.  In the dining room/kitchen at Gateway Motel Holiday Park, they had a great selection of books available.  Found the book titled “Jewell in the North” by Tricia Stringer another Australian book; this fiction book kept me happily entertained for many an hour in the evenings.

Destination Waipukurau

I can’t remember the last time I drove along Highway 2, so I was keen to explore/travel this highway, especially seeing places like Martinborough and Greytown. Martinborough was busy preparing for their annual fair, you could see many older people marking-out stall holder boundaries.  The town was looking impressive; all the buildings looking clean and fresh, and gardens colourful. What really struck me was the older style homes that have been restored or kept in “spick-and-span” order so to speak.  The homes and gardens were truly beautiful and appealing.

Greytown

What a stunning little country town Greytown is.  The shop facades reminiscent of times gone by and beautifully painted and maintained just like Martinborough.  There were two shops I wanted to see and experience and both shops exceeded my expectations.   If you are ever passing through Greytown do make a point of visiting them.  If you have visited either of these shops, I would love to hear about your experience and if you were able to exit them without having made any purchases.

  • Mrs Blackwell’s Bookshop (opened 2020), where it is easy to spend a couple of hours browsing.  Along with the wide variety of books, it also contains a variety of gift ideas.  An interesting shop, and well laid out.
Mrs Blackwell’s Village Bookshop, Greytown
  •  Blackwell & Sons a shop that sells hand-built bicycles and accessories, ‘top of the range” so to speak.  This shop is a must-see if you are looking for a bike that is stylish, comfortable, and reliable or just want to look at the variety of everyday bicycles available.  I could see myself riding one of their bikes when I get really old.
Princess Sovereign Woman’s bicycle from Blackwell and Sons shop, Greytown.  Beautiful isn’t it?

In Greytown, it took a lot of willpower to walk past many inviting cafes, you may wonder why?  I had read about the Clareville Bakery (Artisan Bakers just north of Carterton) and that was going to be my coffee stop for the day.  The size of the purpose-built car park was an indication of how popular this bakery was.  Reading about all the different awards they had won since they started their business in 2013 was an indication of how good their food is.  It was interesting to sit and watch the variety of people who came and enjoyed the tasty food, from tradies to young mums, police officers, families, older people and groups of people having meetings, plus I.  It was a busy and hospitable setting to savour my coffee and eat a plain croissant.

For my lunch break and “power nap” I came across a lovely roadside picnic area.  This was one of the many things I enjoyed about travelling in the campervan, I could stop anywhere and quickly make a fresh salad sandwich, boil the jug, and chill out.

There was a surprise in-stall for me at this stop.  A beautiful sculptured memorial to the Polish children’s camp that was erected here after World War II.  This instantly brought back happy memories of Mrs Dravitizki who used to be a neighbour of ours when growing up in Ratapiko.  Mrs Dravitizki was one of those children who was brought out to NZ and lived here for a time.  Interesting what you discover when you stop at random places!

Waipukurau Holiday Park was my choice of a layover for the night.  I enjoyed being able to park-up and connect to the power supply.  This enabled me to have all the mod cons the van contained, especially the micro-wave for my baked potato.  The park was very quiet and the facilities clean and tidy.

Why Waipukurau you may ask?  I’d read there were appealing walking and cycling trails along each side of the Tukituki River and they needed to be checked out.

The Tukituki River Trail walk didn’t disappoint, what did surprise me was how quiet it was of other human beings.  Saw four people in two hours of walking.  The water level of the river was very low, guess partly due to the hot dry weather the area had been experiencing along with those consistent winds!  Actually, the whole of Hawkes Bay was looking ‘golden brown’.

Destination Mangakino – Lake Maraetai

I had a desire to get home and wanted to try “freedom camping” for one night before the end of my adventure.  So Mangakino was my destination.  But before that the Napier – Taupo Road to be navigated.  Driving this road required my absolute attention.  The campervan had six gears and a diesel motor so whenever there was an incline on the road I was into ‘full change gear mode’.  If I wasn’t fully concentrating I’d sometimes make the odd error of gear choice!!  Thankfully there were plenty of strategically placed “passing lanes”.  In many places, the road surface showed signs of too many heavy trucks travelling this route.

Taupo was looking picturesque, people out and about enjoying the lake, walking, and cycling the pathways.  It is always a busy town on weekends.  It was quite by accident, I caught up with Geoff in Taupo.  He was off to ride the Timber Trail the next day with mates.  Trust that adventure went well Geoff, I’m keen to hear how it went.

As it was a long weekend Mangakino campground was a very busy place.  It was great to see families enjoying the lake, swimming, water skiing, kayaking, etc.  I was surprised at how little room there was available to park up my little van, but eventually, a nice private spot was found.  During these last few days, I’ve been surprised by how few people were keen or interested in talking to me.  I am comparing this to when I travel on my bike – quite the opposite, perhaps campervanning is “normal’?  Never mind that nobody talked to me, I loved waking up in the morning on the shores of Lake Maraetai, it was very still and so peaceful –  a nice way to end my adventure before my journey to Matangi.

Recommendations

If you are in the Wairarapa or Hawkes Bay areas highly recommend the following:

Final note:

It has been a wonderful experience to travel and holiday in the campervan.  Thank you Claire for giving me this opportunity.

I did have a couple of “moments” in the van:

  1. One was thinking I had locked myself out – a valuable lesson learned there about making sure where I kept the keys.
  2. The other was accidentally knocking the toilet cassette lid down the “dump hole” as I was emptying it.  Luckily it floated and was easily retrieved.  Thank goodness no-one was watching!

This blog is finally completed, it’s taken a while!  If you have any travel stories you’d like to share please let me know, I’d love to post them under my “Guest Bloggers” section.  Just contact me.

What next?  Who knows – a bit of tramping and of course plenty of cycling?  Till next time, go and try something new and don’t forget to share it!  GoldCard Gal 🙂

(E & OE)

Additional scenes

Ngawi bulldozers
Walking and mountain bike trails in Waipukurau
Final night – you can see I’ve got my priorities right! Wine, chocolates, and a good book – what more could a girl ask for?

Te Araroa Trail – One Step at a Time – Part 1

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It is 2.30 pm on Monday, 3rd January 2022. Yvonne and I are seated around a small wooden table, sipping a cold ginger beer, with a cool ocean breeze blowing on our backs, shaded by a black and white umbrella outside Dock Side Bar (Wellington harbour waterfront).  Our ferry crossing isn’t until 8.30 pm this evening  – so a little time to fill-in, what better way than to start a post.

As we walked to catch the bus from the Wellington airport to train station this morning, I asked Yvonne “what are your feelings today?”  her response was “excitement, anticipation, apprehension, fearful.”  Her feelings are very similar to mine – quite a normal response before any major journey I would say.  What would you say?

I thought back to what John (Yvonne’s husband) said on the way to the Hamilton airport this morning:

“You really start living when you are out of your comfort zone.”

John having been a pilot (top dressing pilot in earlier days) no doubt had many “out of comfort zone” experiences. That quote resonated with me and a good reason to embrace the journey ahead hence the title “One step at a time”. As this is the only thing I feel I can have control over that is besides my mental state.

Thank you all for your kind and encouraging words in texts and emails. Thank you Sue for your banner, it made us feel special – bit of celebrity status if you get the gist!  By the number of recent subscriptions to my blog – the pressure is on to both physically perform and write enjoyable blogs!

Start of journey

As you know a journey starts months and sometimes years before it comes to fruition.  Reading other people’s stories and adventures always inspires me and gets the mind and imagination stimulated.  I can partly blame my cycling friend Sari for me getting back into hiking.  Last year Sari and I hiked the Timber Trail and while I had dreadful sore feet (mechanical issues) – no blisters, I realised I too can do longer hikes.  It also ignited a spark in my mind for more hiking like adventures.  Being away from ‘from it all’ with everything you need on your back gives me a deep sense of satisfaction and contentment, something I strive to experience more and more on my world.  What brings you that sense of contentment?

I have spent hours preparing my body and mind for this journey – giving it my best shot.  Went on a map reading course (twice), have given dehydrating food a go, will let you know whether that has been successful or not later. Experimented with different types of footwear, ended up needing orthotics which have proved to be a success.  Updated my sleeping system which now weights 1.7 kgs.   The list goes on, but all I can say and do now it to approach this “long walk” with positively, flexibility and be “in the moment” (bite of cliché) and embrace “the out of comfort zone” moments.

Below is a view of my basics, which comes to 8.125 kgs.  No food, water or pack weight included. Never in my life have I worn the same clothes for weeks on end, I will not be making any fashion statements.

Thank you Winston Peters

Neither Yvonne nor I have a need to travel much on local public transport so today catching the bus into the city was an interesting experience.  Fortunately for us the bus driver was young, very helpful and understanding of two old gals with packs on.  We had completely forgotten that because we are Goldcard holders we didn’t need to pay, that was after much conversing.  As I made my way down the aisle and sat down at on a vacant seat, another older person said “you two are Goldcard holders aren’t you, of course you travel for free.”  It was said in such a tone that – everyone knows that sort of thing.  So, thank you Winston for this little piece of legislation.

Storing backpacks

Thank you for Waterloo Backpackers for providing the facility to store our packs safely until we needed to catch the ferry.  That was another incident that the poor male receptionist must have thought “what have we got here???”  But what we’re finding is interesting how “patient and polite” these young people have been towards us. Silver hair and age has some real positives!!

Tomorrow morning, we are looking forward to catching up with my old cycling mate Sari. She will be meeting up with us later in the Richmond Range area and bringing in some of my home made dehydrated food along with some other goodies.  And catching up with my brother Ben and sister-in-law Fran for coffee and a chin wag.

In the afternoon at 1.30 pm we catch the water taxi to Ship Cover, start of Queen Charlotte track.  I know many of you have either cycled or walked it, but for Yvonne and me it’s a first.  So, it is the beginning of our “long walk – with one step at a time.”

Till next time, enjoy this wonderful summer weather and make the most of each day.  Take care – GoldCard Gal 😊

PS.  I must remember to take more photographs!

Wellington waterfront
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