We arrived here in Courmayeur, on 26 August for four nights. It is a stylist mountain town in amongst the Mt Blanc massif. It is truly magnificent. The shopping centre is beautifully laid out with narrow cobbled streets with many small boutique type shops, including numerous outdoor clothing shops. Plenty of selection for the ‘label’ fans.
Tracy and I are both enjoying our rest day today. Sleeping in and taking it slowly. We booked a trip up on the Skyway gondola– it was exciting. A must do if you are ever here. The views were breathtaking and the design of the whole system a magnificent feat of engineering. As we travelled up and down, the gondola slowly rotated 360 degrees.
Back to the start
We started our adventure in Les Houches with a cable car ride. It was exciting with the car jammed packed full of hikers. We didn’t start hiking until 10 am and got to our destination about 5.30 pm that evening. We both were shattered – it was a hot day with the long up-hills and seeming never-ending downhills.
Surprises
Rather than give a day by day description of our hiking, I thought it more interesting to write about our experiences and/or surprises.
The daily temperatures – ranging between 23 – 28 degrees. Jolly hard going with the sun beating down on us, with little or no wind. AND we are tired! Plus our lily white bodies are not used to the intense sun or heat!! We are slowly getting a little tan!
We have been surprised at the number of people hiking the trail – there are 100’s. Some on guided tours, some like us unguided and many back-packing it. All doing different routes and staying at different accommodation – quite interesting. Freedom camping is not permitted in Italy – a possible 500€ fine if caught.
Trail running seems very popular over here and there are many of them on the trail. They are lean, fit and sun-tanned. They are lite and nimble on their feet and seem to glide past – a little deflating for a ‘tortoise” like me! Many of these runners are often accompanied by their dog. Which has also surprised us is the number of dogs everywhere, on the gondolas,, in the shops and buses, big, small and in-between sizes.
When I saw this man and his horse again yesterday I realised he could be carrying peoples luggage between Refugio’s. We had seem him the previous day on another trail. That poor horse had a huge load on yesterday! An interesting job.
The tracks have been well defined and firm under foot. Very little loose gravel and the rock is non-slippery.
Another highlight was crossing Col de la Croix (2480m). As we scrambled our way up to the Col we could hear the sounds of a concertina – no idea of where the music was coming from until we saw this young women sitting on top of a large rock playing. It was quite surreal and unexpected to hear music in that environment. Not far from where she was sitting was a large France Alpine Club building, perhaps she was staying there?
Using local transport
Some days start with a bus trip to the start of the trail. While initially we thought this would be annoying it has worked out as a bonus, because we get to see and experience more of the local area. The same goes for the end of a trail day, again catching local transport to our accommodation. All this transport is free. One day we even caught a chairlift and gondola down. The Courmayeur area has chairlifts and gondolas everywhere – it’s a very popular ski destination in winter. We have got to see how patient the locals are at driving and giving way on the many very narrow hair-pin winding roads. The bus or oncoming traffic often having to reverse to let traffic through. Have even seen a few speed bumps!!
Accommodation and food
Our accommodation has been excellent, generally twin beds with an ensuite shower and toilet. It is soo good to have a hot shower and evening meal provided after a long day on the trail. Even though here in Courmayeur at the Crampton Hotel we have to eat out every night as they only provide breakfast. These breakfasts are the like small banquets! Shame my appetite has not been what it usually is!!
We have enjoyed a varied selection of French cuisine – all beautifully prepared and appreciated by all. Our meal times together have been one of the highlights so far. Each night a different group of people with much laughter, joking and banter.
The night we stayed in Les Chapieux we meet a competitor in the up-incoming ultra Tour De Mont Blanc. He was very interesting and has done many ultras before. They have 46 hrs and so many minutes to complete the 170 km trail. They start Friday night in Chamonix. Cannot imagine running through the night over some of the tracks we have hiked. His husband is a Columbian and was such fun to be around. Tracy asked him “What will you be doing while your husband is running?” his response was “Eating cheese and drinking wine.” Said with a big smile. They both were delightful and we certainly enjoyed their company.
Tomorrow we move into Switzerland. It’s another big day with a long climb. Tracy will be doing that on her own as I’m currently experiencing extreme breathlessness (like never before and in contact with my Dr) along with constant nausea and a chest cough – not much fun but still loving our adventure and experiences. Trying to get to see a Dr, when and where will be interesting.
That is it at present. Thank you for your feedback. I always enjoy reading your comments.
Have a wonderful adventure The Morgans!
Go Team NZ – I hear they have had a mishap with their boat – oops!! 🙁 Go the All Blacks! Till next time.
Scenes on the TMB trail
The sun was very welcome this afternoon. I was able to finish one of my to-do list items. Replacing the edging of one of my raised vegetable gardens. I debated about getting untreated timber like I’d always done, but of course we’re in a lockdown. The idea to use what I already had at home, bricks and pavers came to me while out bike riding. It’s not perfect but it will last a lot longer than untreated timber. Would love to have had railway sleepers but the price of them encouraged me to think of alternative solutions. Now I need to plant my broad bean seeds and a cover crop. You gardeners out there, do you sow a cover crop for winter and if so, what do you plant?
My Feijoa ice cream
when I last visited; a bustling little country town and saw only two vacant shops. The 
