GoldCard Gal

Jobs fill your pockets, but adventures fill your soul!

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Without dreams, where are the adventures?

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Links   I should have mentioned this earlier.  In case you haven’t noticed any time I mention a business or cycle trail etc I always include a link to that website, in case you want further information.  I could go through manually and add code to all the links or I could highlight the text to identify links.  As a reader, which would you prefer – underscore text or highlighted text?  Please let me know for future blogs.

“Without dreams where are the adventures?”, these were Sari’s words of wisdom this morning as we cycled along the quiet country back-roads of Central Otago.  Hawkdun Hills on our right and Black Stone Hills on our left, with the big blue sky above.  The Hawkdun Hills changing colour depending on the sun – quite captivating to watch.

Hawkdun Range, Oturehua – Otago Rail Trail

Clutha Gold Cycle Trail

This is a two-day adventure from Lawrence to Lake Roxburgh Dam, (or vice versa) following the mightly Clutha Mata-au River.

Sari & Heather at start of Clutha Gold Trail

Lawrence – Miller’s Flat

27 February, 2018.  Belinda dropped us off at Lawrence, an early gold mining town.  It’s a cute town with very old buildings that seem to be well cared for.  In the gold mining days Lawrence was where the highest population of Chinese were settled.

This afternoon we are following the Clutha Gold Trail, through to Miller’s Flat.  This trail passes through four settlements: Lawrence, Beaumont, Miller’s Flat and Roxburgh.  It is approx 73 kms long, full of variety; the terrain is undulating, flat and meandering – mainly travelling beside the mighty Clutha River.  That river is huge.  We rode through a 440m-long Big Hill Tunnel.

The little towns we’ve pass through have some beautiful old stone buildings, some restored and some not. I’ve learnt so much about the gold rush days – gee they were hardly souls.

We found a lovely camping ground in Miller’s Flat – Miller’s Flat Holiday Park.  The new camp owners originally came from Levin.  We were advised to go across the bridge for dinner to the Millers Flat Tavern where I ordered West Coast Whitebait fritters, salad and chips – oh boy they were delicious and Sari had lamb shanks.  As we sat down to wait for our dinner a lady from the next table started talking to us about what bike rides we had been doing.  As it turned out they had seen us cycling Mt Nicholas to Mossburn and passed us in their camper-vans as we battled wind and rain on Sunday.  One of the driver’s recognised my purple hair of all things, he said “it was blowing out the side of my helmet“.  It’s been surprising the people we have met in the different parts of Southland and Otago who have been on the same adventures as us.  Many are Kiwis tripping around in their camper-vans in small groups.

Miller’s Flat – Alexander (51 kms)

End of Clutha Gold Trail and beginning of Roxburgh Gorge Trail

28 February, 2018.  It was a very foggy start from Miller’s Flat, heading towards Roxburgh continuing alongside the mighty Clutha River.  The Roxburgh Dam was very interesting and rather large.  This is technically the end of the Clutha Gold Trail and beginning of the Roxburgh Gorge Trail (this trail takes you to Alexander including a 13 km boat trip).

Roxburgh Gorge Trial

The Gorge part of the trail I found tricky at times (out of my comfort zone stuff – which is easy) as I’m not a natural mountain bike rider.  So very thankful for disc brakes on my bike – they certainly help with the step downhill sections and those hair raising hair-pin turns, which I’m hopeless at.   The track had a great surface, was up and down, with stunning views.

At the end of gorge section you have the option of turning around and going back or take a boat ride to the next part of the trail.  We had organised the 13 km boat ride with Clutha River Cruises on the mighty Clutha River to take us to Doctors Point (12 kms from Alexander).  The boat driver explained the gold mining history to us and showed us a number of old goldminers’ homes.

Apparently what a lot of people do is ride in and out on the trails, choosing not to take the boat trip.  I’m glad we paid the $s, the experience was well worth it – considering I may never do this ride again.

We’re camping in Alexander Holiday Camp.  The facilities are great and this is the first time I’ve actually prepared a meal.  We often eaten out, or eat dehydrated meals with a few add-ins.  I’ve missed cooking meals.

Wealthy miner’s home – Roxburgh Gorge We had a lovely visit from (my brother) Les and (sister-in-law) Carol who where on their way back to Cromwell – shame we didn’t have enough food to feed them!

Tomorrow we start riding the Otago Rail Trail, so good night – sleep tight!!  🙂

Otago Rail Trail

Alexander – Oturehua (64 kms)

1 March 2018.  Really looking forward to finally riding some of the Otago Rail Trail.  As usual we got away in good time after being photographed by an American cyclist (Larz) who was amazed at what we are doing.  He also said “if you two were staying longer, I would have loved to have recorded a video interview“.  Yeh right we both thought.  As we cycled off Sari passed the comment “we must be starting to look really old and haggard otherwise, why are so many people amazed at what we are doing?”  That comment gave me something to ponder on for the next few kilometers – without a definite answer.

We stopped for my coffee fix at Muddy Creek Café in Omakau (the only place selling coffee).  Had a delicious peach muffin and OK coffee.  The landscape along the trail is quite stunning.  We imagined ourselves on the old steam train slowly chugging up the inclines, through the tunnels and down again to Oturehau.  The trail winds through the Ida Valley – a huge expansive valley surrounded by hills and looking very green after the rains.  This was a place I’d read about and to be finally here – in the valley cycling, was special to me.

This couple riding electric tricycles

As we cycled along the trail we came across more interesting people also riding.  This South African (couple who live in Auckland) were out enjoying the surrounds.  They were riding 10 kms out to have lunch which was nicely packed in her blue and fawn spotted bag and back again to their camper-van.  Her lipstick and helmet colours matched perfectly – she looked very classy on the trail.

We found a camping ground called The Crow’s Nest Accommodation in Oturehau.  It’s a delightful place with a variety of accommodation options where we pitched our tents.  The hosts Bill and Mel had only recently purchased (September, 2017) the camp ground.  Bill had grown up around Central Otago and was keen to return.  They had come from Tauranga.  The kitchen is very well equipped and we had the place to ourselves – it was very relaxing.

Last year I read the book “A Way Home” by Jillian Sullivan.  The book was about her building her own straw bale home here in Oturehau.  Guess what, it is next door to the camp ground.  We popped over to have a chat with Jillian but unfortunately she is away.  Her straw bale home was one of the reason’s I wanted to visit Oturehua.  Next door to her home we saw a little mud-brick building in the process of being built – it looked very cute, another material I’m very interested in.  Oh, how I wished she was at home, I’m sure we could have had an interesting conversation.  Jillian does do AirBnB which we’d tried to book the night before but was not available – that would have been an amazing experience.

We had a very nice meal at local hotel (did have to wait an hour for it) and then home to bed.

Oturehau – unplanned rest day – full of surprises

2 March, 2018.  During the night when I got up to go to the toilet I found I couldn’t walk straight – wobbled all over the place and had to hold onto objects to get to the toilet.   A very frightening experience.  A first for me but probably something some of you have experienced!  Went back to bed and hoped by the morning all would be well – but of course that was expecting a bit much.  We decided to have an unplanned rest day here in Oturehau.  We visited Hayes Engineering Works and Homestead for our coffee fix and had a quiet day relaxing and chatting with the locals.

Guess what, Jillian (straw bale home builder) arrived home in the early evening and I was able to catch up with her.  She said “I often get readers calling in and only too happy to share my home“.  She also showed me her little mud-brick building outside which she and her son are building.  It’s going to be her studio, as she is an author.  They had got the old mud-bricks from an old building within the district that was tumbling down, cleaned the bricks and now using them.  Jillian did say “building her own home has given her much joy and happiness along with the hard work, but so rewarding.”  How I would have loved to stay and learn some extra skills.  But she has given me many ideas/thoughts to ponder over the coming kilometers.

Jillian’s straw bale house – Oturehua

The extra day in Oturehua gave us the opportunity to get to chat to the locals a little more and get a feel for the community which seems very active and engaged.  Bill our camp host recorded for NIWA the 9 am temperature and rain fall.  The wives were baking for the up-incoming ewe sale on Monday.  One of the local women were cleaning the public toilets, and at a recent community meeting 80% of the 30 residents attended, which is quite normal.

Oturehua – somewhere on Thomson’s Gorge Track, Dunstan Mountains via St Bathans (54 kms)

3 March, 2018.  Some months ago I’d seen a section in St Bathans I thought sounded interesting! (just a phase I seem to go through) so while we were up this way, why not check out the St Bathans section.

Main Street, St Bathans

As soon as we cycled into St Bathans I knew I couldn’t live here, and when we saw the section there was no way I could build there – no wonder it was cheap!!!  St Bathans is in a valley and would get very little sun in the winter months when it would be extremely cold and a little too far away from towns etc.  We had a very interesting hour there though.  The people we met:  firstly the abseiler from Auckland who lives in St Bathans for 3 weeks, then flies back to Auckland to work for 1 week and then returns.  He has brought an old barn and doing that up on the inside.  We had a brief hello to his girlfriend who comes over from Dunedin, she has the cutest little house – it was in the movie “Light between the oceans”.

Old Bank & Gold Office – St Bathans

We saw table and chairs outside the Vulcan Hotel along with an open sign, so we assumed it was open for business.  But it wasn’t open yet, they’d had a hard Saturday night and the cleaner was still working.  Luckily for us she was happy to make us a coffee give us a delicious date scone each.  Then we saw the owner of the pub, she was old – much older than us, hunched over and didn’t say a word – she gave the impression she wasn’t interested in communicating with customers yet!!

Vulcan Hotel – St Bathans

While we were waiting for our coffees etc, in walked the reason for the previous late night.  He was in charge of a group of mature male trail bike riders (from Christchurch) who had stayed the night, he’d come to settle bill – well part of it $350.00 was his share, his mate came in after and settled the rest $300 – it must have been some night!!

As we sat outside enjoying our coffee & scones, the main street (the only street) was choka with campervans, motorbike riders, utes and cars.  There was so much happening – we couldn’t quite believe what we were experiencing.

Thomson’s Gorge Track over Dunstan Mountains

This afternoon’s big ride was starting our climb over the Thomson Gorge Track, which takes us over the Dunstan Mountains to Tarras, Bendigo and on to Cromwell.  My brother Les had suggested this ride to us; he had driven over some time ago and thought it’d would be a great journey.  Motorists and cyclists have very different perspectives when checking out roads and tracks!!!  While we pushed, pulled and sweated our way up the first 3 kms or thereabouts, the rest of the ride was unique.  Being surrounded by mountains, on narrow single drive tracks (not that smooth), with no other noise than what you make yourself – it’s special to both Sari and I.  It’s the first time I didn’t feel nervous coming cautiously down the steep rocky sections of road; reckons it’s about time my confidence level improved but also about gaining confidence in my bike.  We never saw or heard another vehicle for 22 hrs – it was magic!

Camp site Dunstan Mountains

We are camped somewhere in the Dunstan Mountains which had a delightful little stream running between our tents.  Wide and deep enough for us to have a bath/wash and get fresh drinking water.  Tomorrow we will ride out tomorrow to Cromwell.  It’s 7.45 pm, Sari has gone to bed and I’m about to get into bed and read.  It’s been another very special day, and we feel very blessed.

When we camp the only sign you know we’ve been there is the flattened grass where we pitched our tents.    Nite nite

Mid Thomsons Gorge Track – Cromwell (65 kms)

As we hadn’t managed to get to the top of Thomson’s Gorge Track, we knew we’d be in for an early morning climb.  We weren’t to be disappointed but with the sun coming over the mountains we couldn’t complain.  Up on top of the saddle the views down to the Clutha Valley were impressive.  It was a long winding downhill, we were thankful we didn’t come up this side.

After reading the book Dust to Gold, by John Perriam, home of Shrek I’ve always dreamed of visiting the Tarras Country Store and Bendigo area.  When we finally arrived at the Cromwell – Tarras Road intersection, the Tarras Country Store was only 7 kms away but in the opposite direction.  Thankfully Sari was very accommodating and said “yes, let’s go and see your café“.  The Perriam Merino shop which is part of the Tarras Country Store has very fashionable merino garments for all the family.  It could have been very easy has spend many $s there, the clothing is beautiful and quite unusual – just as well we didn’t have room to carry any additional clothing.

After a delicious brunch it was back on the road to Cromwell, cycling around the Bendigo Loop to check the Bendigo vineyards.  The landscape is so rocky and dry you could wonder how ever do grapes grow here?

It was wonderful to return to Cromwell and be very well looked after by Les and Carol.  Time for story telling, reflections, washing and bike cleaning.

We cycle to Wanaka on Wednesday to ride the Matatapu ride on Saturday.  Then it’s off to ride the Alps to Ocean, our final adventure.  Norm (Sari’s husband) will pick us in Oamaru and drive us back to Picton around 16/17th March.  Till next time, take care out there!  GoldCard gal  🙂

 

 

Hiking The Lake Tarawera Trail

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Yippee, Hamilton finally in level two.  Cannot wait to get outdoors and explore our wilderness and at the same time do a ‘shake down’ of our gear in preparation for our “long walk” planned to start 4th January, 2022.

Some weeks earlier Yvonne (my tramping buddy) suggested we hike The Tarawera Trail to Hot Water Beach which is on the shores of Lake Tarawera.  Stay the night in the DOC campground and return the next day.

Some years ago in the middle of winter, with low cloud, and intermittent cold rain a few of my friends and I had hiked this trail with high anticipation of having a hot water soak in the lake at the end.  That adventure is another story, enough to say we didn’t get our hot water soak instead we ended up with the soles or our feet scorched and chilled to the bone.

What I’ve come to realise over the years is what makes a trip, experience or adventure memorable.  It is when things don’t go as planned or you experience some difficulty or inconvenience – those are the times you remember.  What are your most memorable experiences or adventures where things didn’t go as planned?

Lake Tarawera Trail map

This shakedown hike was about us testing our newly acquired tents, pack arrangement, sleeping system and cooking setup.  Along with accessing our level of fitness, and enabling us the space and time together to chat about a variety of topics before our long walk.

Starting at Te Wairoa

The day dawned with a clear blue sky, little wind and two days of predicted fine weather.  John (Yvonne’s husband) dropped us off at the Te Wairoa carpark, the start of the trail. That was after we had had a coffee at one of the local mountain bike parks where Yvonne informed me she trains. All I could see were hills and more hills, my heart sank as my training ground is mostly flat!

The carpark was full of activity with a large group of older people from the Shoe String Tramping Group, Tauranga.  They were busy tying up boot laces, loading on their day packs and making last minute toilet stops before heading off along the trail to the hot water pool (12 kms away).  After a soak, they were then catching the Water Taxi back to The Landing, Lake Tarawera.   This taxi service is also available to and from Hot Water Beach campground, but not one Yvonne and I would be using on this occasion.

The Trail

We hauled on our Aarn packs, had our photo taken and said goodbye to John.   We both were keen to get moving.

The first part of the track was in the open and then gradually you enter the mainly manuka and kanuka bush, which was welcome as the day was hot with a clear blue sky.  The track is well defined and easy to follow, initially quite overgrown.   It follows the contour of the lake, with plenty of ups and downs.  You are often rewarded with glimpses of the clear blue lake below through the bush.

Glimpse of Lake Tarawera and Mt Tarawera in the background

Our first stop was at Hawaiki Bay which has a toilet, picnic table and an opportunity to swim if you wish.  We enjoyed a short rest, and ate some trail mix.  We did stop here on our return journey for lunch and a swim to cool off.  It was my first sighting of Mt Tarawera in the distance.

Hawaiki Bay – Late Tarawera Trail

Our next destination was at the 12 km mark, taking a left turn down a side track to the hot pool.  We soon had our packs and boots off, and were tentatively stepping into the hot water.  To sit down and let the body relax was very soothing.  The thought did cross my mind that if the weather was much colder this experience would be even better.  We enjoyed the company and conversation of fellow pool sitters all of whom had come in by boat and then walked the short distance to this hot pool.  This is an option if you don’t want to walk the 12 kms.

Hot Pool at 12 km mark on The Tarawera Trail

Feeling refreshed we headed off – only another 4 kms to the camping ground. Before we started the last climb, we were confronted with this sign, which seemed quite extreme!  Not near as bad as you may have expected – from my perspective!

Te Rātā Bay – Hot Water Beach Camp Ground

It is always rewarding to get to your destination. It was hot and the first thing we did was off-load our packs, remove our boots, and walk straight into the clear water to cool off – instantly the sweat and dust were washed away and I felt invigorated.  The water was warm on top and cool underneath but very refreshing.

We didn’t swim where the steam rises from the lake as the ground can be very very hot!

It wasn’t long before we had boiled our billy for that welcome cup-of-tea and enjoyed some squashed fruit cake which I’d carried in –  delicious.   While we sat on the wooden park bench enjoying our cuppa and admiring the views, we got chatting to a couple who had kayaked in and were spending a few days kayaking around the lake.  They had an amazing setup, gear everywhere – mind you they didn’t have to carry their gear.

You have to book a campsite at the DOC campground.  It has approximately 30 campsites, 4 long-drop toilets and a shelter where you can cook and eat your food. No running water as there is an unlimited supply a few meters away.

We soon had our tents erected, gear sorted and started to enjoy a variety of conversations with other campers.  Shame we didn’t have a bottle of wine to savour and share, but that didn’t stop us from enjoying the moments.

Our camp site – Hot Water Beach, Lake Tarawera.  Short walk to lake edge and toilets.

Joys of camping

One of the many experiences I love about hiking and staying in a tent is you always go to bed early.  My excuse is ‘resting’ enables the body to recover from the day’s physical activity.   I had a good book I wanted to finish reading.  So, crawled into my tent, zipped down the tent opening, wriggled into my sleeping bag, turned on my head torch and read until I finished the book.

The campground was relatively quiet even though there were many families with young children also enjoying the natural surroundings.

The return journey

Thankfully Yvonne and I are similar in that we both like early morning starts.  We had enjoyed two hot drinks, eaten our muesli and packed our packs by 7.30 am when we headed back the way we had hiked the previous day.  It always amazes me how different the trail appears on a return trip.   You get such a different perspective of your surrounds – it’s a bit like walking a new trail.

After removing our packs and boots, we enjoyed another swim at Hawaiki Bay.  Then enjoyed our lunch and had a short power nap.  While resting I pondered the idea of whether this may be our routine on our long walk?

While eating our lunch Yvonne texted her husband to meet us around 2pm but it never displayed the fact that the text had actually been sent.  So, we were mentally preparing for a road walk until John received her message.  Fortunately for us, who should we see standing on a bridge observing the stream below, but John.  He was a welcome sight.  He’d also had a busy weekend playing tennis.

A great weekend was had by all.  Thank you Yvonne for your thoughts, conversations, company, and energy.

Reflections

  • Meet lots of interesting people
  • Most enjoyable adventure
  • Fabulous weather
  • Gear worked as expected
  • Good level of fitness
  • Feet and body good
  • Excellent company
  • Successful 2 days
  • Do it again?  Yes definitely and would highly recommend it, even if you get a water taxi one way or both ways.

Lake Tarawera Trail Scenes

As we left camp, this was our morning scene – just beautiful
Yvonne enjoying the views
Good signage along the trail

What is next?

Yvonne and I start our long walk (Te Araroa Trail, South Island) on afternoon of 4 January, 2022 when we will be dropped off by water taxi at Ship Cove, start of Queen Charlotte Track.  Hopefully, I will post updates when I have the energy and if and when cell phone coverage is available.

That is it until sometime in January, 2022.  Have a great Christmas and New Year!  Take care out there – Goldcard Gal 🙂

Part 5 – Southland completed

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Firstly, thank you for your feedback and comments.  They are always appreciated.

On Sunday, 6 February we completed the Southland section of the Te Araroa trail.  It is rewarding to know we have walked from Bluff to Greenstone Carpark on the upper western shores of Lake Wakatipu.  On one of our day’s towards the end we faced challenges of raging streams and river crossings.  All Yvonne and I can say is a special thank you to Dean, Allan and Robert (guys we have met on the trail and in the photo below), for their guidance, support and companionship.  They are leaving the trail now for various reasons.  It feels kind of weird to have them depart – we will miss them.  BUT will keep in touch!

The guys, from left Robert, Dean and Allan

We have enjoyed a couple of days in Queenstown, relaxing, buying some additional merino clothing, and sending home unused gear.

This morning we climbed the big hill (Tiki Trail, also known as Queenstown Gondola trail) behind Queenstown and then caught the gondola down. Absolutely amazing to see the infrastructure set-up at the top and the new construction that is now happening at both the top and bottom of the gondola facilities.

Current Skyline Gondola – Queenstown
The plan for the new Skyline Gondola terminals.

We are off to Cromwell for two nights visiting and catching up with my brother Les and sister-in-law Carol.  We have some food to collect there and a good opportunity to catch up with family.  Then onto Wanaka to start the next stage of our walk, hopefully meeting up with Jodi and her friend from Auckland.

You will hear from Yvonne in the next post.

This is my diary from Te Anau to Queenstown.  Again, suggest you make a coffee or pour a wine before you begin reading it.

Days 13, 14 and 15

1 February 2022 – Zero day in Te Anau

Our rest days in Te Anau have been relaxing, we even went to the movies and saw Deer Wars and Ata Whenua – Shadowland.  NZ documentary type movies.  Deer Wars was about the men and machines involved in the 20-year deer industry: culling, recovery, and exportation of venison, very interesting.

Ata Whenua – Shadowland was a ‘fly’ through Milford Sound showing its awe-inspiring landscapes that you would never otherwise see.

I succumbed and went to a hair salon today and brought a small amount of purple hair shampoo.  Soap just hasn’t been doing it for my hair – it looks dull and has no bounce or life to it. I realised I am vain after all – surprise, surprise – yeh right!  🙂

We have enjoyed catching up with our walking buddies: Dean, Allan and Robert again, they are in the room next door to us.

I’ve enjoyed cooking our meals while staying here in Te Anau, eating plenty of vegetables and other healthy food options.  Yvonne always happy to clean-up afterwards which makes cooking so much more pleasurable.

And our feet have improved greatly, it’s been a chance for them to be dry and get plenty of fresh air.

GoldCard Gal & Yvonne ready to leave Te Anau

Te Anau – Kiwi Burn Hut 6 kms

Day 15 – 2 February 2022

As heavy rains have been predicted for the West Coast, we have been closely monitoring the weather forecasts.  Will we get the predicted rainfall going up through the Mavora Lakes?  Guess that’s a question we all are asking?

We were ready to get back on the trail again, come rain or not.  Walking the trail seems to be bring a purpose to our day and being.

We, along with the ‘boys’ have organised a lift from Te Anau to The Quarry, which provides access to Kiwi Burn Hut via a swing bridge.  This saved us a long section of road walking.

The trail into Kiwi Burn hut was easy. Meaning it was well defined, no climbing and easy underfoot, but we still got wet feet.  The bush was beautiful beech forest.  We met a beautiful little black robin on the track, who hopped up close to us and checked us out – completely unafraid. It was quite special.

Yvonne outside Kiwi Burn Hut, south of Mavora Lakes

The Kiwi Burn hut sleeps 16 people in two separate rooms.  So far there are seven people here, two SOBO’s and us five.  We’ve had a wonderful afternoon/evening chatting, and planning/organising the next few days journey up to top of Lake Wakatipu via Mavora Lakes.

Day 16

Kiwi Burn Hut – Careys Hut 26 kms

3 February, 2022

It poured down with rain during the night but when we woke this morning it was fine and misty.  The fine weather only lasted a couple of hours then it was rain coats all day with no let-up of the rain.

Today’s track was through mainly beech forest travelling up on western side of the Mavora River, through to South and North Mavora Lakes.  On a fine day this area is beautiful – but not so today.  Sari and I camped here at Mavora Lakes 4 years ago, and as I remember it was extremely windy – you never forget those days on a bike!!

Today was the first day with no photographs – because of the rain, low cloud, and unexciting scenery.

We were very glad to get to our hut – Carey’s Hut, a lovely six bunk hut with an old cold range oven and open fireplace.  But unfortunately, no dry firewood.  We could have done with a fire to dry out all our wet clothes for tomorrow.

Carey’s Hut on shoreline of North Mavora Lake
Inside Carey’s Hut – plenty of room

When we arrived at the hut, cold and wet Allan kindly boiled the billy for us.  After a short rest it was dinner and then into bed.  Both Yvonne and I are feeling pretty tired tonight – it was quite a big day.  Good night.

Day 17

Carey’s Hut to Taipo Hut – 18 kms (well that was the plan)

4 February 2022

It continued to rain during the night. As Dean mentioned this morning “all events today have been cancelled.” That was the sort of day, wet, cold, and overcast.

After putting on our wet socks and shoes again, never a pleasant experience, we left the hut.  Five minutes down the track we had a small river crossing re-enforcing why we put on wet socks again.  Little did we know we would have a day of challenges – crossing raging streams and rivers, which ultimately led to a hard decision being made but the right decision.

Due the couple of days of continuous rain, we were surprised at how high and fast the rivers and streams were flowing.  Thank goodness our guys Robert, Allan and Dean soon caught up to us and were vital in enabling us to safely cross numerous streams and rivers.  A couple of times we spent ages trying to find a suitable crossing, walking up and down the banks looking for safe spots to cross.  Without the guys there was no way Yvonne, and I would have attempted any of the crossings.  They guided and supported us to ensure we didn’t fall, slip, or float away.

Finally, our hut for the night (Taipo) was in sight approx. 300m the other side of our last river crossing.  We walked up and down the river looking for a suitable crossing point.  The river was raging, Allan tried to cross a couple of spots, could get so far then had to turn back.  While waiting around we were getting colder and colder and you realised how easy hyperthermia can set in.  What were we going to do?

The decision was made to leave the crossing until the morning and go and find a spot to camp for the night.  It was the last thing we felt like doing as there weren’t many suitable tent sites, and it was still raining, and that hut across the river looked very inviting.

We ended up camping under a group of trees beside an upper part of the raging river.  First, we had to clear away the cattle pooh and broken dead twigs then set up our tents in a very confined space, but we were safe.

Unplanned campsite.  Yvonne and GoldCard Gal in amongst the cow pooh.  Feeling very cold and looking forward to getting inside our tents and into our sleeping bags to get warm.  Sadly this photo doesn’t display the smells that we experienced.

Yvonne and I were soon inside our tents wrapped up in our sleeping bags trying to get warm – it had been a long tough day.  We were so appreciative that Dean, Robert and Allan were there to help and guide us, otherwise the day would have had quite a different outcome.  Thank you guys we owe you beers when we hit Queenstown.

Raging stream just below our camp site. There were many large boulders unseen under all that water! Further down the stream widened into a raging river. An unanimous decision was made not to try and cross it. 🙂

We didn’t bother about cooking dinner tonight; we ate our lunch snacks instead and settled in for a long night in bed.

Day 18

Camp site – Greenstone Valley Hut – 11 kms

5 February, 2022

Fortunately, during the night, the rain stopped, and the river level had dropped considerably.  It’s never much fun packing up damp and dirty gear, but we do what we must do.  We were able to cross at the designated crossing point with the help of Dean, Robert and Allan.  After that we never saw the guys until Greenstone hut.

We did have another river crossing closer to Greenstone hut, and this time Yvonne and I successfully applied all our learning from yesterday and made it safely across.  We had heard from another SOBO walker that he could not cross this river yesterday.  What a difference 14 hrs make to water levels.

The trail today was through high tussock, more beech forest, and many muddy patches of various depths.

It was so good to have the sun shining again and starting to see the tops of the surrounding mountains (Livingstone and Thompson Mountains) – quite magnificent.

We knew we had arrived at the Greenstone hut because the guys had their tents, sleeping bags and clothing out drying in the sunshine on the golden coloured grass.  We also soon had our gear out drying.

The hut was beautiful, sleeps 20 people in two separate rooms.  The dining area was generous with two large wooden dining tables surrounded by long wooden seats.  Plenty of stainless-steel bench space for people to cook along with two separate sinks with running cold water, detergent and pot scrubber.

Greenstone Hut with flushing toilets only in the summer

Again, we meet many interesting people this afternoon/evening.  A mum (Jodi) and daughter (Ruby) from Auckland whom we just seemed to connect with.  So hopefully next week we will be walking with Jodi and a friend of hers while Ruby returns to Christchurch for university.  We have met quite a few dad’s and daughter’s walking together – what an opportunity for ‘bonding’.

It doesn’t seem to matter how long the daily distance is, we always find the last couple of hours a bit of a struggle. We were glad to get to Greenstone hut, it is beautiful, does have a hut warden and even flush toilets but only in the summer.  And it is full of trampers!!

Struggling mentally

I’m really tired tonight and today is the first day I’ve struggled mentally.  Guess it had to happen sooner or later.  On reflection I realised it was because I was dehydrated.  I hadn’t been to the toilet all day which is most unusual – that in itself should be sent signals to me.  Also I realised I had hardly drunk any fluid all day because we didn’t do our usual hourly stops where we always drink water and eat something small and nutritional.  This experience has made me aware of the importance of drinking plenty of water, having regular stops, and monitoring my toilet stops – that sounds fun eh?

Queenstown tomorrow night – yippy!

Day 18

Greenstone Hut – Greenstone Carpark Pickup – 11 kms

5 February 2022

We were the first to leave the hut this morning, 6.50 am.  This is the earliest we’ve ever started.  Yvonne is an early bird and that ensures we’re usually on the trail in good time.

It was a beautiful clear, fresh feeling morning as we headed down to the bridge that crossed the Greenstone River.  This wooden bridge was many many meters above the water that was rushing through the narrow gorge below.  I was expecting another swing bridge – so it was a nice surprise to have a wooden bridge instead!

Yvonne was on a mission this morning, walking briskly with me lagging along behind enjoying the ‘peaceful moments’ and often glancing down to view the large rushing river below.  I think Yvonne could smell civilisation!!  She said ‘it’s because I don’t have to concentrate and the track was smooth and easy to follow.‘

The track was very well maintained and easy to follow again mainly through beech forest.  Saw a couple of friendly black robins, they’re so curious and unafraid of humans and even saw deer grazing in an open grassy area before they quickly disappeared upon hearing our voices.

Transport from Greenstone car park to Glenorchy and Queenstown

If you haven’t organised transport from here it can be a mission and because we hadn’t had cell phone coverage for many days, we hadn’t organised any transport.  But, as we’re learning, things often work out.

We arrived at the carpark about 10.30 am only to find another couple had ordered a shuttle ride and had spare seats to Glenorchy.  So, Yvonne, Dean and I got a ride in a 4-wheel drive vehicle (with a trailer for packs) which was driven very fast along a narrow windy metal road, breaking suddenly when meeting an on-coming vehicle.  Thank goodness I wasn’t sitting in the front seat.

We were dropped off at Glenorchy as the next shuttle to Queenstown was 3 pm.  We spent a few delightful hours chilly out, reminiscing the last few days, enjoying a flat white coffee and savouring each mouthful of a thickly buttered cheese scone.   Later to be joined by Jodi and Ruby with more laughter and reminiscing taking place.

In Queenstown we booked into the Adventurers Queenstown Hostel.  This is a very friendly, clean and well-equipped hostel.  The showers and toilets were modern and the staff friendly. Our dirty clothes were washed and dried within the hour for a small fee.  Yvonne and I had the room to ourselves which was appreciated.

We enjoyed a Sunday roast dinner with Robert and Allan at The Pig and Whistle which was delicious, just a tad better than the freeze-dry meals we have been eating.  As I hardly ever eat out at home it’s been interesting to experience these ‘Sunday roast’ meals – really good value.  Then home to bed.

Unsettling times and emotional challenges

With the guys leaving the trail it has unsettled me, not sure why?  I think knowing they are somewhere on the trail gives us a sense of security, and now we won’t have that.  Another little voice says to me ‘but you’ll meet other people on the trail.‘

As the weather forecast is not looking great for the next few days, it’s forced us to re-think our next stage.  This part of the trail has 26 river crossings and some high climbs so we have decided for safety reasons we will join the trail again in Wanaka, where hopefully Jodi and her friend may also join us.

When we decide to miss a section out for whatever reason, I feel like I’m dodging the tough stuff, feeling pathetic and cowardly and I’m struggling with these feelings.  I guess this experience/journey is highlighting my weaknesses and forcing me to come to terms with my inadequacies, which I have always known are there but in many everyday situations you can easily sweep them away – so to speak.  The river crossing experiences from the other day have left me feeling extra cautious and exposed additional inadequacies!!

I guess these emotional challenges are all part of a long journey?  My inner voice is saying to me ‘deal with them Heather and get on with the next stage.’  I would love to read/hear about your coping strategies with your inadequacies – what do you do?

As I complete this post I can smell the roast lamb dinner cooking – sure gets the digestive juices going!! We’re having dinner with Les, Carol and their son Blair, Anna (Blair’s wife) and their children.  Their children are delightful and a pleasure to be around and appreciate all the different personalities the children have.

That is until next time – not sure when or where that will be.  In the meantime, take care out there and thank you again for your feedback and comments.  It’s now raining outside which was expected and that partly justifies our decisions.  GoldCard Gal  🙂

Additional scenes

Looking up towards the Greenstone Valley
Looking up Gorge Road towards Coronet Peak in the distance from the top of the gondola.

The final chapter for this adventure!

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I feel this quote from Anthony Bourdain describes our adventure well.

“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s OK. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.” 

We have been blessed, no mechanical issues including no punctures.  While travelling down some steep hills I was always very grateful for the invention of disc brakes on my bike; at times they must have got very hot!  We had no physical injuries, our bodies served us well. Perhaps because we had plenty of rest days, what we liked to call  ‘getting to know our surroundings’ day. It’s been a wonderful cycling adventure and holiday.

I liked the look of this letterbox

As I write this blog sitting on my comfortable office chair, I think of Sari cycling her way back towards Wellington following the Tour Aotearoa route (Kennett Brothers).  She is one amazing woman and it was a pleasure and privilege to have her as my cycling companion and friend as we explored New Zealand back roads.

After Taupo Sari and I decided to go our separate ways, not because of any disagreement but for practical reasons.  Sari didn’t see much point in cycling up to Hamilton to only return south again and I agreed with her.

It wasn’t the same when I left Taupo to cycle back to Hamilton, it was extra quiet, no banter and no sharing of thoughts, sights and laughter.  While I’m happy to travel on my own I’ve come to realise to share experiences has more lasting meaning, you have someone to laugh and cry with, it even makes you evaluate why you think the way you think, and wonder how you can have such different perspectives on events and issues.  This adventure re-enforced the saying “don’t sweat the small stuff”!!

Cycling along Oreipunga Road – cliffs on side of Maungatautari

Waipara Road route

I choose not to cycle the Waikato River trails mainly because of the load I was carrying, instead rode Waipara Road route.  Still challenging but easier if you know what I mean – less concentration.  Again it was great seeing the country side and how it is farmed.  It was pretty hot, and I was very thankful there were plenty of homes I could ask for extra water.  One family insisted I have cold water with ice cubes and his partner came out with an ice-cream – it was heaven to me, I was so grateful and it certainly improved my mood!

Somewhere along Waipara Road I came across Blair (cyclist from Wellington) having a rest in the shade – always a good excuse to stop and hear about other peoples adventures.  He was doing a three day ride and had come from Kawhia (that morning) and heading to Taupo.  He was bike packing on a road bike.  I shared my aeroplane lollies (great sugar boost) with him and then we both set off in opposite directions.  Meeting and chatting to people along the way always give you a boost both mentally and physically and I love hearing about their adventures.

Arapuni Backpackers

The sight of a road sign saying 12 kms to Arapuni was a relief.  I was tired and just wanted to get to my destination.  Arapuni Backpackers was a welcome sight where I was able to enjoy unlimited cups of tea, and fresh sheets on my bunk bed.  Steve and Lorraine (owners) are British and have been in Arapuni some years, originally from Auckland.  They’ve created a very special place for travellers needing a night’s accommodation with clean sheets, new shower & toilet and you can even help yourself to the tomatoes and courgettes from their garden.

I meet Judy (English cyclist) here.  She had an interesting story to tell.  She had moved out to NZ to be with of her partner of 9 years or so.  After 10 days of being with him and in NZ he told her to leave!!!  So, she was cycling her way down towards Taumarunui via Timber Trail on a borrowed bike hoping to sort herself out??

The next morning as I cycled out of Arapuni village (knowing this was my last day), I had mixed feelings riding back to my home in Matangi.  This final ride enabled me the time to reflect on my adventure.

Reflections

What was good, thankful for, change for next time or something else

  • Felt I had a good setup.  A lighter tent and smaller & lighter sleeping bag and mattress would be great, but that comes at a huge expense – is it worth it, not sure
  • I packed too many pairs of socks and changes of underwear
  • Need a lighter and more compact notebook
  • My food choices about right – dehydrated food getting more tastier.  Will have more packets of dehydrated peas next time, they’re great to add to any meal
  • Loved exploring the back roads of New Zealand – there’s plenty more to do
  • Enjoyed the train journey to Ohakune – would definitely travel by train again
  • Enjoyed drinking Jed’s coffee bean bags (took these to drink when there were no cafe’s available – though I’m not addicted to one coffee a day!!)
  • Bike was great and very comfortable
  • Always useful to have a pretty light-weight dress to wear 🙂
  • Only taking cycling and walking shoes was sufficient foot wear
  • Disc brakes – love them and would never be without them
  • Loved meeting the variety of people along our way
  • Will do more exploring with Sari
  • Very pleased with how my body adjusted to the daily demands.  My knees were never an issue
  • Thankful I arrived home safely and had no incidents.
  • Love our country – I feel very lucky to be able to call it “home”
It was with much excitement to see my one coffee bean has finally turned red! Can’t wait to harvest it!!

So that is it for now.  My inner ‘adventure desire” has been filled and for the time being I’m happy being at home.  Do you have those yearnings that just have to be meet, if so I’d love to hear about them and how you feel afterwards.  No I’m not talking about shopping!!!  That is it – take care out there Goldcard Gal  🙂

PS:  Notice my one coffee bean!!  Short black coming up soon Ollie!

Te Awa River Trail – something for everyone!

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The Te Awa River trail runs from Ngaruawahia (in the north) to Lake Karapiro (in the south) and offers a variety of physical activity for everyone.  You can bike it, walk it, skate it, ride your mobility scooter (if that is what you do), or even push your children/grandchildren in a pushchair if required.  I’m writing about the section from Waikato University to Ngaruawahia – this is one of my favourite off road rides.

The majority of this trail is on a 3 m wide concrete path on the banks of the mighty Waikato River, where the scenery and views are constantly changing. You ride through the suburbs, parks, along side lifestyle blocks and farmland.  I think it is quite beautiful and a pure delight to explore and let your mind wonder! 

I love riding my mountain bike along the various cycle trails starting and ending at my home here in Matangi.  It’s a 60km return ride. The only time I’m on a road is from Matangi to Waikato University.  You can join the trail in a variety of places throughout Hamilton city.  Check out this Hamilton City website for additional information.  Recently many new sign posts have been installed on paths around the city guiding users to suburbs and the distances – thank you Hamilton City Council.

According to one website the section from Horotiu Bridge to Ngaruawahia is the most popular.  Perhaps that is because you cross the mighty Waikato River over the stunning Perry Group sponsored bridge and travel past the Ngaruawahia golf course.  I rode the trail once around ANZAC Day – what a beautiful surprise.  There were 1,000’s of crocheted and knitted red poppies pinned to the fence lines and stuck on top posts on the edge of the trail; it was a sight to be seen – amazing (sorry no photograph, the day I rode it was pouring with rain).  The local RSA members had crocheted and knitted these poppies.

There are many information panels along the trail that are informative and you may learn new things about the river, history and surrounding area.

Ngaruawahia does need a good coffee stop (I do believe one is in the construction/fitting out stage).  At present BP service station seems to be the only place to get a reasonable coffee; they also offer a wide variety of food options.  Of course you could take a picnic and enjoy that along the way with friends/family.

I would love to hear your thoughts and experiences if you had done this fabulous “in our backyard trail”.  As already mentioned, there is “something for everyone” – give it a go!  Till next time – Goldcard Gal!  🙂

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