Firstly, thank you for your feedback and comments.  They are always appreciated.

On Sunday, 6 February we completed the Southland section of the Te Araroa trail.  It is rewarding to know we have walked from Bluff to Greenstone Carpark on the upper western shores of Lake Wakatipu.  On one of our day’s towards the end we faced challenges of raging streams and river crossings.  All Yvonne and I can say is a special thank you to Dean, Allan and Robert (guys we have met on the trail and in the photo below), for their guidance, support and companionship.  They are leaving the trail now for various reasons.  It feels kind of weird to have them depart – we will miss them.  BUT will keep in touch!

We have enjoyed a couple of days in Queenstown, relaxing, buying some additional merino clothing, and sending home unused gear.

This morning we climbed the big hill (Tiki Trail, also known as Queenstown Gondola trail) behind Queenstown and then caught the gondola down. Absolutely amazing to see the infrastructure set-up at the top and the new construction that is now happening at both the top and bottom of the gondola facilities.

We are off to Cromwell for two nights visiting and catching up with my brother Les and sister-in-law Carol.  We have some food to collect there and a good opportunity to catch up with family.  Then onto Wanaka to start the next stage of our walk, hopefully meeting up with Jodi and her friend from Auckland.

You will hear from Yvonne in the next post.

This is my diary from Te Anau to Queenstown.  Again, suggest you make a coffee or pour a wine before you begin reading it.

Days 13, 14 and 15

1 February 2022 – Zero day in Te Anau

Our rest days in Te Anau have been relaxing, we even went to the movies and saw Deer Wars and Ata Whenua – Shadowland.  NZ documentary type movies.  Deer Wars was about the men and machines involved in the 20-year deer industry: culling, recovery, and exportation of venison, very interesting.

Ata Whenua – Shadowland was a ‘fly’ through Milford Sound showing its awe-inspiring landscapes that you would never otherwise see.

I succumbed and went to a hair salon today and brought a small amount of purple hair shampoo.  Soap just hasn’t been doing it for my hair – it looks dull and has no bounce or life to it. I realised I am vain after all – surprise, surprise – yeh right!  🙂

We have enjoyed catching up with our walking buddies: Dean, Allan and Robert again, they are in the room next door to us.

I’ve enjoyed cooking our meals while staying here in Te Anau, eating plenty of vegetables and other healthy food options.  Yvonne always happy to clean-up afterwards which makes cooking so much more pleasurable.

And our feet have improved greatly, it’s been a chance for them to be dry and get plenty of fresh air.

Te Anau – Kiwi Burn Hut 6 kms

Day 15 – 2 February 2022

As heavy rains have been predicted for the West Coast, we have been closely monitoring the weather forecasts.  Will we get the predicted rainfall going up through the Mavora Lakes?  Guess that’s a question we all are asking?

We were ready to get back on the trail again, come rain or not.  Walking the trail seems to be bring a purpose to our day and being.

We, along with the ‘boys’ have organised a lift from Te Anau to The Quarry, which provides access to Kiwi Burn Hut via a swing bridge.  This saved us a long section of road walking.

The trail into Kiwi Burn hut was easy. Meaning it was well defined, no climbing and easy underfoot, but we still got wet feet.  The bush was beautiful beech forest.  We met a beautiful little black robin on the track, who hopped up close to us and checked us out – completely unafraid. It was quite special.

The Kiwi Burn hut sleeps 16 people in two separate rooms.  So far there are seven people here, two SOBO’s and us five.  We’ve had a wonderful afternoon/evening chatting, and planning/organising the next few days journey up to top of Lake Wakatipu via Mavora Lakes.

Day 16

Kiwi Burn Hut – Careys Hut 26 kms

3 February, 2022

It poured down with rain during the night but when we woke this morning it was fine and misty.  The fine weather only lasted a couple of hours then it was rain coats all day with no let-up of the rain.

Today’s track was through mainly beech forest travelling up on western side of the Mavora River, through to South and North Mavora Lakes.  On a fine day this area is beautiful – but not so today.  Sari and I camped here at Mavora Lakes 4 years ago, and as I remember it was extremely windy – you never forget those days on a bike!!

Today was the first day with no photographs – because of the rain, low cloud, and unexciting scenery.

We were very glad to get to our hut – Carey’s Hut, a lovely six bunk hut with an old cold range oven and open fireplace.  But unfortunately, no dry firewood.  We could have done with a fire to dry out all our wet clothes for tomorrow.

When we arrived at the hut, cold and wet Allan kindly boiled the billy for us.  After a short rest it was dinner and then into bed.  Both Yvonne and I are feeling pretty tired tonight – it was quite a big day.  Good night.

Day 17

Carey’s Hut to Taipo Hut – 18 kms (well that was the plan)

4 February 2022

It continued to rain during the night. As Dean mentioned this morning “all events today have been cancelled.” That was the sort of day, wet, cold, and overcast.

After putting on our wet socks and shoes again, never a pleasant experience, we left the hut.  Five minutes down the track we had a small river crossing re-enforcing why we put on wet socks again.  Little did we know we would have a day of challenges – crossing raging streams and rivers, which ultimately led to a hard decision being made but the right decision.

Due the couple of days of continuous rain, we were surprised at how high and fast the rivers and streams were flowing.  Thank goodness our guys Robert, Allan and Dean soon caught up to us and were vital in enabling us to safely cross numerous streams and rivers.  A couple of times we spent ages trying to find a suitable crossing, walking up and down the banks looking for safe spots to cross.  Without the guys there was no way Yvonne, and I would have attempted any of the crossings.  They guided and supported us to ensure we didn’t fall, slip, or float away.

Finally, our hut for the night (Taipo) was in sight approx. 300m the other side of our last river crossing.  We walked up and down the river looking for a suitable crossing point.  The river was raging, Allan tried to cross a couple of spots, could get so far then had to turn back.  While waiting around we were getting colder and colder and you realised how easy hyperthermia can set in.  What were we going to do?

The decision was made to leave the crossing until the morning and go and find a spot to camp for the night.  It was the last thing we felt like doing as there weren’t many suitable tent sites, and it was still raining, and that hut across the river looked very inviting.

We ended up camping under a group of trees beside an upper part of the raging river.  First, we had to clear away the cattle pooh and broken dead twigs then set up our tents in a very confined space, but we were safe.

Yvonne and I were soon inside our tents wrapped up in our sleeping bags trying to get warm – it had been a long tough day.  We were so appreciative that Dean, Robert and Allan were there to help and guide us, otherwise the day would have had quite a different outcome.  Thank you guys we owe you beers when we hit Queenstown.

We didn’t bother about cooking dinner tonight; we ate our lunch snacks instead and settled in for a long night in bed.

Day 18

Camp site – Greenstone Valley Hut – 11 kms

5 February, 2022

Fortunately, during the night, the rain stopped, and the river level had dropped considerably.  It’s never much fun packing up damp and dirty gear, but we do what we must do.  We were able to cross at the designated crossing point with the help of Dean, Robert and Allan.  After that we never saw the guys until Greenstone hut.

We did have another river crossing closer to Greenstone hut, and this time Yvonne and I successfully applied all our learning from yesterday and made it safely across.  We had heard from another SOBO walker that he could not cross this river yesterday.  What a difference 14 hrs make to water levels.

The trail today was through high tussock, more beech forest, and many muddy patches of various depths.

It was so good to have the sun shining again and starting to see the tops of the surrounding mountains (Livingstone and Thompson Mountains) – quite magnificent.

We knew we had arrived at the Greenstone hut because the guys had their tents, sleeping bags and clothing out drying in the sunshine on the golden coloured grass.  We also soon had our gear out drying.

The hut was beautiful, sleeps 20 people in two separate rooms.  The dining area was generous with two large wooden dining tables surrounded by long wooden seats.  Plenty of stainless-steel bench space for people to cook along with two separate sinks with running cold water, detergent and pot scrubber.

Again, we meet many interesting people this afternoon/evening.  A mum (Jodi) and daughter (Ruby) from Auckland whom we just seemed to connect with.  So hopefully next week we will be walking with Jodi and a friend of hers while Ruby returns to Christchurch for university.  We have met quite a few dad’s and daughter’s walking together – what an opportunity for ‘bonding’.

It doesn’t seem to matter how long the daily distance is, we always find the last couple of hours a bit of a struggle. We were glad to get to Greenstone hut, it is beautiful, does have a hut warden and even flush toilets but only in the summer.  And it is full of trampers!!

Struggling mentally

I’m really tired tonight and today is the first day I’ve struggled mentally.  Guess it had to happen sooner or later.  On reflection I realised it was because I was dehydrated.  I hadn’t been to the toilet all day which is most unusual – that in itself should be sent signals to me.  Also I realised I had hardly drunk any fluid all day because we didn’t do our usual hourly stops where we always drink water and eat something small and nutritional.  This experience has made me aware of the importance of drinking plenty of water, having regular stops, and monitoring my toilet stops – that sounds fun eh?

Queenstown tomorrow night – yippy!

Day 18

Greenstone Hut – Greenstone Carpark Pickup – 11 kms

5 February 2022

We were the first to leave the hut this morning, 6.50 am.  This is the earliest we’ve ever started.  Yvonne is an early bird and that ensures we’re usually on the trail in good time.

It was a beautiful clear, fresh feeling morning as we headed down to the bridge that crossed the Greenstone River.  This wooden bridge was many many meters above the water that was rushing through the narrow gorge below.  I was expecting another swing bridge – so it was a nice surprise to have a wooden bridge instead!

Yvonne was on a mission this morning, walking briskly with me lagging along behind enjoying the ‘peaceful moments’ and often glancing down to view the large rushing river below.  I think Yvonne could smell civilisation!!  She said ‘it’s because I don’t have to concentrate and the track was smooth and easy to follow.‘

The track was very well maintained and easy to follow again mainly through beech forest.  Saw a couple of friendly black robins, they’re so curious and unafraid of humans and even saw deer grazing in an open grassy area before they quickly disappeared upon hearing our voices.

Transport from Greenstone car park to Glenorchy and Queenstown

If you haven’t organised transport from here it can be a mission and because we hadn’t had cell phone coverage for many days, we hadn’t organised any transport.  But, as we’re learning, things often work out.

We arrived at the carpark about 10.30 am only to find another couple had ordered a shuttle ride and had spare seats to Glenorchy.  So, Yvonne, Dean and I got a ride in a 4-wheel drive vehicle (with a trailer for packs) which was driven very fast along a narrow windy metal road, breaking suddenly when meeting an on-coming vehicle.  Thank goodness I wasn’t sitting in the front seat.

We were dropped off at Glenorchy as the next shuttle to Queenstown was 3 pm.  We spent a few delightful hours chilly out, reminiscing the last few days, enjoying a flat white coffee and savouring each mouthful of a thickly buttered cheese scone.   Later to be joined by Jodi and Ruby with more laughter and reminiscing taking place.

In Queenstown we booked into the Adventurers Queenstown Hostel.  This is a very friendly, clean and well-equipped hostel.  The showers and toilets were modern and the staff friendly. Our dirty clothes were washed and dried within the hour for a small fee.  Yvonne and I had the room to ourselves which was appreciated.

We enjoyed a Sunday roast dinner with Robert and Allan at The Pig and Whistle which was delicious, just a tad better than the freeze-dry meals we have been eating.  As I hardly ever eat out at home it’s been interesting to experience these ‘Sunday roast’ meals – really good value.  Then home to bed.

Unsettling times and emotional challenges

With the guys leaving the trail it has unsettled me, not sure why?  I think knowing they are somewhere on the trail gives us a sense of security, and now we won’t have that.  Another little voice says to me ‘but you’ll meet other people on the trail.‘

As the weather forecast is not looking great for the next few days, it’s forced us to re-think our next stage.  This part of the trail has 26 river crossings and some high climbs so we have decided for safety reasons we will join the trail again in Wanaka, where hopefully Jodi and her friend may also join us.

When we decide to miss a section out for whatever reason, I feel like I’m dodging the tough stuff, feeling pathetic and cowardly and I’m struggling with these feelings.  I guess this experience/journey is highlighting my weaknesses and forcing me to come to terms with my inadequacies, which I have always known are there but in many everyday situations you can easily sweep them away – so to speak.  The river crossing experiences from the other day have left me feeling extra cautious and exposed additional inadequacies!!

I guess these emotional challenges are all part of a long journey?  My inner voice is saying to me ‘deal with them Heather and get on with the next stage.’  I would love to read/hear about your coping strategies with your inadequacies – what do you do?

As I complete this post I can smell the roast lamb dinner cooking – sure gets the digestive juices going!! We’re having dinner with Les, Carol and their son Blair, Anna (Blair’s wife) and their children.  Their children are delightful and a pleasure to be around and appreciate all the different personalities the children have.

That is until next time – not sure when or where that will be.  In the meantime, take care out there and thank you again for your feedback and comments.  It’s now raining outside which was expected and that partly justifies our decisions.  GoldCard Gal  🙂

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