GoldCard Gal

Jobs fill your pockets, but adventures fill your soul!

Hiking

Te Araroa Trail – One Step at a Time – Part 1

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It is 2.30 pm on Monday, 3rd January 2022. Yvonne and I are seated around a small wooden table, sipping a cold ginger beer, with a cool ocean breeze blowing on our backs, shaded by a black and white umbrella outside Dock Side Bar (Wellington harbour waterfront).  Our ferry crossing isn’t until 8.30 pm this evening  – so a little time to fill-in, what better way than to start a post.

As we walked to catch the bus from the Wellington airport to train station this morning, I asked Yvonne “what are your feelings today?”  her response was “excitement, anticipation, apprehension, fearful.”  Her feelings are very similar to mine – quite a normal response before any major journey I would say.  What would you say?

I thought back to what John (Yvonne’s husband) said on the way to the Hamilton airport this morning:

“You really start living when you are out of your comfort zone.”

John having been a pilot (top dressing pilot in earlier days) no doubt had many “out of comfort zone” experiences. That quote resonated with me and a good reason to embrace the journey ahead hence the title “One step at a time”. As this is the only thing I feel I can have control over that is besides my mental state.

Thank you all for your kind and encouraging words in texts and emails. Thank you Sue for your banner, it made us feel special – bit of celebrity status if you get the gist!  By the number of recent subscriptions to my blog – the pressure is on to both physically perform and write enjoyable blogs!

Start of journey

As you know a journey starts months and sometimes years before it comes to fruition.  Reading other people’s stories and adventures always inspires me and gets the mind and imagination stimulated.  I can partly blame my cycling friend Sari for me getting back into hiking.  Last year Sari and I hiked the Timber Trail and while I had dreadful sore feet (mechanical issues) – no blisters, I realised I too can do longer hikes.  It also ignited a spark in my mind for more hiking like adventures.  Being away from ‘from it all’ with everything you need on your back gives me a deep sense of satisfaction and contentment, something I strive to experience more and more on my world.  What brings you that sense of contentment?

I have spent hours preparing my body and mind for this journey – giving it my best shot.  Went on a map reading course (twice), have given dehydrating food a go, will let you know whether that has been successful or not later. Experimented with different types of footwear, ended up needing orthotics which have proved to be a success.  Updated my sleeping system which now weights 1.7 kgs.   The list goes on, but all I can say and do now it to approach this “long walk” with positively, flexibility and be “in the moment” (bite of cliché) and embrace “the out of comfort zone” moments.

Below is a view of my basics, which comes to 8.125 kgs.  No food, water or pack weight included. Never in my life have I worn the same clothes for weeks on end, I will not be making any fashion statements.

Thank you Winston Peters

Neither Yvonne nor I have a need to travel much on local public transport so today catching the bus into the city was an interesting experience.  Fortunately for us the bus driver was young, very helpful and understanding of two old gals with packs on.  We had completely forgotten that because we are Goldcard holders we didn’t need to pay, that was after much conversing.  As I made my way down the aisle and sat down at on a vacant seat, another older person said “you two are Goldcard holders aren’t you, of course you travel for free.”  It was said in such a tone that – everyone knows that sort of thing.  So, thank you Winston for this little piece of legislation.

Storing backpacks

Thank you for Waterloo Backpackers for providing the facility to store our packs safely until we needed to catch the ferry.  That was another incident that the poor male receptionist must have thought “what have we got here???”  But what we’re finding is interesting how “patient and polite” these young people have been towards us. Silver hair and age has some real positives!!

Tomorrow morning, we are looking forward to catching up with my old cycling mate Sari. She will be meeting up with us later in the Richmond Range area and bringing in some of my home made dehydrated food along with some other goodies.  And catching up with my brother Ben and sister-in-law Fran for coffee and a chin wag.

In the afternoon at 1.30 pm we catch the water taxi to Ship Cover, start of Queen Charlotte track.  I know many of you have either cycled or walked it, but for Yvonne and me it’s a first.  So, it is the beginning of our “long walk – with one step at a time.”

Till next time, enjoy this wonderful summer weather and make the most of each day.  Take care – GoldCard Gal 😊

PS.  I must remember to take more photographs!

Wellington waterfront

Hiking The Lake Tarawera Trail

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Yippee, Hamilton finally in level two.  Cannot wait to get outdoors and explore our wilderness and at the same time do a ‘shake down’ of our gear in preparation for our “long walk” planned to start 4th January, 2022.

Some weeks earlier Yvonne (my tramping buddy) suggested we hike The Tarawera Trail to Hot Water Beach which is on the shores of Lake Tarawera.  Stay the night in the DOC campground and return the next day.

Some years ago in the middle of winter, with low cloud, and intermittent cold rain a few of my friends and I had hiked this trail with high anticipation of having a hot water soak in the lake at the end.  That adventure is another story, enough to say we didn’t get our hot water soak instead we ended up with the soles or our feet scorched and chilled to the bone.

What I’ve come to realise over the years is what makes a trip, experience or adventure memorable.  It is when things don’t go as planned or you experience some difficulty or inconvenience – those are the times you remember.  What are your most memorable experiences or adventures where things didn’t go as planned?

Lake Tarawera Trail map

This shakedown hike was about us testing our newly acquired tents, pack arrangement, sleeping system and cooking setup.  Along with accessing our level of fitness, and enabling us the space and time together to chat about a variety of topics before our long walk.

Starting at Te Wairoa

The day dawned with a clear blue sky, little wind and two days of predicted fine weather.  John (Yvonne’s husband) dropped us off at the Te Wairoa carpark, the start of the trail. That was after we had had a coffee at one of the local mountain bike parks where Yvonne informed me she trains. All I could see were hills and more hills, my heart sank as my training ground is mostly flat!

The carpark was full of activity with a large group of older people from the Shoe String Tramping Group, Tauranga.  They were busy tying up boot laces, loading on their day packs and making last minute toilet stops before heading off along the trail to the hot water pool (12 kms away).  After a soak, they were then catching the Water Taxi back to The Landing, Lake Tarawera.   This taxi service is also available to and from Hot Water Beach campground, but not one Yvonne and I would be using on this occasion.

The Trail

We hauled on our Aarn packs, had our photo taken and said goodbye to John.   We both were keen to get moving.

The first part of the track was in the open and then gradually you enter the mainly manuka and kanuka bush, which was welcome as the day was hot with a clear blue sky.  The track is well defined and easy to follow, initially quite overgrown.   It follows the contour of the lake, with plenty of ups and downs.  You are often rewarded with glimpses of the clear blue lake below through the bush.

Glimpse of Lake Tarawera and Mt Tarawera in the background

Our first stop was at Hawaiki Bay which has a toilet, picnic table and an opportunity to swim if you wish.  We enjoyed a short rest, and ate some trail mix.  We did stop here on our return journey for lunch and a swim to cool off.  It was my first sighting of Mt Tarawera in the distance.

Hawaiki Bay – Late Tarawera Trail

Our next destination was at the 12 km mark, taking a left turn down a side track to the hot pool.  We soon had our packs and boots off, and were tentatively stepping into the hot water.  To sit down and let the body relax was very soothing.  The thought did cross my mind that if the weather was much colder this experience would be even better.  We enjoyed the company and conversation of fellow pool sitters all of whom had come in by boat and then walked the short distance to this hot pool.  This is an option if you don’t want to walk the 12 kms.

Hot Pool at 12 km mark on The Tarawera Trail

Feeling refreshed we headed off – only another 4 kms to the camping ground. Before we started the last climb, we were confronted with this sign, which seemed quite extreme!  Not near as bad as you may have expected – from my perspective!

Te Rātā Bay – Hot Water Beach Camp Ground

It is always rewarding to get to your destination. It was hot and the first thing we did was off-load our packs, remove our boots, and walk straight into the clear water to cool off – instantly the sweat and dust were washed away and I felt invigorated.  The water was warm on top and cool underneath but very refreshing.

We didn’t swim where the steam rises from the lake as the ground can be very very hot!

It wasn’t long before we had boiled our billy for that welcome cup-of-tea and enjoyed some squashed fruit cake which I’d carried in –  delicious.   While we sat on the wooden park bench enjoying our cuppa and admiring the views, we got chatting to a couple who had kayaked in and were spending a few days kayaking around the lake.  They had an amazing setup, gear everywhere – mind you they didn’t have to carry their gear.

You have to book a campsite at the DOC campground.  It has approximately 30 campsites, 4 long-drop toilets and a shelter where you can cook and eat your food. No running water as there is an unlimited supply a few meters away.

We soon had our tents erected, gear sorted and started to enjoy a variety of conversations with other campers.  Shame we didn’t have a bottle of wine to savour and share, but that didn’t stop us from enjoying the moments.

Our camp site – Hot Water Beach, Lake Tarawera.  Short walk to lake edge and toilets.

Joys of camping

One of the many experiences I love about hiking and staying in a tent is you always go to bed early.  My excuse is ‘resting’ enables the body to recover from the day’s physical activity.   I had a good book I wanted to finish reading.  So, crawled into my tent, zipped down the tent opening, wriggled into my sleeping bag, turned on my head torch and read until I finished the book.

The campground was relatively quiet even though there were many families with young children also enjoying the natural surroundings.

The return journey

Thankfully Yvonne and I are similar in that we both like early morning starts.  We had enjoyed two hot drinks, eaten our muesli and packed our packs by 7.30 am when we headed back the way we had hiked the previous day.  It always amazes me how different the trail appears on a return trip.   You get such a different perspective of your surrounds – it’s a bit like walking a new trail.

After removing our packs and boots, we enjoyed another swim at Hawaiki Bay.  Then enjoyed our lunch and had a short power nap.  While resting I pondered the idea of whether this may be our routine on our long walk?

While eating our lunch Yvonne texted her husband to meet us around 2pm but it never displayed the fact that the text had actually been sent.  So, we were mentally preparing for a road walk until John received her message.  Fortunately for us, who should we see standing on a bridge observing the stream below, but John.  He was a welcome sight.  He’d also had a busy weekend playing tennis.

A great weekend was had by all.  Thank you Yvonne for your thoughts, conversations, company, and energy.

Reflections

  • Meet lots of interesting people
  • Most enjoyable adventure
  • Fabulous weather
  • Gear worked as expected
  • Good level of fitness
  • Feet and body good
  • Excellent company
  • Successful 2 days
  • Do it again?  Yes definitely and would highly recommend it, even if you get a water taxi one way or both ways.

Lake Tarawera Trail Scenes

As we left camp, this was our morning scene – just beautiful
Yvonne enjoying the views
Good signage along the trail

What is next?

Yvonne and I start our long walk (Te Araroa Trail, South Island) on afternoon of 4 January, 2022 when we will be dropped off by water taxi at Ship Cove, start of Queen Charlotte Track.  Hopefully, I will post updates when I have the energy and if and when cell phone coverage is available.

That is it until sometime in January, 2022.  Have a great Christmas and New Year!  Take care out there – Goldcard Gal 🙂

The Pinnacles – Kauaeranga Valley

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Yvonne (my hiking companion) recently mentioned she had never been to The Pinnacles in the Kauaeranga Valley.  That immediately prompted an excuse to plan another adventure.   It had been many years since I had last visited The Pinnacles and from my memories, it was a “beautiful easy walk” and one that needed to be revisited.

As I was carefully placing my feet on the uneven, rocky track and using my walking poles to assist me up the high steps it occurred to me, “how interesting it is what you remember” particularly about previous experiences or events.  I remembered the steps but had completely forgotten about how many, how high, and the constant concentration required to negotiate this track without twisting an ankle or something similar.

As I hauled on my pack onto my back, I could hear bouts of laughter and lots of joking from my fellow hikers – I knew this adventure was going to be fun!  Sharing this adventure with Yvonne and me was Brenda (Hamilton), Patricia and Hugh (also from Hamilton, whom I had hiked this trail with a few years back), and their friends Mel and Lindsay (from Auckland).  All of whom are an inspiration because of their age, level of fitness, agility, and living life to the fill.

The Team

The walk

This popular three-hour hike to the Pinnacles hut follows the historic packhorse route created and used by kauri bushmen, gum diggers, and gold miners in the early 1900 – 1920s to carry supplies.

The track meanders through pungas, nikau palms, regenerating bush, over two recently upgraded swing bridges, and across low flowing streams.  These streams would have once had huge torrents of water and logs rushing through when the kauri dams upstream were released.

The quails

As we wandered along the trail, we saw a family of quails fossicking around the forest floor undeterred by us gawking at them!  You got the feeling they were used to hikers wandering through their domain and gazing at them.

We found a pleasant spot for lunch surrounded by bush and down to our left see and hear a slow flowing stream.  Food stops are always enjoyable and, a plain and dull honey and cheese sandwich always seems to taste so much better when outdoors exercising and enjoying the environment.

It is surprising how quickly time passes, particularly when everyone is either involved in or listening to a conversation.  The topics were many and varied and one can learn a lot from listening.

About an hour after a short break at Hydro Camp (an area where you can camp) we saw across the small valley smoke rising from the hut chimney.   It was a welcome sight to see as the temperature had dropped, a low cloud surrounded us, and it was about to rain any time soon.

The Pinnacles Hut

Lester the hut warden welcomed us and outlined the important bits of information and rules like being out of the hut by 9 am!  We were informed we could only use one bunk room (there are two) because the hut only had a small number of bookings, and everyone had to share the same bunk room.  Lester even went as far as to tell us which bunks to use!! Oh, my goodness I did feel we were being treated as children who cannot make up their own minds about where to sleep!!  Never mind, once we had selected our beds it was not long before we had our packs unpacked;  sleeping bags unrolled, and laid out on the plastic-covered foam rubber mattresses and food bags retrieved.  While all this was happening, Hugh had been into the kitchen/dining area and got the kettle boiling, thanks to a good supply of tap water and gas cookers in the hut. Time for replenishment and relaxation.

The fire had warmed the dining area up and with no cell phone coverage people were not distracted, so a very pleasant afternoon and evening were had.  These hut evenings are always special and interesting because of the people you meet, the camaraderie shared, and stories that are remembered and shared.

We were fascinated by the lateness of other younger hikers arriving at the hut, near in darkness.   We thought they may be part of the younger generation where you “tick off Lonely Planet must-dos” and seeing the sunrise on top of The Pinnacles is a must-do.  Also, quite staggered at the amount of bottled alcohol these young people carried up and then proceeded to drink.  Times like these really show our age differences and guess physically.

Watching the sunrise

The next morning, we were woken early as all the younger people were off to climb to the top of the Pinnacles to watch the sunrise.  It is an approximately 50-minute walk to the top and involves steps, ladders, and rock climbing.  I think our little group had individually decided we had seen enough sunrises in our lifetime and happy to walk up after breakfast and take in the views.

The reward of the climb is a panoramic view of the Coromandel Peninsula to the north, to the east Pauanui, Tairua, Shoe Island, and the Alderman Islands northeast. The view to the west and south was limited because of the low cloud. It was well worth the effort and a must-do – very satisfying. 😊

Yvonne, GoldCard Gal & Brenda at top of Pinnacles
Mel and Lindsay watching Hugh pull Patricia up the rock face – she has short beautiful legs!

On our return to the hut, we veered right and visited the Dancing Camp Dam which is the location of a historic kauri driving dam constructed in 1924.  Close by are four beautiful flat tent sites which can be booked, having toilets close by and a tap with running water.  An ideal spot in the summer as the sites are surrounded by bush and a stream close by.

Before loading up and heading back down the track to the car park we boiled the billy (kitchen closed) for a well-deserved coffee and bit to eat.  Lester (the hut warden) was keen to hear about everyone’s previous lives and was taken aback by careers, and ages – he was impressed and no doubt gave him something to tell other hikers who come to stay in the hut!

An alternate route back to the car park is via the Billygoat Track.  We had been advised not to take this track due to poor track maintenance.

I was not looking forward to the return walk, all those downhill steps – aargh!!  Again, I was thankful for my walking poles, as they reduced the downward pressure on my knees and no soreness or stiffness was experienced. Yippee.

We did pass a couple of groups of people with large packs heading up to the hut.  Secretly thankful we were going downhill as opposed to going up.

Yvonne and Brenda walking downhill

All in all, it was a great 36 hrs away.  Thank you, Yvonne, Brenda, Patricia, Hugh, Mel and Lindsay, for your company, humour, and companionship – most enjoyable.  Let us do another adventure soon.

If you have hiked this trail, I would love to hear your story and memories of it.

Till next time, GoldCard Gal.

Reaching the Pinnacles Hut in a wheelchair

Here is an interesting article about Wesley Pigg who recently reached the Pinnacles Hut in a wheelchair along with the help of eight fit and strong friends.

Something to think about from Wesley’s story:

“I’ve always had a quiet confidence that we can achieve more than we think we’re capable of, that most of the time we don’t do things because of barriers that exist in our minds more than anything. It’s emboldened me to think about what I do next.”

https://www.wildernessmag.co.nz/an-historic-wheelchair-tramp-to-pinnacles-hut/

Track info

  • This walk can be completed in one day or stay the night in the hut and make it a two-day adventure.
  • You must book as this hut is extremely popular at the weekends. It is closed between 9 am – 2 pm.
  • The hut has 80 bunk beds, serviced, and has a full-time hut warden.
  • The track is an amalgamation of several tracks and can be broken into stages:
    • Webb Creek Track to Hydro Camp (2 hours one-way)
    • Hydro Camp to Pinnacles Hut (1 hour one-way)
    • Pinnacles Hut to Pinnacles (50 minutes one-way)
  • The track is well defined but does require a good level of fitness to negotiate all the steps.
  • History of the area click on the link.

Additional Photographs

Topographical map of Pinnacles area
Billygoat waterfall

 

Track up to the Pinnacles lookout. Can you see the step ladder?

Is weather localised? Waihohonu Hut adventure

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It’s Tuesday, the rain is pouring down, and my gutters are overflowing.  The forecast for tomorrow is similar but also includes lightning strikes and thunderstorms!  On Wednesday Yvonne (from Rotorua) and I plan to hike from Whakapapa to Waihohonu hut, which is located between MT’s Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu, in the Tongariro National Park, New Zealand.

I send Yvonne the following text:

“Good morning Yvonne, tomorrow’s weather is looking dreadful, you still keen to go?”

A quick reply was soon received “Yes of course, unless it is dangerous.”

Just the response I was looking forward to. I have never been one to put off events because of the “predicted” weather forecast.  I have that philosophy of “wait and see what a new day brings”.

Our hike to Waihohonu hut and back had been organised for some weeks and many scenarios had been imagined and visualised. Additionally, I wanted to also check out the track from Desert Road to Waihohonu hut for when my granddaughters visit and we can share an adventure together.

Yvonne and I meet on a Tuesday evening at Skotel Hotel, Whakapapa.  This was preferred to driving down early in the morning, which makes for a long day.  Before we started our hike on Wednesday I also wanted to check the track conditions and river levels at the Information Centre, considering the forecasted weather!

Wednesday morning dawned fine at least no rain and not a mountain to be seen anywhere.  The cloud was low and thick, but you could see several hundreds of meters across the tussock covered foothills – an encouraging sign.

Once we got the “all clear” from the Information Centre, no raised river levels and track conditions good we hauled our packs on, made minor adjustments to ensure our packs were balanced and hit the track.  We were so keen to get moving we forgot to get any before photos.

Yvonne walking through the beech forest. Tongariro National Park

The walk to Waihohonu Hut is approximately 15.5 kms with an estimated walking time of 5 hr 45 mins.  The first section goes past Taranaki Falls and onto Tama Lakes.  This track is also part of the popular Northern Circuit route and Round the Mountain Circuit.

The track is very well maintained, easy walking with good board walks and plenty of wooden steps to help prevent soil erosion.  The foothills are open tussock and shrubland.   The main river we had to cross was low – we could stone hop with no fear of getting wet feet.  So Ruapehu had not had the rain that was predicted!

The turn-off to Waihohonu hut is approximately 10 minutes before Lower Tama Lake. And includes a strategically placed long-drop toilet, always a good excuse for a rest and something to eat.  Still no sign yet of the predicted rain or lightning strikes!!

I had been told the Waihohou hut was one of the best huts around, gas cookers and even hot water, but no showers.  There was a hut warden in residence until 31 April so we knew we would be in good hands, so to speak.

Waihohonu Hut, Tongariro National Park

Five + hours later we arrived at the hut and were not disappointed.  With our boots and packs off, it wasn’t too long before we were enjoying a hot brew.  Thank goodness for an effective solar water system.

How wrong weather forecasts can be, it was predicted, heavy downpours and lightning, but you know what we didn’t experience either, it was only ever a light drizzle.  But we were prepared for all conditions. Yvonne’s husband (a pilot) told her “weather is very localised” and what we were experiencing totally reinforced that theory.

Feeling refreshed, with backpacks unpacked; bunks chosen and sleeping bags rolled out, it was time to get the fire going.  Thankfully, there was an excellent supply of dry firewood.  Using the broken handled axe, I soon had a variety of split kindling cut and along with odds bits of paper, the fire was ignited.  It soon created a feeling of warmth and comfort.    Meanwhile outside the rain had arrived and it “poured down”.  Such a great feeling being inside and dry.

In the late afternoon, we were joined by two Aucklanders (husband and wife team) and neither of them looked great when they arrived.  By the way they walked – they seem to have knee problems, she was really tired, and both were drenched, having just got caught in a heavy downpour of rain.  The thought crossed my mind “it pays to get on the track early”.

Unfortunately, I don’t know why they decided to share the same bunk room as Yvonne and me??  Here we were hoping we might get to enjoy a quiet night’s sleep!! Guess it was partly because our bunkroom was close to the kitchen and warm fire.

Hut Warden

One of the hut warden’s jobs is to keep hut guests informed of weather conditions, emergency procedures, track conditions, and anything else relevant to hiking the surrounding trails.  Ben was our warden; it was his last night (having been in residence for a week) and Horse (new warden) was arriving the next day.

With just us four occupants and Ben, it was not long before our conversations turned to DOC hut and track maintenance issues: past and present adventures and even politics!  The wife had very strong views and opinions on many topics!!  I soon realised she and I were polar opposites politically, so it was time to bow out and retire to my bunk.

It was a very mixed night of wakefulness and sleep, thankfully I brought my earplugs!! It seemed I spend more time awake than asleep, never mind, I kept telling myself “just relax the mind and body as it is in recovery mode.”

Waihohonu Hut to Desert Road

Thursday dawned like the previous day, with very low cloud and heavy drizzle, but not to be discouraged we set off for the Desert Road 5.7 kms away.  This track travels through/over the Rangipo Desert and we were surrounded by low scrub, flowering heather, and other tussock-like plants.  The track surface is mainly sandy.  It’s a short slightly downhill walk to Desert Road.  We could hear the vehicles before we could see them.

Yes, it will be a great introductory walk for my granddaughters.  NO hills just a gradual climb up to the hut. Highly recommend this hike to any beginners.

The return walk to the hut seemed so much quicker than the walkout.  After a hot cup of soup some much-needed food we spent the afternoon chilling out in the hut reading and relaxing.  We got the fire going early today as it was much colder today, and the hut was going to be full tonight – another 24 people!!

Ohinepango Springs

About 5 pm the cloud had lifted and the drizzle stopped we went and explored the nearby freshwater Ohinepango Springs where we were fortunate enough to see a lone Whio duck (blue duck).  The water is crystal clear and bubbles up from beneath an old lava flow that flows swiftly into the Ohinepango Stream.  It’s a very pleasant walk to and from these Springs.

An interesting evening was spent with the other young trampers.  I’m always interested in what type of food they cook, the gear they carry, as I’m always looking for new ideas or adventures to be had.  Of course, love the diversity of conversations and people!!

The hut was full so every bunk was occupied, and I’d never would have guessed but it was quieter than the previous night with only four people sleeping – what does that tell you – older people snore???

Not sure what time the first people got out of bed to pack up and leave but it was very early.  By 6 am I was wide awake and said to Yvonne, “let’s get up and getting going, we’re all awake and no chance of any more sleep”, so that is what we did.  We had eaten, packed up, and were on the track by 7.30 am, and guess what?

View of Mt Tongariro from Waihohonu Hut

There was ice on the decking, the sky was clear, not a cloud to be seen, Mts Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe were crystal clear and majestic looking, it was magic, – oh how I love that feeling when you experience that total awesomeness of being in that alpine environment.  The stillness, clean pure air, and seeing the sun rising over the distance Kaimanawa Ranges – was quite stunning.  This is what living is about and why I feel so “at peace with myself and the world”.  I would not want to be anywhere else in the world but right here doing exactly what I was doing.  This place and time are magical.

Yvonne and GoldCard Gal ready for the return walk to Whakapapa

Our walk back to Whakapapa seemed to go very quickly, we were “pumping it” so to speak.  Stopping many times to admire the different views of the mountains, inhale the clean pure air, and just embrace the “now”.  We passed many other hikers walking into the Waihohonu hut.

On the way out we took a short detour and visited the old original Waihohonu Hut.  It was built in 1904 and well worth the visit.  See the photograph below.

For our lunch stop, we found a lovely sheltered spot out of the wind looking directly at Mt Ngauruhoe while being soaked in the sun.  A chance to have a ‘power nap”, see below.

Arriving back at Whakapapa and enjoying a cup of coffee, Yvonne and I reflected on our adventure – it was the best.  Thank you, Yvonne, for your companionship and your willingness to join me, you are a gem.  Looking forward to exploring much more of this magical environment with you.

I learned that “weather is very localised” and reinforced my belief about don’t be put off by predicted, “weather forecasts” they may never happen!

My soul and inner being felt completely replenished – life is great, bring on the next adventure.  Till then – GoldCard Gal 😊

Additional scenes

Mt Ruapehu, Tongariro National Park
Mt Ngauruhoe, Tongariro National Park
GoldCard Gal appreciating the colourful shrubbery
GoldCard Gal power napping

Historical Waihohonu Hut – GoldCard Gal
Ohinepango Springs

Hiking the Timber Trail

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On a hike, the days pass with the wind, the sun, the stars; movement is powered by a belly full of food and water, not a noxious tankful of fossil fuels.

On a hike, you’re less a job title and more a human being. A periodic hike not only stretches the limbs, but also reminds us:  Wow, there’s a big old world out there.

– Ken Ilgunas

When Sari arrived at my home earlier than expected, having an adventure together was always going to be on the agenda.  But what type of adventure was the big question? Sari had just spent many days walking a couple of sections of the Te Araroa Trail up in Northland so she was feeling fit and strong.

Would it be a cycling or hiking adventure?  Finally, hiking the Timber Trail got us both excited but I also felt apprehension!!  We both had previously cycled the Timber Trail and had individually thought “we’d like to walk it one day!”

So, it was with trepidation I agreed to do this hike BUT why was I feeling this apprehension? So many questions in my mind. How was I going to carry a full pack for so many days, and what about my feet and knees – how will they cope?? What if this happened or what if that happened?

Timber Trail map thanks to Epic Cycle Adventures

Day 1 – 18 kms

My alarm buzzed loud and clear at 5.30 am. It was with excitement and anticipation I rolled over and turned the noise off.  No dozing this morning and wishing for more sleep – today Sari and I were off to have a five-day adventure hiking the well-known Timber Trail – 84 kms of it.  It was an early start because we had to be at the Bennet Road car park, Ongarue for an 8.30 shuttle to start the trail at Pureora, a 1 hr 30-minute drive away.

It was a beautiful drive (at that time of the day) down to Ongarue, travelling through the rural countryside; seeing the milked dairy cows happily grazing on lush green paddocks and seeing the sunrise in the East.  My mind was also busily mentally checking off my packed gear list.  Realizing it was a bit late if I’d left anything behind but at the same time feeling confident the essentials were packed.

We arrived at the bustling car park on Bennet Road, vehicles and bikes everywhere.  Fortunately for us, we only had to worry that our pack and poles were loaded into the correct vehicle. Our vehicle included a family of four cyclists, and two other female hikers plus us.

There was low cloud and mist hanging around the hills as we were driven to the start of the Timber Trail is via Ongarue – Waimiha Road and State Highway 30.  The countryside was hilly (from a cyclist’s perspective) with many twists and turns.  It’s mainly sheep and beef farming with a scattering of Radiata pine forest blocks.

On arrival at the trail start, it was a hive of activity.  Many cyclists – all ages, shapes, and sizes, and no doubt abilities either having something to eat, checking their bikes, or having a last-minute nervous wee.  The variety of mountain bikes (MTB) brands was as diverse as the riders – we did notice the number of electric MTBs!!

At approximately 10.30 am Sari and I loaded our packs on our backs, made sure our boots were laced securely, hands in pole holders and we were off.  It’s a gratifying feeling when something you have planned and is now actually happening.  To finally be doing this long-anticipated tramp was very exciting.  But in the back of my mind were those nagging questions – “Was it going to be as good as I’d hoped” and “would my body cope with the multi-day adventure?”

GoldCard Gal & Sari.  Loaded and ready to go!

Being surrounded by tall rainforest where 800-year-old rimu and kahikatea trees tower 50 – 60 meters above one felt very small and insignificant.   The only sounds were our feet walking on the forest floor, and occasional bird song.  This is one of my “happy places”, a feeling of “peacefulness and contentment” – enveloped my mental being.  And as to be expected we were often forced to the side of the trail to let cyclists past – some ringing their bells to warn us they were coming up the rear; others very quiet in their approach, obviously thinking we’d heard them and expecting us to move aside.    This expected inconvenience only happened first thing each morning or late afternoon.  Otherwise, we had a place to ourselves – heaven.

Every hour we’d stop to rest for five minutes, have a drink of water, consume some fuel,  and do any running repairs or adjustments; more plaster on the balls of my feet was an early running repair.  (I had recently purchased a new pair of tramping boots and didn’t want any blisters to hinder my journey.)

Strategically placed along the trail are these corrugated iron shelters (below). Chance to take our packs off (oh how light we felt), boil the billy for a well-deserved cup of soup and consume some well-earned crackers, cheese, and salami (we have found this type of food sustains our bodies well).  And of course, rest the feet.

Trail shelters – also home to swallows as we were to find out!

The trail winds its way around the base of Mt Pureroa, the majority of the time walking in the bush and steadily climbing.  We meet four DoC employees working on the track.  They had been “expecting two old women sometime!”  The other two female hikers had informed them of us.  We had a chuckle about being classed as “old” which we are, but it is sometimes hard to accept when other people tell you that!  But not to be put off by that label we had a good laugh, chat and they advised us of some possible camping sites ahead.

We had decided to start looking for possible campsites from about 4 pm onwards.  That would give us enough time to replenish our water supplies, set-up camp, have a welcome hot drink, cook dinner, and into bed before dark.  As to be expected possible campsites were not readily available, because on either side of the trail it was a steep rise upwards or a steep decline downwards, with the forest floor covered in broken logs, pungas, undergrowth, rocks etc.  Finally, a part of the track wide enough to take our tents and any possible cyclists could still ride past was found.  So I set my tent up on the side of the track and Sari found a spot off the track up within the forest itself.

GoldCard Gal’s campsite day 1 (no room for visitors!)

With our tents erected and beds rolled-out, the next important task is boiling the billy for a well-deserved cup-of-tea and shared reflections of the day.

At dusk, we were entertained by what sounded like a mini-orchestra of bird song – what a treat.  From not hearing many birds during the day to hearing it then was very special.  Darkness soon engulfed us and time for bed and sweet dreams.  It was a very cold night and getting out of the tent to go for a wee only happened out of absolute necessity!!

Day 2 – 20 kms

Native clematis

No need for morning electronic alarms in the bush – the bird song does that beautifully, gently waking us up and enabling us to mentally prepare for another day of adventures.  Over the years Sari and I have got our morning routines ‘down-to-pat’ so to speak.  It doesn’t take long to dismantle our tents, pack our bag, boil the billy, eat breakfast, and get on the trail.  Fortunately, we both value the importance of an early start – you never know what may happen during the day and it’s comforting to know mentally you have completed over half of your journey by lunchtime.

Today we were heading to Piropiro campsite– the mid-point of the trail – at 39 kms. Having km signs along the trail helps, you quickly get an idea of the distance you’ve travelled or got to travel.

The trail continued down-hill still surrounded by beautiful natural bush.  Sometimes we chatted, other times we enjoyed the silence and appreciated being where we were, doing what we wanted. Having uninterrupted thinking time improves our mental well-being and gives our minds the freedom to explore and dream.  Additionally having a good companion does enhance these adventures.

As we walked out of the native bush onto a gravel road – we could see the tree-covered hills (as opposed to native bush) – the contrast in colours and textures very noticeable.  We also noticed a number of patches of native clematis, which I have not seen for many years.

Piropiro campsite was a welcome sight.  We had decided to camp here because we were tired and didn’t want to go any further and risk missing out on a good place to pitch our tents.   It is very basic, no-cost, long-drop toilets, running water, scattered partial shelters, and plenty of open spaces to find a secluded spot.  We were in heaven so to speak.  It doesn’t take long before you appreciate the small things like running water, flat smooth ground to pitch your tent and long-drop toilets that are clean and don’t smell!!

We spent an enjoyable evening chatting with the other two hikers (Tanya & Vicki) – which I’d like to add were in a much worse state than Sari and I.  But as per normal after a cuppa and relax it isn’t long before we started to feel ‘normal’ again.

Piropiro Campsite – day 2
I well remembered this sign when I cycled the Timber Trail!

 

 

 

GoldCard Gal enjoying the smooth path and being surrounded by lush native ferns

Day 3 – 27 kms

This morning we woke-up fresh and ready for another day on the trail.  As we walked past the girls’ tent, I could smell coffee brewing, and sure enough, they both were still happily lying in their sleeping bags chatting and waiting for their coffee to brew on their little gas cooker.  We said our farewells and some comments were made about seeing each other somewhere on the trail.

We knew this morning we would be busy on the trail as many cyclists were staying in nearby accommodation:  The Timber Trail Lodge and Camp Epic.  It was important for me to be over the longest and highest suspension bridge on the trail, the Maramataha before the cyclists arrived.  And we made it – just!!  The bridge and views take your breath away.

141m long Maramataha bridge. This is one of eight suspension bridges. (GoldCard Gal prefers not to look down!)

We continued to walk through tawa and tānekaha bush following the old tramway in a generally downhill direction.  This tramway was built by Ellis and Burnand Tramway and in places cuts through sheer rock face shrouded in thick native bush.  We passed many old remnants of the area’s logging past. It was hard to imagine that once there was a thriving logging industry with the necessary accommodation for employees and families because very little remained of this previous industry.

Every corrugated iron shelter we came across had a swallows nest.  While we rested inside the shelter the swallows would fly to the entrance and see us there and fly away again.  They continuously did that and after a while, we got the feeling we should be leaving so they could attend to their eggs.  But before I left one hut I decided to investigate and see what was in the nest and the nest below had two eggs and the photo below shows how cleverly the nest is made.

Swallow nest and eggs. Looking up towards the nest.  Every corrugated iron shelter contained a nest. The nests were beautifully made which required patience and skill.

Day three was our longest and proudest – 27 kms not bad for us!!  Camp 11 as it is identified, had a long-drop toilet, a nearby stream for freshwater, and good camping spots so I thought, but Sari suggested “we will camp in a more sheltered location.” Trying to find a place without blackberry roots on level ground was neigh impossible but one learns to make the most of a less than perfect site!!. As usual, once camp was set up and we had our much-anticipated cuppa – we were feeling pretty pleased with ourselves and our world!  And why wouldn’t we be??

Camp 11 campsite.  Sari in red jacket

Day 4 – 19 kms

We woke to a light drizzle and very little bird song – where had the birds gone?  Today we would be walking out to the end of the trail – our adventure will be ending.  How did I feel about that?

But before the end, there was much history to observe and experience.  The major attraction was the Ongarue Spiral.  How it was built is explained in the interpretational panel below.  It was truly unique, a major engineering spectacle, and included an eerie old dark tunnel. Apparently, it is the only bikeable railway spiral in the world – howz that?

Ongarue Spiral

The last 6 kms of hiking was beside farmland and we were constantly passed by mountain bikers who were completing their own adventure.  Many displayed signs of exhaustion, tiredness, and weariness.    It was a welcome sight to see Epic Cycle Adventures headquarters through the trees and across the Ongarue stream.    We had done it, and a day faster than we had planned and we both felt very proud of ourselves.

Thank you Sari for your company, friendship, and willingness for an adventure.  We do make a great team!

Post trail reflections:

  • I look forward to hiking it again.  If you are keen, please contact me.  🙂
  • My pack contents was right.
  • My body handled the 3.5 days hike much better than I thought.
  • No blisters and no sore shoulders.  Highly recommend Aarn backpack system.

Further information:

  • The DOC Timber Trail brochure
  • Shuttle service:  We used Epic Cycle Adventures and highly recommend them.
  • Drinking water:  Water can be taken from streams along the trail. You may wish to boil, filter or treat it before drinking but we didn’t with no side effects.

Trail signage:

  • Signs:  Green and yellow DOC signs indicate access points, distances between places, and approximate walking times.
  • Trail markers:  The trail is marked with orange directional markers and blue-and-white distance markers, indicating distances from Pureora. When travelling north from
    Ongarue, they count down the kilometres left to travel to Pureora. If you do not see these markers, you are not on the trail!

Accommodation on the trail:

If you have cycled or hiked this trail, I would love to hear your thoughts and experiences.  Till next time – GoldCard Gal 🙂

 

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