We are enjoying Reefton’s hospitality and supporting the local economy. Arrived here Saturday afternoon (10 February) both in need of a rest day. Fortunately rain was predicted and it arrived during the night with major downpours. It was very comforting knowing we didn’t have to pack up wet tents and stuff. Speaking to one of the locals this morning she said they’d not had any decent since last November – they were declared a drought zone – unheard of before.
I’m not sure how best to go about describing our journey and where we travel. Please feel free to let me know your thoughts. Speaking of which, thank you for the comments, it’s fabulous to get feedback. As you all know, this blogging stint is completely new to me – I see it as a learning experience – nothing ventured, nothing gained.
Nelson – Norris Gully (54 kms)
We followed The Great Taste Trail out of Nelson to Norris Gully – just through Spooners Tunnel. This trail is mainly flat, with both paved and unpaved surfaces. It was great being on cycle paths and away from the traffic.
Once again signage was not great so we ended up cycling down a long driveway to ask for help. We got a little more than we bargained! Besides giving us directions Terrence insisted we have a guided tour of their home based business Canine Retreat luxurious accommodation for small dogs. Where happy and relaxing music is played throughout the day and a large dog height TV is available for watching movies when the mood takes. Neither Sari nor I are great dog lovers but we did appreciate the care and attention their “guests” received. As we cycled back down the driveway I said to Sari, “see, you just never know who you will meet, when you ask for directions!”
Our favourite part of the ride was cycling up to and through Spooners Tunnel. Construction of Spooners Tunnel started in 1873 and it was used by trains running between Nelson and Kawatiri up until 1955 when the line was dismantled. It is the longest tunnel open to cyclists in the Southern Hemisphere and an experience not to be missed.
By this time it was early evening, time to look for a camp site. Sari has a knack for finding great camp sites – this one was in Spooners Range Scenic Reserve – beautiful but very noisy during the night with trucks travelling between Nelson and the south.
Norris Gully – Braeburn Track (85 kms)
Fortunately Sari and I are relatively early risers, so we are generally on the road by 7.30 – 8 am or thereabouts. Today heading towards Tapawera. I wonder what adventures we are going to experience today? When following the Tour Aoteraroa cycle trails you spend majority of time (when possible) travelling along unpaved/paved back roads, with little or no traffic. Today we cycled up the Tadmor Valley Road and over the saddle. I’ve become very weary when the word “saddle” is used – generally means ‘steep windy hills’. This saddle was a warm up compared to others we have ridden/walked.
When we hit Highway 6 it was time for lunch and Sari saw this little sidetrack off down beside a small river. What an amazing setting with a small parking area, little wooden table and seats made out of old logs – very well maintained. It wasn’t long before we heard the sound of a big motor bike (Harley) pulling in. The guy was turning his bike around as though to go out again when Sari said to him “please don’t go on account of us”, his reply was “I’m not, I’ve come to maintain this area and other tracks my wife and I have built over the years”. Didn’t get his name but he chatted to us for sometime about his voluntary work creating and maintaining the little tracks in this area. He was super pleased to see us enjoying it. He said one day he found a note from DOC saying “What a great job he was doing, and keep it up”. He and his wife work in Nelson and he loves getting out doors and doing this sort of voluntary work.
We visited Lake Rotoroa; what a stunning lake and the beginning to many popular tramps. Sari had quick dip; we applied plenty of sandfly repellent and soon left to climb the Braeburn Track hoping to find a place to camp for the night. After pushing our bikes majority of 2.5 kms up hill, on a very rough unpaved road – no camp site available. But we did find a fabulous site down the other side beside a clear stream surrounded by beautiful beech trees and hidden from the road. Our constant companions seem to be wasps – particularly in this part of the West Coast. We made the bold decision tonight that we would ride into Murchison for breakfast – only 26 kms away.
Braeburn Track – Maruia Saddle (74 kms)
Oh it felt good to have a quiet night’s sleep!! What a fabulous ride down into Murchison through stunning beech forests and farmland. On the way we found a large piece of yellow ‘closed cell foam’ which had blown off someone’s vehicle. Sari suggested it would make a great cushion for me when sitting on the ground having a rest or eating lunch etc. A quick turn-around soon saw us hacking a rectangle piece for me. What a magic piece of foam that has turned out to be. A must have on any cycling trip or tramp.
The road leading to the Maruia Saddle was mainly unpaved and very quiet, but pretty hot weather wise. Luckily the 7 km climb was in beech forest – a welcome relief from the sun. Gee the beech forests are stunning and to think they wanted to mill beech trees for pulp??
We found a camp site just off the main road, wasn’t exactly quiet but good enough. It’s 8.05 pm and I’m going to bed to read my book. I’ve loved today, unpaved surfaces and hardly any traffic – in quite remote areas – that really feeds my soul. Looking forward to couple of nights in Reefton hopefully in a camping cabin and having a much needed rest. Tomorrow majority of day spent on main road.
Springs Junction – Reefton (75kms)
Rode mainly on highway 65 before turning off towards Reefton over the Rahu Saddle (696 m). Long uphills, slow riding and plenty of sweat! Oh the relief whenever you reach the top of a big climb – knowing the next section will be downhill and this time into Reefton. Head wind for the first time this afternoon – good for the mind and character when one if feeling tired!!
Needing a little break we stopped off and look at the Jack Lovelock memorial. Never heard of the place Crushlington before and certainly didn’t know Jack came from such a tiny district. He won a gold medal in 1500 m at 1936 Olympics and was a mile record holder. He died at the age of 39 in New York. Howz that for a bit of additional information?? 🙂
We found a great little cabin in Reefton camping ground for two nights as it was forecast to rain. After camping out, one appreciates the little things – like warm showers, having clean clothes and being able to boil a jug!
Loved Reefton, the main street was vibrant, beautiful hanging baskets, very friendly people, and a couple of great cafes. Meet six other cyclists staying in the same camp ground – all foreigners doing amazing rides. The French couple (probably early 60’s) had been on and off the road for the last three years covering 26,000 kms+ – amazing.
Looking forward to chilling out and relaxing!! Oh life is pretty good!! Take care out there – GoldCard gal. -)
Susan says
Thoroughly enjoying your blog Heather. Great to hear about places I’ll never get to! Love Susan
GoldCard Gal says
Thanks Susan, how are you?
Carolyn rolley says
Fantastic blog Heather what a wonderful way to enjoy our beautiful country. We enjoyed the off road places too and reefton was great with little displays in the main street. I did not know how young Jack Lovelock was when he died but I do remember dad talking about him. All well here Nic’s training all done just maintainence till big race. Very hot up here storm on the way stay safe love to you both
GoldCard Gal says
Great to hear from you Carly. Glad this blog has brought back some memories and more to come in the next one. Good luck to Nic! Take care