The biggest adventure you can ever take is to live the life of your dreams.”
Returning home via Whakapapa Village
On my return trip to Hamilton (from Levin), I had arranged to stop off at Whakapapa Village (central North Island) and enjoy the trails and beauty that is on offer there. One of my tramping friends Yvonne from Rotorua was happy to join me (at very short notice) to have some adventures. We arranged to stay at Skotel Alpine Resort where both of us had stayed before and have found it clean, convenient and interesting conversations guaranteed with both local and/or international guests. This time we were not disappointed.
On Sunday evening, I arrived at a wet, cold and windy Whakapapa. Not an ideal start to our two days of adventures, but fortunately Yvonne and I are optimistic people. A little bit of rain and wind wasn’t going to deter us!!
As we went to sleep that first night, all we could hear was the wind blowing and rain pelting against the windowpane in our room. Both silently hoping for fine dawn.
Tama Lakes Walk
We awoke on Monday morning to a fine morning which came as a welcome surprise. But as we glanced out our bedroom window Mt Ruapehu was not to be seen, it was covered in low thick dark grey clouds – not a place to visit today, so a walk to Tama Lakes was on.
The communal kitchen was busy with optimistic skiers eating their much-needed breakfasts and preparing their packed lunches no doubt hopeful of some good skiing.
As we ate breakfast and packed our lunch we both expressed happy thoughts that we were not skiers – we didn’t fancy their chances today on the ski fields!! I was later to learn Yvonne hates the snow – no wonder she had no empathy for the skiers’ enthusiasm!
The track
Once we were outside the Skotel we realised how windy and cold it actually was – a windproof jacket and warm hat were going to be essential as a very cold south-westerly gale blowing.
The two Tama Lakes is nestled between Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe in old explosion craters. It’s approximately 17 km return walk on the same track. The track is well-formed and signposted. It has duckboard over the boggy bits and steps up the steep parts. It crosses undulating tussock terrain, you walk through beech forest and the views at the top of ridges are quite stunning. A recent welcome addition has been the installation of two toilets, one located near Taranaki Falls and other close to Waihohonu Hut turn off. We both were very impressed with the artwork on the toilet walls and they didn’t smell – always a bonus. Guess that is due to the good ventilation!!
It felt invigorating to be walking in the clean chilly air, stopping occasionally to catch our breath and admire the views of the countryside below us. It is amazing to see the variety of different colours the landscape displays, many varying shades of green, blue and purple all blending as nature seems to do so well. Being outside in this dramatic environment both Yvonne and I find therapeutic, both mentally and physically.
When we reached the Lower Tama Lake (1,240 metres) which has a surrounding backdrop of Mt Ngauruhoe to the North and behind you Mt Ruapehu we decided not to proceed to Upper Tama Lake due to the wind factor and low cloud moving in. We have visited the Upper Tama Lake before and there is no shelter up there. It is worth the visit though should you decide to walk this track.
We were fortunate to find a partly sheltered spot to eat our well-deserved lunch. Food always tastes better when you have an appetite, it’s cold and you have worked for it. This time I decided to bring a small thermos of hot coffee so I could enjoy my daily fix – it tasted the best and sure gave me my “hit”. (Not that I’m addicted!! – yeh right!)
On our return walk to the Skotel, the time seemed to fly by. We chatted about this and that, easy, simple conversations seemed to flow. The wind was on our backs and the occasional views of Ruapehu (now cleared) were quite spectacular as we walked up and over the ridges.
It was a welcome sight to see our accommodation, my feet had had enough for one day. A hot shower, followed by drinking a hot cup of tomato soup and eating a piece of Vogel’s toast soon had me feeling on top of the world again. We both acknowledged and verbally expressed our gratitude on how well our bodies are serving us – we are lucky. A little ‘power nap’ finished off an excellent day in paradise – my soul was replenished and I was in my happy zone.
Yvonne walking through beech forest
GoldCard Gal heading back to Skotel. Mt Ruapehu in background.
Getting there
The track is near Whakapapa Village on SH48. Start on the Taranaki Falls Walking Track, 100m below the Tongariro National Park Visitor Centre on Ngauruhoe Place.
DOC’s recommendations – Need to know before you go
The Tama Lakes walk is an alpine environment with rapidly changing weather conditions at all times of the year. The Tama Saddle acts as a funnel for prevailing westerly winds. Windproof clothing is recommended.
Walks around Whakapapa Village
If you have spent time at Whakapapa Village what are our favourite walks or even better, what are your favourite tramps on Mt Ruapehu? I am always looking for new adventures and love being in the alpine environment.
As we went to bed, a clear fine day was forecasted for our next day of adventures – can’t wait. GoldCard Gal 🙂
Heather that was soo descriptive! I was able to walk each step with you. Really made me feel I wanted to get back there as quickly as I could.
Well done. Your writing is easy to read.
Thank you Denise. Yes it is a magical place. 🙂