Ruatahuna – like NZ was 30 years ago?

Last Friday dawned wet and cold with very low clouds cloaking the surrounding ranges.  With a couple of rest days our bodies were refreshed, and we were keen to be back on the road.  With bikes loaded, and us dressed in our wet weather gear we cycled out of the Lake Waikaremoana Holiday Park not knowing what lay ahead – always the fun bit!!

The bush was looking fresh, clean, and had that familiar smell about it. All the dust from the previous days had been washed off the leaves and branches – the atmosphere was magical.  The road followed the edge of the lake which you’d often get a glimpse of, realising just how big the lake was. We were blessed with pot holes that could be easily avoided, very little considerate traffic, gentle climbs and descents until the last big descent into Rautahuna – 14 km downhill.  With rain jackets zipped up we zapped down into Rautahuna, stopping often to flex our hands to get some feeling back into our fingers – it was cold.  It was hard to believe we had climbed so high to have such a long descent.  (For the record, Sari zapped down, I’m a very cautious, slow down-hill rider.)

We’d heard a lot about Rautahuna and couldn’t wait to see this very small town with its new building (designed by the same architect as the Lake Waikaremoana building), including tribal office, store, café and chalets for accommodation. This development has been possible because of the Treaty of Waitangi settlement in 2014.  Included in the settlement was the disestablishment of Urewera National Park and the administration of the land passed to the Te Urewera Board, which comprises of Tuhoe and crown representatives.  The Treaty settlement seems to have had a positive impact on many of the people we meet.  Many of them who’ve been born in Te Urewera are still living there, and some while born there, went away and now returning after 35 years away (barrista in Mou Mou Cafe).  One man called Pou is back living in the same house he was born in, and his grand-daughter has recently been born in the same house!.  He was a gardener at Rautahuna along with Hone.  Both of these men are very proud of their heritage and seemed to enjoy having a chat to a couple of outsiders.  Pou was once in the territorials (part time soldier like myself) so we had some interesting conversations of past adventures.

Mou Mou Cafe

Doesn’t food taste great when you are cold and wet?  I never normally eat mince pies but seeing them in the heated food cabinet was too much to resist along with a delicious piece of carrot cake and two large flat whites.  The prices were very cheap yet the food was as good as anywhere.  Included in the Cafe space was the local store; shelves stacked with everyday food at very reasonable prices for the locals.

As we cycled these delightful back roads, you get the impression that not much has changed in the last 30 years.  Horses, fouls and occasional cattle happily grazed on the side of the gravel road, not moving or lifting their heads as we rode past. In a couple of weeks, the blackberries will be ripe for picking, unfortunately, they were still a little tart.

Whirianki Conservation Park

One of Sari’s hopes had been to ride the Moerangi Track located in the Whirianki Conservation Park.  As we were descending one of the many hills, we meet a couple who were riding to the Moerangi Track.  They were very helpful in suggesting how to incorporate the track as part of our adventure.  (She had an electric MTB he was riding a normal MTB.)  As a result of our conversation we had a short day’s ride and stayed in Whirinake Forest Accommodation on Minginui Road. Garry (owner)  also offered a shuttle service to the from the Moerangi Track and suggested we might like to explore some easy trails just up the road, which we did.

You never know what’s around the corner

I soon came unstuck on the mountain bike trail (insufficient MTB skills) and decided to leave Sari to explore the trail and I’d walk and enjoy the original bush and other walking tracks.  Just as well I did.  As I was hauling my bike over a fallen tree, I saw this man on a 3 wheeler bike (in a recumbent position), stuck, he couldn’t go forward or backwards because of the fallen tree.  Graham was his name and he’d had a stroke four years ago.  He had his right leg strapped into a harness and his left leg doing most of the peddle turning.  He said he couldn’t support himself standing, so with much pushing forwards and then backwards, along with me manually picking up his back wheel and moving it sideways bit by bit, we got him turned around.  Oh the relief on both of our faces when he was safely cycling back the way he’d come.  He and his family were staying at a camp ground down the road and he thought he’d have a little outing in the beautiful bush. (Who knows how long he would have been out in the bush if I hadn’t come along as there was no other person around.)  This little event highlighted for me, how you never know what is going to happen around the next corner, but to keep moving whatever decision you decide to make.

Because of my lack of mountain bike skills Sari and I decided that the next day she’d enjoy the Moerangi Track on her own (she has a PLB) and I’d cycle into Murupara and explore that small town. She would ride in on Monday to join me.

Murupara booked out!

It was a delightful ride to Murupara (on sealed road) but arriving at Murupara was a bit of a shock.  I guess any small town on Sunday morning at 9.15 am is quiet.  My De Café Murupara was closed ☹, the camp ground office was closed, so only option was to check out the town centre.  What a depressing place, so many empty shops. Did notice the new ATM machine!! (A few months back the only ATM was stolen!!) Luckily the 4 Square Supermarket and Bake House Bakery were open.  One of the things I’ve learnt on this trip is to always talk to the locals, they’ll provide you with the in’s and outs of their town.  Murupara was booked out, there was a conference on in town, so very limited accommodation options.

Finally I meet Melody & Edward (owners) of The Murupara Motor Camp. They were friendly, hospitable and went out of their way to help me.  They had recently taken over the management of the camping ground, plus they manage the Recycle Centre and their daughters own and manage De Café Murupara.  It was interesting that the majority of the units contained permanent residents, partly because of housing shortage.  I was fortunate Melody have a spare permanent unit available for two nights.  When I arrived I had felt vulnerable and reluctant to put my tent up in the grounds, as there was no other campers.  We were later told that random people just walk through the camp grounds at night time; so pleased I went with my gut feelings.  When Sari arrived we spent a day “blobbing out”, reading and chatting with our neighbours.

Murupara to Taupo

Tuesday we left bright and early for Taupo riding through the Kaingaroa Forest (it is huge).  Edward had told us there was a big steep hill heading out of Murupara – not something you like to hear first up.  As we’ve come to learn people have different perspectives on what are ‘big hills’ and ”gravel road surfaces’ etc etc.  Luckily for us the hill was long (18 kms) but not steep.

Onto State Highway 5, it was busy with trucks and cars racing past us – welcome back to the real world!!  🙁

The Bridge (The Secret Spot, aka HotnCold)

Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Park is a true tourist attraction, tourists everywhere – another reality check!  It park contains a Geyser, mud pools, and geothermal park, along with a ‘hotncold’ stream (Waiotapu Stream).  If you haven’t visited the stream, put it on your list of “must-do’s”.

This place was very special, so soothing and relaxing.  While chilling out it enabled us to chat to a couple of young Hungarian tourists (working in London), and hear about their adventures in New Zealand and their working lives in London – always interesting.

After drying off and changing back into our cycle clothes it was pretty hard getting back on our bikes and peddling off towards Taupo – but sometimes you just gotta do, what you gotta do. The promise of a mouth-watering tip-top ice-cream at Reporoa did wonders for the mind and body.

Sari’s friend Marie picked us up just outside Taupo which was very welcome.  Sari and I had been discussing the possibility of us splitting here in Taupo; her heading south and me heading north.  But before that decision we needed a cup-of-tea, shower and some food!

The final chapter in a few days!  Keep safe out there – Goldcard Gal 🙂

Map: Lake Waikaremoana – Taupo