Part 7 – Canterbury

Another adventure and section completed – the Two Thumb Range which is a range of mountains in South Canterbury, lying east of Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.  We walked approximately 47 kms involving three nights, two days with short walks and two full day walks.

Thank you for your comments and feedback.  It’s a pleasure to be able to share our adventures and some of the scenes we see.  We all feel very privileged to be walking these remote parts of New Zealand.

Days 30 – 33

Three days spent in Tekapo waiting for a weather system to pass so we could safely climb the highest pass on the Te Araroa Trail – Stag Saddle 1925 meters was another excellent decision.

Day 34

Round Hill Ski Area to Camp Stream Hut – 8 kms

20 February 2022

An early start today as we had a lift to Round Hill Ski Area about 26 kms up the eastern side of Lake Tekapo to the start of our walk.  Annie and Chris from Bespoke Bike Tours were delivering us.  They have been most helpful in the information and services they have provided.  Highly recommend their services.

Waiting for our lift I quickly ordered my last flat white (for 4 days) from The Greedy Cow.  This was an excellent café offering the best coffee I’ve had on this trip (when sitting within the café) and delicious food reasonably priced.  The staff are a mixture of Japanese, South Korean, Taiwanese and Malaysian.

Worth the wait

Our decision to wait until the weather system passed was justified this morning.  As we made our way up and around Round Hill Ski Field the cloud slowly lifted.  We were being treated to a slow exposure of the surrounding landscape – to the east the Richmond Ranges which leads into Two Thumb Range and to the west across Lake Tekapo to Hail Ranges  This slow cloud lifting enabled us to see more and more of the majestic landscape.  It was very special.

Today’s walk to Camp Stream Hut was short, only eight kilometers.  It sleeps six people and made of corrugated iron with a large pot- belly type of fireplace.  There is plenty of firewood stacked outside for those cold evenings.  This hut was initially built for musterer’s in 1898.  It is now maintained by the Mackenzie Alpine Trust and walkers are asked to donate $10 per night.  It was sad to read that less than 30% of hut fees are paid by hut attendants.  We are slowly learning that there are all types of Te Araroa walkers, some who dodge every opportunity not to pay their way.  Apparently, many of the overseas walkers are even worse.  Guess “there is always the few that spoil it for everyone?”

It’s been a relaxing afternoon lying around in the sun – just chilling out, chatting and/or reading.  In a sense these relaxing afternoons are treasured because we don’t often get to them.  Tomorrow will be a big day for us.

Young Emma (the young 17 yr old from Cambridge) turned up later this afternoon bright and breezy after her 34 km walk.  She is a machine!!  She will be staying at the same camp sites as us along this section as we are carpooling together at the end out to Geraldine.

Camp Stream Hut – Royal Hut – 14 kms

Day 34

20 February 2022

Having a dreadful night’s sleep and waking up with an upset stomach is not the ideal way to start the highest climb of the Te Araroa.  I just knew it was going to be “one of those days!!”  Thankfully the sky was perfectly clear and little to no wind could be felt.

Two options for today

There are two options for the climb to Stag Saddle: one is to follow the Te Araroa route, the other is along a ridge line that offers great views and is a longer gentler climb of approximately 10 kms.  We choose the second option.

This track followed a tussocky covered ridge line, onto scree sidles, and then hopping over large craggy, weathered rocks to the summit of Stag Saddle.  This route promised the best views and it sure didn’t disappoint.

Today we had plenty of rest stops for me and photo snaps for everyone else.  ‘Sherpa Jane’ took some of the heavier items out of my pack which enabled me to keep a better pace and not suffer quite so badly with my breathing!!  Not sure what is happening there – bit of a worry!

As we neared the final ridge, we could see four tiny figures at the top of the saddle, and sure enough one of them was Emma.  She had waited for us.  Everyone enjoyed a well-deserved lunch together along with plenty of posing for photographs.  It was truly a stunning place to be on such a perfect day weather wise – how lucky are we?

As we walked in yesterday, we met one guy who had walked over the top and couldn’t see a thing, he said “it was freezing cold and wet.”  We later pondered why so many young people seem to not care about the views and/or environment they’re currently in, just interested in knocking off the kilometers.  They miss out on so much, but, guess that is an “age” thing.  What do you think?

Then it was five kilometers down to Royal Hut.  The hut is so named because both Prince Charles and Princess Anne visited this hut (by helicopter) as young adults in 1971.  Apparently they had a cup of tea and flew out again.

On the descent to Royal Hut we had to do many stream crossings and finally Jodi and Jane found a suitable spot for a skinny dip!  Yvonne and I continued walking onto the hut. I just wanted to take my pack and wet shoes off and have a lie down.

It was a large hut which slept eight people.  It contained a large wooden dining table and one long wooden seat.  A stainless-steel section for cooking on, and an open fireplace. It was a full hut tonight with Jane and Jodi choosing to sleep outside in their tent.  Interestingly most people in the hut were doing the same walk as us, but in an opposite direction, hence going SOBO (southbound) but all doing sections, as opposed to either full NOBO or full SOBO.

Thank you girls for your patience and support today – you were great!!

Day 35

Royal Hut – Somewhere along Forest Creek – 22 kms

The route today is an alternative route to the one suggested in the Te Araroa notes.  From Royal Hut, over Bullock Bow Saddle (1682 m) and then down to Forest Creek, a walk along the Forest Creek river bed to Rangitata Gorge Road to be picked up by shuttle and taken to Geraldine.

After a great night’s sleep, I did feel much better, but not good enough to eat any breakfast- my usual cask iron stomach not feeling right!

Yvonne and I headed out first, keen to get some distance on the girls before they caught up to us on the only major climb today.  It was another stunning day in paradise, walking through tussock until we started to climb along the “four-wheel drive track” if you could call it that.

Views today magnificent again.  It’s been a highlight for us to just stop and take in the views, inhale the environment, and acknowledge how lucky and fortunate we are to be able to experience these special places.  It makes all the hard work “worth-while”.

Forest Creek Riverbed

We had a couple of steep slow descents, which none of us love but gotta do.  After our final descent who should we find waiting for us on the exposed river bed rocks but Emma.  She was going to walk /guide us down the Forest Creek riverbed this afternoon.

Today the stream itself was narrow, you could see the bottom, but it flowed swiftly.  The actual riverbed must have been 100m or wider with rocks and gravel of various shapes and size.  To see the riverbed in flood would be quite terrifying, and we were very relieved that today wasn’t one of those days.

Emma led the way down the riverbed with us following in a spread-out fashion – me being tail end Charlie.  We learnt more about river crossings as we had many to make.

Our destination for the night was a about 3kms from road end – where we camped on the rocky ground amongst the matagouri – see image below.

We could see the clouds coming in over the ranges and it wasn’t long before it was raining.  Thank goodness we had our tents erected and had eaten.  Everyone was in bed early.

Walk to meet shuttle on Rangitata Gorge Road

As we only had a couple of kilometers to walk this morning it was a leisurely start to the day.  As usual we were at the shuttle pick-up long before it was and due.  Everyone has different ways of ‘playing the waiting game’.  One thing we all have in common was how cold it was – just sitting around waiting.

The shuttle duly arrived after dropping other walkers off further up the road.  Being driven back into ‘civilisation’ so to speak is always a different experience.  Saw many herds of young deer grazing in deer-fenced enclosures, farmers moving stock along the road, farm cottages and homesteads that must hold interesting histories and get to appreciate the size of the Rangitata River and volumes of water that must flow down there.

Geraldine is a delightful little country town with many beautiful shops.  Jodi highly recommended Verde Café for brunch.  The setting was beautiful.  The older style cottage had a veranda on three sides, partly surrounded by cottage gardens, Buxus hedging, white flowering Japanese anemone, and many other cottage garden plants – my type of venue.  I watched with envy as all the girls enjoyed bacon and eggs on toast!!

Geraldine to Christchurch

Jodie’s son picked us up in Geraldine and drove us all to Christchurch, where we were going our different ways. ☹  Jodi and Jane’s husbands were due to arrive any day (to have adventures with their wives) and they had children at Canterbury & Otago uni to visit and re-connect with.

It was sad to say goodbye Jodi and Jane.  We had the best adventures and made memories to last us forever. We will meet again for adventures in the North Island.

Two days in Christchurch

We spent a couple of days in Christchurch. I visited the A & E clinic (Christchurch DHB) to try and sort our my breathing issues.  Haven’t solved that problem yet but at least I know my heart is not the issue.  The assistance and support I received while at the hospital was first-class.  I had time to reflect on how lucky I was to have access to such a good health system and the professionals that work there.  My stomach issue has settled down – thank goodness.

Yvonne and I enjoyed exploring the city and were impressed with the progress that has been made in the re-development.  The gardens and parks are exceptional and a really cool place to explore.  Cyclists seem to be everywhere riding along the planned cycle-paths.

Spending time with families

Over the last couple of days both Yvonne and I have been spending time with our respective families, Yvonne in Motueka and me in Blenheim.  These few days have been very special, so thank you families – always great catching-up.

We only have one more adventure planned, time is running out. So, that is it until next time.  Take care out there GoldCard Gal 🙂

Additional scenes