Part 4 – Southland

Yesterday afternoon Yvonne and I arrived here at Te Anau Top10 Holiday Park.  Time for some rest, resupply and give our feet a chance to heal.  We are appreciating lying between clean, crisp white sheets, flicking the switch to make a cup of tea and luxuriating in the hot steamy shower.

After dropping off our packs in our room, we pampered ourselves to a “Sunday Roast Special” at the local hotel. Yvonne had her long dreamed after steak with roast vegetables and I had the roast lamb with vegetables – delicious and nourishing.  Finishing it off with a sticky date pudding and ice cream.

We are very happy with our decision to go NOBO.  Not necessarily any easier, but no need to carry so many days’ worth of food and water.  We have faced challenges that have tested us mentally and physically and we are successfully over-coming them in our own way.  We acknowledge this is our journey, and we can do whatever we choose.  We are slower than other walkers, but we get there and enjoy the views and scenery along the way.

We’ve completed 215 kilometres in the last 12 days – and we are still talking and laughing with each other!! Our bodies have served us well, just some minor blisters on our feet.  Walking for three days in wet socks and shoes doesn’t help!

My daily journal is below Yvonne’s reflections.  May I suggest if you are going to read it, make yourself a cup of tea or pour a glass of wine and come along on our adventure!

Yvonne’s reflections

Firstly I would like to thank Heather for having the desire to have at least one good adventure a year, so when she raised the idea to walk the Te Araroa trail in the South Island, I thought about it for some time and decided that I could do that thus agreeing  to go along for the ride, or should I say walk. Little did I know what I was getting into.  Well perhaps I did to a certain extent as I researched the trail on the net and also in books in the comfort of my own home however, actually doing it is entirely different as we have found out.

I would also like to thank Heather who has consistently recorded this journey day after day, even at the end of a long hard day, so all our family and friends can join us in this extended hike.

So what can I add.  Between us we seem to have different skills that compliment each other which has allowed us to make good decisions adding to the enjoyment of the hike.  We seem to be able to encourage each other when the going gets tough and give each other space when its needed. Best of all Heather likes to cook so I am really starting to appreciate food, it sure beats dried food hence I get to do the cleaning up. Not a bad compromise. So keep reading and share our experiences as we develop a real appreciation of the simple things in life. eg inside flush toilets, toilet paper, clean clothes, dry shoes, washing daily, availability of drinking water, etc. and the interesting people we meet.

At 74 it is great to feel that this hike is achievable we maybe slower than the youngest but still it is achievable.

Back on the trail again

Had a couple of firsts today.  First time I’ve flown into Invercargill airport and what a modern up-to-date airport it is.  We enjoyed some delicious airport food (another first) before we walked into Invercargill CBD.

We also discovered (as no doubt many of you already know or experienced) power banks are not permitted in checked-in luggage.  Unbeknown to us until we opened our packs that our power banks were confiscated at Christchurch airport.  This necessitated us buying a new power bank each – bother!!!

Northbound – Bluff to Invercargill – 35 kms

Day 1 – 19 January 2022

We were up and 5am this morning to have a quick breakfast before a shuttle picked us up at 6.15 am to deliver us to Stirling Point, Bluff (the start of our northbound journey).  It was a very dull overcast morning, with thick dark grey clouds hovering just above Foveaux Strait – little sight of Stewart Island.

We had the standard photographs and set off around the coastal walk to Ocean Beach. This track is beautiful, very protected from the wind.  To our left, down below the shoreline was very rocky with masses of bull kelp, (Durvillaea antarctica or D. poha) swaying back and forth as the waves rolled in and the water flowed quickly out again.

Bluff seemed a very sleepy town at that time of the morning.  We saw Tiwai smelter just across the harbour.  It is interesting to see places you hear about in the news etc.

Away from the sheltered walkway, we were battered by a south-westerly wind and driving rain – jolly cold and NO CAFES to be seen anywhere!!

Recently a cycleway/walking path beside the road has been created and sealed from Invercargill CBD to Bluff.  As we continued our walk along Ocean Beach Road the rain eventually stopped.  But not so the trucks going to and from Bluff!  To keep myself amused (as we walked along this rather boring stretch of walkway) I decided to count the number of trucks that passed us in one 10 minute slot.  There were 15 trucks in 10 minutes and that number was consistent all day – we were on that stretch of road for 4 hrs.

The eventually the cyclepath/walkway turned off and more or less followed the estuary back to the city.  It was a relief to get away from the noise of the traffic.  A great cycle way in the right winds!  You cyclists riding the Tour Aotearoa will ride this path when you complete your tour in February.

We were very pleased to finally reach CBD again – a long day.  My feet were feeling it, but my legs felt good.  As I reflect on my day, I can now feel my thighs.

First thing we did on our return was shower, wash our hair and down to the café for that much needed caffeine and sugar fix.  I had a chocolate brownie with yoghurt and a large flat white – tasted delicious.  Yvonne had a large flat white and a caramel slice which she tells me was sickly.

We had a nourishing evening meal of freshly cooked broccoli (I’ve missed my vegetables), fish and eggs.  While in the kitchen tonight we got chatting to this couple who have three children and they’re hiking the trail also.  The mum is Russian her name is Maria, Dad is Sri Lankan, didn’t catch his name and the kids are a mixture of colour – beautiful.  The baby is about four months old.  How they manage the kids and carry all their gear is quite something.  Makes our gear issues non-existent.    Maria said the kids are happy walking maximum 25 kms – amazing as the two older children must be 10 and perhaps 8 years old.

I’m tired and ready for bed.

Invercargill – Oreti Road Holiday Park, 8 kms

Day 2 – 20 January, 2022

We had a relaxing start to this morning as today we only had a short walk to Oreti Road Holiday Park.  The wind was still blowing strongly, and it was quite chilly with scrolly showers.

After buying new gas cylinders and power banks we headed off. Invercargill’s CBD is quiet and not a lot of traffic.

Today’s walk was flat walking through Otatara and on towards Oreti Beach.

Oreti Road Holiday Park

As we walked down the concrete driveway to the office we were surrounded by an exceptional display on those tall lilies with a strong perfume in a variety of colours.

We decided on having a cabin tonight as the weather has turned cold.  The wind still blowing strongly, and we didn’t want to carry wet tents tomorrow.  Our cabin is cosy, showers recently relined and very clean along with a well-equipped and clean kitchen.  Yvonne reckons she’d come back here again.

We both have had a good “power-nap” this afternoon and hoping for an early start tomorrow – 26 kms along Oreti Beach.  Burt Munroe used to race his motor bikes along this beach.  It would be something special if we saw anything exciting tomorrow.

Oreti Road Holiday Park – Riverton 26 kms

Day 3 – 22 January, 2022

I always remember this beach as it was where Burt Munroe used to race his motor bikes.

This morning we woke to the wind still blowing strongly and air feeling fresh – a nice south-west wind!  Today our goal was Riverton, 26 km walk along Oreti Beach.  It was important we crossed the only river while the tide was low – 11.40 am.

We did meet a couple of people digging for toheroa, they were very secretive about their catch and contents in their buckets.  Not sure if what they were catching was legal or not!

Before we knew it, we came across the river which was narrow and with a fast-flowing current, quite deceiving as I was to find out.  Here we meet our little Sri Lankan/Russian family again.  They had been camping in the sand dunes because they’d tried to cross the river last night at high tide and were unable to.

The Dad carried the two children over, the mother had their baby tucked away in the front pack and he was crying.  So, it was shoes off and we thought we’d help by carrying the kids packs over.  All went well until I put my right foot into a deep hole and over I went, loosing my shoes (which I was holding in my left hand) along with my walking poles and getting one of the kids packs wet.  Luckily, Yvonne was close by and grabbed my shoes and child’s pack.  We eventually crossed the stream, and I learnt a couple of valuable lessons about river crossings.

By this time the rain had arrived, the wind still blowing a gale.  I was wet and Yvonne and I were both getting very cold.  As quick as we could we put on our shoes, raincoat and got walking briskly to warm up. By this time the little family had disappeared into the distance.  We only passed them sometime later when they were having a lunch stop.  They were huddled together under an umbrella to protect them from the wind and rain – we call this fun???

This weather continued for a few hours.  All we could do was put one foot in front of other and keep moving – movement meant warmth.  As I said to Yvonne “this makes for a memorable experience, eh? We won’t forget this beach for a while.”  I won’t write what her response was.  We could be thankful we weren’t walking in the heat is all I could say.

Seven hours later feeling pretty tired we arrived at Riverton to find it extremely difficult to get any type of accommodation.  The Riverton Information Centre were very helpful, and we ended up in a beautiful place called La Riviera Boutique Guesthouse.  Little bit more than we would normally pay but – oh well we’re supporting local businesses!

We soon pampered ourselves with a hot shower, washed our hair with shampoo and conditioner (a first in over two weeks, (normally use cake of soap, not quite the same), and dried ourselves with fluffy white towels!!  There is nothing better than how you feel after a hot shower and being clean again.  We even got our clothes washed and dried – we both were in heaven, so to speak.

I’ve come to realise it’s the little things (like washing your hair with shampoo) that make you value the simple everyday activities we do without much thought.  So next time you wash your hair, give us a little thought!  😊

We visited the local supermarket and brought a few ingredients for dinner; the fresh corn was delicious and of course another meal of broccoli.

It’s now time for bed.

Riverton – Otautau 26 kms

Day 4 – 23 January 2022

Today we are road walking to Otautau a small rural town surrounded by dairy and sheep farming, not part of the TA trail.  The section we are bypassing is Longwood Forest and by all accounts – muddy with many knee-deep bog sections.  Yvonne and I both thought we did not need that – hence this road walking section.

For some reason we were late leaving, partly because our accommodation was so special, we wanted to make the most of it. Could have easily stayed a few extra nights – not sure my bank account would have agreed though.  It turned out our host Rose was an interior designer in Perth and moved to Riverton and redecorated this lovely old two-story building, with a French styled back yard.  It was beautiful.  Apparently Riverton is becoming very popular and property prices are soaring.

The cold south-west wind was still with us today.  As we walked on the left-hand verge of the road, we enjoyed the countryside and rural landscape.  This undemanding walking gives one’s brain the space and freedom to do whatever it chooses, always surprising me with what thoughts and experiences it replays.  Yvonne and I don’t talk a lot when walking, we both are in our little worlds placing one-foot-in-front-of-the-other.  Yvonne sometimes listens to audio-books on undemanding sections of the trail.  So far, once only.

As we sat down to enjoy our home-made lunch which included a bun with salmon and cheese (it was delicious) a SUV drove out of the driveway next to where we were sitting.  I haven’t seen Yvonne move so quickly.  Before, I knew it she was asking the driver if she was going to Otautau.  Sure enough she was and asked if we wanted a lift.  Yvonne was in that vehicle smooching up to the dog Jake even before I had a chance to put my shoes back on.  Holly was the driver’s name; she was working as a shepherd on the farm we had just passed.  She was a delightful young woman. I had a small issue to deal with – dog hair was everywhere but, in this instance, happily ignored it. She saved us a couple of hours walking and which was very much appreciated.

We spent a couple of relaxing hours in the Otautau pub, reading the newspaper, completing a code-cracker, rehydrating (coffee and beer) and generally chilling out.  We couldn’t get into our backpackers until late afternoon.

Our accommodation for the night was “The Old Railway Hotel & Backpackers”.  By the look and feel of it, it lacked TLC, never mind we had clean towels, linen, and soap.  We did enjoy the hot shower.  Visited the local supermarket, and had a quick bit to eat at the pub.  Not one of our best food choices, but it filled a gap.

I’m feeling tired tonight, so will call it a day and off to bed.  Tomorrow we road walk to Merrivale and will  re-join the TA trail again and hopefully catch up with Robert and Allan – the two guys we meet at Hacket Hut.  I’m hoping we can walk together – more fun that way.  Till tomorrow night.

Otautau – Merriview Hut 16 kms

Day 5 – 24 January 2022

Today we were road walking to Merriview hut.  The morning was clear, cool, and no wind when we started. Little traffic about, so quite a pleasant walk. The landscape was flat and gentle rolling hills, with grazing sheep and dairy cows.  It’s a beautiful area.

A local farmer has built this hut solely for TA walkers.  It is made from recycled materials and has five bunks, plus fresh running water at the bench and of course a long-drop toilet.  It costs $10 a night to sleep in the hut or $8 for a tent sight. Plus, 50c a free-range egg which the farmer dropped off later in the afternoon.

Yvonne and I spent the afternoon chilling out, reading and having our regular power nap.

Three young people have arrived, Jeff (Tauranga) whom we met in Riverton the other day, Naomi (Portland USA), and Alessandra (Italian name) but kiwi.  They’ve all had a long day on the trail and glad to see this delightful hut.  This is what I love, meeting these people, hearing about their stories, experiences and tales.

It’s 6.30 and still our friends Robert and Allan haven’t arrived yet.  Obviously been a tough day for them.  Robert and Dean (English guy haven’t met him before) turned up about 7 pm.  And they, like everyone else, the first thing they do is remove their boots.  It seems no matter how long you have been on the trail everyone gets sore feet and the odd blister.  Both Yvonne and I got small blisters today – a first for us both and guess it was the road walking.  I guess the sore feet at the end of a long day is something we’ll learn to live with.

Allan is still on the track where he’ll be tenting, he was just too slow to make it to the hut tonight. A recap, we meet Robert and Allan at Hacket Hut in the Richmond Ranges and we both made similar decisions.  They are also goldcard holders.

I love seeing what other people cook and eat – tonight it was: couscous, pasta, and freeze dry meals.

We had a delightful evening sharing tales. Early to bed tonight.

Merrivale Rd – Birchwood Station, Ohai 30 kms

Day 6 – 24 February 2022

A day of re-assurance and facing each challenge as we meet them.  Another words, don’t worry about issues you haven’t yet come across.

“There is no source of water for entire day” and “….. extremely steep hill. This would be almost impossible to descend safely when wet, especially without walking poles.”  These were some of the words about today’s route.

Big day today – a long day with a couple of steep climbs and in the background of my mind the words “extremely steep hill” constantly replaying.

Today was our real first day of following trail notes and markers through bush by ourselves.  Each section of the trail has detailed notes, but it isn’t until you start on the trail that they make any sense. On reflection we did jolly good today and felt proud of our efforts. Yvonne was happy leading the way through the dense bush and very good at spotting little orange markers – they are a life saver.

Exiting the Twinlaw Forest we were blown away by the panoramic view before us. We had a short rest to absorb this view – it was truly magnificent. Rugged mountains in the distance and farmland down below.  My photo doesn’t do it justice, but this view and feeling of insignificance I felt is something I’ll always remember.

Extremely steep hill

This part of the walk I had been dreading all day.  This thinking was re-enforced by a guy we’d meet earlier on the trail going south, who said “be careful of that hill it is very very step, virtually virtual.”  As usual my imagination went into overload!!

Now we are on the edge of the extremely steep hill.  My logical brain spoke, “what is there to worry about?  Firstly, you’re on farmland and secondly, you can saw an eight-wire fence nailed to large posts” – so that immediately put my mind at ease.  My reason being, that fencers had to construct that fence – therefore the hill can’t be that steep?

It was very steep but not a dangerous decent as it was dry. So, my initial fears had been unfounded – what a waste of mental energy that had been!  “Little message for you here Heather” is what my brain said to me.  It would have been a tough hill to climb though.

Jeff (whom we had met yesterday and in Riverton) caught up to us on the way down the steep hill.  He walked and chatted with us for a while and then raced on ahead as he had a lift to the local Tikatimu Pub.

Birchwood Station hut

It was a long walk down the hill and across farmland following fence lines and road walking to Birchwood hut.  Both Yvonne and I were very glad to reach this much talked about hut.  It had been one long day.  We were tired but still managed to keep it together, so to speak.

The hot shower was a godsend along with the usual cup of tea.  So nice to just flick the electric jug switch and you have hot water.  It was rest, dinner and into bed. Tomorrow zero day here at Birchwood.

Zero day at Birchwood Station Hut

Day 7 – 25 January 2022

The term “zero day” means no mileage, another way of saying “rest day”.

It was a treat to wake up and know we were staying put for the day. Chance for the body to recover as tomorrow it’s an even longer day, (10+ hrs) over Mt Linton Station which must be walked in one day.

Our friends Robert and Allan are coming over today from Merrivale Road – wonder what time they’ll arrive?

Takitimu Tavern

Yvonne and I are going to the Tikatimu tavern this evening for dinner and hoping to meet the owners who are also investing in small town NZ.  They offer an excellent service; they will pick you up and deliver you back to this hut free of charge as long as you buy a meal at their pub.  Sarah (woman running this hut) told us this afternoon that 12 people are arriving later this afternoon, and several of them are booked in to go to the tavern.  Should be an interesting evening!

Housework

I gave the hut a good sweep out this afternoon, even shook the large carpet floor mat outside!!  Realised this is the first real house-work I’ve done in 3 weeks other than sweep hut floors before I leave.  The place does look much tidier.

That is it until tomorrow night – wherever that will be!!

Birchwood Station to Telford Burn 30 kms

Day 8 – 26 January 2022

The hut was packed last night.  Six young people going SOBO turned up early evening. They had pre-booked the shuttle to Tikatimu Tavern for a meal.  They all started out individually and gradually found walking partners along the way.  A delightful group and so positive and happy – four girls and two guys.

The first alarm went off at 5 am, one of the young girl’s was heading off early.  Yvonne and I had a big day ahead of us and we finally left the hut at 7.15 am, walking across Mt Linton Station to Telford Burn.  As it is a working farm the trail follows fence lines which we are required to follow.  The trail takes you on a scenic route, not the most direct route.  You get a real tiki tour of the station.

We experienced rain, fog and sunshine.  The fog and rain making it difficult to identify and follow the orange markers, hence we had a couple of detours much to our annoyance.

Yvonne lost the end tip off one of her walking poles.  No idea when or where that happened but made walking a little uneven for her to say the least.

Finally, at 8 pm we arrived at our camp site, such a welcome relief and by this time the rain had started.  One other person was already on site and snuggled up in his tent – only to be heard.

Fortunately, between showers of cold rain we were able to erect our tents and have dinner. There was no washing of bodies or writing up my journal tonight, we both were very tired but pleased with how our bodies and feet handled the day.  Today was the first day my feet didn’t hurt at the end of the day, so I’m feeling pretty pleased about that – thank you Andrew Jones podiatrist.

It rained off and on during the night and all I could think off was my bladder!  Nothing worse than having to go to the toilet while sleeping in a tent and it’s raining!!

Telford Burn – Lower Wairaki Hut 9 kms

Day 9 – 27 January 2022

Our trail notes warned us not to attempt today’s trail if it was foggy or in stormy weather.  I didn’t want to know it was morning, didn’t have a good sleep, bit worried about today’s walk.  We had a late start as it was only 9 kms. I’m learning that short distances don’t necessarily mean easy days.

Today’s walk was a walk of contrast. Luckily, we could see the weather clearing so decided to make a go for it.  First up a very long steep climb through scrub, low lying bush and bracken.  It was poorly marked for us NOBO’s hence we had a couple of unplanned detours bush bashing.  Thankful for Topo maps app. Then we travelled along the tops of a range which was rocky with many different varieties of alpine plants, quite pretty and our final descent was through beautiful bush.

Before the big climb to the 1023 m summit, we had rock climbing and scoria scrambling to overcome.  When we first saw where we had to go, a few choice words were expressed by us both!!  It was time to put our ‘big girl pants on’, take a few deep breaths and take one step at a time.

Standing on the summit with 360^o views quite spectacular.  Considering this morning we weren’t even sure we’d get any walking in.  The Takitimu Range of mountains were looking breath-taking.

This evening we are staying in a little four bunk hut with an open fireplace, and little bench area.  We’ve been able to have a sponge wash, dry our tents and some of our clothing.  We, both are very proud of ourselves today, considering what we did yesterday and what we climbed today.

It’s 8.45 pm and it’s bedtime.  We are slowly getting our trail legs and we’re definitely getting physically and mentally stronger, so pleased with our decision to go NOBO.  Nite, nite.

Lower Wairaki Hut – Aparima Hut 16 kms

Day 10 – 28 January, 2022

Last night was our coldest night so far. We left the hut this morning wearing gloves and over trousers, but the sun was shining through the birch trees.  Today’s walk was mainly through forest, ending with tussock grass just before the Aparima hut.

We’re currently sharing this hut with two delightful young women.  Alice (French) from Arrowtown, she has walked here for the night away, and Anik (Netherlands) who is walking SOBO – she is one ‘fit, strong young woman’.   We had a lovely evening conversing.

We have the motto “prevention is better than cure.”  Meaning if we feel a blister or something rubbing, we stop and sort it out before it becomes an issue.  Today, was the first time I felt my left knee.  Thank goodness Yvonne was able to strap my left knee up and give it the support it needed without any further problems.

Our feet seem to be causing us a few issues at the moment.  Guess that could be partly due to the fact that our feet are wet most of the day, due to river crossings, and walking or trying to avoid muddy swamp like sections.  So, each morning before we put on our wet socks, we plaster our toes up and Vaseline our feet.  And each evening when we arrive in camp, we take the plasters off and wash our feet.

Aparima hut is lovely, sleeps eight people, usual set-up with small bench, long stainless-steel covered table with a couple of wooden seats.  Also included a pot belly fireplace.

It’s hard to type when people are having such interesting conversations, so I’ll say good night.

Aparima Hut – Lower Princhester Hut – 16 kms

Day 11 – 29 January, 2022

The night sky was magical last night when I got up to go to the toilet.  The sky was literally full of stars that looked like a series of tiny white lights.  This view was quite special to me.

Another a big day ahead of us, DOC predicted 9 hrs that means it will take us 11 hrs and sure enough it did.  The walk itself was through tussock grass of various heights, some as tall as us, birch forest and a saddle to climb over.

Yvonne is great at leading and following trails.  Walking through the tussock we needed to be vigilant in spotting the orange markers.  Sometimes we would have to stand on higher ground to see the next orange marker in the distant.  We’ve come to realise four eyes are better than two!

Our confidence was challenged today. While we were diligently following the orange markers our GPS said we were away off the track.  Had we taken the wrong turn somewhere way down the saddle?  Had we missed another track?  We decided to continue following the orange markers and see where it led us.  Thankfully we soon meet a delightful woman called Rachel, and her dog (she was camping up of some ridge for the night) coming up the saddle.  She reassured us we were on track and always trust the orange markers.  The relief both Yvonne and I left was immense.

The arrival at Lower Princhester Hut was most welcome, it had been a long day.  The feet and legs still feeling OK!

Yvonne got some great news tonight, Robert (one of our trail friend’s) texted her to say he’d found the end of her walking pole and will return it in Te Anau.  How fortunate is that?  Quite amazing when you think of the distance and terrain we travelled that day.

Women walking alone

We’ve met many single women (of various ages) doing the Te Araroa Trail. We admire their courage, determination and self-belief.  They all have different stories about why and how they’re tackling the various challenges they face daily.  They’re all so positive about their experiences and journey. It is a privilege to meet these women.

Today we met two women from Morrinsville, Jacqui and Debbie.  They started together back in October and now have decided to walk alone for the rest of the trail.  Claire, Debbie knows you, you gave her a buff – small world, eh?

Lower Princhester Hut – Princhester Road end  6kms

Day 12 – 30 January, 2022

We woke this morning to pitter patter of raindrops on the roof.  No worries for us today as we’re walking out to the end of Princhester Road through the Davaar Station.  Catching a shuttle bus to Te Anau for a couple of days rest and give our feet a chance to heal.  Hopefully catch up with our other trail friends also going NOBO.

Till next time

That is it from Yvonne and I.  We do think and talk about all of you often.  Take care out there – till next time GoldCard Gal  🙂

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