One Step at a Time – Part 2

Firstly, thank you all for your encouraging responses to my last post, it’s appreciated.

As I write up part 2, I’m sitting outside under the dining area shelter in Havelock Holiday Park. Which is very clean, tidy with good facilities. Havelock is surrounded by hills covered in regenerating bush.  It is another hot day here – no idea of the temperature but I can feel little droplets of sweat running down my spine.

Well, our first small goal has been successfully achieved – we have hiked the Queen Charlotte track and what a spectacular hike it was. As the days on the track progressed, we enjoyed meeting and creating friendships with other hikers.  They have all added value to our journey and will be remembered.

We have no blisters and no injuries. But enjoying a rest day here in Havelock before heading off into the Richmond Ranges on Monday 10th.

This next section – The Richmond Ranges will be a tough challenge both physically and mentally. I spent a fair amount of time last night worrying about the water supply up there. Thankfully today, Sari has offered to lend me her 5 ltr water bladder to tide us over.  Meanwhile my mind is thinking “that’s an extra 5 kgs of weight I have to carry.” At least we have surety of life saving water.  Let’s hope the weather stays fine with overcast days – not that we’re asking for much!

Note:  I’m not sure how best to record this journey.  It can make tedious reading but then again it is my diary – so you will just have to bear with me.  Part of the reason I write this blog is because when I return home, I won’t bore you with the details!  Instead, you can skim read through my posts or not read them at all and I’m none the wiser!  Happy all round.

Day 1 – 4 January, 2022

The day has finally arrived.  The day we start the Te Araroa trail.  The days and months of imagining, anticipation and organisation has finally arrived.  Over the coming days we’ll soon learn what is working and what is not.  When I hauled my pack on this morning, I knew it was heavy. I think I’ve packed a few too many luxury food items.  Why?  Because I hate the thought that I may get hungry, or I might need that quick sugary energy fix.  I guess hiking the Queen Charlotte track will enable me to get an idea of my food requirements and hopefully reduce the amount of food I’m carrying.

What a day – day one has been.  Firstly, Sari called in to see us at Piwaka Backpackers (so good to see my valued cycling friend) and collect some of our food for the Richmond Range. (She will hike in on Wednesday and meet us at Hacket Hut and hand over the food and water bladder.)  Then my brother Ben and sister-in-law Fran meet us for coffee and a great catch-up.  Always thoroughly enjoy catching up with family.

Next up our water taxi trip with e-ko.nz.  This was an unexpected bonus for us both.  We saw a Little Blue penguin swimming in the ocean, a King Shag preening himself in a majestic manor which apparently, they’re known for.  A beautiful group of fluttering shear water birds and a pod of dolphins very close to our boat, it was quite magical.  What an opportunity to see these species in their natural environment.  As expected this came with a running commentary of the wildlife and their history and current status etc.

While the rest of the group visited Motuara Island which is predator free, Yvonne and I were dropped off at Ship Cove about 3.30 pm.  Paul the Captain of the boat strongly recommended that we spend time here and absorb the history.  This boat trip was exceptional and well worth it, so if ever in Picton and want a treat to local endangered wildlife I highly recommend this company.

Queen Charlotte Track

Day 1

We did spend a short time at Ship Cove reading the various information boards and enjoying just being in that location and reflecting on the history of the area.

Our plan for this afternoon was to hike over to Schoolhouse Bay camp in Resolution Bay, which we did – only 6 kms, 3 kms ascent and 3 kms decent – not a difficult hike but stunning scenery often getting glimpses of the Sounds from a variety of viewpoints – always a good excuse for a short breather.

We meet many other people also walking the track. On the descent into School House Bay I had the company of a delightful 10 year old girl called Priya, she walked with me for the last kilometer of today’s hike.  She was very confident and as ease chatting away to me, a complete stranger.  It turned out her whole family are walking the track, Mum, Dad and her three siblings.

The camp site is located on the shore of a small bay. Short walk over small pebbles to the sea.  After erecting our tents we enjoyed a quick swim in the bay to cleanse ourselves of the sweat, and rinse our clothes.  We consumed a delicious meal of fish, couscous and peas, followed by dark chocolate and peppermint tea and then into bed.

Day 2

School House Bay to Camp Bay Campsite – 22kms

Getting on the track early is important for us as the heat has been pretty intense.  We visited Furneaux Lodge (beautiful building and location) with the anticipation of eating fresh muffins and sipping a good flat white coffee.  Unfortunately, there were no fresh muffins or scones, and the coffee was OK! But the surroundings were beautiful – you can’t win them all!

We were lucky to be mainly hiking along a shaded trail of regenerating bush. No major ups or downs.  And often when we came around another yet another corner, we were cooled by a gentle sea breeze.  At one of the many freshwater streams we had to cross we stopped and gave our feet a well-deserved cold water soak!  It also seemed to help lower our body temperature.

There were many minor and major slips on the track (as a result of that major storm they had here last year) that have been cleared. An impressive amount of hard work has gone into re-opening this track for the summer.

Arriving at Camp Bay was a relief, we were hot, and my feet were a bit tender.  After finding a suitable tent site Yvonne took her pack off and headed straight down to the sea for a swim – she loves water.  I preferred to erect my tent. It was a full camp site.

A couple we had meet on the track previously had informed us there was a bar at Punga Cove (5 minutes on from our camp site) where we could have a drink and get food – Boatshed Café & Bar.   It wasn’t long before we visited it for a well-deserved cold drink.  The service was excellent, and food was delicious, finishing off with a Magnum ice-cream.  Both Yvonne and I are into ‘supporting local business’ – well that is our excuse for treating ourselves.  I’ll add here it does nothing for reducing the weight of our packs though!!

It will be early to bed this evening, as we have a big day tomorrow and our bodies need the rest.

Day 3

Camp Bay – Black Rocks Campsite (15.7 km)

What a way to be woken by a very loud morning bird song – very special.  Today we walk along the top of the Kenepuru Peninsula often getting spectacular views of bays below to both Queen Charlotte Sound and Kenepuru Sound.

We hiked many steep ups and downs today, it was quite a tough day.  Thankfully it was overcast with a chilly wind.  The track was well marked  – mostly easy under foot, and walking through beech forest, under large pine trees and regenerating bush.  We meet our first mountain bike riders today.

I love the camaraderie that has developed between us hikers who started on the track on the same day.  Groups of young people, couples and Priya’s family.  Priya’s family seem really special, both parents are teachers and they have four children, all of whom are very communicative and seem to be enjoying the hike.  They along with majority of other hikers have their packs shipped between camp sites, which must make their experience so much easier, therefore more enjoyable.  But not Yvonne and I, we need the toughening up!!  Not that the idea didn’t cross our minds!!

We arrived at Black Rocks campsite, about 3ish very much in need of a cup of tea, sugar fix, and a rest.  We weren’t sure whether to push on another 8kms to the next camp site but soon decided against that idea.  It had turned very cold, with strong southerly wind, and showers of light drizzle.  We spent rest of afternoon/early evening snuggled up with our sleeping bags keeping warm and recovering from the day’s effort.

As I finished this update I can see in the distance through various shades of grey clouds and mist the lights of Picton.

Favourite time of the day:

• Breakfast – anticipating what adventures we will have today.
• End of day hiking – taking my pack, boots and socks off, then slipping my bare feet into my open toe sandals and boiling the billy for that anticipated cup of tea and something to eat.

It’s time for bed 9.10 pm – looking forward to 9 hrs of bliss and relaxation.

Days 4

Black Rocks campsite – Mistletoe Bay 16kms

It was a windy night with the odd cold shower of rain.  This morning we were a bit slower getting going but on the track by 8 am.  We shared this camp site with another couple, both from Wellington.  We have been surprised at the number of Wellingtonians we have meet on the track. Their general response has been “it’s so convenient, and who knows with this Covid thing”.

The track from Black Rocks to Torea Bay Road is mainly down-hill and easy under foot.  Again, the glimpses of the Sounds on both sides (Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru) were spectacular.  You get an appreciation for how vast the Sounds are in area and how many people have batches/homes with only boat access and how many own yachts and other sea worthy vessels – another world for me.

It was another day of steep climbs and descents with plenty of views to encourage us to stop and take a breather.  We meet our little family again and had the pleasure of walking with them for short time.  The kids chatted away to us and that helped pass the time.  They have made our trip more enjoyable and this evening we touched base with them again to say our farewells. They are staying in a cabin as a treat at Mistletoe Bay.

This afternoon after setting up our tents in this eco village and having that long awaited cup of tea we had something very special – a shower with hot water.  The first on the track and very much enjoyed, even washed my hair with a cake of soap.  My hair felt light and smooth again.  Yvonne and I were in heaven – even had the facilities to hand wash our clothes.  We are getting used to wearing the same clothes day after day.  Never in my life have I worn a pair of socks for five straight days!

We also meet up with Matt and Lalu again, these two guys started the track on the same day as us, but it’s only been over the last couple of days that we’ve started to chat with them.  They also have their packs water taxied to the next camp site.  So, what happens is that Yvonne and I leave camp early and these two guys pass us on the track.  We chat a little and they disappear into the distance and we catch up again with them at the next camp site.

After dinner we meet Phil (from Christchurch), who is also walking the Te Araroa.  Today he hiked 30 odd kms, but he wasn’t carrying a pack – he had his pack water taxied to Mistletoe Bay. He was keen to hear how far we had walked.  We informed him we were like “tortoises – slow and steady” not sure he understood that comment.  We will not try and keep up with him or match his mileage.  Over the past few days we’ve come to realise it’s is our journey and we can do what we like.

It was into bed early this evening 8.15 pm.

Day 5

Mistletoe Bay – Anakiwa 12 kms

After a good night’s sleep we were up and packed early, partly because it’s our final day but also because of the good night’s sleep.  Today’s walk was beautiful with few ups and down – in other words an easy hike.  We hiked mainly in the shade of regenerating bush and beech trees.  There were quite a few mountain bikers on this section of the track, so one needed to be very aware of them approaching from either way.

You would walk happily along the trail and then suddenly there would be an opening between trees and  there is another breath-taking scene of the bays and inlets.  It is such a stunning location.

As we hiked along the trail this morning, we meet Frank a North Bound (NOBO) Te Araroa (TA) hiker, as opposed to us we are South Bound (SOBO) .  We had a long chat with him about his experiences etc. He said he hitch hiked all the road sections as he felt the road walking didn’t enhance his back country experience at all.  He is nearing the end of his adventure and both Yvonne and I commented later about how fresh and clean he looked.  He was a delightful young man and informed us that many NOBO hikers were coming through.  We are looking forward to meeting them along the trail and hearing about their experiences.

Again we meet up with Matt and Lalu a couple of times this morning.  At the end of today’s hike they were heading back to Wellington on the ferry.  It’s been great meeting and chatting with these two guys.

Arriving at Anakiwa was special, as I’d never been here before. Good to see where Outward Bound is located.  We enjoyed a bite to eat and then spent time trying to decide “do we start walking to Havelock or do we hitch a ride?”  Yvonne was onto it and saw this couple putting a kayak into the back of their ute so asked them nicely if they were going to Havelock and if so would they mind dropping us off.

So, instead of having to walk along the road in the heat we arrived in Havelock about 3pm ish – what a treat! It wasn’t that easy to get accommodation, which was a bit tough for us but great for the accommodation businesses here.  We have ended up at the Havelock Holiday Camp, cabin tonight but sadly back into our tents for Sunday evening – they’re fully booked out.

We ventured out last night in Havelock to have a well-deserved meal to find we could not get into either of the two restaurants that were open – they were fully booked.  The fish and chips we finally got tasted pretty good (at the time), considering neither Yvonne nor I hardly ever have brought take-aways.  Later that night my body reacted to all that fat etc, hence today my stomach is not it’s normal self.

After our meal we sat down and planned our next 10/12 days hiking – pretty daunting to say the least especially when water supplies could be running low.

Rest day tomorrow – yippy 😊  Sari is meeting us for a lunch of mussels and my brother Ben is meeting us Monday morning and will drop us off at the end of Maungatapu Road, saving us two days of road walking.  Thank you Ben 😊

What have we learnt over the past five days?

• I didn’t carry anything unnecessary
• Food choices about right
• I need to learn I can be hungry, and I won’t die
• Early starts are the best
• A good night’s sleep is priceless for mental and physical well-being
• Communication with other’s adds value to our lives
• Feel the fear and do it anyway
• Embracing the unknown

That is it until St Arnaud, hopefully 10 – 12 days away, but who knows.  Take care GoldCard Gal 🙂

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