Part 6 – Otago

Thank you for your feedback and comments, which are appreciated.  They have enabled me to ponder your responses over the past few days and get things into perspective.  I’m not always able to respond as we seem to disappear for a few days on our next section which usually has no cell phone coverage.

Well, the last few days have been full of adventures, laughs, challenges and good company.  We’ve been fortunate that Jodie and Jane (good and long-term friend of Jodi’s from Auckland) have joined us, or we have joined them.  We meet Jodi and her daughter Ruby on the Greenstone Valley hike and had decided we’d do some walking together. Having Jodi and Jane has been a moral boost, ensured plenty of laughter and good decision making.

We’ve meet more wonderful people along the trail and, in the huts, all doing their own adventure.  Some of them have been on the trail for 90 days, others 60 days and some a couple of weeks like us.

As I write this post we’re currently in Tekapo, waiting for the this next weather system to pass through so we can walk the Two Thumb Range which has the highest altitude crossing on the TA – just under 2,000 meters.  We’re planning on leaving Sunday am.

Mt Cook visit

In the meantime, we are going to explore local Tekapo walks.  Yesterday we took a trip up to Mt Cook as neither Yvonne or I have ever been there before.  It was perfect weather to visit this awe-inspiring location.  Both Mt Cook and Mt Sefton were looking majestic.  We walked up and visited both Hooker and Tasman glaciers.

As per normal, before you read our diary, make yourself a cup-of-tea or pour a wine!

Albert Town – Birchwood Carpark – 76 kms

Day 24

Albert Town to Lake Hawea (The Camp Holiday Park) 12 kms

10 February 2022

We enjoyed another couple of relaxing days in Cromwell with my brother Les and his wife Carol.  We were fortunate, their daughter-in-law Anna was able to include us in her car for a ride to Wanaka.  Anna dropped us off at a very nice French pâtissier café called Pembroke Pâtissier.  The coffee and Pain au Chocolate was delicious – highly recommend it. Just what we needed before we walked to Lake Hawea.

Our packs felt heavy today as we walked along the cycle way between Albert Town and Lake Hawea.  Guess with six days’ worth of food, what did we expect.

The cycle trail was quite busy with cyclists.  Sari and I cycled this route (but in reverse) four years ago but in much different conditions – today it was hot with a northwest wind blowing, then it was cold, wet and south-westerly blowing.

Tonight, we are staying at The Camp Holiday Park on the shores of Lake Hawea.  Large camping ground with plenty of space for glampers, campers and even a little trailer that sells food to the campers.

Day 25

Lake Hawea – Pakituhi Hut 13 kms

11 February 2022

Our body alarm saw us out of bed around 6 am.  We were soon packed up, breakfast eaten, water bottles filled and on our way along the Lake Hawea waterfront trail to Gladstone where The Breast Hill Track started off Timaru Creek Road.

The notes say “things change dramatically” here where the track starts.  And they sure do.  Beginning with a steep switchback climb then continuing along a rocky ridgeline that required plenty of scrambling over many steep rocky sections.  Today’s climb was over 700 meters and to us our toughest and most physically demanding day yet, little did we know what we were in for.

Yvonne climbing Breast Hill. Lake Hawea township in distance

We arrived at Pakituhi hut tired and in need of water and a rest! So after many cups of water and a good ‘power-nap’ we felt also human again and able to have a coherent conversation.

Yvonne’s recollections of today

Lake Hawea – oh how beautiful! A 2.5 hr walk from The Campground to the start of the climb.  Then blood, sweat, tears, fears and some colourful language.  What a beast – no wonder they call it “the big hill”.  I had 2 litres of water on board and still got dehydrated.  Looking back at the cool blue lake my thoughts dwelt and fantasised about “drinking to the max of my capacity, and then diving into the lake to get my body back to a comfortable temperature.”

But no, it was one step at a time to an ever-distant horizon under the sweltering heat.

A lot of scree, and too scared to look down in case the old brain convinced you of all the terrible things that could happen if one missed their footing.   I could Heather’s voice in my ears saying “one step at a time.”  I did notice her mantra change from “one-step-at-a-time” to “whoever wanted adventures such as these!!”

We were proud of our effort today but has got us thinking about what we do next?

Fly-in visitor

While chilling out in the hut we could hear voices and immediately started looking for hut visitors, but no it was a “paraglider” floating down towards our hut.  He landed just below and is staying here for the night.  There is a paragliding competition on for the next three days, we were told to expect to see many more paragliders up here.

Met a delightful young couple Inka and Fabian from Wellington.  They both had finished university a couple of years back.  Since then, they’ve converted their truck to a house truck, been working to fund their adventures and now walking TA.  They also spent six months cycling in Europe which I found most  interesting.  But why I remember them is Inka made me a AeroPress coffee, which was the best.

Day 26

Pakituhi Hut – Stodys Huts – 13 kms

12 February 2022

We woke to thick fog.  It was nice to have a slow start this morning.  We only had 11 kms to the next hut, which was following a four-wheel drive track, so not much thinking or watching of foot placement.

We walked mostly in fog today, first so far.  Consequently we didn’t get to marvel at the surrounding hills and valleys.

We arrived at this old styled DOC hut called ‘Stodys Hut’ about mid-day just in time for lunch and we spent the rest of the day chilling out, reading and resting.

The hut has a dirt floor, but someone has laid an old tarp over the dirt.  It has a raised fireplace which incidentally someone has set ready to light. The hut sleeps six.

In the afternoon wanting something constructive to do I managed to mend a hole in my shoe – it will be interesting to see how long my mend lasts – used dental floss as the thread.  Found the much-needed needle in my first aid kit, which I’ve had since 2016 and have never opened.  Finding that needle was a godsend.  My mend is still holding well – dental floss a strong thread for mending.

Our friends Jodi and Jane from Auckland have just arrived at the hut.  We’ll be walking with them for the next few days and then we have another adventure planned together up near Tekapo.  Looking forward to sharing this walk with them.

Day 27

Stodys Hut to Top Timaru Hut – 14 kms

13 February 2022

Having company for today was great and it gave us additional confidence.  When the notes suggest “8 hrs for 14 kms”, that’s got to mean something!!  For us we always add another couple of hours.   This walk ended up taking us 11 hrs.

First off, we had 2 hrs of steep downhill, and it was STEEP. Every step was calculated.  Poor Jodi had a fall and Jane’s walking pole collapsed.  When we arrived at the bottom of the hill, we thought we’d done the worst of it is over, but oh no.  We spent the rest of the day climbing or scrambling up, (often on all fours) steep ridges, and then down again and crossing the Timaru River 10 times.  This went on all day – up and down and then up again, and walking around and across steep sidles – the track was relentless for us.

New river crossing skill

Jane was the river crossing coach, she had us all crossing together with linked arms and just shuffling our feet together.  Yvonne and I were both amazed at how safe we felt crossing some of the swifter sections of the river.  If it had just been us, we doubt whether we would have attempted some of the crossings.  Thank you Jane and Jodi for your support and guidance.

We finally arrived at Top Timaru Hut about 7 pm with the hopes of a quiet night in the hut.  But that wasn’t to be.  The hut was full, so we ended up setting our tents up in the frigid evening air.  We weren’t long out of bed tonight.  Sleep didn’t come easy tonight but at least the body was resting.

Day 28

Top Timaru Hut – Tin Hut 11 kms (one of our favourite days)

14 February 2022

After our big day yesterday, we had a slow start this morning.  The day dawned clear; the sun could be seen coming over the surrounding hills – it was going to be a good day.  But it was still cold down in our valley.  One of the guys in a tent near us said he had ice on his tent!

Our walk today was over Martha Saddle at 1680 meters along a what could be called a four-wheel drive track.

Each day we are advised to record our ‘intentions’ for the day in an “Intentions Book”.  This book is always placed in a special slot on the wall in every hut.  After recording our intentions, we flicked to the back of the book and read a horrendous story of a person’s experience/recollections of crossing the Timaru River after it had been raining for 36 hrs.   Their experience happened because they didn’t want to climb back up the steep hill to Stodys Hut (which we totally understood) and wait for the river levels to fall.  They acknowledged they were lucky to be alive.  They were sweep away and had difficulty turning over on their back to breath and then getting their pack unhooked.  Here is a link to Mountain Safety Council guidelines for river crossings.

Often you know all this and people still make the decision to cross.  We’ve been told that river crossings claim the most lives in NZ wilderness.

Today was our favourite day because the views and surroundings were magnificent.  There wasn’t a sound, the silent was golden so to speak, clear blue skies, and the hills were covered with low growing golden tussock.  The mountain peaks looked rugged with many schists like rock falls.

We arrived at Tin Hut (which is privately owned by Michele and Bryan Patterson, Longslip Station) an old musterer’s hut that sleeps six people.  What a delightful place to chill out.  There were three lovely old chairs you could take outside and just sit and absorb the environment.  There was a beautiful stream below the hut to get water from and wash.  Jane and Jodi even found a little pool to swim in.

We spent the early evening drying out tents and sleeping gear and chilling out in this special place.

We had a full hut tonight with Jane and Jodi sleeping in their tent.  We meet this amazing young 17 year old from Cambridge called Emma who is walking the trail on her own.  She has just left high school.  She had walked in one day what took us two days.  She was strong physically and mentally and very healthy looking.  We are in awe of the people that walk this trail on their own.

Day 29

Old Tin Hut – Birchwood Station Car Park – 13 kms

15 February 2022

Another slow start today.  Only 13 kms to the car park where we’re being picked up and taken to Omarama for the night.

After enjoying a few cups of black coffee and a leisurely breakfast we left this delightful location.  It was more or less a gentle downhill walk on an existing four-wheel drive track which meandered between high tussock hills.  The day was very enjoyable and not demanding physically, but hot.

Jodi had organised a ‘pick-up’ for 5 pm, but we were at the car park 2.30 pm ish.  Thank goodness for technology in the way of an In-Reach Garmin.  Jodi was able to text her husband in Auckland who contacted Bruce (the driver) who then picked us up about 3.30 ish  While we waited we were able to shelter from the blazing sun in the shadow of a dust covered SUV.

Arriving at Ahuriri Motels (Omarama) dusty, hot and in need of a drink was welcomed.  It was sooo good to have that long-overdue shower, wash hair, and get our washing done and hang out to dry in the hot sun.  We went for out for dinner at the local pub.  My goodness that food tasted great, ate more than we should have but we all were feeling as though we needed some good healthy protein!

As we climbed into bed, the crisp white sheets felt like heaven. It wasn’t long before we were in the land of wink, blink and nod.

Weather Systems

The recent and up incoming weather systems are having a major impact on our next sections and what we do.  The TA trail updates are advising us of washouts, bridges been sweep away and higher than normal river flows.  Having experienced some scary river crossings we are re-evaluating our options.  This uncertainty creates hesitation, dilly-dallying, indecisiveness and mental fatigue.  Also not having any  form of transport is challenging, especially when we’ve all been so used to doing what we like, when we like. Decisions, decisions!!

We are looking forward to the Two Thumb Range on Sunday.  Till next time, take care out there – GoldCard Gal 🙂

 

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