One Step at a Time – Part 3

Part of Richmond Ranges – And change of direction

We’ve had a big change of plans, but firstly thank you for your support and encouragement to my last post.  I haven’t answered individual comments as we have been out of cell phone coverage since Havelock on Monday 10 January.

It’s now Friday 14 January and this morning we walked out from Hacket Hut to Aniseed Valley Carpark, approximately 7 kms.  A very fit and good-looking middle-aged man named Nigel (in the logging business) gave us a lift into Richmond in his big white ute.  Yvonne’s son Chris picked us up from there and we will stay with him and his family for three nights before heading south to Invercargill on Monday.

Change of direction

It was a difficult decision to make and accept but we both felt we weren’t fit or strong enough to continue walking over the Richmond Ranges to St Arnaud.  The last three days have been tough, but we handled it, the next 12 days were going to be tougher.  The journey was going to take us a few days longer than predicted, that meant extra food and water which equals extra weight (which we could ill-afford) and this has consequences.  So, with the wisdom of age (some might question that), being at a critical decision-making point on the trail (we could easily exit here) and acknowledging our weaknesses, physical capabilities, and age, we have made the decision to change direction and head to Bluff.  Thank goodness for Grab-a-seat with Air NZ.

So next time you hear from us will be from the deep south somewhere.  We will then be classed as North Bounders (NOBO).

Below is my diary to date:

Day 8

Road End – Captains Creek Hut – 8.5 km

Not sure this is such a good idea, sitting outside at the wooden table recording today’s activities – as I’m being eaten by sand-flies here at Captains Creek Hut. Which is located on the banks of the crystal-clear waters of the Pelorus River.

This morning brother Ben & Fran (his wife) meet us at Havelock for coffee and then drove us to the end of the Maungatapu Road. This very kind offer saved us at least two days road walking.  If you have driven along State Highway 6 between Havelock and Nelson, you’ll understand why we gladly accepted Ben’s offer.

My heart was a flutter of nerves when Ben dropped us off, why I’m not sure, partly because we were venturing into the unknown and possibility the 12 – 14 days of “slog” –  I guess you could say.  But then what did I expect – tracks like the Queen Charlotte?  Ha ha – those are a distant memory now.

It took me a good 30 minutes before I settled and concentrated on putting one foot in the front of the other.  Today was a day of full concentration with every foot placement checked because of all the exposed gnarly tree roots to negotiate through and over, along with rocky outcrops to sidle around.  Making sure to stay focused on the track and not look down! This makes for a slow journey for us – but better slow and be safe! At least the track was dry, would hate to hike it when it was wet!  The track more or less followed the Pelorus River which is clear and beautiful.

And thankfully we were mostly under the shade of Beech trees, as it was a hot day out there.

The time guide for this track was 4 hrs, we took 5 hours.  We felt mainly because our packs were heavier, which is taking the body time to adjust to and Yvonne and I have dodgy knees. This sure slows things down, but that is OK as long as we get where we intend to go.

Arriving at Captain Creek Hut, we downed our packs and Yvonne went straight down to the river for her daily swim.    I enjoyed soaking my legs and having a much need wash – as we sweated plenty today.

We all know NZ is such a small place, well this afternoon I had a very bizarre experience.  Two young men, high school age arrived here at the hut with big packs on and full of enthusiasm.  They too immediately went for a swim.  Afterwards we got chatting to them and one of the young men is Gae & Craig’s neighbour from North West Bay in the Marlborough Sounds.  What is interesting about this is that I’ve only just got back in contact with Gae (we were in Laos together back in 2006-8, and I had lost contact with her and Craig).  That is until I meet my house-sitter Kathy couple of weeks back who knew Gae really well back in Gisborne many years ago. So Gae, your neighbour’s name is Piripi.

A bit later a French guy also arrived at our hut, he is NOBO – heading North and also has a huge pack and was quite difficult to understand speech wise.  After cooking up some food the two young men carried onto Middy Hut, another couple of hours away.  Neither of these young men were at high school, one was doing correspondence and the other home schooled in Havelock.  Great to see young people out enjoying the wild

The sand-flies are really bugging me, time I went inside and probably thought about bed.  We will have an early start tomorrow – hopefully getting to our destination in early afternoon.  It is nice to have the chance to have a chill out/power nap at the next hut after that much anticipated cup-of-tea and something to eat.

So night night from me, looking forward to getting stronger thighs and knees!!

Day 9

Captain Creek Hut – Rocks Hut – 10 kms

The stars were shining brightly last night when I got up to go to the toilet – most notability in The Southern Cross – very special.

Yvonne and I were on the track by 7.15 am with 5½ hrs of hiking ahead.  It’s been a day of ‘out of comfort zone experiences”, swing bridges (my favourite activity – yeh right), long steep climbs over exposed tree roots – virtually all day, rocks and scree sections.  We both have learnt you don’t look down!  As we walked it is so peaceful.  All we could hear was the cicadas’, click clack of our walking poles and my pack’s squeaking with each movement.

As we were slowly climbing our way up another hill and sweat dripping down may face, I heard my phone alarm go off, and remembered, it’s my Tuesday cycling group day.  I thought of all my cycling boyfriends and girlfriends and wondered where you’d be riding today and what the weather was like?  I realised while I missed you all, I was very happy doing exactly what I’m doing.

NZTopo50

Before our adventure Maureen (cycling & hiking friend) showed us how to use NZTopo50.  This app enables us to get our exact location via satellite without cell phone coverage along with landscape contours etc.  This is proving invaluable and very reassuring – so thank you Maureen.

Arriving at Rocks Hut was a welcome sight. We were the first so we get to choose where to sleep. I always like to choose a location close to any windows – at least then you can get some fresh air.  It’s a very nice hut containing 16 bunks and believe it or not “flushed toilets x 2”.  That is a first, never have I seen flushed toilets in any DOC huts, but they are appreciated.

 

After our regular “power-nap” it was a quick walk up to the Lockout where we were could see the Richmond Range mountains, quite stunning and beautiful.  We were able to get cell phone coverage – so had a quick check of my emails and must say thank you for your post comments.  I don’t have much battery life to respond but be rest assured your comments are appreciated.

Tonight, we are sitting around a large steel top table chatting with three other hikers.  Sharing stories, experiences, and general chit chat. All very interesting people – one male and two females.  What I did notice that they also went and had a ‘power nap’ soon after arriving at the hut after their day’s hike.

It’s off to bed, the body needs the rest.  Tomorrow we are meeting up with Sari, as she is bringing in extra food for the coming days.

Day 10

Rocks Hut – Hacket Hut – 16 kms

Today was a hard day 9 hrs, much longer than predicted 7 hrs.  More of the same – gnarly tree roots to navigate over, some pretty steep downs, which both Yvonne and I are very slow at. And much brushing aside of over-grown bracken to just see the track let along where to put your feet.

While we had a little break at Browning Hut, Yvonne had a swim.  For me, I soaked my feet and just as I was pulling my shorts up (from soaking them), we heard this loud American voice say “hello girls.”  We both got quite a fright as we hadn’t expected to hear or see anyone this afternoon.  Anyway after a short conversation he asked if could walk with us.  Well, that only lasted about 20 seconds before he disappeared down the track and out of sight – never to be seen again.

Just when we thought we had it made coming along the last couple of kms on what we’d define as a “normal” track surface (no tree roots or rocks) we were confronted with two major washouts!!  These had us thinking for several minutes before we managed to successfully negotiate both slips – very carefully.  This certainly got our hearts pumping and we had to have a little sit down afterwards to gather ourselves togetheragain.

When we arrived at Hacket Hut Sari had been and gone.  She left our food bag well-hidden, but hadn’t wait around for us and I can’t blame her as it took us much longer than anticipated.

This evening we managed to give ourselves a good wash down at the river and even rinsed my smelly clothes.  The heat of the sun soon dried our clothes which we draped over the wooden outdoor table.  We have the hut to ourselves tonight, which is nice, it is small and cozy with 6 bunks.

We spent much of the evening sorting what food we still had, what food we needed for the coming days and what distances we needed to cover.   After completing this activity I could feel a little apprehension building up in my mind!

We are being eating again by sand-flies, so will finish this and go to bed.

Day 11

Hacket Hut – Rest day

I didn’t have a good sleep last night as I was visited by Mr Self-doubt, Mr Fearful, and thank goodness Miss Common Sense joined the mental chatter.  I feel this was all brought on after revising our travel plans over the Richmond Range.  With our walking times taking longer than predicted, packs heavier again after sorting out our food (which Sari dropped off) my confidence and ability in us completing this section was in doubt.  I guess it’s mainly the steep descents that bother me most with our doggy knees and balancing heavy packs.

So at about 6 am this morning Yvonne and I discussed our options.  We decided to have a rest day today and then walk out to Nelson tomorrow and re-assess the next stage.  Yvonne has a son and soon to be daughter-in-law living in Motueka.  This is not what we had planned but feel for our safely and health it is for the better for the time being.  We will be back to complete the Richmond Range but not just yet.

I couldn’t believe how mentally tired I was this morning; the past three days of concentration have certainly taken its toll. Yvonne and I spent all morning lying in our sleeping bags reading and dozing – just what the Doctor ordered.

In the late afternoon two other older hikers, Robert and Allan arrived.  Allan was completely shattered, Robert in a better state.  They like us are re-evaluating their options. Perhaps start at Bluff and walk north, like so many other hikers are doing.

We had a fun evening chatting together and discussing lots of different topics. All in bed by 8.30.

Feeling at peace with our decision to head south and re-start from Bluff.

Day 12

Hacket Hut – Aniseed Valley car park 7 kms

Today we enjoyed a leisurely walk out to the car park.  This track is very popular with mountain bikers, trail runners and people taking their dogs for a morning walk.

Enjoying time in Motueka

It has been years since I visited this part of NZ.  The countryside is looking very dry, it’s hot and very busy traffic wise.  We enjoyed catching up and having a coffee with long time friend Sue (always referred to as “paddling Sue”) at T.O.A.D Hall.  What an interesting business and they serve great coffee.

As mentioned earlier we are currently staying with Yvonne’s eldest son and family, enjoying time together.  Thank you Chris and Louisa for your wonderful and generous hospitality at such short notice.

Neville and Diane of Wanaka, Les and Carol you can expect to see us much earlier than originally planned, but will give you plenty of warning.  Look forward to catching up with you all.

In the mean time, take care out there and stay safe.  GoldCard Gal 🙂

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