It’s Tuesday, the rain is pouring down, and my gutters are overflowing. The forecast for tomorrow is similar but also includes lightning strikes and thunderstorms! On Wednesday Yvonne (from Rotorua) and I plan to hike from Whakapapa to Waihohonu hut, which is located between MT’s Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu, in the Tongariro National Park, New Zealand.
I send Yvonne the following text:
“Good morning Yvonne, tomorrow’s weather is looking dreadful, you still keen to go?”
A quick reply was soon received “Yes of course, unless it is dangerous.”
Just the response I was looking forward to. I have never been one to put off events because of the “predicted” weather forecast. I have that philosophy of “wait and see what a new day brings”.
Our hike to Waihohonu hut and back had been organised for some weeks and many scenarios had been imagined and visualised. Additionally, I wanted to also check out the track from Desert Road to Waihohonu hut for when my granddaughters visit and we can share an adventure together.
Yvonne and I meet on a Tuesday evening at Skotel Hotel, Whakapapa. This was preferred to driving down early in the morning, which makes for a long day. Before we started our hike on Wednesday I also wanted to check the track conditions and river levels at the Information Centre, considering the forecasted weather!
Wednesday morning dawned fine at least no rain and not a mountain to be seen anywhere. The cloud was low and thick, but you could see several hundreds of meters across the tussock covered foothills – an encouraging sign.
Once we got the “all clear” from the Information Centre, no raised river levels and track conditions good we hauled our packs on, made minor adjustments to ensure our packs were balanced and hit the track. We were so keen to get moving we forgot to get any before photos.
The walk to Waihohonu Hut is approximately 15.5 kms with an estimated walking time of 5 hr 45 mins. The first section goes past Taranaki Falls and onto Tama Lakes. This track is also part of the popular Northern Circuit route and Round the Mountain Circuit.
The track is very well maintained, easy walking with good board walks and plenty of wooden steps to help prevent soil erosion. The foothills are open tussock and shrubland. The main river we had to cross was low – we could stone hop with no fear of getting wet feet. So Ruapehu had not had the rain that was predicted!
The turn-off to Waihohonu hut is approximately 10 minutes before Lower Tama Lake. And includes a strategically placed long-drop toilet, always a good excuse for a rest and something to eat. Still no sign yet of the predicted rain or lightning strikes!!
I had been told the Waihohou hut was one of the best huts around, gas cookers and even hot water, but no showers. There was a hut warden in residence until 31 April so we knew we would be in good hands, so to speak.
Five + hours later we arrived at the hut and were not disappointed. With our boots and packs off, it wasn’t too long before we were enjoying a hot brew. Thank goodness for an effective solar water system.
How wrong weather forecasts can be, it was predicted, heavy downpours and lightning, but you know what we didn’t experience either, it was only ever a light drizzle. But we were prepared for all conditions. Yvonne’s husband (a pilot) told her “weather is very localised” and what we were experiencing totally reinforced that theory.
Feeling refreshed, with backpacks unpacked; bunks chosen and sleeping bags rolled out, it was time to get the fire going. Thankfully, there was an excellent supply of dry firewood. Using the broken handled axe, I soon had a variety of split kindling cut and along with odds bits of paper, the fire was ignited. It soon created a feeling of warmth and comfort. Meanwhile outside the rain had arrived and it “poured down”. Such a great feeling being inside and dry.
In the late afternoon, we were joined by two Aucklanders (husband and wife team) and neither of them looked great when they arrived. By the way they walked – they seem to have knee problems, she was really tired, and both were drenched, having just got caught in a heavy downpour of rain. The thought crossed my mind “it pays to get on the track early”.
Unfortunately, I don’t know why they decided to share the same bunk room as Yvonne and me?? Here we were hoping we might get to enjoy a quiet night’s sleep!! Guess it was partly because our bunkroom was close to the kitchen and warm fire.
Hut Warden
One of the hut warden’s jobs is to keep hut guests informed of weather conditions, emergency procedures, track conditions, and anything else relevant to hiking the surrounding trails. Ben was our warden; it was his last night (having been in residence for a week) and Horse (new warden) was arriving the next day.
With just us four occupants and Ben, it was not long before our conversations turned to DOC hut and track maintenance issues: past and present adventures and even politics! The wife had very strong views and opinions on many topics!! I soon realised she and I were polar opposites politically, so it was time to bow out and retire to my bunk.
It was a very mixed night of wakefulness and sleep, thankfully I brought my earplugs!! It seemed I spend more time awake than asleep, never mind, I kept telling myself “just relax the mind and body as it is in recovery mode.”
Waihohonu Hut to Desert Road
Thursday dawned like the previous day, with very low cloud and heavy drizzle, but not to be discouraged we set off for the Desert Road 5.7 kms away. This track travels through/over the Rangipo Desert and we were surrounded by low scrub, flowering heather, and other tussock-like plants. The track surface is mainly sandy. It’s a short slightly downhill walk to Desert Road. We could hear the vehicles before we could see them.
Yes, it will be a great introductory walk for my granddaughters. NO hills just a gradual climb up to the hut. Highly recommend this hike to any beginners.
The return walk to the hut seemed so much quicker than the walkout. After a hot cup of soup some much-needed food we spent the afternoon chilling out in the hut reading and relaxing. We got the fire going early today as it was much colder today, and the hut was going to be full tonight – another 24 people!!
Ohinepango Springs
About 5 pm the cloud had lifted and the drizzle stopped we went and explored the nearby freshwater Ohinepango Springs where we were fortunate enough to see a lone Whio duck (blue duck). The water is crystal clear and bubbles up from beneath an old lava flow that flows swiftly into the Ohinepango Stream. It’s a very pleasant walk to and from these Springs.
An interesting evening was spent with the other young trampers. I’m always interested in what type of food they cook, the gear they carry, as I’m always looking for new ideas or adventures to be had. Of course, love the diversity of conversations and people!!
The hut was full so every bunk was occupied, and I’d never would have guessed but it was quieter than the previous night with only four people sleeping – what does that tell you – older people snore???
Not sure what time the first people got out of bed to pack up and leave but it was very early. By 6 am I was wide awake and said to Yvonne, “let’s get up and getting going, we’re all awake and no chance of any more sleep”, so that is what we did. We had eaten, packed up, and were on the track by 7.30 am, and guess what?
There was ice on the decking, the sky was clear, not a cloud to be seen, Mts Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe were crystal clear and majestic looking, it was magic, – oh how I love that feeling when you experience that total awesomeness of being in that alpine environment. The stillness, clean pure air, and seeing the sun rising over the distance Kaimanawa Ranges – was quite stunning. This is what living is about and why I feel so “at peace with myself and the world”. I would not want to be anywhere else in the world but right here doing exactly what I was doing. This place and time are magical.
Our walk back to Whakapapa seemed to go very quickly, we were “pumping it” so to speak. Stopping many times to admire the different views of the mountains, inhale the clean pure air, and just embrace the “now”. We passed many other hikers walking into the Waihohonu hut.
On the way out we took a short detour and visited the old original Waihohonu Hut. It was built in 1904 and well worth the visit. See the photograph below.
For our lunch stop, we found a lovely sheltered spot out of the wind looking directly at Mt Ngauruhoe while being soaked in the sun. A chance to have a ‘power nap”, see below.
Arriving back at Whakapapa and enjoying a cup of coffee, Yvonne and I reflected on our adventure – it was the best. Thank you, Yvonne, for your companionship and your willingness to join me, you are a gem. Looking forward to exploring much more of this magical environment with you.
I learned that “weather is very localised” and reinforced my belief about don’t be put off by predicted, “weather forecasts” they may never happen!
My soul and inner being felt completely replenished – life is great, bring on the next adventure. Till then – GoldCard Gal 😊
Additional scenes
Fantastic, you have once again allowed me to sit inside nice and warm and read of your wonderful adventures. I so admire your spirit Heather. Look forward to the next instalment. The grandkids are so fortunate to have a fit grandmother to plan and share special occasions with them. The memories you make together they will treasure always.
Thank you Carly of Tamahere. I think creating memories is an important part of life because they are always with you for better or worse but hopefully better. 🙂