Hiking the Heaphy Track, New Zealand

Reconnecting with a long time friend

It is Friday, 29 November, 2024 and I am sitting here in a room at the Last Resort, Karamea.  It is our rest and resupply day.

My long time friend Sari (Ngakuta Bay cycling adventure buddy) and I have just completed hiking the Heaphy Track over the last five days, four nights.  We have been blessed with great weather, mostly overcast days (ideal for hiking) and only one morning of low cloud.

Before I write about our daily adventures, I’d like to tell you about our interesting and unexpected morning we have had here in Karamea.  We had breakfast at Vinnies Cafe.   Other hikers had said they make amazing pies and you must have one.  Not normally something I would eat for breakfast, but I had to try one. It was a mince pie just out of the oven.  Pastry home-made and delicious and filled with mince and very little gravy – it was filling to say the least. Sari had a omelet fill of delicious goodies, which she highly recommends.

As we were walking back to our lodgings carrying our bags of food for the next five days, we noticed a lot of cars parked outside the local church.  There was a woman carrying a plate of blueberry muffins walking towards the church entrance.  We called “What is happening at the church this morning?”  She came over and started chatting with us.  “Oh we are having our women’s monthly morning tea get together.  Here, have one of my muffins.”  Both Sari and I chose a delicious looking blueberry muffin and popped it into our shopping bag.  After some back and forth chatter, she said “Why don’t you come and join us for a cup of tea and meet some of the local women?”  Never ones to turn down food or a cuppa we gladly accepted.  What an interesting and most enjoyable hour or so we spent with these women of all ages.  Everyone introduced themselves and told a little story about their lives and how come they live here in the Karamea area.  Each story was different but had similarities, with where they grew up, adventures they had had.  We left feeling very lucky, blessed and privileged to have meet these amazing women and hear a small segment of their lives.  That experience has left a lasting impression on us both, thank you Jill for inviting us. 🙂

Now back to our days on the track and how come we ended up here.

Why the Heaphy Track?

This adventure had been planned for some months.  Sari was returning from a year on a remote island in Vanuatu and wanted an adventure to look forward to.  I was wanting to revisit the Heaphy Track (after 50+ yrs ago I shared with hike with Joy Watson and her nursing friend) and hopefully hike the Old Ghost Road.  After a couple of conversations Sari and I agreed – let’s do it! Bookings were made and we both had an adventure to look forward too and motivate us to get ‘pack fit’.

Life is much more rewarding when you have little adventures/goals to look forward to.  I thought to myself “I could even include a little road trip on the way to the South Island.”

On my journey south I caught up with family and friends, always a rewarding and enriching experience.  I choose to sail with Bluebridge Ferries, as I felt they were more reliable, and I wasn’t disappointed.  Sari picked me up in Picton.  It had been about 20 months since we had seen each other but it felt like last month.

Collingwood & Farewell Spit

Sari, Norm (Sari’s husband and shuttle driver) and I travelled to Collingwood for two nights prior to the start of our hike.  We stayed at the Collingwood Holiday Park, a beautiful place between the sea and Ruataniwha Inlet.

On the Saturday Sari had organised for us to go on a tour of Farewell Spit with Farewell Spit Tours.  It was a 6.5 hr guided tour out to the Farewell Spit lighthouse and included visits to:

• Cape Farewell
• Fossil Point
• Sand Dune, and
• Lighthouse

It was a very memorable experience.  Our guide and commentator Allan made the trip so interesting and informative. His knowledge of both Māori and European history was remarkable.  This trip is the only way to drive along the beach to Farewell Spit lighthouse and see this remote area.  One interesting fact we learnt was that the spit is still expanding and is the most recent/newest spit in the world.  That is because of the westerly winds and sea currents.

We enjoyed an evening meal at the local hotel and then an early night to bed.

The day has arrived

D-day was an early start as we wanted to start hiking about 8 am ish.  And it was approximately 40-minute drive away.

Below is a map of the Heaphy Track and each hut we stayed in has either a red line below or above the hut name.

After a toilet stop, Norm took a ‘before’ photograph of us. We waved him good-bye and started our much anticipated adventure.

Brown Hut – Perry Saddle Hut (17.5 kms)

Today’s track was described as an ‘uphill climb’ to Perry Saddle 915 m.  It was once surveyed for a road.

At the beginning of today’s hike, both Sari and I expressed feelings of anxiety for various reasons.  My concern was how the ‘heart’ would cope with the added weight of the backpack and climbing up hill.  Sari was wondering how she would go carrying a heavy pack as it had been a while.   Thankfully the climb was gentle, with no long steep sections and Sari was happy to walk at my slower pace!!

The track was quite rocky in places and we were surrounded in second growth forest, that provided good shade.

As we hiked along the track, we heard female voices across the valley and finally meet Linda and Tori, from the Nelson area.  Sari and I felt a little snug as we never expected we’d pass anyone!!  We were to crisscross each other for the rest of the day’s hike.  Always stopping and chatting.  We also meet Barb and Feliss from Blenheim, again sharing enjoyable moments with them.  As we were all heading to Perry Saddle hut we agreed whoever arrived first at the hut to save us the bottom bunks.  We were expecting a full hut and when you need to go to the toilet during the night there is nothing worse than trying to negotiate those bunk ladders in darkness and being quiet about it!!

Perry Saddle Hut

The hut has a full-time hut warden who lives in a separate cabin. The hut has three bunkrooms, a large kitchen and dining room that included a log burner, which warmed up the hut nicely, as there was a cold wind blowing outside.  Through the kitchen windows you could see the surrounding mountains, quite beautiful.

Barb and Feliss managed to get us bottom beds in a room with only 8 bunk beds.  We had a delightful evening with Tori and Linda – hearing stories and having some good laughs.  As there is no power it was early to bed for us all. Both Sari and I slept well.

Memorable memory, the nice smelling long-drop toilets.

Perry Saddle – Saxon Hut (12.4 km)

This morning we woke up to a sunlit filled room.  No such thing as blinds in the huts which is rather nice.  We could hear the early risers out in the kitchen preparing for their day ahead.  We decided to wait until they had left the hut before we got up.

Today’s hike was across the Gouland Downs which is mainly open tussock with patches of beech.  We had two memorable experiences today:

1. seeing a whio blue duck diving under water and feeding.  We both felt quite privileged to have seen that, and
2. seeing an underground cave with an underground waterfall. Quite spectacular.

As we hiked along the track, we met four women, (hiking in the opposite direction to us) from Cambridge, Hamilton and Tauwhare, nurses at WDHB – small world eh?  We loved the interactions we had with various people on the track, even some of the mountain bikers stopped for a chat.

We found a delightful spot for lunch, out of the wind with the sun shining on our backs.  We enjoyed soaking up the environment and being in the moment.  Quite special to be sharing this adventure with a good friend, often reminiscing our past adventures.

We passed the Boot Pole with a variety of boots hanging off while crossing the Gouland Downs.  You just never know what you will see next.

Today’s hut was much smaller and older, sleeping only 16 people.  No chance of having our own girls bunk room tonight – it was four mattresses top and bottom in two separate spaces within the hut.  No chance of any privacy or silence here.

We all enjoyed a wash in a small creek not far from the hut and settled into a relaxing afternoon and evening with Tori and Linda.  These two girls could entertain us for hours about their work experiences and stories.  We thoroughly enjoyed their company.  Three mountain bike riders arrived quite late and enjoyed some of the left-over food from the ‘guided walk’ chef and tour leader.  Another early to bed night.  Gee I love these early nights.

Another nice smelling long-dop toilets.

Saxton Hut – James Mackay Hut (11.8 km)

There was no sun to be seen this morning.   When one looked east there was blue sky, looking west low cloud, visibility nil.  We debated whether to wear raincoats or not, and decided not to, we would take a chance. We were lucky.

Today’s track continued over Gouland Downs with low tussock.  It was another reasonably easy day distance wise.  But I seem to struggle physically – not sure why.

We met several cyclists riding in the opposite direction to us.  Many stopping to chat, which made our journey so much more enriching.  Generally, the track on this west side seems much more smoother under foot as opposed to what we have been experiencing on the east side where each foot step had to be selected because of the uneven, rocky base.  I would hate the ride this track, could see myself doing lots of walking.

We arrived at Mackay Hut at lunch time.  We had discussed whether to have lunch on the track or at the hut.  The hut won on this occasion, only because it was close.  We generally like to make the most of the environment at the same time enjoy something to eat by finding a nice place to take off our packs and nourish our bodies.

We have continued to enjoy Tori, Linda, Barb and Feliss company whom we met on our first day.  We’ve spent many happy hours talking, laughing and getting to know each other.  We are still sharing the same bunkroom as none of us snore!!  And, we are very selective as to whom we share our bunkroom with – actually we’re a bit naughty in that respect.

This hut is another modern DOC hut, with gas and would you believe “flush toilets!’!  You don’t even have to go outside.   That’s a first, along with some solar lights that come on at night time when you get up to go to the toilet.  The hut has three separate bunk rooms and a large dining/kitchen area.  Tonight it is filled with both hikers and cyclists.

James MacKay Hut – Heaphy Hutt (20.5 km)

“It’s 5.24, and the pot is on”  was Sari’s wake-up call for us girls: Tori, Linda Feliss, Barb and myself.  No-one answered or moved to her call for at least 10 minutes.  We wanted an early start as today’s hike was 20.5 kms, the longest so far on our hike.  Finally, we crawled out of bed and made our way out into the dining room to force down some food and have a hot drink.  Packs packed, Sari and I left at 6.50, I think we were the first out the door, so felt very pleased with ourselves.

The track surface was firm, so much smoother than the previous three days.  If you were a mountain bike rider (and you were riding from West to East)  it could be very misleading in that you could think all the trail would be like this section, but NO that is definitely not the case.

Couple of years ago the swing bridge was washed out in the floods and the Heaphy Track was closed.   They replaced one bridge with two bridges – quite impressive.  I always enjoy seeing how the swing bridge structures are secured/built into the banks or ground.

One very excited mountain bike rider stopped and told us he’d seen a kiwi on the track.  Sari said she had heard a kiwi last night, apparently, they’re seen regularly.  Quite special.

Hiking along the Heaphy river edge surrounded by nikau palms we came across a nesting pair of cormorants only feet away, how special is that?

We arrived at Heaphy hut in the early afternoon, still feeling physically good.  We chose our 8 bunk room, putting stuff on the other beds for the girls.  After sorting our sleeping arrangements we always boil the billy for a much needed cuppa and catch-up with other hikers etc.

The Heaphy Hut is located on a rise overlooking the Heaphy River mouth.

Today, we heard the most birdsong so far.  There was tui, bell bird, robin, fantail to name some of the ones I recognised.

Getting to the hut is always good, a chance to take off our packs and shoes, claim our beds and save bunk beds for the other girls.  Then enjoy a good cup of soup or cup of tea and something to eat.

We caught up and spent more time with Tori and Linda, and Barb and Feliss.  These girls have been amazing and we have so enjoyed their company, stories, discussions and many a hearty laugh.  You girls have made our Heaphy adventure very special and memorable, thank you.

We also had the company and food tasting of Chris who is a local guide, escorting Peter (from Brisbane).  Each evening Chris would cook Peter a meal, often with fresh vegetables and other delicious ingredients compared to our freeze dry meals.  What food was left over, Chris would offer to us girls.  We all enjoyed his left-overs.

Most nights people were in bed by 9 pm or thereabouts.  All tired from their adventures.

Heaphy Hut – Kohaihai Shelter (16.5 km)

Today was our last day on the track.  We felt a little sad to think our Heaphy adventure was coming to an end.  No more chilling out with other hikers, absorbing the surroundings and realising the only things we had to think about was where too the next day and what food to eat.  Life is pretty simple and uncomplicated on the track.

Today’s hike was along the West Coast heading south on a compacted sand based path, that ran along side and at times quite close to the ocean.  We were often surrounded by Nikau palm trees, giving a sense of a topical climate.

We had no time constraints today, so we enjoyed many a conversation with various people on the track.  We ended our hike about 12.30 ish.

While waiting for Barb and Feliss to arrive we enjoyed our final track lunch, all the while fighting off the sandflies.  I’m not sure what insect repellant is 100% effective against them. Feliss had offered us a ride back to Karamea via Oparara arches because her good friend Barb had never seen them and nor had we.  The arches were formed millions of years ago by the Oparara River and there is a good deal of history associated to these arches.  It is quite a drive along a metal road, but worth the time – they are special.

It was a very fitting way to end our adventure.  It was made all the more special by the people we have meet and interacted with.  A special thank you to Tori and Linda, and Barb and Feliss, both Sari and I enjoyed your company!

Would I recommend the Heaphy Track?  Definitely YES, just do it!

That is it from Karamea.  On Sunday Sari and I start hiking the Old Ghost Road from Seddonville down to Lyell.  Am I feeling a little apprehensive – yes.  So what, I keep reminding myself:

“If you think you can, or you think you can’t, either way you are right.”

Till next time, take care out there, GoldCard Gal 🙂

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