Hiking around Mt Ruapehu

What a memorable adventure; five nights and six days exploring the slopes of Mt Ruapehu. The landscape, terrain, and tracks were diverse.  We experienced a different environment every day and looking down below over the surrounding countryside were some of the many highlights of this adventure.

We were often surrounded and protected by the bush, then be carefully scrambling up exposed rock faces, cautiously treading and climbing/descending steep scoria and scree slopes, to boulder hopping, not to mention the river and stream crossings we negotiated carefully and successfully.  You name it, we did it. and we all felt very proud of our achievements.

Companions

My companions on this adventure were my tried and tested hiking buddy Yvonne and one of my cycling friends (an experienced hiker) Maureen.

Day One:  Whakapapa Village to Whakapapiti Hut  ( 3hrs – 8.5 km)

We meet at the Information Centre, Whakapapa Village at 1 pm on Tuesday 7^th February, 2023.  Here we brought hut tickets(four), a car parking ticket, and checked out river levels etc.

It was a short hike today, three hours up to Whakapapiti Hut (18 bunks) through beech forest, along boardwalks, over boggy swamps with alpine views and fleeting glimpses of Mt Ruapehu – quite stunning. Between us, there was a feeling of excitement and anticipation about the days ahead.

First river crossing

Before we knew it, we had to boulder hop over to our first major river crossing, the Whakapapiti River. It had sections of very swift-flowing water and plenty of rocks to navigate.  By squeezing our arms behind each other’s backs and clinging to their outside pack straps, we slowly shuffled our feet along the bottom of the uneven riverbed and navigated this crossing successfully.  What was surprising for me, I didn’t even feel nervous – that’s a first!! It was a quick “high five” before heading up the hill to the hut and that refreshing cuppa.

The sight of the hut is always a welcome sight.  We were a little surprised to see a pair of dry boots already leaning against the wall.  We found out later that Peter had taken off his boots before crossing the river – hence the dry boots.

The hut was roomy, with a fireplace in the middle of the room, a couple of stainless-steel benches, running water (a bonus), and a long dining table with two long wooden bench seats.  It had two sleeping areas, us girls took the separate bunk room for ourselves.

There was a good supply of wood both inside the hut and outside in the woodshed. We didn’t need a fire that night.

Long-drop toilets

Long-drop toilets play an important part in any backcountry hut experience.  Often they can be smelly and not at all pleasant, but this Vault toilet was not smelly, had great ventilation, and even had a ‘tiled’ floor.

Our hut companion for the night was Peter also from Hamilton.  He was very quiet and kept to himself until later in the evening when Taan arrived (she’s Australian, doing her PhD in the Netherlands and over in NZ for 10 days) then Peter very much came alive!!

We spent the evening chatting, enjoying our dinner, and completing crosswords and sudoku.  An early night to bed for

Day Two: Whakapapiti Hut  – Mangaturuturu Hut  (10.5 km – 8 ½hrs)

The suggested time for this section was 5½ hrs. This was our toughest and longest day.  Guess mainly because the track was unmaintained and rough, we had to watch every step, we had heavy packs and we’re three 70 + yrs. old grannies!!  We crossed many streams and therefore had wet feet all day.  The odd shower of cold rain and low cloud would pass through which required raincoats to be worn and then a little later to be removed.  It was a case of “coats on, coats off” which all takes time.

During one of our many conversations, we decided that one of the benefits of hiking is it forces you to use your body in ways you would never do in your daily life at home.  We had to haul ourselves up and over slippery dirt banks, rocks, and tree roots, and try to skirt the slippery descents. A good overall body workout!

One more river to cross before we finally saw the roof of Mangaturuturu Hut.  Oh, the relief – it had been a long tough day!

Peter (our hut companion of the previous night) was already there.  And it wasn’t long before he had the pot belly fire roaring (it helps to have dry firewood).  This enabled us to dry out our wet socks, shoes, and clothing.

Anton arrived exhausted. He was on a time schedule missing every 2^nd hut.  He camped outside the hut under the beech trees. We also meet another young man doing some big mileage and they both said, “we’d like to come back and do this hike at a slower pace!”  Sometimes I wonder about their thinking.

The only good thing about this hut’s toilet was the walk to it – a lovely spongy underfoot path through the beech forest.

This hut was built by Wanganui Tramping Club in 1950s.  It sleeps 10 people and has one small stainless-steel bench under the aluminum windows, a wooden table, and two long seats.  Water was from the small tank outside and a recent addition of a conservatory-type room.  Perhaps they starting to get more hikers passing through.

Beautiful craftsmanship

Outside the hut facing the Cascade Falls and Mt Ruapehu (that we couldn’t see) someone from the Wanganui Tramping Club had made this curved wooden seat.  What was special about it, there were no nails used, just wooden dowels – it was beautiful.

Day Three:  Mangaturuturu Hut  – Mangaehuehu Hut (12.5km – 6+ hrs)

As we left the hut, we could clearly see in the distance our first challenge for the day – the Mangaturuturu Rapids (that include The Cascade Falls). They were partly covered in low clouds and looked daunting!!

I guess I was feeling a little apprehensive because my friend Denise had spoken many times about these falls and how frightening they were for her.  So, her story played in the back of my mind!!!

But as usual, when I was confronted with the volcanic rock climb, it wasn’t near as daunting as I’d let my mind imagine.  Sure, I had to be careful and make sure I had strong foot placement on the rock outcrops and climb slowly up. I was just thankful we weren’t descending these rocks!!

Yvonne and Peter (who had now decided to join us for the morning) did a great job leading the way.  There was only one “out of comfort zone” experience – crossing the rapids above the waterfall.  There were moments of hesitation for both Maureen and me about placing our feet in the swift current and crossing. Oh, the relief when safely across the other side without slipping!!

Additional info about falls

As the river cascades over the volcanic rocks, it coats them with a white lining substance called “allophone”.   This allophone is precipitated from water fed by springs enriched with CO2 that enters the groundwater system from a geothermal source. (This is one of only two locations in NZ where this occurs.)

In the thick cloud and light rain, we continued to climb upwards toward the Ohakune Mountain Road. It was then a couple of kilometers walk down the road to the Mangaehuehu track.

The track to Mangaehuehu hut was initially in a dense mountain beech forest (beautiful and sheltered) and then open scrub-like terrain.

It was a complete surprise and quite unexpected to come across a very long boardwalk.  They are always welcome. The boardwalks help protect the wetlands/environment and make walking easygoing.

Today we experienced four seasons in one day, so seeing the hut was a relief and very welcome.  I’m beginning to think that is one of my favourite parts of the day!  Would you agree with this?

A shirt was draped over the high pampas-like grass, a pair of socks resting on the wooden veranda floor drying out along with a pair of boots.  Jonty was already settled in, and I think pleased to see us.  It wasn’t long before we had sorted out his and our history – he used to work at Wintec in the design department in the early 2000s!!  Small world.

As the warm sun was shining onto the veranda, it wasn’t long before our shoes and socks were lined up beside Jonty’s and we all enjoyed the warmth and companionship over the cuppa.

The views from this hut were impressive, from the Ohakune area around to Waiouru and Lake Moawhango including the huge Karioi forestry.

This 18-bed hut even had a separate two-bunk room, which Yvonne and Maureen chose.  None of us are keen to sleep on the top bunks anymore because of the need to go to the toilet during the night and who wants to climb down a ladder (if there is one) in the dark?

No running water inside this hut, just the two stainless steel benches for cooking on and storing our food bags etc.  Water was available outside from a small tank. The toilet was OK, nothing of any note to report here.

By the time we had boiled our billy again we were joined by four other hikers that night – going the opposite direction to us and all having their own adventure.  Some like to socialise, some don’t.  Another early night to bed for reading and rest.

Day Four:  Mangaehuehu Hut – Rangipo Hut (9 kms – 5 hrs)

Today we are heading towards the desert landscape part of the hike.  Slowing climbing from 1285 meters up to 1556 meters.  We’d been told there were a couple of steep scoria/scree ascents and descents!  “Steep scoria/scree slopes are not words I like to hear; my imagination goes into overdrive! I keep telling myself – just wait and see!”

Initially, the track was in and out of the bush, crossing many small gullies.   Finally, all we saw was an open landscape with volcanic rocks everywhere, no vegetation in sight – quite spectacular.

Before we knew it, we were standing on the edge of a very deep and steep gully with a swing bridge at the bottom, crossing the Wahianoa River.  We squinted our eyes trying to find the orange track markers on the opposite gully edge but couldn’t find any.  Oh, my goodness, what are we in for?

Descending into this deep gully along a very narrow rock/scree slope was one of those times you concentrated and carefully placed every footstep!  It’s always a little confidence boost when you achieve a safe descent, but where are those orange markers?  Just where we hoped they wouldn’t be.  Straight up the cliff – thank goodness we weren’t coming down this steep slope.

Rangipo Hut – 20 bunks

As the dark heavy clouds surrounded us and big cold droplets of rain started to fall, we came upon the Rangipo Hut.  It was perched high up on the left of the track and the toilet was even further up!  It overlooked the Desert Road with the Kaimanawa mountains as a backdrop in the east.  In the distance, you could see vehicles travelling along the SH1.  What a welcome sight.

Thank goodness a load of mostly wet firewood rounds had been delivered by helicopter the day before.  And thank goodness there was an ordinary axe that I could lift as the heavy splitting axe that I could hardly swing.  Eventually, I managed to split enough wood and kindling and get the fire going (thank goodness for old bike tire tubes, they burn slowly enabling the fire to ignite the kindling).  So when Peter arrived wet and cold he was very grateful for the fire.  He did split more wood which enabled us to dry clothes and have a warm cozy cabin.  it’s colder at that altitude.

Later in the evening, we were joined by two young couples:  Finnish and German.  They also were wet and cold.  They were over here for three months trying to see as much of the country as they could.  So, an interesting evening was spent chatting, etc.

Day 5:  Rangipo Hut – Waihohonu Hut (5 hrs 40 – 12.5 km)

What a view from this Rangipo hut – the sunrise was magnificent.  What a way to start the day! It was exactly where I wanted to be – how lucky am I?

Today the terrain continued very much like yesterday, barren with volcanic rock, fine scoria, and sand.  We all felt privileged to be able to explore this area.

It was cold and wet as we hiked through a river valley known as a lahar (volcanic mudflow path) with strong worded warning signs on each side of the valley.  It included this narrow swing bridge below.

We wondered about a four-wheel drive road we crossed.  Where it went to.  Later learned it was Tukino Mountain Road which leads up to the Tukino ski field.  You see the sign to this ski field as your drive down SH1.

Days getting easier

The days were getting easier physically and we were hiking faster.  Always fascinating how the body adjusts to the demands we place on it.  It does help though to have lighter packs and easier terrain.

Waihohonu Hut

We arrived early afternoon at Waihohonu Hut to see many people outside eating their lunch and enjoying the sunshine.  We were back to civilisation again.  Hand soap, toilet paper, hot water, and gas cooking facilities – what more could you ask for?

This Waihohonu hut is part of the popular Tongariro Northern Circuit route.  The setting of this hut is quite beautiful.  You can see Mt Ngauruhoe out the front windows.  It is also only a short distance from the Desert Road which makes it an ideal destination for young children – an introduction to the outdoors.  There were a couple of families with very young children who had walked in and stayed the night.

In luck!

This hut is very popular, and tickets must be pre-booked. Maureen was unable to get a booking, so she ended up with a ‘tent site’ booking. Hence, she had to carry a tent.  The camping ground is surrounded by beech trees and is located next to a stream.  To cut a long story short Yvonne had spoken to the hut warden “Ritchie” (who knew/worked with Yvonne’s cousin or something similar) on arrival and asked if there was a chance of any unutilised bookings  – if so, could Maureen be first on the list?  Later in the evening, we were informed Maureen was in luck.  (It’s not what you know, it’s who you know!) With a team effort, we soon had Maureen’s tent down and belongings brought up to the hut.

The evening speech by Ritchie (hut warden) informed everyone of the approaching cyclone, to expect higher than average winds the next day and everyone should be heading back to their vehicles wherever they were parked.

With this information we three were in bed early, resting our bodies, reading, reflecting on our own adventures, and planning on an early start the following morning.  Sunday was our last day on the track.

Days 6:  Waihohonu Hut – Whakapapa Village (15.4 km – 5 hrs)

Another stunning morning – clear views of Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe.

We were keen to get moving before the winds got too strong.  We also had 3 + hrs of driving to do – hopefully getting home before the rain and wind arrived.

It’s an easy track back to Whakapapa Village, the track is well-maintained and easy to follow.  This was probably our easiest and fastest day.  The clouds came and went over both mountains.  You got the feeling we were in for some rough weather.  We felt the winds increase in speed and were glad we were heading home.  We even saw Mt Taranaki in the distance – see below.  The top is under a cloud.

We meet many day hikers going to visit the Tama Lakes, a very popular out-and-back hike from Whakapapa Village.  If you haven’t seen them, they are worth a visit.

We arrived back at our cars soon after 12 mid-day.  Now, just to find a much-needed hot coffee and something to eat.

Thankfully we found the Whakapapa Village Campground had a food cart that offered a variety of takeaway food and drinks.  Maureen and I enjoyed a thick cheese, pineapple, and ham toasted sandwich and Yvonne had a breakfast burger special – both options were delicious.  The coffee was not too bad either.  We were three happy and contented souls.

Reflections

While we enjoyed our lunch and coffee together we reflected on our adventure:

• We were lucky with the weather.
• The huts were great – all huts except Waihohonu were “first come, first served”.
• It’s still open for debate whether to travel clockwise or anti-clockwise around the mountain.
• We all had moments of ‘out of our comfort zone’ experiences. This a good sign because those ‘out-of-comfort zone’ experiences increase your comfort zone!!
• We were thankful we had no mishaps and finished without any injuries or blisters.
• We were thankful for our strong bodies and I guess you could also add mental toughness/resilience.
• We got along well and started thinking about the next adventure together.

What’s next?

Maureen to going on a three-week South Island cycling adventure with friends leaving on 22 February. Yvonne and I are heading toward the Nelson Lakes area on 24^th February to explore.  Here’s hoping for good weather and safe adventures.

If you have hiked round-the-mountain track, I would love to hear about your experience.  Did you hike clockwise or anti-clockwise? And of course, I am open to any “next adventure” suggestions you may have.

Till next time, take care out there, GoldCard Gal 😊

Additional scenes