We arrived here in Courmayeur, on 26 August for four nights. It is a stylist mountain town in amongst the Mt Blanc massif. It is truly magnificent. The shopping centre is beautifully laid out with narrow cobbled streets with many small boutique type shops, including numerous outdoor clothing shops. Plenty of selection for the ‘label’ fans.
Tracy and I are both enjoying our rest day today. Sleeping in and taking it slowly. We booked a trip up on the Skyway gondola– it was exciting. A must do if you are ever here. The views were breathtaking and the design of the whole system a magnificent feat of engineering. As we travelled up and down, the gondola slowly rotated 360 degrees.
Back to the start
We started our adventure in Les Houches with a cable car ride. It was exciting with the car jammed packed full of hikers. We didn’t start hiking until 10 am and got to our destination about 5.30 pm that evening. We both were shattered – it was a hot day with the long up-hills and seeming never-ending downhills.
Surprises
Rather than give a day by day description of our hiking, I thought it more interesting to write about our experiences and/or surprises.
The daily temperatures – ranging between 23 – 28 degrees. Jolly hard going with the sun beating down on us, with little or no wind. AND we are tired! Plus our lily white bodies are not used to the intense sun or heat!! We are slowly getting a little tan!
We have been surprised at the number of people hiking the trail – there are 100’s. Some on guided tours, some like us unguided and many back-packing it. All doing different routes and staying at different accommodation – quite interesting. Freedom camping is not permitted in Italy – a possible 500€ fine if caught.
Trail running seems very popular over here and there are many of them on the trail. They are lean, fit and sun-tanned. They are lite and nimble on their feet and seem to glide past – a little deflating for a ‘tortoise” like me! Many of these runners are often accompanied by their dog. Which has also surprised us is the number of dogs everywhere, on the gondolas,, in the shops and buses, big, small and in-between sizes.
When I saw this man and his horse again yesterday I realised he could be carrying peoples luggage between Refugio’s. We had seem him the previous day on another trail. That poor horse had a huge load on yesterday! An interesting job.
The tracks have been well defined and firm under foot. Very little loose gravel and the rock is non-slippery.
Another highlight was crossing Col de la Croix (2480m). As we scrambled our way up to the Col we could hear the sounds of a concertina – no idea of where the music was coming from until we saw this young women sitting on top of a large rock playing. It was quite surreal and unexpected to hear music in that environment. Not far from where she was sitting was a large France Alpine Club building, perhaps she was staying there?
Using local transport
Some days start with a bus trip to the start of the trail. While initially we thought this would be annoying it has worked out as a bonus, because we get to see and experience more of the local area. The same goes for the end of a trail day, again catching local transport to our accommodation. All this transport is free. One day we even caught a chairlift and gondola down. The Courmayeur area has chairlifts and gondolas everywhere – it’s a very popular ski destination in winter. We have got to see how patient the locals are at driving and giving way on the many very narrow hair-pin winding roads. The bus or oncoming traffic often having to reverse to let traffic through. Have even seen a few speed bumps!!
Accommodation and food
Our accommodation has been excellent, generally twin beds with an ensuite shower and toilet. It is soo good to have a hot shower and evening meal provided after a long day on the trail. Even though here in Courmayeur at the Crampton Hotel we have to eat out every night as they only provide breakfast. These breakfasts are the like small banquets! Shame my appetite has not been what it usually is!!
We have enjoyed a varied selection of French cuisine – all beautifully prepared and appreciated by all. Our meal times together have been one of the highlights so far. Each night a different group of people with much laughter, joking and banter.
The night we stayed in Les Chapieux we meet a competitor in the up-incoming ultra Tour De Mont Blanc. He was very interesting and has done many ultras before. They have 46 hrs and so many minutes to complete the 170 km trail. They start Friday night in Chamonix. Cannot imagine running through the night over some of the tracks we have hiked. His husband is a Columbian and was such fun to be around. Tracy asked him “What will you be doing while your husband is running?” his response was “Eating cheese and drinking wine.” Said with a big smile. They both were delightful and we certainly enjoyed their company.
Tomorrow we move into Switzerland. It’s another big day with a long climb. Tracy will be doing that on her own as I’m currently experiencing extreme breathlessness (like never before and in contact with my Dr) along with constant nausea and a chest cough – not much fun but still loving our adventure and experiences. Trying to get to see a Dr, when and where will be interesting.
That is it at present. Thank you for your feedback. I always enjoy reading your comments.
Have a wonderful adventure The Morgans!
Go Team NZ – I hear they have had a mishap with their boat – oops!! 🙁 Go the All Blacks! Till next time.
Michaela Nell Phillips says
So have you taken any wrong turns yet? How many days have you been walking and how many more to go. Will you be able to get transport to the places Tracey walks to. So sad to hear you are struggling. So happy you made it there tho. Those bloody hills look narly as!!
GoldCard Gal says
Thank you for your comments and feedback. Today was day 10 of 13. Today was my best day so far. I felt like eating during our hike, my breathing was pretty good, Nausea and diarrhea gone! Just have coughing bouts otherwise all good. Weather bit cooler today also. Life is looking great. Switzerland is beautiful. 🙂
Margaret Jenkins says
Thanks for the read and magic photos. Great to have Tracey beside you too. Look forward to hearing that you are ok. Go well. X M
Ben says
What a wonderful trip Heather,great food, great weather, great friendly people, what more could you want?
Your health issue does need some urgent attention, I hope you can get some, sooner eathet than later!!!
Barbera Lucia says
Sounds like an amazing trip with an amazing adventurer who’s unstoppable and will soldier on..
Love barb n pats
Anne says
Hi Heather, thanks for the update. Your trip sounds fantastic.
I hope you start feeling better. Please take care.
Kay(Brooke's sis) says
Its wonderful to hear of this adventure, Heather. Country lifestyles, full of history and culture. Away from the Hurley Burley of cities. You take care, now and jeep enjoying.
Fran says
Hi Heather
So good to read about your fabulous adventure with Tracey. We are concerned about your health though.
Ben and I went to the top of Mt Blanc from Chamonix. I am not sure this the same as you did or not. It was totally amazing. Could you be affected by the altitude?
Take care
Love Fran
Maureen Foulds says
Great to hear from you. I hope you can sort out your health problems and continue your journey. New Hamilton Bridge open day today. I walked over it… and got a little bit wet…
Karen says
Absolutely magnificent Heather, a memory for all time. So sorry to hear about your breathing issues though. Hope you can see a Dr there and get some relief. Just being in those stunning mountains and villages and sharing the adventure with Tracy is truly remarkable. Take care and thanks for sharing … maybe you could join the husband for wine and cheese 🥂
Carollyn Lorraine Rolley says
Thank you so much for the beautiful pictures Heather and Tracy what an amazing part of the world. Hopefully by now you have managed to see a doctor with some sound advice. Look after yourself, as I am sure you will, kick back and enjoy the time together and the beautiful surroundings. Have the ABs game recorded for tomorrow morning so fingers crossed they play a good game. Weather here still wet and cold with thunder and lightening, first day of spring tomorrow so looking forward to some sunshine in this part of the world. Hugs from us both.
Estelle says
Wow. What a wonderful adventure and fabulous photos. I hop e you get to a doctor soon. Life is no fun if you can’t breathe.