Haast “on the edge of the wilderness”

It seems days since we were in Haast!  My apologies for the delay, it’s getting the time and Internet connection to be able to post my blogs.  Now at Miller’s Flat on Clutha Gold Trail, more on this later (27 February, 2018).

Pine Gove Motels – Haast township (94 kms)

16 February, 2018.  It sure did rain during the night, along with the predicted thunder and lightening – oh to be inside.  It was still pouring down in the morning as we packed out bags wondering what to do.  Both Sari and I said “let’s do it” the weather forecast is predicted to clear later in the day and after all “you can’t get any wetter than wet”.

Off we rode out onto the main road towards Haast.  Sure enough it wasn’t long before the rain stopped and we had to start taking our wet weather gear off.  It was stunning riding along the road, surrounded mostly be bush.  We stopped for my usual morning coffee – this time at Salmon Cafe.  Muffin delicious – can’t say the same about the coffee.  Never mind it’s the rest that is important.

We had lunch beside Lake Moeraki, a delightful lake beside the main road.  While eating lunch several people stopped off to take photos of the lake and of course have a chat.  Always interesting the people you meet!  We have got into the habit of always boiling the billy for lunch to make a hot cup of soup, which really seems to recharge us for the afternoon’s physical activity.

Lunch stop – Lake Moeraki- Sari boiling the billy

At Knights Point I had this gentleman with a slight Irish accent come up to me and ask “Did I know a Sari?”  So I quickly pointed her out to him.  A very happy reunion took place.  Grieg and Sari had meet last year near Bridge to Nowhere in North Island when he and Sari were on different cycling adventures.  He was over here visiting NZ with his son from Dublin.  What are the chances of that happening??

Haast township was a very welcome sight.  It had been a long day 9 hrs since we left in the morning.   The only accommodation we could get was a motel – so we pampered ourselves to two nights of luxury accommodation (to us) and a rest day.

Haast Rest day

17 February, 2018.  Didn’t do much today it was great to chill out and catch up on washing, go for walk and we meet up again with Deny our Canadian/french cyclist whom we first meet south of Hokitika.  We all went out for a great dinner at a restaurant in Haast – can’t remember the name – the lamb shanks were most delicious.

Haast to other side of Haast (74 kms)

18 February, 2018.  We listened to the rain pouring down during the night – not really wanting to know it was time to get up.  At 6.30 Sari woke us with a cup of tea.  When I refer to ‘us” we had an extra visitor sharing our room at Heritage Park Motels.  We meet Deny just south of Hokitika, shared room with him in Franz Joseph and last night we meet him again in Haast.  As he couldn’t get any accommodation we invited him to share our room.  He’s a French/Canadian cyclist taking a year off and touring various parts of the world.  He’s great company and always happy to give a hand.  He was cycling to Wanaka.   Sari & I cycling over the Haast until we find a campsite somewhere in the bush.  Which is where I’m writing now.  We have a fabulous site in amongst the beech forest, can still hear the road, but the traffic noise has reduced considerably.

The cycle over the Haast was stunning, and because of the heavy rain during the night there were many waterfalls and high flowing streams.  The bush was beautiful, it was so peaceful riding up the valley with the Haast River on our left below road level until about 11 am.  Then the camper vans, buses and tourists started, it is mind blowing the number of people visiting here.  Riding the Haast isn’t that bad except for about 2 – 3 kms of very steep gradient – walking and push/pulling our bikes.  We meet up with Deny a couple of times today having breaks.  Not sure we’ll see him again.

When we got to the top of the major climb in the Haast Pass Sari stopped to chat to the road workers, (we both had acknowledged earlier in the morning what a fantastic job they do, clearing the slips etc and keeping the road clear).  She said “we think you do a great job looking after the roads”.  The older workman’s response was “Those weren’t the words I was expecting to come out of your mouth after you have just struggled up one of the steepest stretches of roads in NZ, but thank you.”

At the top of Haast we had a very welcome lunch of soup, crackers and cheese.  It was quiet cold so we thought we’d have a quick walk to the summit to see where the Haast and Makaroa rivers start on each side of the range.  When we returned we meet two Australian cyclists – brother and sister.  We’d seen their bikes earlier in the day and both Sari and I immediately thought “young Germans”, flash bikes with all the gear.  What a surprise we got when we actually meet the riders face to face.   She was 69 and not sure how old her brother was but Sari got her life story within the first 5 minutes – she’s not actually a cyclist but supporting her brother who had recently lost his wife to suicide.  Had to take our hats off to her, she was doing really well.  There is an instant camaraderie when you meet other cyclists.  Everyone always keen to hear where you’re going and where you’ve come from, etc etc.

Sari is already in bed 7 pm and I’m about to get into my sleep bag and hopefully finish my book.  It will be a cool night so good to zip up my bag and be cosy and warm.  Tomorrow Wanaka here we come. 🙂

Just over Haast to Wanaka 81kms

We had a fabulous campsite in the beech forest close to a river.  Slept well but had a possum visitor.  As it was slightly drizzling we had a later start about 8.30.  Stopped off for coffee down at Makaroa cafe and then headed towards Lake Hawea.  Strong head wind, raining and getting colder – it was hard work.  No lake views today, which was disappointing. By the time we arrived at Lake Hawea we were cold, wet and in need of something hot.

We followed the cycle trail from Lake Hawea through to Wanaka what a fabulous ride.  Sari needed to stop to do some maintenance on her bike and it was then I checked for cell phone coverage and was lucky enough to retrieve messages.  Les (brother in Cromwell) had phoned so I immediately phoned and Carol (sister-in-law)  insisted on coming to Wanaka to pick us up because of the impending cyclone Gita.  This was the first time we had heard about a possible cyclone.  Being out of cell phone coverage for the past few days doesn’t help.  We had tried to get indoor accommodation in Wanaka but no luck.  It was great seeing Carol and being in their warm home with the fire going and being well looked after.  Certainly beats putting up and sleeping in a wet tent.  Oh we slept well, knowing we were safe with nowhere to go the next day.

Cromwell  – rest day

21 February.  Cromwell only had rain and little wind during Cyclone Gita.  We had a lovely relaxing day with Les and Carol.  Les took us for a guided tour in the car around Cromwell and we meet Carol for lunch at the Forage, a cafe and information centre.  Cromwell is a great little town, l had never visited it before and found it had a great feel.   We restocked our supplies ready for the next few big days.  Les helped us plan a proposed route for the coming week or so.

Visited Bannockburn

22 February.  Woke up to snow on the surrounding hills of Cromwell – gee it is stunning and a little chilly!  With another leisure day it’s probably a good time for reflection.  The contrast in landscape from West Coast to Central Otago is the opposite, from lush dense bush to dry barren ridges, many with vineyards – such a contrast. The speed of the traffic is faster and much more traffic than West Coast.  We are proud of our journey so far, the progress we have made and the amazing experiences we have had.  Sari & I reckon we are pretty good travelling companions and looking forward to the next 3 – 4 weeks.

Sari & I cycled out to Bannockburn to check out the gold sluicing areas and have a coffee.  I had my best ever coffee (on this trip) at Black Rabbit Kitchen & Café in Bannockburn.  It was just about as good as what Tina makes at River Kitchen in Hamilton.  Delightful little cafe.

After our walk around the gold sluicing area we visited Desert Heart winery for lunch a platter which Sari so kindly shouted.  It was superb sitting outside overlooking Cromwell, Dunstan Lake, and surrounding hills which had a light covering of snow.  It was a perfect day.

It’s been great spending time with Les & Carol and catching up.  Family is important especially so I think as we get older!  I wonder why that is?  Perhaps it’s because we acknowledge our time here is limited (so to speak), we are more accepting and forgiving as we get older and we accept our siblings as they are??  What are your thoughts?

We are off to Queenstown tomorrow to start our ride over Walter Peak Station – can’t wait.  That is it until next time.  Goldcard gal 🙂