Tour de Mt Blanc

Today it is pouring down with rain, with the occasional thunder & lightening strikes, so definitely no hiking today.  Having said that it is a relief as I am still recovering from yesterday’s brutal 10 km down  hill hike over rocks, clinging onto chains and having to be mindful of every step downhill!!

To start the day we had two amazing gondola rides.  We decided whenever possible we would take a gondola or chairlift – because where else do you get to experience these amazing feats of engineering.

When riding these cars I don’t look down, take slow deep breaths and try and think logically about the chance of them falling or whatever else the mind can come up with.  Tracy got a little vertigo and had side effects all day hiking down hill.

Switzerland

When I last posted we were moving into Switzerland.  Tracy had a long walk (18 kms) over from Italy by herself.  She said when she crossed into Switzerland and looked back down the long valley, she could see where she had crossed from France into Italy.  While she was hiking I was being driven around to La Fouly.  It was a long 6.5 hr. car ride, as I was having another day off.  This proved to be exactly what I should have been doing. I tried to make the most of this unplanned journey admiring the scenery and country-side passing many road cyclists riding some of the big climbs with support vehicles coming up the rear.

Swiss landscape & buildings

Seeing and experiencing the different landscapes has been a highlight for us.  This day’s hike was from La Fouly to Champex-Lac.  It was also the day the ultra TMB event was passing through. By the time they passed us many had already been running for 14 odd hrs, of course there were those runners who had already gone through earlier.  They are another field of athlete with their physically and mentally capabilities.  We gave them verbal encouragement which many acknowledged.

The little Swiss villages seemed very old – bit like medieval wooden buildings but with beautiful flower-filled boxes and narrow winding roads.  Everything spotlessly clean.  This was our easiest day on the trail, and I enjoyed a short hike of 10 Km to see how the body coped.  Tracy hiked the full route in the blazing hot sun – being continuously passed by ultra runners!  I walked then caught a bus to our accommodation.

Hiking through much of the Swiss country-side you could constantly hear the cow bells ringing as the cattle ate the grass or made any slight movement.

Accommodation highlight – Champex-Lac

Hotel Splendide, Champex-Lac has been the best accommodation we have had.  Tracy described it as ‘old alpine luxury’ and it was.  The food was delicious, and we were waited on.  I felt posh!!

I had the best night’s sleep so far on this trip, woke refreshed and ready tackle the new day.  It was the best day on the trail for me, no real breathing issues, nausea and diarrhea gone AND I felt like eating while hiking.

The trail through the rest of Switzerland was enjoyable, plenty of ups and downs and still busy with many hikers.

Paragliding over Chamonix

When we first arrived in Chamonix we saw many paragliders floating high up above us and Tracy decided it was something she wanted to do when we returned to Chamonix.  I was reluctant until I spoke to a woman (from Hobart) in Trient (Switzerland) that changed my mind.

We fulfilled that adventure.   And what an experience it was, floating for approximately 20 minutes, 1,000 m above Chamonix valley, looking directly across to Aiguille du Midi, Mont-Blanc, and its glaciers.  It was stunning and while I wasn’t totally relaxed I enjoyed the experience.  My instructor Gerry was very cool and calm.  He has visited NZ and loved paragliding out at Raglan – small world eh?  In case you are interested here is a link to their website Paragilding in Chamonix.

We have been extremely lucky with the weather especially so as the last couple of days have been cold and wet.

My apologies this post is a little disjointed!  I’m still quite tired and just want to get something out before I start travelling in Germany.

Geneva

We have left France and currently in Geneva for one night before Tracy travels to Hamburg and I travel to Offenburg.  We meet up again in Munich 13th September and fly home on 15 September.

Reflections

I feel as though I need time to reflect on our adventure and get my thoughts in order before I post my reflections.

In the mean time go the ABs on Saturday night!!  Till next time, take care – GoldCard Gal 🙂

Scenes from the last few days

We arrived here in Courmayeur, on 26 August for four nights. It is a stylist mountain town in amongst the Mt Blanc massif.  It is truly magnificent.  The shopping centre is beautifully laid out with narrow cobbled streets with many small boutique type shops, including numerous outdoor clothing shops.  Plenty of selection for the ‘label’ fans.

Tracy and I are both enjoying our rest day today.  Sleeping in and taking it slowly. We booked a trip up on the  Skyway gondola– it was exciting.  A must do if you are ever here.  The views were breathtaking and the design of the whole system a magnificent feat of engineering.  As we travelled up and down, the gondola slowly rotated 360 degrees.

Back to the start

We started our adventure in Les Houches with a cable car ride.  It was exciting with the car jammed packed full of  hikers.  We didn’t start hiking until 10 am and got to our destination about 5.30 pm that evening.  We both were shattered –  it was a hot day with the long up-hills and seeming never-ending downhills.

Surprises

Rather than give a day by day description of our hiking, I thought it more interesting to write about our experiences and/or surprises.

The daily temperatures – ranging between 23 – 28 degrees.  Jolly hard going with the sun beating down on us, with little or no wind. AND we are tired!  Plus our lily white bodies are not used to the intense sun or heat!!  We are slowly getting a little tan!

We have been surprised at the number of people hiking the trail – there are 100’s.  Some on guided tours, some like us unguided and many back-packing it.   All doing different routes and staying at different accommodation – quite interesting.  Freedom camping is not permitted in Italy – a possible 500€ fine if caught.

Trail running seems very popular over here and there are many of them on the trail.  They are lean, fit and sun-tanned.  They are lite and nimble on their feet and seem to glide past – a little deflating for a ‘tortoise” like me!  Many of these runners are often accompanied by their dog.  Which has also surprised us is the number of dogs everywhere, on the gondolas,, in the shops and buses, big, small and in-between sizes.

When I saw this man and his horse again yesterday I realised he could be carrying peoples luggage between  Refugio’s.  We had seem him the previous day on another trail.  That poor horse had a huge load on yesterday!  An interesting job.

The tracks have been well defined and firm under foot. Very little loose gravel and the rock is non-slippery.

Another highlight was crossing Col de la Croix (2480m).  As we scrambled our way up to the Col we could hear the sounds of a concertina – no idea of where the music was coming from until we saw this young women sitting on top of a large rock playing.  It was quite surreal and unexpected to hear music in that environment.  Not far from where she was sitting was a large France Alpine Club building, perhaps she was staying there?

Using local transport

Some days start with a bus trip to the start of the trail.  While initially we thought this would be annoying it has worked out as a bonus, because we get to see and experience more of the local area.  The same goes for the end of a trail day, again catching local transport to our accommodation.  All this transport is free.  One day we even caught a chairlift and gondola down.  The Courmayeur area has chairlifts and gondolas everywhere – it’s a very popular ski destination in winter.  We have got to see how patient the locals are at driving and giving way on the many very narrow hair-pin winding roads.  The bus or oncoming traffic often having to reverse to let traffic through.  Have even seen a few speed bumps!!

Accommodation and food

Our accommodation has been excellent, generally twin beds with an ensuite shower and toilet.  It is soo good to have a hot shower and evening meal provided after a long day on the trail.  Even though here in Courmayeur at the Crampton Hotel we have to eat out every night as they only provide breakfast.  These breakfasts are the like small banquets!   Shame my appetite has not been what it usually is!!

We have enjoyed a varied selection of French cuisine – all beautifully prepared and appreciated by all.  Our meal times together have been one of the highlights so far.  Each night a different group of people with much laughter, joking and banter.

The night we stayed in Les Chapieux we meet a competitor in the up-incoming ultra Tour De Mont Blanc.  He was very interesting and has done many ultras before.  They have 46 hrs  and so many minutes to complete the 170 km trail.  They start Friday night in Chamonix.  Cannot imagine running through the night over some of the tracks we have hiked.  His husband is a Columbian and was such fun to be around.  Tracy asked him “What will you be doing while your husband is running?” his response was “Eating cheese and drinking wine.”  Said with a big smile.  They both were delightful and we certainly enjoyed their company.

Tomorrow we move into Switzerland.  It’s another big day with a long climb.  Tracy will be doing that on her own as I’m currently experiencing extreme breathlessness (like never before and in contact with my Dr) along with constant nausea and a chest cough – not much fun but still loving our adventure and experiences.  Trying to get to see a Dr, when and where will be interesting.

That is it at present.  Thank you for your feedback.  I always enjoy reading your comments.

Have a wonderful adventure The Morgans!

Go Team NZ –  I hear they have had a mishap with their boat – oops!!  🙁  Go the All Blacks!  Till next time.

Scenes on the TMB trail