by Yvonne Rika
A blogger I am not but….
here I am doing it for a dear friend who has not been able to accompany me in recent times. However, these hikes are rather different from our usual individual hikes. These two hikes are guided. Wooh! To me, that means not carrying a heavy backpack loaded with tents, bedding, food, stove, and all the paraphernalia that goes with freedom hiking. Just a pack for my clothes, personal items, sleeping, and safety gear, sounded like heaven to me.
This time in quiet anticipation I flew from Rotorua down to Dunedin to meet up with another dear friend Denise, who first suggested this might be an experience I would enjoy. If nothing else I knew I would enjoy her company so here we were, sharing a room at the Leviathan Hotel. A heritage hotel built in 1884 in the oldest city in NZ which is situated almost in the middle of town. There are many reminders of this era, such as photos, staircase banisters-stained glass windows, and beautiful woodwork. The rooms were comfortable and the ensuite was clean, modern, and functional.
Here we met up with others, including Denise’s neighbour Elaine, who was joining the same guided tour as us. The Otago Youth Adventure Trust and Milton Rotary Tramping Club run this guided tour and all the group would be staying at the old Aspinall Family’s Mt Aspiring Station Homestead donated to Dunstan High School which had been converted into a comfortable Lodge, which sleeps 40, and is about one hour past Wanaka.
Day One: Travelling to Mt Aspiring Station Homestead
From my personal experience, I would consider this walk easy
Started at 8 am when we were picked up from the Leviathan Hotel and from our handout on the trip, we knew that we would be picking the rest of the group up from Wanaka and nearby. The bus trip was very relaxing and gave me a chance to see the surrounding countryside, some for the first time. It was interesting viewing the Lake Dunston Cycleway from the opposite side of the lake and seeing the width of the track and the overhanging cycleway. It looked scary especially when two bikes passed going in opposite directions.
We stopped in Lawerance, Roxburgh, and then lastly Wanaka for a 30-minute lunch break. This took about 3 hours and 40 minutes. We then proceeded up the Wanaka Mount Aspiring Road for an hour, crossing a creek and following the Matukituki braided river. On reaching the Mount Aspiring Station cattle yards, which was opposite to where the tractor crossed the west arm of the river, we all vacated the bus. Fortunately, the river was low and therefore our packs would be transported across the river to the old Mt Aspiring Homestead.
We, the 28 hikers which included seven volunteer guides, departed from the bus. I was looking forward to stretching my legs after such a long bus ride. The guides instructed the group to walk along the metal road and cross the first swing bridge then the track doubled back to the homestead,3 km which turned out to be 6 km. The walk was refreshing although it was a sweltering day we walked through paddocks and then near the native bush. As we were turning into the drive of the homestead we were met with a flooded dip in the road, there was no way around this obstacle, so I took the plunge with the water going up to my ankles. but this was no problem as I just pulled the legs up on my long trousers, unlike others who took their trousers right off. Wet feet the first day ☹
We got to the lodge and were able to choose a bunk room, which Denise and I shared with another couple. While Elaine chose another room along the corridor.
That night following our evening meal, we were given the option of putting our names down under the track that we would like to do the following day. We had three options.
- Aspiring Hut
- Glacier Burn Track
- Rock of Ages/Junction flat.
I put my name down for Aspiring hut, one of the longer walks. The prediction for the third day of the shorter walk to Glacier Burns, was for rain so I chose to do it second thinking it would be manageable in the wet weather. That left Junction Flat and Rock of Ages another longer track for the fourth day which was predicted to be drier.
Day Two: Mt Aspiring Hut
From my personal experience, I would consider this walk easy
We were up and about for breakfast at a reasonable hour, 7.30 to 8 am. It was substantial with cereals and a cooked breakfast; this gave me the energy for the hike.
Fillings and bread were laid out for us to select the ingredients to make our own sandwiches including a piece of fruit. I appreciated this as we could choose the amount of food that suited each individual.
About 12 walkers set off at approximately 9 am and took the tractor ride over the river, then boarded three vans which followed the west branch of the Matukituki River for 9 km to Raspberry Flat where there is a Doc carpark with a shelter, and toilets and also about six stationary cars.
This is a popular hike for locals and families as the Mount Aspiring Hut is only 8 km up the valley, most of which was flat farmland. The Mt Aspiring Hut is modern and sleeps 40 persons with a camping area a little further on. A great adventure for little feet of which we saw quite a few.
We set off in, warm windy headwinds, walking up the farm track with the towering mountains on both sides. On the left was the Cascades Saddle on the right was the Rob Roy Peak.
The guide was informative and pointed out the Rob Roy Glacier which could be easily missed on passing. Unfortunately, the track to the glacier was closed by D.O.C due to washouts to the track, so no detour to see it could be taken. We walked on admiring the scenery for an hour then the group stopped under a large willow tree for morning tea. The sheep and the cattle had used this tree to shelter under and of course, the fragrance was of pee and poo of which there was plenty so I walked a little further onto a tree stump so I could avoid sitting amongst it. Following the break there was a short steep hill to transverse but it was a truly short climb and then down again to the flats.
In another hour we arrived at the Mt Aspiring Hutt with large black clouds looming over us, it felt like the rain was not far off. Half the group and one guide chose to stay at the hut and eat their lunch while the other half of the group and a guide, continued to the shovel flat hoping to get an unobstructed view of Mount Aspiring. That was not to be as low black clouds were slowly moving towards us. We sat out of the wind, tried to avoid the sandflies, and ate our lunch in this beautiful setting amongst the native bush. Thirty minutes later we were on our way again as the dark threatening clouds were descending out of the mountains and appeared to be following us as we headed back. Those at the hut had already left and we were about an hour behind them. With the wind at our backs and the drops of rain starting we made a hasty retreat passing other hikers who were also leaving due to the forecast of rain for the following day.
We arrived back at the car park not long after the first group and we loaded ourselves into the vans and headed back to the homestead. An option was given to the group to stop for a swim at the Wish Bone Falls which was close to the road but as the temperature had dropped considerably since we first started there were no takers, A hot shower was far more anticipated and enjoyable for most, considering the colder weather.
Heading to the driveway of the lodge we were again faced with the water-filled dip before the gate and we were pleased we were being transported on the trailer as the water appeared a lot deeper than this morning. Back up at our bunk room, I met up with Denise who had chosen a different trail from me, and caught up with her news, then it was off to the hot shower to clean up and change into clean clothes.
Dinner Preparation where everyone has a turn
Preparation for the evening meal was done by volunteers from the twenty-eight walkers. This meant that for one night of the four, each member took their turn to help and to clear up. Not an arduous task and a time to get to know each other.
That night following tea we were informed about the heavy rain forecast for the night and the following day and the possibility of modifying routes due to flooding rivers. We were also informed that one of the guides was returning home due to having Covid, now we were down to 2 guides per group.
That night the heavens opened, and the lodge was lashed with wind and rain. Was I glad that I was not out in my little tent in this weather. It was like what Heather and I had previously experienced in the Mavora Lakes District. Consequently, it felt like a sheer luxury to have had a hot shower, clean clothes, a hot meal, and a nice dry bed to crawl into.
Day Three: Glacier Burn Track???
Rain, rain, and more rain, with the steep hills and a waterfall just at the back of the old homestead the water just poured off the hills and turned all the paddocks into lakes and the creeks into raging rivers. This morning, I had planned to walk the Glacier Burn Track however there was doubt that this would be possible due to river crossings. The rain continued throughout the early morning and it was late morning when the call was made by one of the guides to attempt to do the Glacier Burn track, bearing in mind that the group would go as far as was safe and if the rivers were unsafe to cross, the group would turn back. So off through the paddocks we went sharing the area with a herd of cows.
Close to the homestead, the paddocks were flooded, and we were wading through ankle-deep water. By the time we got to the bush edge, there were showers intermittently and the track was very wet with copious slippery tree roots to transverse. A decision was made to turn back by some of the group and by the time they retraced their steps the water level in the fields was up to their knees. Hence with wet clothes and boots in the drying room, many headed to the lounge and caught up with reading about this area and getting to know each other. Many had interesting adventures to share as well as recommending various tracks that they had walked and liked.
One thing I noticed was the lack of bird life I had seen or heard, although there was a range of birds that were common to this area. For example, piwakawaka, tomtit, rifleman, Kakariki, Kea, and spur-winged plover. I had only seen the piwakawaka, spur-winged plover, heard the song thrush singing its heart out in the early morning and evenings, and only heard high in the mountains the kea’s call.
It was early afternoon when the last half of the group arrived back from Glacier Burn Track, according to the guide, they were unable to do the full track due to the swollen waterways so had turned back, but at least they had stretched their legs.
By late afternoon, the weather looked as if it was clearing so Denise and I went out for a walk to blow away the cobwebs and enjoy the fresh air. I wondered what it would be like living and farming out here in the past, when the transport was horses and the roads were very poor, where literally “the river ruled my life”, (I remembered reading a book titled “A River Rules My Life, written by Mona Anderson a farmer’s wife and her account of how her life and movements were restricted by the flow of the river. So different from today’s life.
Day Four: Rock of Ages – Junction Flat
From my personal experience, I would consider this walk easy to moderate
Day 4 dawned and with it, the clouds were parted and it promised to be a better day. I had booked to go up the eastern branch of the Matukituki to where it meets the Kitchener River at Junction Flat then on to Rock of Ages Bivouac if possible.
We followed the farm track through three large paddocks occupied by bulls, cows, and some calves. The water levels had gone down, but we still got wet feet crossing them. The weather was cloudy, and a chilly wind was blowing. We regrouped and then entered the Beech Forest and followed the west branch of the Martukituki up to Junction Flat. The fauna consisted of beech trees with the ground cover being a variety of ferns and mosses, a typically beautiful beech forest and the river was crystal clear.
The track was well formed and a leisurely walk except for a 2-meter rock face that we had to climb. Going up was not too hard although coming down was technical. The guide gave instructions on how to negotiate it. The hand and toe holds were very narrow, so it was getting a grip with fingers and toes and leaning backward to make your way down. Interesting when your head is telling you to lean into the rock. After a couple of attempts and then going with one’s momentum I managed to come down but not gracefully.
Another technique the guide shared was crossing a slippery waterfall and using a wire that was attached to the rock. Again, not what I expected. The technique was to hold the wire gently, so as not to lean into the rock face, stand up straight, avoid the slippery moss, and walk across. All went smoothly.
The rationale for this was that leaning into the rock face can cause your feet to slip out from under you sending you in the direction of the drop over the falls. Not something any of the group wanted.
When we reached Junction Flat; it was still a cold wind blowing but sunny so we had lunch on the river bank. This was further than the previous day’s group had been due to the high flow of water in the creeks, for today we were unable to continue to the Rock of Ages for the same reason so following lunch we walked up to the single-wire bridge that crossed the Kitchener River then we retraced our steps back to the homestead. I felt that I had not missed out on the Glacier Burn walk the previous day as we had walked past where they had had to turn back. The hours quoted for this return trip was four hours although this group did it in five hours which included lunch.
I caught up with Denise later in the afternoon and we enjoyed a glass of wine and exchanged our experiences.
Day Five: Returning to civilisation
As always time flies on these trips and now it was time to pack up and head back to our individual destinations.
First, the facilities had to be cleaned by the group and left as we had found it. This was not an arduous task and we all finished ahead of time. We then loaded our packs on board the tractor, plus the excess food and it was then transported by tractor down and across the river to be loaded onto the waiting bus. That just left the group to make their way by foot down to the flooded gate to wait for the tractors to return to take transport us to the bus.
While waiting for the transport, we watched the farmer and his dogs drive a large group of cattle down to the river, we got off the track and stood by the vehicles to ensure that we did not interfere with the task at hand. It was fascinating and beautiful to watch the dogs work the cattle and how they responded to the farmer’s commands. Once the cattle had crossed the river the tractor was able to use the same farm track to pick up our group. Most of the group had learned that sitting around the side of the tray was not particularly comfortable for those who had to sit in the middle so instead we sat back-to-back giving each person a backrest to lean on. Much more comfortable that way.
The return trip to Wanaka was uneventful until we crossed the fiord then there was an enormous bump that lifted most of us out of our seats. Once on the other side, the ride was a little rough and when the bus stopped and we all got off the driver noticed that the tyre had been punctured so the lunch stop was extended for about an hour and a half.
It was at this point that I and four others were leaving the group and heading down to Queenstown, so we went to the Information Centre and booked our seats. We also had about two hours to kill so we stopped for lunch and then walked a short distance around the lake edge to see the puteketeke or the southern crested grebe (voted the National Bird of the Year, where votes from all over the world gave it this title) In 2013 artificial nesting platforms had been installed making the marina an important site for conservation. It was a real treat to see the courting and nesting birds as I had seen a lot of worldwide coverage on TV about this bird but had never seen one in their natural habitat.
The bus trip to Queenstown via the Crown Range was a new experience and the scenery was stunning.
My fellow hikers were dropped off at the airport while I headed to the Lylo Hostel where I had booked in for 2 nights. I thought I would try out the pod rooms as I had never experienced these before. Unfortunately, I was unable to get the lower one that I had booked so instead of a 4-bed pod room for women I ended up in a mixed 6-pod room.
I must admit that it was an experience and I doubt that I will repeat it in the near future. It was like being a sardine in a can. Well not quite, but I was pleased that I was on the small side as it gave me more room in the pod. It contained a mattress, linen, a light, a mirror, and a socket for a phone charger. There was also a blind on one side to pull down for privacy. The whole room was airconditioned. It was not noisy, although I must admit I did not get a good night’s sleep. My neighbours were a Malaysian family of three who were very friendly, and two single guys. Under the pods at floor level was a locked locker for each pod.
As I said it was an experience however, because I was returning following my next hike, I decided to book a single room to give myself a little more space.
PS:
Thank you Yvonne for taking us mentally and visually on your recent adventure. But hey readers, there is another one to come!!!
For the past six months adventures for me have not been happening as I’m having some minor health issues to sort out. But here’s hoping it won’t be long before I’m back on the trails! In the meantime, if you have an adventure you would like to share, please feel free to contact me. In the meantime, take care out there, GoldCard Gal 🙂
The next morning, we were soon back on the trail after drinking an enjoyable cup of coffee and eating a nutritious breakfast (of muesli topped with dehydrated kiwi fruit). This is my go-to breakfast every day. Then packing our packs. The last job before leaving any hut is to sweep it out and ensure the bench surfaces are clean for the next lot of guests. Michael had long gone – he was hiking 36 kms today.
