Greenstone Valley and the Routeburn Track

(6 days with one rest day)

by Yvonne

My next hike was the Grand Traverse and the pre-track briefing the following day, was just across the road from the Lylo Hostel (which was in central Queenstown, within walking distance to shops etc) in the Ultimate Hike Centre. I chose to borrow a smaller pack from them, however, unfortunately, one zip was broken, and I did not realise this until I started packing that evening. Hence, I had to go early the following morning to get another pack and repack. I didn’t do this as well as I usually do which was unfortunate as it was not as comfortable as it could have been for the first day which was one of the longest – 18km.

What can I say about these two routes that have not been said before, there is so much written about them so I will just give a brief description of my experience.

Day 1:  Carpark to Steele Creek Lodge 17^th January 2024

18 km I have not put times in as this is very dependent on the group and the stops that are taken, this was often every two hours with at least a 30-minute break for lunch. However, this level of difficulty was rated as moderate, and I gather that was because of the distance.

I got up as quietly as I could from the pod at 5 am and went up to the top floor for breakfast. The temperature had plummeted, but the forecast was for dry weather for today but rain the following day however, I was just looking forward to getting back out to the mountains and away from the crowds in Queenstown.  I made my way to the Ultimate Hike Centre where we were to be picked up. I arrived earlier than the others so that I could change the damaged pack I had borrowed. Our pickup time was 7.30 am.  The trip took us along Lake Wakatipu to Glenorchy where we stopped for a short break before continuing to the mouth of the Greenstone River where the walk-in was beautiful.

The Greenstone Track takes you through the red beech forest then it comes out onto the valley floor and joins the river again. There were magnificent views of Mt Christina as we followed up the river flats to Steel Creek Lodge. I regret I did not take photos all that day as I had spilled my water bottle on my phone charger and it ceased to work until it dried out a day later.

Day 2:   Look-out and Lake McKellar Lodge

16 km This level of difficulty was rated as easy and indeed it was.

Today the forecast was for heavy rain, but the morning dawned fine, and following a delicious breakfast of bacon scrambled eggs, and fruit, we made our lunches and with all the organisation done for us it was just a matter of deciding what to wear for the day. I must admit this was unusual for me and I still checked each day, the weather, the track, and the terrain on my apps to see in advance what I could expect. At 9.30 am, a leisurely start we walked through the forest then onto the mostly river flats with the large red tussocks blowing in the wind like waves. There were frequent stops for morning tea, lunch, and photos as we got spectacular views of the Ailsa and Livingstone Ranges. However, as the day progressed, the ranges faded into obscurity as the clouds came down along with firstly a light then a heavy downpour. The weather forecast had been correct. As the rain continued the river flats began to flood and we were wading through ankle-deep and sometimes knee-deep water as it poured off the mountains around us. At this point, the guide was wondering if we would be able to cross the final large river which fortunately, we were able to and made it to the Lodge, which was a welcome sight. Apparently, if we were unable to cross they would call a helicopter in to airlift us back to Queenstown.

The beauty of the lodge was the hot showers, being able to get into dry clothes, washing and drying our clothes, and then relaxing in a comfortable lounge with a fresh cup of real coffee.

Since the group was considered small, 13 people with 3 guides, there are usually 40 in a group, we were incredibly lucky and could spread out into the rooms. I was in a 4-bunk room for two nights and shared it with a young 32-year-old German gentleman Ludwick. There was so much space to spread out, especially after my experience in a pod.

Day 3:  McKellar Lodge

Rest and exploration

This was a rest day with the option of going up to the lookout behind the lodge for a view down the river flats and our first glimpse of the Routeburn track, however, this option was not to be as the rivers and river flats were flooded and it was too dangerous to try and cross them.

In front of the lodge was a lake which was inhabited by Canadian geese and brown ducks.

At the side of the lodge was a raging creek that sounded like a huge waterfall following the heavy rain of the previous day and throughout the night.

So, for the morning the group sat around the fire, reading, and enjoying each other’s company. There was a family group of Mum, Dad, and their 15-year-old daughter who was like an antelope going up the track and keeping up with the young guides. Her grandparents and I think an uncle and Aunt. An ex-NZ couple, an Auckland couple, Ludwig, and myself.

The three guides were energetic young people and were quite delightful and friendly as well as experienced and well-trained. One who had walked in with us was the cook who fed us well. She would not continue with this group but wait for the next group of walkers to arrive.

Consequently, when the rain subsided in the afternoon, we did a short walk along the lake’s edge. We went with Chris, one of the group who monitored waterways and their inhabitants and he gave us a remarkably interesting insight into the work he does. He also pointed out the adult whitebait fish which were in the shallows of the lake. Apparently, there are six species of adult fish that migrate up the rivers to spawn

Day 4 Mackenzie Lodge

12.5 km – level of difficulty was rated moderate to challenging.

An early start today as we started climbing.  Today we cross the main divide via the Greenstone Saddle and meet the Routeburn Track at Lake Howden. Before going we needed to scrub our boots and poles in disinfectant to prevent the spread of didymo locally known as rock snot.

The weather had improved, and the rain had stopped however due to the rain copious waterfalls were coming down the cliffs. The hike was a steady climb and at Lake Howden, we were given the choice to do a sidewalk up to the Key Summit which was a 1-hour return trip. The climb was reasonable, and we were above the tree line so there were many alpine plants to see. Again, the views were spectacular as we could gaze down three valleys from which water flows to three different coasts.

Following lunch at Lake Howden, the track gradually climbs through the silver beech forest to Earland Falls. One of the women was extremely interested in the forest floor plants and it was not long before we were seeing all the different native orchids. The black, the greenhood, spider, and a few others. The black robin was also present along with the kea who was grazing quite close to the Earland Falls.

Following a break we descended to Mackenzie Lodge. The descent was steep and rocky so one had to watch one’s step. Thank goodness for poles.

Refreshments were waiting for us along with a hot shower and a three-course meal. This time I had a four-bed room to myself. I moved the bed to the window so that I could lie and look at the stars and the night sky.

Day 5:  Routeburn Falls Lodge and Conical Hill

11km Level of difficulty considered moderate

The flora changes from forest to daisies, buttercups, edelweiss. The views were of the Darran Mountains across the Hollyford Valley and through to the Fiordland and Tasman Sea, but this was only fleeting as the clouds were beginning to lower again. Lunch was at the Harris Saddle, and I chose not to go up to the Conical Hill, a 2-hour return trip, as I did not think there would be a view due to the low cloud cover, and must be amazing on a cloudless day. At times we were able to see the few brave souls that chose to do it as dots on the landscape, but it was not long before they disappeared into the blackening clouds. For the rest of the group, we started to walk around Lake Harris and descend into the upper basin of the Routeburn Valley with the towering mountains above. I was walking with one other guy and it was not long before we decided to stop and put our coats on as a few drops of rain started, by the time we reached the lodge we had been walking for some time in a deluge with the rain forming waterfalls down the rocks. Care had to be taken as the rocks were getting quite slippery. The waterfall to our left was full to the maximum and belting down the gorge and we could hear it before we could see it. In fact, everywhere one looked there were waterfalls coming off the surrounding mountains.

Day 6:  Routeburn Falls Lodge to carpark

9km Level of difficulty considered easy.

Quite a chill in the air and a light covering of snow on the tops of the mountains as I re-packed for the last day of the hike. This time it was into a large brown plastic bag, given out by the company. The idea is that once you arrive at the Routeburn shelter you empty and return your pack and just take the bag with your clothes back to your accommodation. I had seen a group of people walking along the street with these bags and wondered what was in them and where they were all going and now, I knew.

So, we set off on our final day through the alpine pastures to the Routeburn Flats, allowing views of the mountains beyond. The rain had stopped but the Routeburn river was still raging. We followed down through the magnificent gorge onto the George flat and then through the beech forest, across the last swing bridge to the Routeburn Shelter. We did not stop for morning tea or lunch on the way as it was cold, and the ground was still very wet.

Instead, we all had lunch at the Shelter where the sun was shining and there were dry seats to sit on. The bus was waiting, and we loaded the packs onto the bus, seated ourselves, and enjoyed a scenic drive to Glenorchy, sitting next to the bus driver I had beautiful views of the mountains and landscape.  Here we stopped at the local tavern and had a much-appreciated coffee and started saying goodbye to each other and promising to share photos on a website then it was time to head back to Queenstown.

As always, it is not just the hike that makes the experience it is also the people that you meet, their experiences, and the knowledge that is shared. This group was great, the ages ranged from the youngest being fifteen, Ludwick 32 to the rest of us up to 76 years old, mostly retirees who were so interesting.

One tip that I got from a new hiker, but an ex-runner was how to tie one’s boot laces so you don’t get sore toes. After all this time I could not believe that I had not fathomed that one out, but I must admit I really appreciated that tip. Thank you Juliette from me and my often-sore toes, I have researched several ways to tie my laces with success and my toes are so thankful to you.

What I liked about Guided Hikes

• Not carrying heavy packs, in the future I would use my own pack with which I am familiar and comfortable with, as I found the borrowed one was stiff and the straps difficult to adjust. A good lesson learned.
• All arrangements are organised
• Fresh food
• Showers and comfortable beds
• Drying rooms
• Guides with local knowledge
• Ultimate Hike guides, professional, aware of safety, weather, first aiders, up-to-date weather reports, in radio contact with each other, lodges, and Queenstown base.
• The distances on the Grand Traverse were more to my liking, and I really enjoyed being up in the mountains and valleys.
• The Adventure Trust/Otago Youth Adventure Trust. Was different in the respect that it is run by volunteers. However, they also were aware of safety etc.
• The distances for each hike were personally not challenging, I preferred a longer walk each day. Next time if there is a next time, I would like to stay at the Mt Aspiring Hut for 4 days and do more of the day walks and explore the Mt Aspiring Park tracks. It is only a two-hour hike from the car park to the hut and would be manageable with a full pack as the terrain is mostly flat.

What I missed in comparing freedom walking to a guided tour

• Missed the spontaneity of individualizing personal preferences and challenges, however, I understand that this is not possible in a larger group.

To sum it up for the future a mixture of the two types of hiking would be perfect. As I said camping out in pouring rain in a small tent is not what I would choose for every hike, especially getting up at night.

All in all great company and a great experience.

Additional photographs

Some of the lodges we stayed at

Another great adventure Yvonne, thank you for writing about it and sharing it with my subscribers.

by Yvonne Rika

A blogger I am not but….

here I am doing it for a dear friend who has not been able to accompany me in recent times. However, these hikes are rather different from our usual individual hikes. These two hikes are guided.  Wooh! To me, that means not carrying a heavy backpack loaded with tents, bedding, food, stove, and all the paraphernalia that goes with freedom hiking. Just a pack for my clothes, personal items, sleeping, and safety gear, sounded like heaven to me.

This time in quiet anticipation I flew from Rotorua down to Dunedin to meet up with another dear friend Denise, who first suggested this might be an experience I would enjoy. If nothing else I knew I would enjoy her company so here we were, sharing a room at the Leviathan Hotel.  A heritage hotel built in 1884 in the oldest city in NZ which is situated almost in the middle of town. There are many reminders of this era, such as photos, staircase banisters-stained glass windows, and beautiful woodwork. The rooms were comfortable and the ensuite was clean, modern, and functional.

Here we met up with others, including Denise’s neighbour Elaine, who was joining the same guided tour as us. The Otago Youth Adventure Trust and Milton Rotary Tramping Club run this guided tour and all the group would be staying at the old Aspinall Family’s Mt Aspiring Station Homestead donated to Dunstan High School which had been converted into a comfortable Lodge, which sleeps 40, and is about one hour past Wanaka.

Day One: Travelling to Mt Aspiring Station Homestead

From my personal experience, I would consider this walk easy

Started at 8 am when we were picked up from the Leviathan Hotel and from our handout on the trip, we knew that we would be picking the rest of the group up from Wanaka and nearby. The bus trip was very relaxing and gave me a chance to see the surrounding countryside, some for the first time. It was interesting viewing the Lake Dunston Cycleway from the opposite side of the lake and seeing the width of the track and the overhanging cycleway. It looked scary especially when two bikes passed going in opposite directions.

We stopped in Lawerance, Roxburgh, and then lastly Wanaka for a 30-minute lunch break. This took about 3 hours and 40 minutes.  We then proceeded up the Wanaka Mount Aspiring Road for an hour, crossing a creek and following the Matukituki braided river. On reaching the Mount Aspiring Station cattle yards, which was opposite to where the tractor crossed the west arm of the river, we all vacated the bus. Fortunately, the river was low and therefore our packs would be transported across the river to the old Mt Aspiring Homestead.

We, the 28 hikers which included seven volunteer guides, departed from the bus.  I was looking forward to stretching my legs after such a long bus ride. The guides instructed the group to walk along the metal road and cross the first swing bridge then the track doubled back to the homestead,3 km which turned out to be 6 km. The walk was refreshing although it was a sweltering day we walked through paddocks and then near the native bush. As we were turning into the drive of the homestead we were met with a flooded dip in the road, there was no way around this obstacle, so I took the plunge with the water going up to my ankles. but this was no problem as I just pulled the legs up on my long trousers, unlike others who took their trousers right off. Wet feet the first day ☹

We got to the lodge and were able to choose a bunk room, which Denise and I shared with another couple. While Elaine chose another room along the corridor.

That night following our evening meal, we were given the option of putting our names down under the track that we would like to do the following day. We had three options.

1. Aspiring Hut
2. Glacier Burn Track
3. Rock of Ages/Junction flat.

I put my name down for Aspiring hut, one of the longer walks.  The prediction for the third day of the shorter walk to Glacier Burns, was for rain so I chose to do it second thinking it would be manageable in the wet weather. That left Junction Flat and Rock of Ages another longer track for the fourth day which was predicted to be drier.

Day Two:  Mt Aspiring Hut

From my personal experience, I would consider this walk easy

We were up and about for breakfast at a reasonable hour, 7.30 to 8 am. It was substantial with cereals and a cooked breakfast; this gave me the energy for the hike.

Fillings and bread were laid out for us to select the ingredients to make our own sandwiches including a piece of fruit. I appreciated this as we could choose the amount of food that suited each individual.

About 12 walkers set off at approximately 9 am and took the tractor ride over the river, then boarded three vans which followed the west branch of the Matukituki River for 9 km to Raspberry Flat where there is a Doc carpark with a shelter, and toilets and also about six stationary cars.

This is a popular hike for locals and families as the Mount Aspiring Hut is only 8 km up the valley, most of which was flat farmland. The Mt Aspiring Hut is modern and sleeps 40 persons with a camping area a little further on. A great adventure for little feet of which we saw quite a few.

We set off in, warm windy headwinds, walking up the farm track with the towering mountains on both sides. On the left was the Cascades Saddle on the right was the Rob Roy Peak.

The guide was informative and pointed out the Rob Roy Glacier which could be easily missed on passing. Unfortunately, the track to the glacier was closed by D.O.C due to washouts to the track, so no detour to see it could be taken. We walked on admiring the scenery for an hour then the group stopped under a large willow tree for morning tea. The sheep and the cattle had used this tree to shelter under and of course, the fragrance was of pee and poo of which there was plenty so I walked a little further onto a tree stump so I could avoid sitting amongst it. Following the break there was a short steep hill to transverse but it was a truly short climb and then down again to the flats.

In another hour we arrived at the Mt Aspiring Hutt with large black clouds looming over us, it felt like the rain was not far off. Half the group and one guide chose to stay at the hut and eat their lunch while the other half of the group and a guide, continued to the shovel flat hoping to get an unobstructed view of Mount Aspiring. That was not to be as low black clouds were slowly moving towards us. We sat out of the wind, tried to avoid the sandflies, and ate our lunch in this beautiful setting amongst the native bush. Thirty minutes later we were on our way again as the dark threatening clouds were descending out of the mountains and appeared to be following us as we headed back. Those at the hut had already left and we were about an hour behind them. With the wind at our backs and the drops of rain starting we made a hasty retreat passing other hikers who were also leaving due to the forecast of rain for the following day.

We arrived back at the car park not long after the first group and we loaded ourselves into the vans and headed back to the homestead. An option was given to the group to stop for a swim at the Wish Bone Falls which was close to the road but as the temperature had dropped considerably since we first started there were no takers, A hot shower was far more anticipated and enjoyable for most, considering the colder weather.

Heading to the driveway of the lodge we were again faced with the water-filled dip before the gate and we were pleased we were being transported on the trailer as the water appeared a lot deeper than this morning. Back up at our bunk room, I met up with Denise who had chosen a different trail from me, and caught up with her news, then it was off to the hot shower to clean up and change into clean clothes.

Dinner Preparation where everyone has a turn

Preparation for the evening meal was done by volunteers from the twenty-eight walkers. This meant that for one night of the four, each member took their turn to help and to clear up. Not an arduous task and a time to get to know each other.

That night following tea we were informed about the heavy rain forecast for the night and the following day and the possibility of modifying routes due to flooding rivers. We were also informed that one of the guides was returning home due to having Covid, now we were down to 2 guides per group.

That night the heavens opened, and the lodge was lashed with wind and rain. Was I glad that I was not out in my little tent in this weather. It was like what Heather and I had previously experienced in the Mavora Lakes District. Consequently, it felt like a sheer luxury to have had a hot shower, clean clothes, a hot meal, and a nice dry bed to crawl into.

Day Three:  Glacier Burn Track???

Rain, rain, and more rain, with the steep hills and a waterfall just at the back of the old homestead the water just poured off the hills and turned all the paddocks into lakes and the creeks into raging rivers. This morning, I had planned to walk the Glacier Burn Track however there was doubt that this would be possible due to river crossings. The rain continued throughout the early morning and it was late morning when the call was made by one of the guides to attempt to do the Glacier Burn track, bearing in mind that the group would go as far as was safe and if the rivers were unsafe to cross, the group would turn back. So off through the paddocks we went sharing the area with a herd of cows.

Close to the homestead, the paddocks were flooded, and we were wading through ankle-deep water. By the time we got to the bush edge, there were showers intermittently and the track was very wet with copious slippery tree roots to transverse. A decision was made to turn back by some of the group and by the time they retraced their steps the water level in the fields was up to their knees. Hence with wet clothes and boots in the drying room, many headed to the lounge and caught up with reading about this area and getting to know each other. Many had interesting adventures to share as well as recommending various tracks that they had walked and liked.

One thing I noticed was the lack of bird life I had seen or heard, although there was a range of birds that were common to this area. For example, piwakawaka, tomtit, rifleman, Kakariki, Kea, and spur-winged plover. I had only seen the piwakawaka, spur-winged plover, heard the song thrush singing its heart out in the early morning and evenings, and only heard high in the mountains the kea’s call.

It was early afternoon when the last half of the group arrived back from Glacier Burn Track, according to the guide, they were unable to do the full track due to the swollen waterways so had turned back, but at least they had stretched their legs.

By late afternoon, the weather looked as if it was clearing so Denise and I went out for a walk to blow away the cobwebs and enjoy the fresh air. I wondered what it would be like living and farming out here in the past, when the transport was horses and the roads were very poor, where literally “the river ruled my life”, (I remembered reading a book titled “A River Rules My Life, written by Mona Anderson a farmer’s wife and her account of how her life and movements were restricted by the flow of the river. So different from today’s life.

Day Four:  Rock of Ages – Junction Flat

From my personal experience, I would consider this walk easy to moderate

Day 4 dawned and with it, the clouds were parted and it promised to be a better day. I had booked to go up the eastern branch of the Matukituki to where it meets the Kitchener River at  Junction Flat then on to Rock of Ages Bivouac if possible.

We followed the farm track through three large paddocks occupied by bulls, cows, and some calves. The water levels had gone down, but we still got wet feet crossing them. The weather was cloudy, and a chilly wind was blowing. We regrouped and then entered the Beech Forest and followed the west branch of the Martukituki up to Junction Flat. The fauna consisted of beech trees with the ground cover being a variety of ferns and mosses, a typically beautiful beech forest and the river was crystal clear.

The track was well formed and a leisurely walk except for a 2-meter rock face that we had to climb. Going up was not too hard although coming down was technical. The guide gave instructions on how to negotiate it. The hand and toe holds were very narrow, so it was getting a grip with fingers and toes and leaning backward to make your way down. Interesting when your head is telling you to lean into the rock. After a couple of attempts and then going with one’s momentum I managed to come down but not gracefully.

Another technique the guide shared was crossing a slippery waterfall and using a wire that was attached to the rock. Again, not what I expected. The technique was to hold the wire gently, so as not to lean into the rock face, stand up straight, avoid the slippery moss, and walk across.  All went smoothly.

The rationale for this was that leaning into the rock face can cause your feet to slip out from under you sending you in the direction of the drop over the falls. Not something any of the group wanted.

When we reached Junction Flat; it was still a cold wind blowing but sunny so we had lunch on the river bank. This was further than the previous day’s group had been due to the high flow of water in the creeks, for today we were unable to continue to the Rock of Ages for the same reason so following lunch we walked up to the single-wire bridge that crossed the Kitchener River then we retraced our steps back to the homestead. I felt that I had not missed out on the Glacier Burn walk the previous day as we had walked past where they had had to turn back. The hours quoted for this return trip was four hours although this group did it in five hours which included lunch.

I caught up with Denise later in the afternoon and we enjoyed a glass of wine and exchanged our experiences.

Day Five:  Returning to civilisation

As always time flies on these trips and now it was time to pack up and head back to our individual destinations.

First, the facilities had to be cleaned by the group and left as we had found it. This was not an arduous task and we all finished ahead of time. We then loaded our packs on board the tractor, plus the excess food and it was then transported by tractor down and across the river to be loaded onto the waiting bus. That just left the group to make their way by foot down to the flooded gate to wait for the tractors to return to take transport us to the bus.

While waiting for the transport, we watched the farmer and his dogs drive a large group of cattle down to the river, we got off the track and stood by the vehicles to ensure that we did not interfere with the task at hand. It was fascinating and beautiful to watch the dogs work the cattle and how they responded to the farmer’s commands. Once the cattle had crossed the river the tractor was able to use the same farm track to pick up our group. Most of the group had learned that sitting around the side of the tray was not particularly comfortable for those who had to sit in the middle so instead we sat back-to-back giving each person a backrest to lean on. Much more comfortable that way.

The return trip to Wanaka was uneventful until we crossed the fiord then there was an enormous bump that lifted most of us out of our seats. Once on the other side, the ride was a little rough and when the bus stopped and we all got off the driver noticed that the tyre had been punctured so the lunch stop was extended for about an hour and a half.

It was at this point that I and four others were leaving the group and heading down to Queenstown, so we went to the Information Centre and booked our seats. We also had about two hours to kill so we stopped for lunch and then walked a short distance around the lake edge to see the puteketeke or the southern crested grebe (voted the National Bird of the Year, where votes from all over the world gave it this title) In 2013 artificial nesting platforms had been installed making the marina an important site for conservation. It was a real treat to see the courting and nesting birds as I had seen a lot of worldwide coverage on TV about this bird but had never seen one in their natural habitat.

The bus trip to Queenstown via the Crown Range was a new experience and the scenery was stunning.

My fellow hikers were dropped off at the airport while I headed to the Lylo Hostel where I had booked in for 2 nights. I thought I would try out the pod rooms as I had never experienced these before. Unfortunately, I was unable to get the lower one that I had booked so instead of a 4-bed pod room for women I ended up in a mixed 6-pod room.

I must admit that it was an experience and I doubt that I will repeat it in the near future. It was like being a sardine in a can. Well not quite, but I was pleased that I was on the small side as it gave me more room in the pod.  It contained a mattress, linen, a light, a mirror, and a socket for a phone charger. There was also a blind on one side to pull down for privacy. The whole room was airconditioned. It was not noisy, although I must admit I did not get a good night’s sleep. My neighbours were a Malaysian family of three who were very friendly, and two single guys. Under the pods at floor level was a locked locker for each pod.

As I said it was an experience however, because I was returning following my next hike, I decided to book a single room to give myself a little more space.

PS:

Thank you Yvonne for taking us mentally and visually on your recent adventure.  But hey readers, there is another one to come!!!

For the past six months adventures for me have not been happening as I’m having some minor health issues to sort out.  But here’s hoping it won’t be long before I’m back on the trails!  In the meantime, if you have an adventure you would like to share, please feel free to contact me.   In the meantime, take care out there,  GoldCard Gal 🙂