GoldCard Gal

The Forgotten World Highway

30 June, 2020 5 Comments

Monday morning dawned dull and overcast with heavy rain and thunderstorms forecast later in the day. But I was excited – nothing was going to dampen my enthusiasm today because I was going to drive the Forgotten World Highway through to Stratford and then onto to New Plymouth to visit my nieces. It has been many years, actually over 10 since I was last through this special place and that was on my bike, sharing that adventure with good friends Margie, Virginia and Isla – that is another story.

Today it’s going to be just me, my thoughts and memories. An ideal time to reflect and dream. Can those two activities go on together? In my mind they can.

Map of road trip from Hamilton to New Plymouth via Forgotten World Highway — My road map

The Forgotten World Highway (State Highway 43) officially runs from Taumarunui through to Stratford – 185 kms of sealed and unsealed road surfaces with many many twists and turns. There are four saddles: Tahora; Whangamomona; Pohokura and Strathmore all offering spectacular views at the top of each.

The Tangarakau Gorge road (includes 12 kms of unsealed road) is quite magical – more so on a bike as you have time to take in the magnificent podocarp forest. But even in a vehicle you can get the feeling of how magical this drive is.

Joshua Morgan

Part of the way through the gorge is a memorial to Joshua Morgan and many other pioneers who sought their fortunes in this remote area. Joshua was an early surveyor who lost his life in 1893 – he was only 35 years old. This time I made sure I visited his grave, which is only a 2 minute walk off the road down through some beautiful native bush, and over a little stream – a peaceful resting place.

As I drove through this rugged country side, my mind often went back to memories of previous trips I had with my Dad when I was very young. My Dad loved travelling these back grounds and knew many of the local farmers through his horse wheeling and dealings! Even though I’ve never been a horse person I always enjoyed the opportunities to explore of these remote areas with my Dad.

This was another sign I had seen before but always in a hurry and didn’t explore. Not so this time, as I was travelling by myself I thought ‘why not explore this narrow gravel road’ and see what is at the end of it – after all 6 kms isn’t that long in a car! What an interesting side trip this turned out to be, a newly built ‘Pouata Honey’ depot, and a beautiful Ghost Town Camping Ground with several small wooden weatherboard cabins strategically placed for privacy and shade, plus ample area to put up your tent or park your RV. It looked a great place to chill out, relax and enjoy the peacefulness of the surrounding hills.

Whangamomonoa Hotel was my lunch destination. When I entered through the front door there was one other person in the bar enjoying his lunch. Guess that was a reflection of the day and number of people travelling this route – very few. The publican informed me as he was giving me my much anticipated ham, cheese and onion toasted sandwich, “We’re not normally open on a Monday”. I thought to myself he could have said that when I placed my order!! He wasn’t much in the mood for chatting when I asked him if he’d had much response to the sale of the pub. But he was more than happy to chat about the Post Office next door which he and his wife have done up and converted to an Airbnb, along with the old butchery next door to the Post Office. I must admit the little township was looking much more “loved’ than when I last visited. And guess what, I forgot to take any photographs. 🙁

The rest of the highway through to Stratford (including two saddles) was mainly through sheep farming country then dairying as the land became flatter. Many of the road names brought back memories of friends who used to live and work there but of whom I no longer have contact with. The closer I came to Stratford the heavier the rain got, the window wipers were turned on to double-speed to cope with the amount of rain. You would never have guessed there was a mountain directly west of Stratford!! So it was with much relief I arrived at my destination just outside New Plymouth – the heavy rain never easing. What a day it has been, the memories have been wonderful, and the journey rewarding. Knowing I’m going to write a blog has made me take more photographs and be much more aware of places and people.

I wonder what tomorrow will bring! If you have travelled the Forgotten World Highway, I would love to hear your thoughts.

Till then – take care GoldCard Gal 🙂

Additional snap shots

Moki Tunnel (180 m long, built in 1936 and known as “Hobbit’s Hole”. It has a timber gabled roof and hand carved walls.)

I noticed these green coloured bee hives from 8 mile junction right through to Ohura – I think one very large business.

Did you know huntsman loose their skin?

18 December, 2019 13 Comments

“Did you know huntsman loose their skin?” Connie said to me as she was watering the various small native plants under the little shade cloth tables as I sat drinking my flat white inside the Drake Resource Centre yesterday. “They need to do this to grow. I love all animals, especially carpet snakes” she said. “Snakes are fine if you don’t corner them. If they come inside my home, I leave them alone and when they are ready they will eventually go outside again”. These words are reassuring to a Kiwi visiting the land of the deadliest snakes and spiders in the world.

Connie is five foot nothing, slightly built – quite petite. She must be in her 60’s, her skin has that soft light tanned look, not from the sun, she’s just blessed to have that type of skin, few blemishes or wrinkles, a picture of health and happiness. She has a couple of bottom front teeth missing, which she doesn’t appear self-conscious about! Her soft grey hair is tied up into a bun on the top of her head, with little wisps of grey hair softly falling down each side or her face. Her voice tone matches her size, quiet and slightly pitched. She’s somewhat a funky dresser, wearing ankle high black Dr Martin boots; black knee length linen tailored shorts and a white blouse with small blue flowers printed on it. Her blouse has ¾ length sleeves, small stand up collar with 4 buttons down the front. Her blouse falls lousy over her shorts enabling a good air flow.

Connie is one of several volunteers working at the Drake Village Resource Centre, which is the hub of this small settlement called Drake. The Resource Centre is open seven days a week, mainly from 9 am – 5 pm. Drake is approximately 2.5 hrs drive inland from Byron Bay, with a population of 345 (2016 census). I’m visiting Drake to catch up with my daughter Tracy, her husband Phil and babysit my granddaughters Delilah and Poppy while their parents have a couple of nights away.

Image may contain: car, sky, tree, house and outdoor — Drake Village Resource Centre

Back to Connie, she loves her three days working at the Resource Centre which involves many different tasks: making coffee and tea; sorting mail for the local residents; manning the library; supervising computer and Internet access: photocopying; providing tourist information; and general goto person for the local community. I even noticed a sign on one of the door’s “Shower available, $4 for four people, 15 minutes time limit”. Recent fires and continuing drought have left this community and surrounding areas very short of water.

Tracy & Phil’s house (they’re converting a 12m x 12m shed into a rustic home)

Tracy and Phil live at the top of a steep hill with fabulous views over surrounding hills, now covered in scorched ground, burnt and partly burnt eucalyptus trees. Bush fires went through their valley in September leaving much destruction and damage to property and bush, including the much treasured ‘rain forest’ down the road. Fortunately for them their home was spared, mainly because they do not have trees up close to their home. Others were not so lucky some of their neighbours and residents along Long Gully Road lost everything. Wayne and Jennifer their closest neighbours (part way down the hill) lost everything. What a heart-breaking sight to see their mangled corrugated iron home, years of memories and hard work all gone up in smoke as the fire ripped up the valley destroying virtually everything in its path. Some say the bush fires are random in their burning, and sure enough not 5 ft from their destroyed home stood their compost toilet completely untouched and further along the section their covered shade houses still in tack and untouched. Tracy & Phil had one of their retaining walls burnt but the building on top of the wall untouched – hard to fathom.

Seeing the destruction of these fires and experiencing the severe water shortage has been an unforgettable experience for me. Fortunately for all Drake Village residents fresh drinking water is available the Resource Centre for free. Can you imagine saving every drop of water that comes from your taps?

Seeing the results of the bush-fires has encouraged me to research and seek further information about the regeneration of some of the burnt species. Eucalyptus are expected to regenerate in time as they have evolved adaptions to withstand bush-fires. What has been remarkable is how some of the burnt and blackened eucalyptus trees are already sprouting new green leaves which are known as juvenile leaves and will soon be replaced by adult leaves which are larger. How they sprout depends on the type of eucalyptus they are, for example, the Red Stringy Bark and Messmate eucalyptus have dormant growth buds deep beneath the bark which are protected from the fire. When the tree is burnt, and the outer foliage destroyed these buds are triggered into life and start to grow.

Lignotubers: Never heard that word before, this type of eucalyptus regenerate from underground lignotubers which are large roots from which the tree can sprout new growth. Although the above-ground part of the tree may not survive being burnt, the lignotuber and root-system remains alive. In time these trees will often develop multi-stem trunks and provide important habitat for local wildlife.

Regrowth: Many of the indigenous plants, including Grass Trees reply on fire to remove the build up of leaves and dead material. Once burnt, the flower-spikes development numerous seeds and is often the first sign that the Grass Tree is alive.

Seed storage: Other plants may not survive bush-fires but have developed ways to ensure that their species will still persist into the future. A number of smooth barked eucalyptus species, such as Mountain Ash rarely survive bush-fires and have instead evolved other ways to regenerate following fire. These seeds are stored in capsules (gum-nuts) in the tree canopy and are released following fire, to germinate en-masse once conditions become favourable, ensuring the survival of the species.

It has been a learning experience seeing the results of bush-fires and drought-stricken country side; highlights the harshness of the Australian landscape and what a tough environment to be a farmer. When I went to stay in Byron Bay it seemed another world, no bush fire destruction and no saving every drop of water. It felt a very privileged life style. Returning to NZ is always appreciated and welcomed. Till next time, Goldcard Gal.

PS: The purpose of describing Connie in such detail was to “show” her to you as opposed to ‘telling’ you about her. Has it worked, would appreciate your feedback. 🙂

360 degree views

8 March, 2019 2 Comments

On a clear day you can get 360 degree views across the Waikato and Bay of Plenty from the summit of Mount Te Aroha. You might also be lucky and see Mts Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe and Taranaki. I think these views alone are reward enough for sweating and puffing your way the 939 meters mountain surrounded in native bush.

This walk is one of my favourites. I walk it when I need free head space to let my mind wonder and have a good work-out. There is something very special about walking in the bush – it seems to restore my soul (if there is such a thing) and bring a sense of peacefulness to both body and mind.

Where to start?

You start the walk in the Te Aroha Domain next to the Mokena Geyser. They (DOC, Department of Conservation) suggest 45 minutes to the Whakapipi Lookout which offers views over the Hauraki Plans. This lookout is a great opportunity to stop, catch your breath, quench your thirst, and take in the views before the real climbing begins. DOC suggest is it another couple of hours or less to the summit. After the lookout the track becomes quite steep and the surface is described as “rough”.

This track ascends almost 1 km. Not always on a smooth structured track; you are often walking over tree roots; scrambling over large boulders or slogging your way up steps made from the half round post. But by letting your mind wonder, or being mindful these obstacles seem trivial. (Yeh right!!)

The Summit

You can return to Te Aroha via the same track (most direct route). There are other route options displayed at the summit. I used to walk down the road and across the ridges back to The Domain before I got new knees, but now I go slowly down the most direct route. It takes me as long to go down and it does to climb up!! Better to be safe than quick is my theory.

If you are feeling tired and need a little pampering why not have a soak in either of the hot tubs or slipper baths at Te Aroha Mineral Spas .

When’s a good time to walk to the summit?

Any time of the year, but may I suggest you do this walk when there has been several days of fine weather, otherwise under foot is inclined to be slippery! We don’t want any injuries.

Be aware you may experience alpine conditions on the summit. Ensure you take the appropriate clothing as it can be extremely windy, wet and cold.

Remember to take plenty of water and food; a good excuse to stop for a snack, to catch your breath and enjoy the bush.

There are a number of other walks based around the base of Mt Te Aroha, check out the Department of Conservation website: other walks.

Your feedback: How do you restore your well being? Where is your special place or what is your favourite activity? I’d love to hear your story.

Be safe out there and enjoy our natural environment. Until next time, Goldcard gal! 🙂

Cycling the Karakoram Highway: North Pakistan to Kyrgyzstan

22 February, 2019 6 Comments

Creating memories and having adventures are an important part of my life. Putting this blog together has been a wonderful trip down memory lane. I’m not sure why it has taken me so long to post this blog?

I’ve imagined riding the Karakoram Highway for many years, from Gilgit in North Pakistan through to Kashgar in West China. The idea of riding on paved and unpaved roads, closely surrounded by snow-capped mountains, blue clear skies and very little traffic was always very appealing and sparked my imagination for a long time. I finally decided that dreaming and imagining was not enough, this adventure needed to be fulfilled. The hills were never going to get smaller, and I was never going to get younger or stronger than I currently was – so it was time!

After much googling I came across a British cycling tour company called Redspoke Tours. They offered 20 days of adventures, using local guides in each of the countries we were to visit. This proved to be very beneficial in providing the best options for accommodation, local services and customs. It also provided an opportunity for us to get to know the local guides in a more personal way. 🙂

The route

Below was the route. We did have a couple of long days travelling by bus; a great opportunity to rest the body! Travelling in this part of the world is never dull, the sights are always fascinating and so different to what I’ve ever experience here in NZ or other parts of Asia. While some of the cycling sections look short on distance, they certainly were not easy in terrain.

Some of my most memorable scenes

Well known local polo player. The British introduced polo to Pakistan.

Goats for sale – Eid festival (we rode our bikes through this)

Leaving Gilgit (I’d dreamed about visiting Gilgit for a long time. Nothing prepared me for what it was actually like!! That didn’t bother me is just highlighted to me how different our imagination can be from reality.)

Redspokes sponsor a sewing school in a very remote valley. The school taught many of the young girls how to sew, thereby enabling them to earn precious $s for their family. This school was 45 kms from the nearest town along a very rough metal road.

Loved the decorated trucks in Pakistan. Drivers very proud of their vehicle.

Women always working. Loved the stone work.

Cycling the Karakoram Highway – amazing roads mainly funded by Chinese.

Loved some of the signage

Visiting Shimshal Village

Getting to and visiting Shimshal village was one of my highlights. At 3,100m, Shimshal is the highest settlement in Pakistan’s northern Hunza region and the last village before the Chinese border. It is reachable via only one rocky, hairpin turn-laden road cut into the Distegill Sar and Karun Kuh mountains. The road, known as the Shimshal Valley Road, is considered one of the world’s most dangerous. Much of it runs along the gorge of the Shimshal River, bordered by nothing but a steep drop off without guardrails. Completed in 2003 after 18 years of construction, navigable only by four-wheel drive or bicycle. Before the road was completed it used to take the villagers four days to walk to the main highway (Karakoram Highway).

In this village porters for trekking to Everest and K2 are trained. Couple of the men we meet had summited K2, which is technically much more difficult than Everest. I was invited into the village headman’s house to meet his wife (who couldn’t speak English). Their three children are at university in Lochore and the wife misses them very much. It was interesting to see in their home and have a chat and cup of tea. Why was I invited in, perhaps it was my age and I was walking by myself, whatever the reason I felt very privileged. Certainly had something to brag about to the rest of my group!!

These are my most memorable photos of the Shimshal visit. Just like to add I was regularly out of my comfort zone riding this road and kept saying to myself “if you think you can or can’t, either way you are right”. I’ve come to realise it’s all in the head, get that right and you’re just about there. 🙂

One blessing to this road – there was hardly any traffic!

The scenery magnificent when I had time to look and take it in!

It was unbelievable to see this village at such an altitude!

China

Arriving in China was an experience! At the border crossing they made us all unpack all our luggage, checked our phones, all the while walking around with rifles at the ready – letting us know who had the power and who was in control!!

Road to Chinese border from Pakistan side

Local taxi. I love looking at the different types of vehicles when I travel.

The landscape in China was much more open compared to Pakistan.

Yurt accommodation in China – it was very cold. The ablutions were across the road wherever you could find a clear patch!!

Solar powered village in the middle of nowhere. Did wonder who would want to live here?? Soil not very fertile!

Kashgar Market

We visited the famous out-door Kashgar animal market, I loved it. The way they handled their animals and the variety of animals for sale was so fascinating.

What a way to get your animals to the market – I love it.

Sheep for sale. It is amazing how quiet the animals were.

Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyzstan was different again from Pakistan and West China. The people were very kind and generous. The guest houses where we stayed were run by women as opposed to the guest houses in Pakistan were run by men, the difference was well – let you guess for yourself. Not to mention the food, it was yummy, each meal a feast and lots of variety. The home made jams and bread were irresistible and so delicious – thank goodness we didn’t have to worry about our weight. The landscape was open, and we were always surrounded by mountains in the distance.

In Pakistan we were always surrounded by up-close rugged mountains. In China the mountains were a little further out, and in Kyrgyzstan the mountains were further out again.

This historical monument known as a ‘caravanserai’ is located in the province of Tash Rabat. It is a 15th century stone building which was used as a roadside inn where travelers could stop for the night or a few days to rest.

Our accommodation for the night run by a very friendly family where Mum was the chef. The food was soo good and plenty of it. It was located just down the track from the above caravanserai. Each yurt has it’s own fire which was lite early evening and again early morning to keep their guests warm. The fuel was cow dung – it didn’t smell!

Me in Istanbul. The mosaic wall was made from broken ceramics in the owner’s shop after a severe earthquake a few years ago. It was quite spectacular. I loved my 36 hrs in Istanbul.

Final word

Security was not an issue for our group – whether that was because we had local guides I will never know. Since 9/11, tourists to North Pakistan have declined significantly, and many of the small businesses are really struggling. We were requested many times to tell our family and friends about how safe it was and if you visit you will be made very welcome. The people really want the tourists back and that is understandable.

The trip was everything I had hoped for plus much more. Whenever I talk about it or recall an experience I had, I have nothing but gratified memories. It was well organised and local guides were fantastic. Would recommend RedSpokes Tours for an adventure.

Till next time, Goldcard Gal! 🙂

The Tuesday Cycling Group – is it more than cycling?

30 July, 2018 6 Comments

Every Tuesday without fail many cyclists of varying abilities, ages and fitness levels meet at Gordonton to have a ride with likeminded people. The weather generally dictates the number of participants.

I think this is the only time the “Tuesday Group” has appeared on the front page of any newspaper – the local Taupiri Times. I can’t remember what year this was, does anyone know?

The Tuesday Group in the early/mid 1990’s (Absent Don Laurie)

The Tuesday Group was started way back in the early/mid 90’s by Peter Southart (3rd from right), the mastermind of the Hamilton to Whangamata bike ride and Hamilton Masters cycling. We started and finished at the Taupiri Tavern. We rode as one group with the last few k’s always at a much faster pace. At the end of a ride a well deserved ‘pot of tea’ was shared and enjoyed (no flat whites or latte’s in those days) along with very interesting stories and thought-provoking conversations!! In those early days 10 or so riders was considered a great turn-out. Many of the original riders are still riding today. Now that number is often 20 – 30 riders in winter and many more in the warmer weather and we ride in two groups – a faster group and a slower group, with the pace picking up much further out than the last few k’s!!

I feel these Tuesday rides are much more than cycling and getting fitter! You get to meet, socialise, and ride with people you would never normally associate with – because you share a common interest/passion. When the ride gets underway and people have sorted out their position within the pack, you can hear folks chatting about all sorts of topics from cycling to holidays, family, work, latest equipment etc etc. Without fail there is always much good-humoured bantering before, during and after a ride!!

Lately the topic of “health” has had much discussion, especially colonoscopies, and that dreaded word “cancer”. Our esteemed leader Brooke has recently had to face life changing surgery. Prior to this major event, he shared his journey with us which encouraged many to talk, reflect, share, and seriously consider our own health and those little niggles that we have not had checked out!! Many realising the importance of and hopefully having regular medical check ups!!

Our thoughts are with you Brooke as you recover and with you Sharon as you support him and ensure he does as he’s supposed too!! We all admire your positively and “let’s get this sorted” attitude Brooke and Sharon. We look forward to the day when you can rejoin the group again Brooke.

At the end of a weekly ride we meet for coffee and catch-up! We hear about up-in-coming rides and cycling adventures people are doing/hoping to do. A nice end to a good ride and even better company!

Are these Tuesday rides more than cycling? I would love to hear your thoughts and experiences!

For me personally I’ve made strong lifelong friends and spent many happy hours in their company cycling the back-roads and enjoying our stunning countryside scenery.

If you are a cyclist and would enjoy a bike ride on Tuesday’s, please feel free to join us. We leave at 10 am.

Till next time Goldcard gal! 🙂

PS: It is with much sadness that our ‘esteemed leader’ Brooke passed away on 4 November, 2018 at his home. He will be missed by many. Brooke, I didn’t realise that when we rode together or with ‘the pack’ we were creating memories, I just thought we were having fun!! Rest in peace Brooke.

GoldCard Gal

The Forgotten World Highway