South Island - NZ

It’s the night before

Sari and I have returned to Wanaka to ride the Motatapu.  Our cycling adventure has been more or less organised around this event – so it’s always been at the back of our minds!!  We returned here on Wednesday and have spent the two nights with Colin & Pam Kane, (brother of Geoff, in Levin).  Colin and Pam were wonderful hosts and looked after us extremely well.  Pam has stunning gardens, got some great ideas for mine.

Thursday afternoon they took us out to Pam’s special place – Pigeon Island, also known as Mou Waho in Lake Wanaka.  It’s an island, within a lake within an island, within a lake within an island, within the sea.  Do you get that logic??  Took me a while.  Lake Wanaka was as smooth as glass and the water very clear and a shades of blue/green.  We were surrounded by magnificent mountains, Mt Aspiring in the distance – such a special treat.

To end the day we went to Cardrona Hotel for dinner.  It had been some years since I had last visited it.  It was busy and the food we shared was delicious.  It was a treat to zap along the highway in a car – the kilometers soon slipped by without any fatigue!!!

I’m sitting in our backpackers room at Matterhorn South Lodge & Backpackers writing this blog hoping to take my mind of the event tomorrow, which incidentally I’m feeling anxious about.  After weeks on the road having ridden some amazing trails and got through some tricky situations, why now do I start to doubt myself?  Both Sari and I feel the number of people riding the trail will make for a more tricky ride – we are so used to having the tracks to ourselves knowing what each other is doing.

We have been told there are many river crossings, which could cause me some issues, but guess I can always get off and walk through them – so what if I have wet feet, least of my concerns! I just have to keep reminding myself that I’m there to enjoy the landscape, scenery and finish the ride in the best possible way I can.  At least we are both so much stronger and fitter than we were a few weeks back and as long as we ride our ride and not anyone else’s we’ll do OK.  We don’t have to cycle with our panniers and all that extra weight, so that will be a bonus – quite looking forward to that experience!

We have a 10 km ride out to the start Glendhu Bay, which will be a good warm up.  We have entered as “Weekend Warriors”, 2nd to last group to leave before the electric bikes – so here’s hoping all those fast/crazy people have gone – we can catch them up later – yeh right??

We have organised a bus from Arrowtown (finish) back to Wanaka for 5 pm.  So guess there is not much more that I can write, it’s shower and off to bed to read.  We both have everything organised for an early start and a long day ahead.

Course Map

Below is the course map.  The ride goes through three stations:  Motatapu, Soho and Glencoe and covers 48 kms.  You only have one chance a year to do this ride or run.  The course crosses many rivers, climbs many hills and has many steep descents (in my view – Sari will disagree – she loves them).

Saturday 10th March, 2018

It was a chilly morning when we left to ride out to Glendhu Bay – the only other bikes we saw were those on the back of or on top of vehicles!  To cut a long story short, the event was extremely well organised.  Approximately 2,000 riders left in groups which were then divided into 2 or 3 riders let go at a time.  This certainly stopped the bottle necks or fighting for positions.  The other events also held were:  Ultra distance marathon (51 kms over mountains), marathon and shorter runs/walks around Arrowtown, approximately 700 odd runners and walkers.  Sari and I did notice that we and one other person were the only ones with bike carriers – majority of people had very nice mountain bikes – many with rear suspension.

The Southern high country is spectacular, when I had a chance to admire it – the ride took most of my concentration as it was a pretty rough track with plenty of river crossing (which I got better as the day went on).  Plenty of rocks to avoid and/or cycle over – again I got better as the day went, and of course other cyclists.   The down section part of the course had many larger rivers to cross, many of us walking across them, sometimes the river depth was over our knees, at least it cooled the legs and cleaned the bike.   A cyclist mentioned to me as he was passing “here’s a tip for you, get your bike serviced as soon as possible, it will save you many $s in the long run’.  That thought hadn’t occurred to me and perhaps he ran a bike shop?  People on the ride were generally very considerate and patient.

Reflections for the day:  I was pleased with myself, my confidence did grow as the day went on.  If I was to ride it again or do something similar I definitely need to improve or get training on mountain bike riding.  So many people raced past me on the downhills – it was quite embarrassing.  But I’m pleased I didn’t come off my bike (a couple of close calls) and had no mechanical problems.  Sari did great, she was in her element and was heard “whooping” as she went down the hills. 🙂

Glad that ride is over and looking forward to a good night sleep!  I would love to walk it one day – to really absorb the surroundings.

Nite night and take care – GoldCard gal 🙂

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Links   I should have mentioned this earlier.  In case you haven’t noticed any time I mention a business or cycle trail etc I always include a link to that website, in case you want further information.  I could go through manually and add code to all the links or I could highlight the text to identify links.  As a reader, which would you prefer – underscore text or highlighted text?  Please let me know for future blogs.

“Without dreams where are the adventures?”, these were Sari’s words of wisdom this morning as we cycled along the quiet country back-roads of Central Otago.  Hawkdun Hills on our right and Black Stone Hills on our left, with the big blue sky above.  The Hawkdun Hills changing colour depending on the sun – quite captivating to watch.

Clutha Gold Cycle Trail

This is a two-day adventure from Lawrence to Lake Roxburgh Dam, (or vice versa) following the mightly Clutha Mata-au River.

Lawrence – Miller’s Flat

27 February, 2018.  Belinda dropped us off at Lawrence, an early gold mining town.  It’s a cute town with very old buildings that seem to be well cared for.  In the gold mining days Lawrence was where the highest population of Chinese were settled.

This afternoon we are following the Clutha Gold Trail, through to Miller’s Flat.  This trail passes through four settlements: Lawrence, Beaumont, Miller’s Flat and Roxburgh.  It is approx 73 kms long, full of variety; the terrain is undulating, flat and meandering – mainly travelling beside the mighty Clutha River.  That river is huge.  We rode through a 440m-long Big Hill Tunnel.

The little towns we’ve pass through have some beautiful old stone buildings, some restored and some not. I’ve learnt so much about the gold rush days – gee they were hardly souls.

We found a lovely camping ground in Miller’s Flat – Miller’s Flat Holiday Park.  The new camp owners originally came from Levin.  We were advised to go across the bridge for dinner to the Millers Flat Tavern where I ordered West Coast Whitebait fritters, salad and chips – oh boy they were delicious and Sari had lamb shanks.  As we sat down to wait for our dinner a lady from the next table started talking to us about what bike rides we had been doing.  As it turned out they had seen us cycling Mt Nicholas to Mossburn and passed us in their camper-vans as we battled wind and rain on Sunday.  One of the driver’s recognised my purple hair of all things, he said “it was blowing out the side of my helmet“.  It’s been surprising the people we have met in the different parts of Southland and Otago who have been on the same adventures as us.  Many are Kiwis tripping around in their camper-vans in small groups.

Miller’s Flat – Alexander (51 kms)

End of Clutha Gold Trail and beginning of Roxburgh Gorge Trail

28 February, 2018.  It was a very foggy start from Miller’s Flat, heading towards Roxburgh continuing alongside the mighty Clutha River.  The Roxburgh Dam was very interesting and rather large.  This is technically the end of the Clutha Gold Trail and beginning of the Roxburgh Gorge Trail (this trail takes you to Alexander including a 13 km boat trip).

The Gorge part of the trail I found tricky at times (out of my comfort zone stuff – which is easy) as I’m not a natural mountain bike rider.  So very thankful for disc brakes on my bike – they certainly help with the step downhill sections and those hair raising hair-pin turns, which I’m hopeless at.   The track had a great surface, was up and down, with stunning views.

At the end of gorge section you have the option of turning around and going back or take a boat ride to the next part of the trail.  We had organised the 13 km boat ride with Clutha River Cruises on the mighty Clutha River to take us to Doctors Point (12 kms from Alexander).  The boat driver explained the gold mining history to us and showed us a number of old goldminers’ homes.

Apparently what a lot of people do is ride in and out on the trails, choosing not to take the boat trip.  I’m glad we paid the $s, the experience was well worth it – considering I may never do this ride again.

We’re camping in Alexander Holiday Camp.  The facilities are great and this is the first time I’ve actually prepared a meal.  We often eaten out, or eat dehydrated meals with a few add-ins.  I’ve missed cooking meals.

Wealthy miner’s home – Roxburgh Gorge We had a lovely visit from (my brother) Les and (sister-in-law) Carol who where on their way back to Cromwell – shame we didn’t have enough food to feed them!

Tomorrow we start riding the Otago Rail Trail, so good night – sleep tight!!  🙂

Otago Rail Trail

Alexander – Oturehua (64 kms)

1 March 2018.  Really looking forward to finally riding some of the Otago Rail Trail.  As usual we got away in good time after being photographed by an American cyclist (Larz) who was amazed at what we are doing.  He also said “if you two were staying longer, I would have loved to have recorded a video interview“.  Yeh right we both thought.  As we cycled off Sari passed the comment “we must be starting to look really old and haggard otherwise, why are so many people amazed at what we are doing?”  That comment gave me something to ponder on for the next few kilometers – without a definite answer.

We stopped for my coffee fix at Muddy Creek Café in Omakau (the only place selling coffee).  Had a delicious peach muffin and OK coffee.  The landscape along the trail is quite stunning.  We imagined ourselves on the old steam train slowly chugging up the inclines, through the tunnels and down again to Oturehau.  The trail winds through the Ida Valley – a huge expansive valley surrounded by hills and looking very green after the rains.  This was a place I’d read about and to be finally here – in the valley cycling, was special to me.

As we cycled along the trail we came across more interesting people also riding.  This South African (couple who live in Auckland) were out enjoying the surrounds.  They were riding 10 kms out to have lunch which was nicely packed in her blue and fawn spotted bag and back again to their camper-van.  Her lipstick and helmet colours matched perfectly – she looked very classy on the trail.

We found a camping ground called The Crow’s Nest Accommodation in Oturehau.  It’s a delightful place with a variety of accommodation options where we pitched our tents.  The hosts Bill and Mel had only recently purchased (September, 2017) the camp ground.  Bill had grown up around Central Otago and was keen to return.  They had come from Tauranga.  The kitchen is very well equipped and we had the place to ourselves – it was very relaxing.

Last year I read the book “A Way Home” by Jillian Sullivan.  The book was about her building her own straw bale home here in Oturehau.  Guess what, it is next door to the camp ground.  We popped over to have a chat with Jillian but unfortunately she is away.  Her straw bale home was one of the reason’s I wanted to visit Oturehua.  Next door to her home we saw a little mud-brick building in the process of being built – it looked very cute, another material I’m very interested in.  Oh, how I wished she was at home, I’m sure we could have had an interesting conversation.  Jillian does do AirBnB which we’d tried to book the night before but was not available – that would have been an amazing experience.

We had a very nice meal at local hotel (did have to wait an hour for it) and then home to bed.

Oturehau – unplanned rest day – full of surprises

2 March, 2018.  During the night when I got up to go to the toilet I found I couldn’t walk straight – wobbled all over the place and had to hold onto objects to get to the toilet.   A very frightening experience.  A first for me but probably something some of you have experienced!  Went back to bed and hoped by the morning all would be well – but of course that was expecting a bit much.  We decided to have an unplanned rest day here in Oturehau.  We visited Hayes Engineering Works and Homestead for our coffee fix and had a quiet day relaxing and chatting with the locals.

Guess what, Jillian (straw bale home builder) arrived home in the early evening and I was able to catch up with her.  She said “I often get readers calling in and only too happy to share my home“.  She also showed me her little mud-brick building outside which she and her son are building.  It’s going to be her studio, as she is an author.  They had got the old mud-bricks from an old building within the district that was tumbling down, cleaned the bricks and now using them.  Jillian did say “building her own home has given her much joy and happiness along with the hard work, but so rewarding.”  How I would have loved to stay and learn some extra skills.  But she has given me many ideas/thoughts to ponder over the coming kilometers.

The extra day in Oturehua gave us the opportunity to get to chat to the locals a little more and get a feel for the community which seems very active and engaged.  Bill our camp host recorded for NIWA the 9 am temperature and rain fall.  The wives were baking for the up-incoming ewe sale on Monday.  One of the local women were cleaning the public toilets, and at a recent community meeting 80% of the 30 residents attended, which is quite normal.

Oturehua – somewhere on Thomson’s Gorge Track, Dunstan Mountains via St Bathans (54 kms)

3 March, 2018.  Some months ago I’d seen a section in St Bathans I thought sounded interesting! (just a phase I seem to go through) so while we were up this way, why not check out the St Bathans section.

As soon as we cycled into St Bathans I knew I couldn’t live here, and when we saw the section there was no way I could build there – no wonder it was cheap!!!  St Bathans is in a valley and would get very little sun in the winter months when it would be extremely cold and a little too far away from towns etc.  We had a very interesting hour there though.  The people we met:  firstly the abseiler from Auckland who lives in St Bathans for 3 weeks, then flies back to Auckland to work for 1 week and then returns.  He has brought an old barn and doing that up on the inside.  We had a brief hello to his girlfriend who comes over from Dunedin, she has the cutest little house – it was in the movie “Light between the oceans”.

We saw table and chairs outside the Vulcan Hotel along with an open sign, so we assumed it was open for business.  But it wasn’t open yet, they’d had a hard Saturday night and the cleaner was still working.  Luckily for us she was happy to make us a coffee give us a delicious date scone each.  Then we saw the owner of the pub, she was old – much older than us, hunched over and didn’t say a word – she gave the impression she wasn’t interested in communicating with customers yet!!

While we were waiting for our coffees etc, in walked the reason for the previous late night.  He was in charge of a group of mature male trail bike riders (from Christchurch) who had stayed the night, he’d come to settle bill – well part of it $350.00 was his share, his mate came in after and settled the rest $300 – it must have been some night!!

As we sat outside enjoying our coffee & scones, the main street (the only street) was choka with campervans, motorbike riders, utes and cars.  There was so much happening – we couldn’t quite believe what we were experiencing.

Thomson’s Gorge Track over Dunstan Mountains

This afternoon’s big ride was starting our climb over the Thomson Gorge Track, which takes us over the Dunstan Mountains to Tarras, Bendigo and on to Cromwell.  My brother Les had suggested this ride to us; he had driven over some time ago and thought it’d would be a great journey.  Motorists and cyclists have very different perspectives when checking out roads and tracks!!!  While we pushed, pulled and sweated our way up the first 3 kms or thereabouts, the rest of the ride was unique.  Being surrounded by mountains, on narrow single drive tracks (not that smooth), with no other noise than what you make yourself – it’s special to both Sari and I.  It’s the first time I didn’t feel nervous coming cautiously down the steep rocky sections of road; reckons it’s about time my confidence level improved but also about gaining confidence in my bike.  We never saw or heard another vehicle for 22 hrs – it was magic!

We are camped somewhere in the Dunstan Mountains which had a delightful little stream running between our tents.  Wide and deep enough for us to have a bath/wash and get fresh drinking water.  Tomorrow we will ride out tomorrow to Cromwell.  It’s 7.45 pm, Sari has gone to bed and I’m about to get into bed and read.  It’s been another very special day, and we feel very blessed.

When we camp the only sign you know we’ve been there is the flattened grass where we pitched our tents.    Nite nite

Mid Thomsons Gorge Track – Cromwell (65 kms)

As we hadn’t managed to get to the top of Thomson’s Gorge Track, we knew we’d be in for an early morning climb.  We weren’t to be disappointed but with the sun coming over the mountains we couldn’t complain.  Up on top of the saddle the views down to the Clutha Valley were impressive.  It was a long winding downhill, we were thankful we didn’t come up this side.

After reading the book Dust to Gold, by John Perriam, home of Shrek I’ve always dreamed of visiting the Tarras Country Store and Bendigo area.  When we finally arrived at the Cromwell – Tarras Road intersection, the Tarras Country Store was only 7 kms away but in the opposite direction.  Thankfully Sari was very accommodating and said “yes, let’s go and see your café“.  The Perriam Merino shop which is part of the Tarras Country Store has very fashionable merino garments for all the family.  It could have been very easy has spend many $s there, the clothing is beautiful and quite unusual – just as well we didn’t have room to carry any additional clothing.

After a delicious brunch it was back on the road to Cromwell, cycling around the Bendigo Loop to check the Bendigo vineyards.  The landscape is so rocky and dry you could wonder how ever do grapes grow here?

It was wonderful to return to Cromwell and be very well looked after by Les and Carol.  Time for story telling, reflections, washing and bike cleaning.

We cycle to Wanaka on Wednesday to ride the Matatapu ride on Saturday.  Then it’s off to ride the Alps to Ocean, our final adventure.  Norm (Sari’s husband) will pick us in Oamaru and drive us back to Picton around 16/17th March.  Till next time, take care out there!  GoldCard gal  🙂

 

 

As we are having an unplanned rest day, it’s an ideal time to post the next series of adventures.

As we cycle our way around the South Island, I’m always thinking of blog titles.  Before this adventure, a good friend and also blogger of mine Denise and I met with Venetia Sherson (freelance journalist) for tips about writing.  Her number one tip was the title – it must be catchy and/or attention grabbing.  So, have my titles been working??  Have they encouraged you to read the blogs?  Love to hear your feedback.  That was another tip Venetia gave us, “ask your readers for their thoughts, opinions and ideas”.

“If you think you can, or think you can’t, either way you are right” is a quote I read a long time ago but never fully understood it until now.  There have been many a climb or tricky part on a track that I’ve thought “yes I can” or “no I’m not sure” and sure enough, either way I’m right.  It’s been empowering to realise how powerful the mind is.

Queenstown – Walter Peak & Mt Nicholas Stations

23 February, 2018.  We caught a shuttle bus from Cromwell to Queenstown as several people had advised us of the amount of traffic on that road with little or no road verge.  If we valued our lives – best to take the bus.  It was very scenic travelling through the Kawerau Gorge and seeing the wineries and lifestyle blocks.  Even saw a house that was once on NZ Grand Designs!  We were pleased with our decision to take the shuttle.

We had organised for the gearing on our bikes to be checked over in Queenstown at Bikeaholic, which proved to be worthwhile – no more niggling noises.  Queenstown was abuzz with tourists – unbelievable.  It has certainly changed since I was last there – we wondered how the locals are finding it.  Guess if you are in the tourist industry it must be great for business.  We enjoyed a very tasty lunch at Madam Woo’s.  As we were walking towards the ferry we came across this wine tasting van.

We sailed over to Walter Peak Station on the 4 pm sailing on the Earnslaw, (2 pm sailing was completely booked out). We were surrounded by picturesque scenery and tourists!!  I had read about Walter Peak Station many years ago never dreaming I’d ever make it there.  It was magic to finally see the homestead and stunning gardens.  There were a number of outbuildings which were focused on tourism and many young people assisting the tourism side of the business.

When we embarked Sari was keen to hit the road and get some distance from Walter Peak and the hustle and bustle of tourists there.  We found a fabulous little camp site overlooking Lake Wakatipu.   Had dinner down on the lake edge.  We reflected on how fortunate we are to be able to have these experiences and acknowledged our appreciation for our environment – we are truly blessed.

Mt Nicholas Station – Mavora Lakes (54 kms)

24 February, 2018.  Our ride this morning was truly the best, unpaved roads, virtually no traffic and surrounded by magnificent mountain tops and ridges.  You ride through Walter Peak Station and then through Mt Nicholas Station.  This station provides the merino wool for Icebreaker.  Didn’t see many sheep but saw plenty of cattle which all looked in very good condition.

Along the way we meet other cyclists: Alison from Christchurch, she was riding from Mavora Lakes to Walter Peak Station, her husband was picking her up in Queenstown.  Ute & Eddy Six from Germany, they have taken a year off to cycle various places around the world.  We must have chatted to them for at least 30 minutes, had our photos taken and exchanged contact details for when they travel north.  They were an amazing couple.

Their blog is six-travel.com, they even had a blog card to give me, co-ordinated cycle clothing advertising their blog – they had it right – they looked very professional.  Made me realise I also have endless opportunities with my blog:  Sari just laughed when I mentioned I could have cycling gear, panniers branded etc etc with goldcardgal.com!!

As we were coming down from the highest point Sari saw a little old tin shack off to our left – so what do we do?  Of course we cycle up to it and check it out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we pass these old shacks and relics makes us want to know more about the people who lived and worked here.  What was the country side like – covered in bush and if so, what type of bush?

We had another fantastic camp site at Mavora Lakes.  What a beautiful place to stay – variety of camping options available, if you want to know more check Mavora Lakes out.  It seems very popular – many campervans and tents further up the lake, it is a DoC facility.

If I wasn’t recording this blog I certainly would have given up on recording our daily events.  Over the years I’ve tried keeping a journal and always after a few days I stop writing – can’t be bothered.  But having my blog had made me be persistent in writing something each night before I climb into my sleeping bag to read.  The temperature has dropped and what I love is that I now have to zip up my sleeping bag to keep snug as a bug!!  Tomorrow Lumsden here we come.

Mavora Lakes – Lumsden (67kms)

25 February 2018.  The north-west wind blew very strongly all night, luckily we were tucked away within a beech forest which sheltered us from the  wind.  Today we are cycling down to Mossburn – more or less south-east.  Don’t think I’ve ever experienced such force of the wind and found it frightening being buffeted by the wind gusts.  We hardly had to pedal going down the long gravel road.  Sari said she hit 35 km p/h and had to apply her brakes to keep control of her bike.  We cycled part of the Round the Mountain cycle trail (great trail in the right weather) which followed one of the many popular fly fishing streams within this area.  Eventually we called it quits on the cycle path and took to the main road for last 10 kms to Mossburn.  I topped 40 km p/h without peddling – just the strong north-west wind blowing me –  it was unbelievable!!

Dome Café was our coffee fix and food stop.  As we got off our bikes (drenched from the rain, not a good look) we saw several other cyclists, they were heading up to where we had come from.  We spoke about the horrendous conditions and said they’d be lucky to make it to Mavora Lakes.  They decided to go ahead anyway.  Interestingly both Sari and I felt they thought “what do those two old birds know about rough conditions!!”  We thought we’d love to see how they cope!!  (Answer to come the next day)

We enjoyed a pleasant ride from Mossburn to Lumsden along the Round the Mountain cycle trail that runs along side the main road.

As it was still raining when we rode into Lumsden we found a cabin at Lumsden Camp Ground.  Always welcome when you don’t have to put up a tent in the rain.  Lumsden offers “free camper-van sites” within the centre of the township.  After speaking with a local she said it’s not wanted by them.

Sari had organised for a friend of her’s from Invercargill to join us here in her bus.  Belinda and her husband Stan are old tramping friends of Sari and Norm’s.   We also meet a couple of Dutch cyclists (they are cycling around the South Island and also taken a year off).  We had a fabulous evening sharing a meal, chatting about experiences, travels and adventures we’ve had.

Lumsden – Mandeville  (47 kms)

26 February, 2018.  Short ride today as Belinda was taking our panniers for us.  As we rode out of Lumsden who should we see but the cyclists we saw yesterday at Dome Café.  They said they only rode about 7 kms and realised they weren’t going to make it to Marova Lakes so came back to the café for another coffee and stayed the night in Lumsden.  As you can imagine Sari and I were feeling pretty pleased with ourselves – “see we do know what we are talking about”.  Even the gung-ho man admitted it was too tough for him.

We had a very pleasant cycle to Mandeville riding across the Waimea Plains.  It seemed strange to see sheep grazing on lush green pastures on one side of the road and see dairy cows on the other.  Had our morning coffee fix at Miss Cocoa – beautiful little café in an old hotel.  Tracy that is where I took those pottery photos.

Tonight we are staying in Dolamore Park, a beautiful park in Croydon Bush Scenic Reserve, in the Hokonui Hills, just 10 minutes’ drive from Gore.

Tomorrow Belinda is driving us to Lawrence where we will start the Clutha Gold Cycle Trail.

I’m signing off now, as I’m hoping to catch up with the lady that build a straw bale house (next to where we are staying) in Oturehua.  Hopefully more to tell you next time.   Take care out there – till next time GoldCard gal  🙂

It seems days since we were in Haast!  My apologies for the delay, it’s getting the time and Internet connection to be able to post my blogs.  Now at Miller’s Flat on Clutha Gold Trail, more on this later (27 February, 2018).

Pine Gove Motels – Haast township (94 kms)

16 February, 2018.  It sure did rain during the night, along with the predicted thunder and lightening – oh to be inside.  It was still pouring down in the morning as we packed out bags wondering what to do.  Both Sari and I said “let’s do it” the weather forecast is predicted to clear later in the day and after all “you can’t get any wetter than wet”.

Off we rode out onto the main road towards Haast.  Sure enough it wasn’t long before the rain stopped and we had to start taking our wet weather gear off.  It was stunning riding along the road, surrounded mostly be bush.  We stopped for my usual morning coffee – this time at Salmon Cafe.  Muffin delicious – can’t say the same about the coffee.  Never mind it’s the rest that is important.

We had lunch beside Lake Moeraki, a delightful lake beside the main road.  While eating lunch several people stopped off to take photos of the lake and of course have a chat.  Always interesting the people you meet!  We have got into the habit of always boiling the billy for lunch to make a hot cup of soup, which really seems to recharge us for the afternoon’s physical activity.

Lunch stop – Lake Moeraki- Sari boiling the billy

At Knights Point I had this gentleman with a slight Irish accent come up to me and ask “Did I know a Sari?”  So I quickly pointed her out to him.  A very happy reunion took place.  Grieg and Sari had meet last year near Bridge to Nowhere in North Island when he and Sari were on different cycling adventures.  He was over here visiting NZ with his son from Dublin.  What are the chances of that happening??

 

Haast township was a very welcome sight.  It had been a long day 9 hrs since we left in the morning.   The only accommodation we could get was a motel – so we pampered ourselves to two nights of luxury accommodation (to us) and a rest day.

Haast Rest day

17 February, 2018.  Didn’t do much today it was great to chill out and catch up on washing, go for walk and we meet up again with Deny our Canadian/french cyclist whom we first meet south of Hokitika.  We all went out for a great dinner at a restaurant in Haast – can’t remember the name – the lamb shanks were most delicious.

Haast to other side of Haast (74 kms)

18 February, 2018.  We listened to the rain pouring down during the night – not really wanting to know it was time to get up.  At 6.30 Sari woke us with a cup of tea.  When I refer to ‘us” we had an extra visitor sharing our room at Heritage Park Motels.  We meet Deny just south of Hokitika, shared room with him in Franz Joseph and last night we meet him again in Haast.  As he couldn’t get any accommodation we invited him to share our room.  He’s a French/Canadian cyclist taking a year off and touring various parts of the world.  He’s great company and always happy to give a hand.  He was cycling to Wanaka.   Sari & I cycling over the Haast until we find a campsite somewhere in the bush.  Which is where I’m writing now.  We have a fabulous site in amongst the beech forest, can still hear the road, but the traffic noise has reduced considerably.

The cycle over the Haast was stunning, and because of the heavy rain during the night there were many waterfalls and high flowing streams.  The bush was beautiful, it was so peaceful riding up the valley with the Haast River on our left below road level until about 11 am.  Then the camper vans, buses and tourists started, it is mind blowing the number of people visiting here.  Riding the Haast isn’t that bad except for about 2 – 3 kms of very steep gradient – walking and push/pulling our bikes.  We meet up with Deny a couple of times today having breaks.  Not sure we’ll see him again.

When we got to the top of the major climb in the Haast Pass Sari stopped to chat to the road workers, (we both had acknowledged earlier in the morning what a fantastic job they do, clearing the slips etc and keeping the road clear).  She said “we think you do a great job looking after the roads”.  The older workman’s response was “Those weren’t the words I was expecting to come out of your mouth after you have just struggled up one of the steepest stretches of roads in NZ, but thank you.”

At the top of Haast we had a very welcome lunch of soup, crackers and cheese.  It was quiet cold so we thought we’d have a quick walk to the summit to see where the Haast and Makaroa rivers start on each side of the range.  When we returned we meet two Australian cyclists – brother and sister.  We’d seen their bikes earlier in the day and both Sari and I immediately thought “young Germans”, flash bikes with all the gear.  What a surprise we got when we actually meet the riders face to face.   She was 69 and not sure how old her brother was but Sari got her life story within the first 5 minutes – she’s not actually a cyclist but supporting her brother who had recently lost his wife to suicide.  Had to take our hats off to her, she was doing really well.  There is an instant camaraderie when you meet other cyclists.  Everyone always keen to hear where you’re going and where you’ve come from, etc etc.

Sari is already in bed 7 pm and I’m about to get into my sleep bag and hopefully finish my book.  It will be a cool night so good to zip up my bag and be cosy and warm.  Tomorrow Wanaka here we come. 🙂

Just over Haast to Wanaka 81kms

We had a fabulous campsite in the beech forest close to a river.  Slept well but had a possum visitor.  As it was slightly drizzling we had a later start about 8.30.  Stopped off for coffee down at Makaroa cafe and then headed towards Lake Hawea.  Strong head wind, raining and getting colder – it was hard work.  No lake views today, which was disappointing. By the time we arrived at Lake Hawea we were cold, wet and in need of something hot.

We followed the cycle trail from Lake Hawea through to Wanaka what a fabulous ride.  Sari needed to stop to do some maintenance on her bike and it was then I checked for cell phone coverage and was lucky enough to retrieve messages.  Les (brother in Cromwell) had phoned so I immediately phoned and Carol (sister-in-law)  insisted on coming to Wanaka to pick us up because of the impending cyclone Gita.  This was the first time we had heard about a possible cyclone.  Being out of cell phone coverage for the past few days doesn’t help.  We had tried to get indoor accommodation in Wanaka but no luck.  It was great seeing Carol and being in their warm home with the fire going and being well looked after.  Certainly beats putting up and sleeping in a wet tent.  Oh we slept well, knowing we were safe with nowhere to go the next day.

Cromwell  – rest day

21 February.  Cromwell only had rain and little wind during Cyclone Gita.  We had a lovely relaxing day with Les and Carol.  Les took us for a guided tour in the car around Cromwell and we meet Carol for lunch at the Forage, a cafe and information centre.  Cromwell is a great little town, l had never visited it before and found it had a great feel.   We restocked our supplies ready for the next few big days.  Les helped us plan a proposed route for the coming week or so.

Visited Bannockburn

22 February.  Woke up to snow on the surrounding hills of Cromwell – gee it is stunning and a little chilly!  With another leisure day it’s probably a good time for reflection.  The contrast in landscape from West Coast to Central Otago is the opposite, from lush dense bush to dry barren ridges, many with vineyards – such a contrast. The speed of the traffic is faster and much more traffic than West Coast.  We are proud of our journey so far, the progress we have made and the amazing experiences we have had.  Sari & I reckon we are pretty good travelling companions and looking forward to the next 3 – 4 weeks.

Sari & I cycled out to Bannockburn to check out the gold sluicing areas and have a coffee.  I had my best ever coffee (on this trip) at Black Rabbit Kitchen & Café in Bannockburn.  It was just about as good as what Tina makes at River Kitchen in Hamilton.  Delightful little cafe.

After our walk around the gold sluicing area we visited Desert Heart winery for lunch a platter which Sari so kindly shouted.  It was superb sitting outside overlooking Cromwell, Dunstan Lake, and surrounding hills which had a light covering of snow.  It was a perfect day.

It’s been great spending time with Les & Carol and catching up.  Family is important especially so I think as we get older!  I wonder why that is?  Perhaps it’s because we acknowledge our time here is limited (so to speak), we are more accepting and forgiving as we get older and we accept our siblings as they are??  What are your thoughts?

We are off to Queenstown tomorrow to start our ride over Walter Peak Station – can’t wait.  That is it until next time.  Goldcard gal 🙂

 

Our angels were looking after us today.  Sari and I have been out of cell phone coverage for approx 4 days, and hadn’t seen a TV since we left Reefton so had no idea about the coming cyclone.

Thank you for your texts and phone messages.  It was quite by accident I decided to check my phone for cell phone coverage not far out of Wanaka, (we were enjoying riding the cycle trail from Lake Hawea to Wanaka – a must do). Low and behold there were many messages and one in particular was from my brother Les (who lives in Cromwell).  When I returned his call, his wife Carol insisted on coming to Wanaka to pick us up and take us to their home in Cromwell.  There was no way she was going let us stay in our tents tonight and we weren’t that keen either!!  We had tried our best to find any sort of accommodation in Wanaka, but like so many other towns in this part of New Zealand – completely booked out.

So thank you for your concerns, we are well and being very well looked after.  We will sleep better tonight knowing we won’t be blown or washed away.  Take care and thanks again for your concerns and thoughts.  GoldCard gal 🙂