Cycling Adventures

“What a difference a day makes” is exactly how I felt when I got back on my bike after a rest day in Reefton.  My body felt recharged and my enthusiasm was back – so to speak.  Little did I know it would be several more days before another rest day!

Reefton – Greymouth (88 kms)

We cycled to Greymouth via Ikamatau and Blackball, on the Taylorville – Blackball Road.  Much quieter back road through dairy farm country.  Stopped off and visited the Pike River Memorial.  Very moving experience – every miner who died had a special rock with their name, names of loved ones left behind and a variety of memorabilia representing each person.  The sign below showed where the different miners had come from.

Arriving in Greymouth was quite a shock, it was abuzz with people and tourist buses.  We couldn’t get over the number of tourists waiting on the railway station platform for a train ride to Christchurch.  The train was due to arrive at any time. 

We rode out to the end of the Greymouth Bar lookout to view the mouth of Grey River and read about the shipwrecks etc that have happened of the years.  This is also where The West Coast Wilderness Trail starts which we will ride tomorrow.

Stayed in a campsite and went out for dinner at Paroa Hotel which was a short walk along the walkway/cycle trail.  We were very hungry and when one of the menu options was for Pork Belly roast and vegetables – I couldn’t resist.  It was delicious while I was eating it, but ooh was my stomach upset for several hours afterwards!!!  Not a good night’s sleep – thank goodness I remembered my Carom seeds – which incidentally helps upset stomachs.

The West Coast Wilderness Trail – Greymouth – Hokitika (97 kms)

I awoke this morning “out of sorts” the result of that Pork Belly roast and lack of sleep!!  It seemed to take me ages to pack up and get on the road.  In all honestly the last thing I felt like was riding.  Had to have a severe talking to myself to get my act together and make the most of it.  It’s a fabulous trail, very well marked, – gradual inclines, amazing scenery and of course no traffic.  You follow a variety of different trails from single track to 4 wheel drive.  Much of the time surrounded in beautiful West Coast bush.

Cowboy Paradise is the half way point where we ate lunch consisting of delicious bacon and egg toasted sandwiches with endless cups of tea.  It’s an interesting destination in the middle of the wilderness.  The buildings are very well made and bit like walking into a salon through those saloon type doors.  There was even cowboy clothes in the corner of the large room – apparently you can be a cowboy or cowgirl for a day!!  Both Sari and I felt the owner was different – something not quite right about him!!  (Since our visit and whenever we talk about Cowboy Paradise – the comments and feedback have confirmed our thoughts and feelings!!!) 

As it was only 2 pm we decided to continue to Hokitika.  Majority of way down-hill riding.  We followed more beautiful trails, did a walk to Lake Kaniere and rode into Hokitika approx 5.30 pm.  We thought we’d be able to get accommodation!!  But this wasn’t to be, eventually we found a campsite 5 kms north – it was the last thing we felt like doing at the end of a tough day.  After buying some food we headed north and what a lovely camping ground it was, aptly named Cloud 9 Lifestyle Park – and it did feel like it.  Friendly owners and very friendly guests.  We both had the best sleep ever – we were shattered!!  Bonus we were able to wash and dry our dirty clothes and organised a leisurely start the next morning.

Hokitika – Ross  (54 kms)

It was great to have a later start this morning.  I had arranged to go and visit one of my nieces who lives just south of Hokitika, Shelley and Reese (husband was at work) and their six children.  Sari was going to do her own thing for the morning and we’d meet up early in the afternoon.

I was very happy I made the effort to visit Shelley (Les (brother) & Carol’s youngest daughter) live on a 50 acre block which has recently been logged.  It was a mountain bike track to their home – and fortunately the kids had left a sign at the beginning of their track to let me know which way to go.  We had a wonderful time together.  Shelley and I reckoned it must have been at least 20 yrs since we last saw each other – quite a bit has changed during that time!!  Shelley & Reese have built their own home, have solar panels, self-composting toilet and Shelley home schools the children.  I was treated to homemade muffins and hot cross buns and played Lego with the kids.  The kids have plenty of space to explore and do stuff.  Shelley has amazing patience and I loved her outlook “one day at a time”.  A couple of hours well spent – thank you Shelley and kids.

I meet Sari down the road and we continued to cycle along the Wilderness trail to Ross by which time a nice southwest wind was blowing headon.  We found a lovely little camp site quite near the ocean – no traffic noise only the sound of the waves crashing.

Ross to Franz Joseph Glacier  (100 kms)

After a good night’s sleep we were on the road by 7.30 am only for Sari to have a flat tyre, thick gorse was to blame we think.  It didn’t take long for that to be changed.  We arrived in Harihari about 10.30 for a much needed coffee and hot scone.

Wharaoa was our lunch spot – always think of Tony & Carly’s daughter and son-in-law (was local policeman) when this place is mentioned.  The café owner didn’t offer a ‘pot of tea’ you had to buy another cup of tea at $3.50 per teabag – jolly good profit eh!!  She was not very accommodating but she was the only business in town!  No competition is not a good thing.

Franz Joseph was our destination and it rained all the way there.  This was our first day of riding in the rain.  We were very glad to arrive there – I was tired, very hungry and wet.A  gain accommodation was an issue – very lucky to get last two beds in a backpackers accommodation Rainforest Retreat  sharing with 4 other people, two males and two females, luckily no-one snored and we were all mature backpackers.  There were so many backpacker/tourists staying here – quite amazing and unbelievable.  The number of different nationalities and ages of the tourists – such an eye opener.  Franz Joseph was “on fire” with visitors so to speak.  By the time we’d showered, the rain had stopped, the clouds lifted and views of the surrounds peaks were magic.

Another long day in the saddle, the body seems to be adjusting and getting stronger.  Should sleep well tonight  🙂

 

Franz Joseph to Pine Grove Motels 35 kms south of Fox Glacier (64kms)

It’s appearing that accommodation is very difficult to get without prior bookings.  Apparently November and February are the busiest tourism months for the West Coast.  We couldn’t even get another night’s accommodation in Franz Joseph – as I said earlier the place was humming.  We did organise the next night’s accommodation at Pine Grove Motel (before we left Franz Joseph) because it was forecast to rain, along with thunder and lightening.

Today we had 3 passes to climb – I’m always a little anxious about the climbs – wondering how I’ll cope!  Did cope, they were steep, did some walking to relieve the hamstrings and lungs, at the same time trying to keep out of the way of the traffic.  On the other side of the climbs we stopped off at Fox Glacier for a much deserved coffee and muffin and onto Pine Grove Motels.  All this travelling along highway 6.

As we cycled saw the results of the severe storm they had down here couple of weeks back – major slips, where trees had fallen across main roads and random trees uprooted along the side of the road.

It was good to arrive reasonably early in the afternoon at our destination, time for a shower, read and rest.  Another early to bed night.

No cell phone coverage & very slow Internet

As the cell phone coverage is non existent in parts of the West Coast and Internet access very slow, I’ve decided to finish my blog here.  I want to say I’ve had my rest day here in Haast – oh it’s been sooo good.  It’s enabled me to post my blogs – and have a rest.  Tomorrow Monday we cycle over the Haast Pass and camp somewhere in the hills and bush.  I can’t even upload any more images, so you will have to wait until next time – when and where that will be anyone’s guess.  Take care.  Living the dream – even though at times tough!  Night night – GoldCard gal.  🙂

 

We are enjoying Reefton’s hospitality and supporting the local economy.  Arrived here Saturday afternoon (10 February) both in need of a rest day.  Fortunately rain was predicted and it arrived during the night with major downpours.  It was very comforting knowing we didn’t have to pack up wet tents and stuff.  Speaking to one of the locals this morning she said they’d not had any decent since last November – they were declared a drought zone – unheard of before.

I’m not sure how best to go about describing our journey and where we travel.  Please feel free to let me know your thoughts.  Speaking of which, thank you for the comments, it’s fabulous to get feedback.  As you all know, this blogging stint is completely new to me – I see it as a learning experience – nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Nelson – Norris Gully (54 kms)

We followed The Great Taste Trail out of Nelson to Norris Gully – just through Spooners Tunnel. This trail is mainly flat, with both paved and unpaved surfaces.  It was great being on cycle paths and away from the traffic.

Once again signage was not great so we ended up cycling down a long driveway to ask for help.  We got a little more than we bargained!  Besides giving us directions Terrence insisted we have a guided tour of their home based business Canine Retreat luxurious accommodation for small dogs.   Where happy and relaxing music is played throughout the day and a large dog height TV is available for watching movies when the mood takes.  Neither Sari nor I are great dog lovers but we did appreciate the care and attention their “guests” received.  As we cycled back down the driveway I said to Sari, “see, you just never know who you will meet, when you ask for directions!”

Our favourite part of the ride was cycling up to and through Spooners Tunnel.  Construction of Spooners Tunnel started in 1873 and it was used by trains running between Nelson and Kawatiri up until 1955 when the line was dismantled.   It is the longest tunnel open to cyclists in the Southern Hemisphere and an experience not to be missed.

By this time it was early evening, time to look for a camp site.  Sari has a knack for finding great camp sites – this one was in Spooners Range Scenic Reserve  –  beautiful but very noisy during the night with trucks travelling between Nelson and the south.

Norris Gully – Braeburn Track (85 kms)

Fortunately Sari and I are relatively early risers, so we are generally on the road by 7.30 – 8 am or thereabouts.  Today heading towards Tapawera.  I wonder what adventures we are going to experience today?  When following the Tour Aoteraroa cycle trails you spend majority of time (when possible) travelling along unpaved/paved back roads, with little or no traffic.  Today we cycled up the Tadmor Valley Road and over the saddle.  I’ve become very weary when the word “saddle” is used – generally means ‘steep windy hills’.  This saddle was a warm up compared to others we have ridden/walked.

When we hit Highway 6 it was time for lunch and Sari saw this little sidetrack off down beside a small river.  What an amazing setting with a small parking area, little wooden table and seats made out of old logs –  very well maintained.  It wasn’t long before we heard the sound of a big motor bike (Harley) pulling in.  The guy was turning his bike around as though to go out again when Sari said to him “please don’t go on account of us”, his reply was “I’m not, I’ve come to maintain this area and other tracks my wife and I have built over the years”.  Didn’t get his name but he chatted to us for sometime about his voluntary work creating and maintaining the little tracks in this area.  He was super pleased to see us enjoying it.  He said one day he found a note from DOC saying “What a great job he was doing, and keep it up”.  He and his wife work in Nelson and he loves getting out doors and doing this sort of voluntary work.

We visited Lake Rotoroa; what a stunning lake and the beginning to many popular tramps.  Sari had quick dip; we applied plenty of sandfly repellent and soon left to climb the Braeburn Track hoping to find a place to camp for the night.  After pushing our bikes majority of 2.5 kms up hill, on a very rough unpaved road – no camp site available.  But we did find a fabulous site down the other side beside a clear stream surrounded by beautiful beech trees and hidden from the road.  Our constant companions seem to be wasps – particularly in this part of the West Coast.  We made the bold decision tonight that we would ride into Murchison for breakfast – only 26 kms away.

Braeburn Track – Maruia Saddle (74 kms)

Oh it felt good to have a quiet night’s sleep!!  What a fabulous ride down into Murchison through stunning beech forests and farmland.  On the way we found a large piece of yellow ‘closed cell foam’ which had blown off someone’s vehicle.  Sari suggested it would make a great cushion for me when sitting on the ground having a rest or eating lunch etc.  A quick turn-around soon saw us hacking a rectangle piece for me.  What a magic piece of foam that has turned out to be.  A must have on any cycling trip or tramp.

The road leading to the Maruia Saddle was mainly unpaved and very quiet, but pretty hot weather wise.  Luckily the 7 km climb was in beech forest – a welcome relief from the sun.  Gee the beech forests are stunning and to think they wanted to mill beech trees for pulp??

We found a camp site just off the main road, wasn’t exactly quiet but good enough.  It’s 8.05 pm and I’m going to bed to read my book.  I’ve loved today, unpaved surfaces and hardly any traffic – in quite remote areas – that really feeds my soul.  Looking forward to couple of nights in Reefton hopefully in a camping cabin and having a much needed rest.  Tomorrow majority of day spent on main road.

Springs Junction – Reefton (75kms)

Rode mainly on highway 65 before turning off towards Reefton over the Rahu Saddle (696 m).  Long uphills, slow riding and plenty of sweat!  Oh the relief whenever you reach the top of a big climb – knowing the next section will be downhill and this time into Reefton.  Head wind for the first time this afternoon – good for the mind and character when one if feeling tired!!

Needing a little break we stopped off and look at the Jack Lovelock memorial.  Never heard of the place Crushlington before and certainly didn’t know Jack came from such a tiny district.  He won a gold medal in 1500 m at 1936 Olympics and was a mile record holder.  He died at the age of 39 in New York.  Howz that for a bit of additional information?? 🙂

We found a great little cabin in Reefton camping ground for two nights as it was forecast to rain.  After camping out, one appreciates the little things – like warm showers, having clean clothes and being able to boil a jug!

Loved Reefton, the main street was vibrant, beautiful hanging baskets, very friendly people, and a couple of great cafes.  Meet six other cyclists staying in the same camp ground – all foreigners doing amazing rides.  The French couple (probably early 60’s) had been on and off the road for the last three years covering 26,000 kms+ – amazing.

Looking forward to chilling out and relaxing!!  Oh life is pretty good!!  Take care out there – GoldCard gal. -)

 

 

Exploring the South Island on a push bike had been a dream of my for many years.  I imagined days of carefree living – no commitments other than finding food and the next camp site.  Each day getting stronger physically & mentally!  Would I be brave enough to take time off work and live my dream?

The planning to fulfil this dream started back in March, 2017 when my cycling buddy Sari (whom I meet when volunteering in Laos, back in 2005) came to visit me in Hamilton.  Sari and I had many cycling adventures in Laos; it was her who ignited my desire for more adventures.

When one uses the word “adventure” for doing stuff I found it changes your mind-set about what could happen, expect the unexpected or actually happens – it gives a wonderful sense of openness and freedom.  I recently found this description of adventure and it sums the word up beautifully:

Adventure is about… 

going out of your comfort zone to open yourself up to the experiences and beauty that life gives you, no matter what path you choose to go on.

The past 11 months have been spent dreaming, planning, training and working out kit and logistics – hence the journey starts a long time before the actual adventure takes place.  I’m currently sitting on the ferry Kaitaki (part of InterIslander group) crossing to Picton.  What a beautiful trip it is turning out to be.  Wellington on a clear, sunny, still morning is stunning.

The start

I drove down to Levin where my good old friends Cynthia & Geoff live and stayed with them and left Cynthia to look after my car.  Cynthia & I have been friends for 45+ yrs; we used to flat together.  It had been a while since we last caught up – plus they had just built a new home – so there was much to catch up on.  We went to see the movie “Three billboards outside ebbing missouri”.  Very intriguing movie and we had a meal with Cynthia’s brother Russell and his wife Anne.  What an opportune time, Anne was going to have a knee replacement operation in a couple of days times and what better person to promote knee replacements than myself (if I say so myself!!  :-).  Anne seemed genuinely pleased with my advice/recommendations.  My knee replacements changed my life and I’m determined to look after them the best way I can and cycling is proving to be one of the answers.

Waikanae – Ngaio – 90% cycle lanes

One of my goals had been to cycle into Wellington via cycle paths etc.  Prior to leaving Hamilton I had Googled and phoned many businesses to see if one could cycle all the way into Wellington on cycle paths – without much luck.  So when I heard that there was a new walk and cycle path from Waikanae to Paekakariki  (next to new expressway) decided to ride it and see what happens.

Wellington was at its best – nice southerly head wind blowing – just what cyclists love!  It was lucky this was the first day of my adventure: I was keen, fresh and eager to be on the road – otherwise it would have been a real drag!  Argh but very good for the mind and attitude – how to cope when things get a bit tough and the body starts to get tired.

Like so many things in life – once you start something its surprising what help crops up along the way.  I meet people who told me where to go and how to get to the next place without riding on any highways.  Got the shock of my life when I sat down for something to eat outside an old church hall in Paekakariki and a lady came up to me and said “hi Heather, great to see you!”  It took a couple of seconds to register, (we had been on a mountain bike weekend in Rotorua together many months ago).  Lynda was her name (keen mountain biker and lives in Paraparaumu), and she was packing up her stall at the morning market.  She reinforced the off main road route into Wellington.  While it sounded simple – it was actually quite tricky, no signage in majority of places; so ended up chatting to many people along the way asking for guidance.  People are generally only too keen to assist when asked.  Meet a couple of guys out training for the Tour Aotearoa ride starting in a couple of weeks.  Sari and I are riding the South Island section of this ride.

Finally made it to the home of Jules (Geoff’s niece) & Rob and their daughters Annalise and Claudia  who hosted me for the night – wonderful hosts and the girls were delightful – they both are unafraid to ask questions, of which there were many.  But what a way to learn.  The shower was refreshing, dinner was delicious, bed so comfortable and only a short downhill to the ferry.  What more could one ask for?

The Ferry Crossing

On a good day – this adventure is stunning – a must do for everyone.  Leaving Wellington, crossing Cook Strait and entering the Marlborough Sounds is quite breath-taking and very picturesque.

I loved watching all the vehicles getting driven onto the ferry; it was amazing the number of camper-vans and motorcyclists (180 plus I was told), without mentioning the trucks and cars.  To think of all that weight on the ferry and yet the ocean is so powerful that is can sway the ferry.  The reason for so many motorcyclists was because it is the Burt Munro 50th anniversary (world land speed record) this coming weekend in Invercargill.  There were many beautiful looking motorbikes.  Also crossing were a few cyclists like myself – all off on adventures.

Writing this blog encourages me to be mindful, be in the present, take more photographs  and talk to people more often than I would normally.  Had an informative conversation with one of the motorcyclists.  A group of 40 motorcyclists had shipped their bikes from Australia to Auckland and now travelling to Invercargill.  He old me he was a Kiwi but has been living in Sydney for 41 years this Waitangi Day.  He said he went for a three week holiday and ended up staying 41 years.  They are touring NZ for 3 weeks.

After leaving the ferry I cycled to Blenheim to spend two nights with my brother Ben and his wife Fran

.  They were looking after four of their grandchildren, while their parents (Marcus and Sam) were in Europe on business.  It has been some years since I last saw these great nephews and nieces – what great kids and what fun we had.  Six year old Quinn taught me how to make a loom band bracket using very small rubber bands and Violet made me another larger more complicated loom band bracket.  They are fun to make and seem to be a very popular activity.  Violet and Quinn also helped make pikelets which proved to be a very delicious and popular food option.  It was great catching up and chilling out – thank you Ben, Fran and kids – see you on my return.

On New Zealand’s ‘national day’ I cycled back from Blenheim and over to Ngakuta Bay, Marlborough Sounds were my cycling buddy Sari lives with her husband Norm.  It was decided we would begin our adventure the next day with Norm dropping us off in Nelson and we start cycling from there.   So that is it until the next update, take care – GoldCard Gal 🙂