Overseas

Creating memories and having adventures are an important part of my life.  Putting this blog together has been a wonderful trip down memory lane.  I’m not sure why it has taken me so long to post this blog?

I’ve imagined riding the Karakoram Highway for many years, from Gilgit in North Pakistan through to Kashgar in West China.  The idea of riding on paved and unpaved roads, closely surrounded by snow-capped mountains, blue clear skies and very little traffic was always very appealing and sparked my imagination for a long time.  I finally decided that dreaming and imagining was not enough, this adventure needed to be fulfilled.  The hills were never going to get smaller, and I was never going to get younger or stronger than I currently was – so it was time!

After much googling I came across a British cycling tour company called Redspoke Tours.  They offered 20 days of adventures, using local guides in each of the countries we were to visit.  This proved to be very beneficial in providing the best options for accommodation, local services and customs.  It also provided an opportunity for us to get to know the local guides in a more personal way.  🙂

The route

Below was the route.  We did have a couple of long days travelling by bus; a great opportunity to rest the body!  Travelling in this part of the world is never dull, the sights are always fascinating and so different to what I’ve ever experience here in NZ or other parts of Asia.  While some of the cycling sections look short on distance, they certainly were not easy in terrain.

Some of my most memorable scenes

Loved some of the signage

Visiting Shimshal Village

Getting to and visiting Shimshal village was one of my highlights.  At 3,100m, Shimshal is the highest settlement in Pakistan’s northern Hunza region and the last village before the Chinese border.  It is reachable via only one rocky, hairpin turn-laden road cut into the Distegill Sar and Karun Kuh mountains. The road, known as the Shimshal Valley Road, is considered one of the world’s most dangerous.  Much of it runs along the gorge of the Shimshal River, bordered by nothing but a steep drop off without guardrails. Completed in 2003 after 18 years of construction, navigable only by four-wheel drive or bicycle.  Before the road was completed it used to take the villagers four days to walk to the main highway (Karakoram Highway).

In this village porters for trekking to Everest and K2 are trained. Couple of the men we meet had summited K2, which is technically much more difficult than Everest. I was invited into the village headman’s house to meet his wife (who couldn’t speak English). Their three children are at university in Lochore and the wife misses them very much. It was interesting to see in their home and have a chat and cup of tea. Why was I invited in, perhaps it was my age and I was walking by myself, whatever the reason I felt very privileged. Certainly had something to brag about to the rest of my group!!

These are my most memorable photos of the Shimshal visit. Just like to add I was regularly out of my comfort zone riding this road and kept saying to myself “if you think you can or can’t, either way you are right”. I’ve come to realise it’s all in the head, get that right and you’re just about there. 🙂

China

Arriving in China was an experience!  At the border crossing they made us all unpack all our luggage, checked our phones, all the while walking around with rifles at the ready – letting us know who had the power and who was in control!!

Kashgar Market

We visited the famous out-door Kashgar animal market, I loved it.  The way they handled their animals and the variety of animals for sale was so fascinating.

Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyzstan was different again from Pakistan and West China.  The people were very kind and generous.  The guest houses where we stayed were run by women as opposed to the guest houses in Pakistan were run by men, the difference was well – let you guess for yourself.  Not to mention the food, it was yummy, each meal a feast and lots of variety.  The home made jams and bread were irresistible and so delicious – thank goodness we didn’t have to worry about our weight.  The landscape was open, and we were always surrounded by mountains in the distance.

In Pakistan we were always surrounded by up-close rugged mountains.  In China the mountains were a little further out, and in Kyrgyzstan the mountains were further out again.

Final word

Security was not an issue for our group – whether that was because we had local guides I will never know. Since 9/11, tourists to North Pakistan have declined significantly, and many of the small businesses are really struggling. We were requested many times to tell our family and friends about how safe it was and if you visit you will be made very welcome. The people really want the tourists back and that is understandable.

The trip was everything I had hoped for plus much more.  Whenever I talk about it or recall an experience I had, I have nothing but gratified memories. It was well organised and local guides were fantastic.  Would recommend RedSpokes Tours for an adventure.

Till next time, Goldcard Gal! 🙂